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Posted: 7/31/2026 10:47:46 AM EDT
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I may have a bit of OCD and it definitely comes into play with alignment rods. I know it doesn't have to be dead center to not have a baffle strike. Only one of mine looks close enough that I am kind of worried. Out of 6 different cans and 9 different hosts I have one that worries me and two that are perfectly dead center. Majority are off to one side by a small amount. YHM Turbo K on two different mini brakes are dead center. Tisas Night Stalker DS 9 mm is not touching but pretty dang close. I have not shot this set up yet. The suppressor is a OCL Universe 36 with YHM booster housing and Rugged piston. This same set up on a Dagger is almost centered. There is a certain level of satisfaction when you go to check and there is an equal amount of gap all around the alignment rod. Is my experience typical or do other people have a lot more luck? |
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I've been doing a lot of work recently rebarreling some uppers and building new uppers. Actually been getting "unlucky" with about 50% of my first-try MD torque-downs. Great care has to be taken aligning shims with each other and with the barrel muzzle shoulder. Every single one of my concentricity issues has been solved by re-adjusting the same sets of shims, but perfectly centering them and giving it another go. Every barrel shoulder and thread termination on the shoulder is different and every type of shim's dimensions are different. This can lead to a lot of gap / play with the shims as they always want to end up off-center (thanks gravity and/or torque) on the final torque. It makes a huge difference getting those shims perfectly centered (with each other and the barrel muzzle shoulder)- especially when you're intentionally torquing to high-side of the limit on either 1/2x28 or 5/8x24. I have yet to run across a barrel that I couldn't get passable concentricity from. ( I don't buy crap barrels, so that helps) @Green0 |
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On another note, I have always been a fan of Precision Armament's Accuwasher Gen1/Gen sets. However, I have always (especially recently as I'm getting quite OCD on exact MD torque) found there's too much gap between their thicknesses. More than half the time I find myself "in-between" shim sizes using the Accuwasher system. The Gen2's were supposed to solve this and they haven't. The Gen2's helped with centering as their ODs seem ever so slightly smaller than the Gen1s, however. I've switched over to Griffin Armament's almost foil-like shim sets. MUCH better granularity to get perfect torque. Using digital high-end torque wrenches also helps. |
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Originally Posted By Brahmzy: On another note, I have always been a fan of Precision Armament's Accuwasher Gen1/Gen sets. However, I have always (especially recently as I'm getting quite OCD on exact MD torque) found there's too much gap between their thicknesses. More than half the time I find myself "in-between" shim sizes using the Accuwasher system. The Gen2's were supposed to solve this and they haven't. The Gen2's helped with centering as their ODs seem ever so slightly smaller than the Gen1s, however. I've switched over to Griffin Armament's almost foil-like shim sets. MUCH better granularity to get perfect torque. Using digital high-end torque wrenches also helps. Shims are so easy and we’ve had them working since like 2008. Never an issue. It’s all math. 1/28=0.0357. .0357/365=0.0000978. Pitch per rev/365degrees for one degree .002/.0000978=20.45 shim/degree for degrees per shim- essentially a .002 shim is 20.45 degrees, a .01 is 102degrees. Torque will make up for at least 10 degrees splitting the difference so you can get about that accurate without .001’s which are kind of fragile. Clock for around 10:30 prior to torque and you almost don’t need the torque wrench. |
Austin, Managing Partner - www.GriffinArmament.com
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I think I only have two muzzle devices installed with either YHM or Dead Air shims. The rest are the Accu washer ones. Most of them I used a torque wrench on but a couple I just got to about 10 o clock and then evened up. I installed a brake on a Kuna last night with no torque wrench and it seems to have worked out on being concentric and not coming loose removing the suppressor. I hope that is still the case after I shoot it and everything heats up. I haven't thought about removing and retorquing but all of mine with shims have come out acceptable. An AB warthog direct thread on a Howa 1500 is off to the side but fine and then this OCL on the Tisas has me a bit worried. There is a gap on the Tisas its just rather small. |
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I have been able to make a couple "better" by changing the shims and/or torque. The last one just needed more torque. I generally use accuwashers now, but did have to dig out some surefire shims recently when the accuwasher didn't give me what I wanted. Really not much you can do besides try other shims, torque, or different muzzle device. |
| When I got my first can( Hux Flow 556K) it was going to go on a build with a Spikes Tactical 16" CL barrel. The threads on the barrel ended up not being totally concentric and I wasn't comfortable using it. Even tried a second muzzle device I had bought to put on another rifle and the threads on the barrel were definitely off. Swapped the barrel with a DD and it was perfect, as was the DD barrel on the other host gun. |
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