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3/3/2024 2:31:00 PM EDT
Hello. I just bought a 2 year old Amsec NF5924 safe and everything worked when I went to pick it up. I loaded on trailer and laid it on its back to transport. When I got home and put in place standing up it won’t unlock. I’m putting the correct password and it’s making the correct audible for correct password but handle just spins freely. I texted the guy I bought it from and he said handle shouldn’t spin that it is engaged with the bolts and shouldn’t spin like that. It’s looking like something came loose during transport. Is there any suggestions to get it open?  I can’t believe I went through all this trouble moving this thing and the cost of it to not be able to open it.
3/3/2024 4:50:40 PM EDT
[#1]
I wonder if by lying the safe on it's back, you tripped the relocker function. All safes have them now. Thankfully, there is a retired AMSEC safe tech who posts on this forum and if he sees this, he might be able to direct you on how to get it open.
Gary
3/4/2024 2:35:03 PM EDT
[#2]
Thanks for the reply and good to know there’s an expert on this board. I’ve come to the right place.
3/5/2024 3:32:19 PM EDT
[#3]
My guess is, that the clamp connecting handle and bolt work got loose. It is meant to get loose when burglars apply force to the handle to force the bolt work back. Maybe it fell on the handle during transport?

Number 1 recommendation is of course to get a safe tech solving your problem, because doing the wrong things can make the problem worse and create new problems.

If this is not your choice, then I would try to look for another reason to convince the bolts to retract. Depending on the weight I would try to lay it on the hinge side, so that gravity retracts the bolts. Or use something thin to probe the bolts back through the door gap. Or perhaps rotate the handle quickly as there might be still enough friction to retract the bolts.
3/5/2024 5:49:33 PM EDT
[#4]
Thanks for the reply. It didn’t land on handle during transport. I talked to a local locksmith that sells Amsec and he suggested, like you have, to lay it on its hinge side and try to open it and maybe gravity will help move bolts. If that doesn’t work then I’ll have him come out to look at it.
3/7/2024 1:52:15 PM EDT
[#5]
Locksmith was able to open it by drilling into side where bolts are and pushing them open. Thanks to everyone for the advice.
3/8/2024 8:04:36 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote History
Originally Posted By Booyee:
Locksmith was able to open it by drilling into side where bolts are and pushing them open. Thanks to everyone for the advice.
View Quote
Curious, how do they reseal where they drilled the holes?  Some type of epoxy or something else?  
Then conquer we must, when our cause it is just,
And this be our motto: 'In God is our trust.'
And the star-spangled banner in triumph shall wave
O'er the land of the free and the home of the brave!
3/10/2024 11:36:31 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Atropian_Defector][Edited] [#7]
Hopefully they used a welder.. that safe is now compromised with anything less.
4/8/2024 3:48:59 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote History
Originally Posted By Atropian_Defector:
Hopefully they used a welder.. that safe is now compromised with anything less.
View Quote
I wouldn't consider it compromised much at all, the only reason this worked to open the safe, is because the handle wasn't turning the bolt works even when the combo was dialed correctly.  They just used the hole to push the bolts clear in lieu of moving them with the handle.  When the safe is locked, pushing on the bolt won't accomplish much, usually just a tiny little hole is all that is needed.  When I have done this in the past, I have driven a pin into the hole, but I wouldn't consider that required.

Its never a good idea to move a safe using the operating handle as a picking up/wrestling around handle.  Its also not good to transport a safe on its back, it really is best to also prop the door open a little and strap it there in case damage is dome while moving it.
4/27/2024 7:53:26 PM EDT
[#9]
I move a safe with the door unlocked and taped so the lock can’t move and the handle can’t move.
Strap the door shut with a ratchet strap to keep it shut, you can put a wood spacer to keep the door from closing the last 1/2”
When done exercise the door and lock with the door open
Some relockers are released if a pane of glass is broken that is around the lock
If this happens with the door shut and the bolts closed the door is going to be drilled
6/4/2024 4:26:23 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote History
Originally Posted By 7:
Curious, how do they reseal where they drilled the holes?  Some type of epoxy or something else?  
View Quote
A welded on length of 2"x 3/8" flat bar would help disguise the location of the drill holes.
Preferred pronoun: MARINE
6/14/2024 11:34:34 AM EDT
[Last Edit: NYresq1][Edited] [#11]
We had to have a safe drilled at work. Big monster freestanding mosler safe thats used for high value evidence. Something in the spindle came loose or shifted in the lock or something... the dial spun, but the combo didnt work. Even tried the "go one or two numbers off the mark" thing for hours... but no joy.

The safe cracker drilled a hole about 3/8" near the lock in the door, did his thing and got it open and fixed the lock. Made it look easy...

When he was done he made the outside of the hole slightly larger like a countersink, but not drilled all the way through. He then put in a hardened steel ball bearing and hammered it into the hole (it was a seriously tight fit). Then he filled the dimple in the face with some type of fast setting steel epoxy that looked like JB weld, but thinner like a silicone consistency, and then sanded it a little to blend with the rest of the door. He hit it with some black spray paint like the rest of the door and now you cant even see where it was. Even tapping on the door with a metal object sounds the same on the rest of the door and right over the hole in the door.

He said the only way to get that hole open again is if you drive the ball bearing out from the back side. He said if you tried to drill it in the same spot, or close enough to hit the edge, it would probably snap the drill bit when it hit the hardened steel ball.

After he was done opening the safe, I think the hole repair took about 30 minutes, and 10-15 minutes of that was waiting for the epoxy to set so he could sand it...

Eta: and this is why real safe crackers get paid so well... the guy busted into a government owned TR rated safe, repaired it to the point you cant tell anything was done, and was out the door in less than an hour. All the while he had two feds standing behind him looking over his shoulder... He never broke a sweat, cursed or even moved that quickly. He looked "relaxed" the entire time he was working. But he made it look so easy, if anyone watched a youtube of him doing it, they would think they could open up their own shop and become a safe cracker after watching it. I was impressed...

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