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Originally Posted By ppknut:
I'd love to see the 'no steel pins' brass. Any photos? Here's a picture. I dumped them together already but it's easy to tell which ones were with the pins and which ones weren't. Like I said before, the outsides looked pretty much the same. 
I might not bother with the pins the next time I get a large quantity to clean up. |
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Originally Posted By AJE:
2-3hrs... I think only 2 on the first load. However, the primers are still in, as I don't take the extra time necessary to decap everything before tumbling. I make sure they get some heat after towel drying to dry out the primer pockets. I may decap when I start loading rifle rounds but I don't believe it's worth the time for me to do it for the calibers I load now. Ah yes the de-prime or not to de-prime question. (i think we are still on topic.) Reasons to deprime before wet cleaning; 1. If cleaned with the primer in place, the primer may 'stick' in he primer pocket and the primer head break off, leaving the body of the primer intact. I had this happen twice in about 3 thousand rounds. 2. Primer retains water and can be hard to dry successfully. I Purchased 10K of 9 that had been cleaned with the primer in place, and then bagged after externally drying. They all had water spots. So I deprimed and re-washed. 3. Clean primer pockets just look good 
Ask 10 reloaders how to clean brass, and you'll get 11 different answers. 
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Originally Posted By AJE:
I might not bother with the pins the next time I get a large quantity to clean up. Without the pins is the same result as corncob or walnut with NuFinish or other shiny additives. So with out pins it comes down to wet or dry. I would still go wet. |
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Originally Posted By Jimk60:
Without the pins is the same result as corncob or walnut with NuFinish or other shiny additives. So with out pins it comes down to wet or dry. I would still go wet. Originally Posted By Jimk60:
Originally Posted By AJE:
I might not bother with the pins the next time I get a large quantity to clean up. Without the pins is the same result as corncob or walnut with NuFinish or other shiny additives. So with out pins it comes down to wet or dry. I would still go wet. I'm pretty sure the pins are necessary to clean out the insides and the primer pockets. It would have been good if the above photo showed a few of the primer pockets, for the comparison. |
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Originally Posted By lazyengineer:
I'm pretty sure the pins are necessary to clean out the insides and the primer pockets. It would have been good if the above photo showed a few of the primer pockets, for the comparison. Originally Posted By lazyengineer:
Originally Posted By Jimk60:
Originally Posted By AJE:
I might not bother with the pins the next time I get a large quantity to clean up. Without the pins is the same result as corncob or walnut with NuFinish or other shiny additives. So with out pins it comes down to wet or dry. I would still go wet. I'm pretty sure the pins are necessary to clean out the insides and the primer pockets. It would have been good if the above photo showed a few of the primer pockets, for the comparison. The primers are still in so they would likely look exactly the same. |
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Originally Posted By Jimk60:
Ah yes the de-prime or not to de-prime question. (i think we are still on topic.) Reasons to deprime before wet cleaning; 1. If cleaned with the primer in place, the primer may 'stick' in he primer pocket and the primer head break off, leaving the body of the primer intact. I had this happen twice in about 3 thousand rounds. 2. Primer retains water and can be hard to dry successfully. I Purchased 10K of 9 that had been cleaned with the primer in place, and then bagged after externally drying. They all had water spots. So I deprimed and re-washed. 3. Clean primer pockets just look good
Ask 10 reloaders how to clean brass, and you'll get 11 different answers.
Originally Posted By Jimk60:
Originally Posted By AJE:
2-3hrs... I think only 2 on the first load. However, the primers are still in, as I don't take the extra time necessary to decap everything before tumbling. I make sure they get some heat after towel drying to dry out the primer pockets. I may decap when I start loading rifle rounds but I don't believe it's worth the time for me to do it for the calibers I load now. Ah yes the de-prime or not to de-prime question. (i think we are still on topic.) Reasons to deprime before wet cleaning; 1. If cleaned with the primer in place, the primer may 'stick' in he primer pocket and the primer head break off, leaving the body of the primer intact. I had this happen twice in about 3 thousand rounds. 2. Primer retains water and can be hard to dry successfully. I Purchased 10K of 9 that had been cleaned with the primer in place, and then bagged after externally drying. They all had water spots. So I deprimed and re-washed. 3. Clean primer pockets just look good
Ask 10 reloaders how to clean brass, and you'll get 11 different answers.
I've still yet to have a primer break leaving the sidewalls in the pocket since I started doing this. I've loaded around 15k in the last year. I also put them in the oven on low heat, and spot check a few (decap and make sure the pocket is dry) in each batch if there are any doubts. |
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| Just got it in, running a batch of 30/06 HXP brass and the sample pack of cleaner they sent with it. Is the Lemishine at walmart? So far Ive got dawn and Lemishine on my shopping list |
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Originally Posted By dnmccoy: Just got it in, running a batch of 30/06 HXP brass and the sample pack of cleaner they sent with it. Is the Lemishine at walmart? So far Ive got dawn and Lemishine on my shopping list Yes in the dish washing soap section. |
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Im hooked! Little more work than dry tumbling but not having the dust and crap everywhere is worth it.
Whats the ratio of lemnishine and dawn? I found the new Lemnishine at wally world last night 
30/06 Bling 
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Originally Posted By dnmccoy: Im hooked! Little more work than dry tumbling but not having the dust and crap everywhere is worth it. Whats the ratio of lemnishine and dawn? I found the new Lemnishine at wally world last night 30/06 Bling http://s5.postimg.org/y0rko9evb/20150626_081118.jpg I have a Thumbler that uses 1 gallon water per batch. I use a 45 ACP case of Lemishine and a 2 second squirt of Dawn. Depending on your local water, you may have to increase or decrease the amount of Lemishine for the best results. Cases dirty=more Cases pink=less Cases bling, bling=just right 
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Originally Posted By dnmccoy: PSA from me: Frankfort Arsenal seperator sucks with pins. I had it from dry tumbling, but without a lid it throws the pins everywhere! This is my simple pin removal process without using a sink or magnet. I call it the 2 bucket method. I use my separator without the lid, and I only use the bottom half of the separator. I pour the contents of tumbler into a dry bucket through the bottom half of the separator. Rock back and forth slowly the separator so most of the pins fall through. (Don't worry about the ones in the cases just yet.) Into another bucket dump the cases and pins that remain in the separator. So you now have 2 buckets. 1 with dirty water/pins 1 with soapy cases/pins I go outside to the hose, but a sink can be used here, but I will write this for my hose style. Dump water out of water/pins bucket on ground holding bucket so water flows out slowly. You can see when the pins will start to come out, stop before they do. It's easy to see as all of the suds will be gone before pins start to flow out.There won't be much water left in bucket at this point. Now fill bucket 1/4 full of clean water and dump out water. Repeat twice and you will have clean pins. Fill bucket with cases/pins 1/4 full of clean water and dump out water. Repeat twice and you will have clean cases and the pins will be separate from the cases. Dump bucket with clean pins back into tumbler. Place the bottom half of the separator on this just dumped out bucket. Pour bucket with clean cases/pins into the bottom half of the separator. Rock separator so that the rest of the pins fall through. Place wet cases on towel and dry off. Remove separator and dump the remaining pins into tumbler. Done. Now place brass on the towel to dry the outside, then put brass in a pan to dry. No pins that go down a drain or magnet to pull them off of with my method. |
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Originally Posted By thormx538:
Not sure how I missed this thread earlier. I was an early adopter, buying mine in June of last year. I've run close to 10,000 cases through it to this point, and I love it. I tend to work in 1 gallon ziploc increments of 223 brass -- that's about the capacity of the tumbler, and about what my attention span allows me to do other tasks on in one sitting (resizing, swaging, etc.). I do not wet tumble pistol brass anymore, because I found it gets it TOO clean -- ruined a sizing die this way -- the lack of lubricant on the cases galled up the carbide ring and would scratch the brass. For rifle brass, I dry tumble, process (resize/swage/trim/chamfer/deburr), then wet tumble. I use the media it came with, a ziploc full of brass, and enough hot water to cover the brass. Quick squirt of soap, ~1tsp Lemishine, and let it run for 2hr. I found 2hr to be the sweet spot -- 3hr didn't buy me anything, and 1hr had noticeably dirtier primer pockets. I haven't F.A.R.T.'ed yet. 
But, I always made it a point to get a little WD-40 on a Q-tip and swirtl it around the inside of the sizing/decapping die, the bullet seating die, and the Lee FCD at the start of a reloading session. This basically cleans out whatever crud might be stuck in the dies. I also take the powder through die apart, and take the inner "funnel" and polish with rouge and a buffing wheel. Some guys over at the Brian Enos forums swear by squirting their pistol brass, lightly, with case lube before dumping it into their casefeeder's hopper. A guy I used to know would NOT do the spray on case lube thing for his pistol brass, but rather would sprinkle teflon powder into the casefeeder's hopper. I would not recommend that though if you have any birds as pets in the house. The local Gander Mountain has F.A.R.T.'s on sale for $200. I'll have to check out Anazon. I have 2 5 gallon buckets of 9mm, 2 5 gallon buckets of .40, and 1 5 gallon bucket of .45 that I had previously tumbled in walnut shells. Then there is a bucket or two of mixed brass that I haven't even sorted ir tumbled yet. |
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On sale right now at Midsouth Shooters Supply for $169.99!! Great deal!
Frankford Arsenal Rotary Tumbler |
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Originally Posted By va50bmg: On sale right now at Midsouth Shooters Supply for $169.99!! Great deal! Frankford Arsenal Rotary Tumbler In the future post this in the "help to find" tacked thread at the top of the page. I would like to keep all of this in one tacked thread. |
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So in continuation of this thread (now archived) http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/446694_.html
I find I'm getting more shavers now, when I seat bullets in pin tumbled brass. Maybe it's due to other factors, who knows. But in any event, my last batch of match ammo had about a 20% shaver rate. 
where the circled area's don't come out great in the photo's, and these are after being cleaned up - but that's where the copper of the bullet has been shaved up. Coincidentally, it was one of my recent switch to wet tumbling. I can't really prove that it's the tumbler - who knows, we all see the correlations we are looking for, and heck, maybe my Giraud drifted out of spec. But it is awful coincidental, and there are some claims that the lack of tumbler dust causes the next to be too clean, and to gall (maybe true, maybe not). So as an experiment, I tried Turtle Wax in the mix, to in theory put some minor lubrication back in the necks for bullet seating. So I got clever, and decided to add turtle wax to my wet tumbler on the next batch, to provide sometime the replace the now missing dust lubrication I was getting from dry tumbling. Bad idea. Now my brass is all black and slimy and just guhh. 
So.... now I'm retumbling that brass, in a bath of handsoap with some scrap cloth in the tumbler, trying scrape that crap off. The quest continues! |
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I'm seriously considering getting the FA tumbler just to clean the stainless baffles from my .22 suppressor.
And then give some brass a try!
Looks like Amazon and Midsouth are both the same price right now at 165.00 Are the FA units seeming to be trouble free and durable? I know some of the FA gear is less than stellar as far as quality goes. |
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Lazy.....
Based on my Giraud results, I'm getting MUCH cleaner and more even trimming (de-burring and chamfering) than your brass seems to show. You may be correct on your Giraud blade being a little out of alignment. I've had the set screw work loose before, and gotten similar uneven cuts. |
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Originally Posted By diversmith:
I'm seriously considering getting the FA tumbler just to clean the stainless baffles from my .22 suppressor. And then give some brass a try!
Looks like Amazon and Midsouth are both the same price right now at 165.00 Are the FA units seeming to be trouble free and durable? I know some of the FA gear is less than stellar as far as quality goes. I just got the FA to clean brass from shooting suppressed. My brass get's much dirtier when shooting with a silencer...then again, so do the guns. |
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Originally Posted By va50bmg: Love mine! Here's some 2x fired 308 brass I just ran through it last night...3 hours... 308 Brass Two things 1. Top of the page in FAQ's, has instructions for posting pics and hot links. 2. Most important, set your Photobucket account to private. As once we follow your link, we can see everything there. (Bad for your security.) |
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Originally Posted By va50bmg:
Love mine! Here's some 2x fired 308 brass I just ran through it last night...3 hour runtime... Edited to show picture (hopefully...it previewed ok...  )
http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/zz31/dblazek2010/308%20brass.jpg Pic looks awesome. My FA wet tumbler will be at my house tomorrow, im stoked to try it out. I may post pics of my work. |
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Originally Posted By va50bmg: Love mine! Here's some 2x fired 308 brass I just ran through it last night...3 hour runtime... Edited to show picture (hopefully...it previewed ok... )http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/zz31/dblazek2010/308%20brass.jpg Much better, I see your pic.  Good job on your security.  |
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Used mine for first time today. Couldn't be happier with my purchase.
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Thanks for costing me more money, boys! I'll order one up from Amazon later this week and give it a go. I've got 2 5 gallon buckets of range brass that's about the nastiest you've ever encountered. It sat outside a PD range for a few years before I got it, and I got it about 3 years ago. It might as well have been sitting in a septic tank. After separating most of it, dry tumbling took off the crud, but didn't put a brassy shine on 90% of it. Most of it is a shiny brown. Can't wait to give it a go and see what a wet tumbler will do on these filthy cases. I was looking for a cheaper wet tumbling option for a while, and this seems to fill the bill perfectly. |
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Originally Posted By PhatForrest:
Thanks for costing me more money, boys! I'll order one up from Amazon later this week and give it a go. I've got 2 5 gallon buckets of range brass that's about the nastiest you've ever encountered. It sat outside a PD range for a few years before I got it, and I got it about 3 years ago. It might as well have been sitting in a septic tank. After separating most of it, dry tumbling took off the crud, but didn't put a brassy shine on 90% of it. Most of it is a shiny brown. Can't wait to give it a go and see what a wet tumbler will do on these filthy cases. I was looking for a cheaper wet tumbling option for a while, and this seems to fill the bill perfectly. Wet tumbling is surely going to do the trick. I would still recommend you thoroughly inspect any brass that has been exposed to the elements for any length of time. I sure don't want you to load up a piece of deteriorated brass just because it looks good! Look over the finished product after you clean it up and make sure it is still safe...and don't forget to post pics!!! Glad to see this thread and wet tumbling is still alive! The summer heat keeps me off the range and out of the load room this time of year so I have been away...lots of good work going on here though! |
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Originally Posted By Captain_Howdy: Wet tumbling is surely going to do the trick. I would still recommend you thoroughly inspect any brass that has been exposed to the elements for any length of time. I sure don't want you to load up a piece of deteriorated brass just because it looks good! Look over the finished product after you clean it up and make sure it is still safe...and don't forget to post pics!!! Glad to see this thread and wet tumbling is still alive! The summer heat keeps me off the range and out of the load room this time of year so I have been away...lots of good work going on here though! Originally Posted By Captain_Howdy: Originally Posted By PhatForrest: Thanks for costing me more money, boys! I'll order one up from Amazon later this week and give it a go. I've got 2 5 gallon buckets of range brass that's about the nastiest you've ever encountered. It sat outside a PD range for a few years before I got it, and I got it about 3 years ago. It might as well have been sitting in a septic tank. After separating most of it, dry tumbling took off the crud, but didn't put a brassy shine on 90% of it. Most of it is a shiny brown. Can't wait to give it a go and see what a wet tumbler will do on these filthy cases. I was looking for a cheaper wet tumbling option for a while, and this seems to fill the bill perfectly. Wet tumbling is surely going to do the trick. I would still recommend you thoroughly inspect any brass that has been exposed to the elements for any length of time. I sure don't want you to load up a piece of deteriorated brass just because it looks good! Look over the finished product after you clean it up and make sure it is still safe...and don't forget to post pics!!! Glad to see this thread and wet tumbling is still alive! The summer heat keeps me off the range and out of the load room this time of year so I have been away...lots of good work going on here though! Found them on sale for $150 at cabelas today, it's tumbling its first load as we speak. |
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Holy Moses this thing works awesome! That cruddy, brown brass? Not a problem. After an hour or so, 90% of it came out just shy of awesome!! I literally could not believe my eyes when I finished the batch. I think I might do it again just to be vain and put a super shiny finish on it. I did a load of much cleaner .45acp and it came out looking factory new. This tumbler was easily one of the best reloading purchases I've made since I started 13 years ago. If you're on the fence about getting one, do yourself a favor and get it. |
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Originally Posted By SuperMoose: I bought into the hype. https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/12295244_10101736941621942_4618020324209969981_n.jpg?oh=53789684c57313038abcbd183603fd87&oe=56F5B97D https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/12313756_10101736938593012_6550198012250920303_n.jpg?oh=33772e32a229c6f1b77ac0002d80b740&oe=56E838FB First batch fresh out. Bling Bling! Welcome to the bling club. |
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Originally Posted By mPisi:
Bump since I'm running my first load now. I want to believe. You will not be disappointed. |
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I've been using mine for a couple of months and have done over 5k cases. I have found that best results are obtained using an equal weight of brass to the stainless steel pins. 5 lbs of pins with 5 lbs of brass. I decap before tumbling,Pic
200 cases of 308, 300 cases of 300 blackout and 150 cases of 30-06 are each about 5lbs, I have tried using the FA solution as well as dawn & lemishine. My best results have been using 4 capfuls of the FA solution with enough hot water to cover the brass about 1 inch and run for 3 hours. Rinse well with COLD water when done. Brass comes out a very bright yellow and does not tarnish. Very happy! |
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Originally Posted By mPisi:
Bump since I'm running my first load now. I want to believe. Pretty happy
I need to work on my procedure (and get a reloading area organized in general), but I can clearly see the potential. Got some really nice shiny brass after starting with some really grungy .303 and the contents of the "needs another cleaning" jar. So I had a bunch of dry tumbler grit in there, and all the pistol brass nestled in the 9mm->40->45 ménage-a-trois groups. I will ponder on the separation stages a little for my situation. |
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Originally Posted By mPisi:
Pretty happy
I need to work on my procedure (and get a reloading area organized in general), but I can clearly see the potential. Got some really nice shiny brass after starting with some really grungy .303 and the contents of the "needs another cleaning" jar. So I had a bunch of dry tumbler grit in there, and all the pistol brass nestled in the 9mm->40->45 ménage-a-trois groups. I will ponder on the separation stages a little for my situation. Originally Posted By mPisi:
Originally Posted By mPisi:
Bump since I'm running my first load now. I want to believe. Pretty happy
I need to work on my procedure (and get a reloading area organized in general), but I can clearly see the potential. Got some really nice shiny brass after starting with some really grungy .303 and the contents of the "needs another cleaning" jar. So I had a bunch of dry tumbler grit in there, and all the pistol brass nestled in the 9mm->40->45 ménage-a-trois groups. I will ponder on the separation stages a little for my situation. Yea...I will never run mixed brass in any type of cleaning scenario I use...I always separate it just prevents the obvious headaches. You'll figure it out. I still don't have my reloading situation worked out. Every time I change one thing I find some other change I need to make. |
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Originally Posted By mPisi:
Pretty happy
I need to work on my procedure (and get a reloading area organized in general), but I can clearly see the potential. Got some really nice shiny brass after starting with some really grungy .303 and the contents of the "needs another cleaning" jar. So I had a bunch of dry tumbler grit in there, and all the pistol brass nestled in the 9mm->40->45 ménage-a-trois groups. I will ponder on the separation stages a little for my situation. Originally Posted By mPisi:
Originally Posted By mPisi:
Bump since I'm running my first load now. I want to believe. Pretty happy
I need to work on my procedure (and get a reloading area organized in general), but I can clearly see the potential. Got some really nice shiny brass after starting with some really grungy .303 and the contents of the "needs another cleaning" jar. So I had a bunch of dry tumbler grit in there, and all the pistol brass nestled in the 9mm->40->45 ménage-a-trois groups. I will ponder on the separation stages a little for my situation. Buy these... seems expensive for what it is but as soon as you use them, you'll realize they are worth it. http://www.amazon.com/Shell-Sorter-380ACP-3pc-set/dp/B00BFN5TTI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451535725&sr=8-1&keywords=shell+sorter |
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Ran a load of .45ACP/44Mag and another load of .38 Special/.38 Super/.380ACP/9mm through...
I'm more convinced now the pins aren't worth the trouble if you don't care about the primer pockets. This was all about efficiency of time since I have a few buckets left to clean. I didn't use any of the media separator products I had... only the strainer that comes with the tumbler (that fits inside the drum) and a few old towels. -Nothing decapped -Some of these were pretty muddy so I ran just the cases and some water for about 15 minutes, strained out the water, then added new water and the other products. -Water/Lemshine/Car Wash&Wax, again, NO pins -Ran for 2hrs -Rinsed a few times using the strainer endcap. -Dump on one towel, roll around on another towel, let dry on a third towel. 
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Originally Posted By Superluckycat:
Question guys: If you only reload straight walled pistol and don't decap prior to tumbling are wet tumblers worth it? Yes, that's all I do for the most part. See my post right before yours. |
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When I used a dry tumbler I had a problem seating my primers deep enough on my rifle brass. I started using the priming setup on my Forster press to get the leverage. A couple of days ago I took a batch of .30-06 I had wet cleaned and reprimed on my RCBS
bench primer. No problem seating primers to the proper depth. A real plus for clean primer pockets. |
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Originally Posted By faldoc: That's what I used to do. I figured a clean pocket is good so I decap first with a Lee universal now. Although I never had a primer top pop off due to corrosion. I always dry asap. But a clean primer pocket is more bling... Wait till you come back to some brass you cleaned a couple of years ago and they have been sitting, when the tops start popping off and you have to throw cases out that otherwise had lots of reloads left, you will change your mind about not decapping. If you reload them fairly quickly it won't be much of a problem, but if they sit for a while that can change dramatically. I tried a run 100 cases and had to throw out about half of them, really makes you sick when you think about how many more will be doing the same thing. |
Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscript catapultas habebunt
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Site Staff http://mp-pistol.com/boards/
NRA Life
Amateur Radio WB5ONL
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Originally Posted By Wingman26:
Wait till you come back to some brass you cleaned a couple of years ago and they have been sitting, when the tops start popping off and you have to throw cases out that otherwise had lots of reloads left, you will change your mind about not decapping. If you reload them fairly quickly it won't be much of a problem, but if they sit for a while that can change dramatically. I tried a run 100 cases and had to throw out about half of them, really makes you sick when you think about how many more will be doing the same thing. Originally Posted By Wingman26:
Originally Posted By faldoc:
That's what I used to do. I figured a clean pocket is good so I decap first with a Lee universal now. Although I never had a primer top pop off due to corrosion. I always dry asap. But a clean primer pocket is more bling... Wait till you come back to some brass you cleaned a couple of years ago and they have been sitting, when the tops start popping off and you have to throw cases out that otherwise had lots of reloads left, you will change your mind about not decapping. If you reload them fairly quickly it won't be much of a problem, but if they sit for a while that can change dramatically. I tried a run 100 cases and had to throw out about half of them, really makes you sick when you think about how many more will be doing the same thing. How did you dry them? |
GLOCK Armorer, USPSA addict
“Hokey religions and ancient weapons are no match for a Glock 20 at your side, kid.”
“Hokey religions and ancient weapons are no match for a Glock 20 at your side, kid.”
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I'm glad someone started this thread. I bought a franklin arsenal tumbler about two weeks ago when it was on sale. I have yet to use it. I just ordered a AMK PXL Extra Large PowerMag Hand Release Magnet from Amazon. It costs twice as much as the franklin arsenal one, but the reviews were better.
My plan is to decap the brass, run it in the tumbler with lemon shine and dawn (maybe armor all wash like someone here suggested), separate with a Dillon separator, rinse off the brass (now that I don't have to worry about the pins), and dry. I will use the magnet to pick up the pins out of the water. I read somewhere that people cover the magnet with plastic wrap to keep it dry. I'm really hoping that this is cheaper than buying media for the dry tumblers. I was going through quite a bit before. It seems that the initial cost of the equipment for wet tumbling is higher, but the water and soap will make up the cost difference in the long run. I also got tired of all the dust. The next time you guys put in a "long squirt of Dawn" please measure the amount in a measuring cup. I would like to compare what people are doing. |
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