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Posted: 7/24/2024 10:12:58 PM EDT
[Last Edit: WillieTangoFox]
I am looking at becoming an adult, and buying full grain leather boots for winter…….. and taking care of them……. Instead of getting more Goretex I will hate and replace in one year after they fall to bits.
1) Full grain leather, winter, waterproof boots. 2) Good for long movements, hiking 3) available from a large box store. Scheels, Bass Pro, Cabelas, Dicks, REI (no homo), etc Tell me what to get. Also what fine mink oils I will needs to maintain them. |
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[#1]
Kennetrek, lowa, crispi. For hiking and hunting
Danners, Hoffmans, whites for gortex lined winter work Whites, nicks, jk for summertime unlined leather work/fire boots. |
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[#2]
Lowa Tibets. They have an all-leather version. Buddy of mine was one of the SERE instructors at the Maine school, he turned me onto them, said that they were the most popular boot there and one of the only boots to last a full year at the school among instructors before self-destructing.
Also, check out Jim Greene boots out of South Africa. They have a US based web store, the boots are good, they are VERY cheap for what you get, especially if you get them on sale. |
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[Last Edit: marnsdorff]
[#3]
Oh. And sno-seal. Not mink oil.
Let it soak in, hard and heavy, until it won't soak any more in. Touch it up once a year. Get extra, it's shelf stable and worth stocking up on. It also works great on leather work gloves btw. Turns them into really good winter glove shells. Also works great to coat the leather USGI arctic mittens. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CQJDQ90?tag=arfcom00-20 |
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[Last Edit: lew]
[#4]
I've had a season with my Kenetrek Mountain Guides. After replacing the insole, I'd happily get them again. If I'm active, they're comfortable down to -20. I have a closet full of leather boots, so caring for these was nothing special or new. I'm looking at their Hardscrabble boots when my current boots crap out.
Mink oil sucks. Get a good boot grease- Pecard's, Sno Seal, Obenauf's. Varusteleka sells a boot grease that has more beeswax, and it's cheap and smells great. I've been using a lot of that lately. Kenetrek wants you to use their boot treatment, but I'm not the biggest fan of it. When it comes to boot grease, don't just slather one coat on and think it's good. You want the entire depth of leather saturated. If you just put a layer on the top and the inside is dry, the grease will migrate inward, leaving the top layer susceptible to soaking in water. |
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"What is socialism? The most difficult and tortuous way to progress from capitalism to capitalism." -Stated at an intel conference, East Berlin, Oct. 1988
"Every election is a sort of advance auction sale of stolen goods." -H.L. Mencken |
[#5]
Originally Posted By lew: I have a closet full of leather boots, so caring for these was nothing special or new. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By lew: I have a closet full of leather boots, so caring for these was nothing special or new. Once you go full leather, you won't go back. You just have to realize it's limitations and how to deal with it. Originally Posted By lew:Mink oil sucks. Get a good boot grease- Pecard's, Sno Seal, Obenauf's. Varusteleka sells a boot grease that has more beeswax, and it's cheap. I've been using a lot of that lately. Kenetrek wants you to use their boot treatment, but I'm not the biggest fan of it. All those will work. Mink oil is oldschool. As in, actually outdated old tech. The newer stuff improved on the mink oil. |
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[#6]
Originally Posted By marnsdorff: Once you go full leather, you won't go back. You just have to realize it's limitations and how to deal with it. All those will work. Mink oil is oldschool. As in, actually outdated old tech. The newer stuff improved on the mink oil. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By marnsdorff: Originally Posted By lew: I have a closet full of leather boots, so caring for these was nothing special or new. Once you go full leather, you won't go back. You just have to realize it's limitations and how to deal with it. Originally Posted By lew:Mink oil sucks. Get a good boot grease- Pecard's, Sno Seal, Obenauf's. Varusteleka sells a boot grease that has more beeswax, and it's cheap. I've been using a lot of that lately. Kenetrek wants you to use their boot treatment, but I'm not the biggest fan of it. All those will work. Mink oil is oldschool. As in, actually outdated old tech. The newer stuff improved on the mink oil. Two world wars! Lol ![]() |
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[#7]
Originally Posted By marnsdorff: Once you go full leather, you won't go back. You just have to realize it's limitations and how to deal with it. .... All those will work. Mink oil is oldschool. As in, actually outdated old tech. The newer stuff improved on the mink oil. View Quote They all have their place. I like my leather boots, but there's no way I'm wearing them when it's 90*+. As long as one stays away from that neatsfoot shit, they'll at least be alright. Mink oil evaporates quickly. |
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"What is socialism? The most difficult and tortuous way to progress from capitalism to capitalism." -Stated at an intel conference, East Berlin, Oct. 1988
"Every election is a sort of advance auction sale of stolen goods." -H.L. Mencken |
[#8]
For leather, I love my 30 year old issued Matterhorn winter boots. old school black that I take care of (thus why they are still kicking after so long). They are a half size too big for summer feet so plenty of toe room for cold weather. Good and tall to keep the snow out. Heavy but last. To put the "heavy" in perspective, keep in mind that 1lb on your feet is 5-10lbs on your back - If I am not in shape for elk season, and plan to head high up into snowy areas, the boots alone kill me, never mind my rifle and gear. Which is why I hardly wear them. I'm old and soft now. But they are great boots.
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[#9]
Originally Posted By lew: They all have their place. I like my leather boots, but there's no way I'm wearing them when it's 90*+. View Quote Oh DEFINITELY agree. That's where the lightweight, mid-height ventilated hot weather boots (or jungle boots) come into play. The only other variation I like is that weird slushy snow / wet cold weather shoulder weather where it's between about 28F and 40F and raining or slushy snow. Then I do like a pair of tall goretex boots. Just because everything else soaks through in that stuff. |
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[#10]
Originally Posted By marnsdorff: Oh DEFINITELY agree. That's where the lightweight, mid-height ventilated hot weather boots (or jungle boots) come into play. The only other variation I like is that weird slushy snow / wet cold weather shoulder weather where it's between about 28F and 40F and raining or slushy snow. Then I do like a pair of tall goretex boots. Just because everything else soaks through in that stuff. View Quote Mine are Gore Tex lined, which is perfect for the crap you mention, and it's no hindrance when the temps drop even further. My feet stay nice and dry. Anything warmer than say 50*, and I shy away from any linings. |
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"What is socialism? The most difficult and tortuous way to progress from capitalism to capitalism." -Stated at an intel conference, East Berlin, Oct. 1988
"Every election is a sort of advance auction sale of stolen goods." -H.L. Mencken |
[Last Edit: rb889]
[#11]
Originally Posted By bondryan: Kennetrek, lowa, crispi. For hiking and hunting Danners, Hoffmans, whites for gortex lined winter work Whites, nicks, jk for summertime unlined leather work/fire boots. View Quote Franks fall in with Nicks and JK, but the leather’s more supple, mine were broken in within an hour. Drews are a little cheaper than the above, same quality, but they’re like iron, a bitch to break in. Highly recommend PNW over anything out of a big box store, only exception is for ultralight boots. Bates Cobras are my favorite for that, but they only last 6 months, and they’re $120. ETA: For winter use, anyone have a lead on good insulated gaiters? Wool socks only get you so far, but insulated boots have always fucking sucked for me. |
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[#12]
Traveled to the city for work. Stopped at REI ( no homo)
I found a set of Asolo 520 GV’s on the used rack for $70 that dont even look like they were walked in outside. Had to join their $30 lesbian co-op outdoor club…… to buy from the used gear……life membership……. Sigh. But they give you a $30 off coupon. Lol. Maybe just trying to drive up memberships to please shareholders. ![]() |
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[#13]
Don’t use snow seal. Buy a legitimate boot grease from whites, danners, or one of the other pne brands.
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[#14]
Originally Posted By Shootindave: Traveled to the city for work. Stopped at REI ( no homo) I found a set of Asolo 520 GV’s on the used rack for $70 that dont even look like they were walked in outside. Had to join their $30 lesbian co-op outdoor club…… to buy from the used gear……life membership……. Sigh. But they give you a $30 off coupon. Lol. Maybe just trying to drive up memberships to please shareholders. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/123862/IMG_0192_jpeg-3276689.JPG View Quote Well there ya go. Let us know how they are! |
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[#15]
Originally Posted By bondryan: Don’t use snow seal. Buy a legitimate boot grease from whites, danners, or one of the other pne brands. View Quote I've never used Sno Seal, but I've never heard anyone speak ill about it. What's the issue? For gaiters: I like the gray Swiss surplus ones. Not insulated, but they don't need to be. I have some Brit DPM gaiters that are alright, but the Swiss ones are fantastic. |
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"What is socialism? The most difficult and tortuous way to progress from capitalism to capitalism." -Stated at an intel conference, East Berlin, Oct. 1988
"Every election is a sort of advance auction sale of stolen goods." -H.L. Mencken |
[#16]
I know you want them from an American big box store, but have you looked at Altberg boots? They make boots for the British Military and I believe they are primarily full leather.
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[#17]
Man, boots are something that can be so individual that you just sorta have to find the brand(s) that fits ya. Especially if we are talking about getting back into trad full leather boots.
A quick n dirty way is to pull out the insole and step on it; see how close their shape is to your shape. Next step in is to lace 'em up and see what's what. Get on an incline, like they used to have @REI, and make sure they don't slip forward at the instep and crunch yer toes on the toe box. Still good, then walk around awhile and see what's up. Trad boots ain't a gonna feel like sneaker cousins right out of the box, but look for any rubbing spots, especially how they bend on your foot when you take a knee. There are so many choices here, and you guys have pointed many out. And surplus ain't a bad way to try some out on the cheap. But bottom line, you gotta figure out your individual foot shape, and what brands come as close to it as possible. For example, I like an "Italian" last the best, because my feet are slightly narrow, and low volume. Brands like Asolo, LaSportiva, and AKU. I also like tight toe boxes and mountaineering style laces down close to the toes. That's because many boots are too full volume and I need to cinch them down to my feet. For example the original Danners (from the 80's) could be cinched down to my feet, but then the newer ones (early 2,000's) were a lot harder to fit. You might also have to play around with different inserts, and lacing techniques to get your feet set in there, without slipping. I would also stay away from GTX linings and use GTX socks instead. I like the DexShell "trekking" socks. |
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It's all about the fiddle factor.
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