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NY, USA
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Posted: 3/10/2013 7:49:28 PM EDT
[#1]
Here's mine. Have to gear it down a little. New pulley is on order.
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p270/sands143/2013-03-09_15-52-23_271_zpsd7972a53.jpg |
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Posted: 3/14/2013 12:02:54 AM EDT
[#2]
got the dual drum tumbler all done here are some pics.
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Posted: 3/14/2013 4:11:25 AM EDT
[#3]
Originally Posted By BIGGDAWG: Aside from the fact that you're turning out some really nice quality:got the dual drum tumbler all done here are some pics. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/IMG_5102_zpsdd704fc6.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/bluedoubleframetop_zps31263056.jpg Don't try to tell me that they're close enough center-to-center but you haven't tried to put a 3rd drum on top.  |
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Posted: 3/14/2013 7:28:27 AM EDT
[#4]
               this is some pics of my tumbler project.the blue drum and yellow frame I bought on ebay the other ones are what I am making my small drum holds 1000-308 and 2000-223 cases the bigger 10" one holds 2000-308 and 4000-223,I should have them all going early next week I will try a video then
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Posted: 3/14/2013 8:49:40 AM EDT
[#5]
that is kind of funny i didn't try it but i did think of it for a second before i ruled it out
Originally Posted By kaos:
Originally Posted By BIGGDAWG:
Aside from the fact that you're turning out some really nice quality:
got the dual drum tumbler all done here are some pics. <a href="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/IMG_5098_zpsc183495f.jpg" target="_blank">http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/IMG_5098_zpsc183495f.jpg</a> http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/IMG_5102_zpsdd704fc6.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/bluedoubleframetop_zps31263056.jpg Don't try to tell me that they're close enough center-to-center but you haven't tried to put a 3rd drum on top.
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Posted: 3/14/2013 10:20:16 AM EDT
[#6]
Nice!
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Posted: 3/14/2013 12:06:53 PM EDT
[#7]
Has anybody used stainless steel shot that is the same diameter as it is long?
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Posted: 3/14/2013 12:14:49 PM EDT
[#8]
Originally Posted By beakerello:
Has anybody used stainless steel shot that is the same diameter as it is long? I know someone that is using some round stainless shot it is just under .25 inch and he likes it but he is doing 50 bmg and other larger than 30 caliber rifle calibers. |
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Posted: 3/14/2013 12:43:31 PM EDT
[#9]
I know this design is best with the wet SS media but has anyone tryed tumbing dry with walnut and if so is rotary dry tumbling better then the vribrating tumblers?
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FL, USA
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Posted: 3/14/2013 12:52:36 PM EDT
[#10]
Originally Posted By BIGGDAWG:
got the dual drum tumbler all done here are some pics. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/IMG_5098_zpsc183495f.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/IMG_5102_zpsdd704fc6.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/bluedoubleframetop_zps31263056.jpg What motor did you end up using for this? Looks great. |
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Posted: 3/14/2013 1:03:56 PM EDT
[#11]
Originally Posted By Logicgear: I have several wet drums and several dry drums.I know this design is best with the wet SS media but has anyone tryed tumbing dry with walnut and if so is rotary dry tumbling better then the vribrating tumblers? I run a batch in the dry walnut to clean the general grunge off of brass before I cycle it trough my case feeder into the decapper. It keeps my equipment a little cleaner. I don't worry about range-crud jamming up my XL650, or contaminating my lube/grease, and that's important to me. After decapping I put it through a normal wet wash. Yes, dry tumbling is useful, and easier than vibrating, and less dusty. My rotary is a lot quieter than the vibrator too, and doesn't move around like the vib does. An hour in the rotary equals 3 in the vib, and I don't have to dry them before I can process them through my machine. Since I add a glugg of mineral spirits to keep the dust down - my walnut will be used to tumble multiple tens of thousands of cases well after it's useful to you guys a a polishing agent. tl:dr = Yes it works, but they're not interchangeable for results. And dry tumbling in clean media to get the case lube off is very useful, too. |
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Posted: 3/14/2013 1:05:59 PM EDT
[#12]
Originally Posted By FL_Tactical:
Originally Posted By BIGGDAWG:
got the dual drum tumbler all done here are some pics. http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/IMG_5098_zpsc183495f.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/IMG_5102_zpsdd704fc6.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/bluedoubleframetop_zps31263056.jpg What motor did you end up using for this? Looks great. i used a 1/3 hp motor on this one but my 1/4 hp one ran it fine. |
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Posted: 3/14/2013 1:43:42 PM EDT
[#13]
Originally Posted By BIGGDAWG:
Originally Posted By beakerello:
Has anybody used stainless steel shot that is the same diameter as it is long? I know someone that is using some round stainless shot it is just under .25 inch and he likes it but he is doing 50 bmg and other larger than 30 caliber rifle calibers. Thanks, BIGGDAWG, I'm just trying to source my pins locally and am having little to no luck. Another question, if my "wet canister" is will it hurt to use walnut media in it to remove the lube from the cases after sizing? Could I tumble the loaded cases dry, (with cob type media) without something bad happening? I'd be tumbling pistol calibers, 270, 30-06, 5.56, etc. I don't think it would matter. |
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Posted: 3/14/2013 3:18:51 PM EDT
[#14]
Originally Posted By beakerello: The only problems are from:Originally Posted By BIGGDAWG: Originally Posted By beakerello: Has anybody used stainless steel shot that is the same diameter as it is long? I know someone that is using some round stainless shot it is just under .25 inch and he likes it but he is doing 50 bmg and other larger than 30 caliber rifle calibers. Thanks, BIGGDAWG, I'm just trying to source my pins locally and am having little to no luck. Another question, if my "wet canister" is will it hurt to use walnut media in it to remove the lube from the cases after sizing? Could I tumble the loaded cases dry, (with cob type media) without something bad happening? I'd be tumbling pistol calibers, 270, 30-06, 5.56, etc. I don't think it would matter. 1.) Your wet canister ought be dry before you throw walnut in. It just clumps and gets annoying when damp, and until it drys wont separate from your brass easily. 2.) The walnut powder actually embeds into the plastic cylinder somewhat while tumbling in ways that it doesn't occur using a vibratory unit. It makes wet washing messier later. 3.) Each type of media manages to wedge itself between the cylinder and mixing vanes. A small amount is there to mix with the other media if you swap media in the same cylinder. It's just annoying. All 3 problems are no deal breakers, but they'd make me somewhat piqued if I had to deal with them repeatedly. |
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Posted: 3/14/2013 5:36:27 PM EDT
[#15]
Originally Posted By kaos:
Originally Posted By beakerello:
The only problems are from:
Originally Posted By BIGGDAWG:
Originally Posted By beakerello:
Has anybody used stainless steel shot that is the same diameter as it is long? I know someone that is using some round stainless shot it is just under .25 inch and he likes it but he is doing 50 bmg and other larger than 30 caliber rifle calibers. Thanks, BIGGDAWG, I'm just trying to source my pins locally and am having little to no luck. Another question, if my "wet canister" is will it hurt to use walnut media in it to remove the lube from the cases after sizing? Could I tumble the loaded cases dry, (with cob type media) without something bad happening? I'd be tumbling pistol calibers, 270, 30-06, 5.56, etc. I don't think it would matter. 1.) Your wet canister ought be dry before you throw walnut in. It just clumps and gets annoying when damp, and until it drys wont separate from your brass easily. 2.) The walnut powder actually embeds into the plastic cylinder somewhat while tumbling in ways that it doesn't occur using a vibratory unit. It makes wet washing messier later. 3.) Each type of media manages to wedge itself between the cylinder and mixing vanes. A small amount is there to mix with the other media if you swap media in the same cylinder. It's just annoying. All 3 problems are no deal breakers, but they'd make me somewhat piqued if I had to deal with them repeatedly.
Yea- I learned the hard way about not getting all the walnut media out before you add water. I thought I had it all, but when I poured out the wet batch I got a nasty surprise. What a PITA. You're better off with 2 drums IMO. |
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Posted: 3/14/2013 5:40:57 PM EDT
[#16]
I intend on trying a dry mix also just havnt got around to it
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Posted: 3/14/2013 5:42:44 PM EDT
[#17]
my whole point to building mine was to get away from the dry, with the dust crap. I wouldn't run dry in my tumbler. it may work but as has been said i would have 2 separate drums one for dry and one for wet.
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Posted: 3/14/2013 5:50:02 PM EDT
[#18]
have you tried ceramic big dawg
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Posted: 3/14/2013 6:56:49 PM EDT
[#19]
Originally Posted By phil3333:
have you tried ceramic big dawg nope no ceramic, i have ran the normal .041x.255 pin that everyone uses, I have also ran the xxl pin pellets sells it is .063x.5 -- didn't like it at all didn't clean as good or fast on the smaller cases and i now am running a new size i have been testing for Pellets and i love it .047x.255 with these i have had zero pins stuck in the flash holes and i am at over 100lbs of brass tumbled with it. they are now my suggested pin size. |
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Posted: 3/15/2013 12:42:09 AM EDT
[#20]
Originally Posted By BIGGDAWG: Great.Originally Posted By phil3333: have you tried ceramic big dawg nope no ceramic, i have ran the normal .041x.255 pin that everyone uses, I have also ran the xxl pin pellets sells it is .063x.5 -- didn't like it at all didn't clean as good or fast on the smaller cases and i now am running a new size i have been testing for Pellets and i love it .047x.255 with these i have had zero pins stuck in the flash holes and i am at over 100lbs of brass tumbled with it. they are now my suggested pin size. Something else to buy. Thanks for the heads-up. |
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Posted: 3/15/2013 1:21:40 AM EDT
[#21]
Originally Posted By BIGGDAWG:
Originally Posted By phil3333:
have you tried ceramic big dawg nope no ceramic, i have ran the normal .041x.255 pin that everyone uses, I have also ran the xxl pin pellets sells it is .063x.5 -- didn't like it at all didn't clean as good or fast on the smaller cases and i now am running a new size i have been testing for Pellets and i love it .047x.255 with these i have had zero pins stuck in the flash holes and i am at over 100lbs of brass tumbled with it. they are now my suggested pin size. The pins they sent me are .062 x .25. They have been working great and I have not had a single one get stuck. |
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USA
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Posted: 3/15/2013 2:17:19 AM EDT
[#22]
Thanks BIGDAWG, now i gotta build another!!
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CT, USA
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Posted: 3/15/2013 6:51:33 AM EDT
[#23]
Working on a tumbler also. Uses an old 1725 RPM Westinghouse 1/2 HP Resilent Mount motor (not really sure where it came from). A couple pieces of 80/20 extruded aluminum. I used corner connectors, but I could have used end fastners too. 1/2" Hardened rod with heat shrink tubing on them (the kind with the adhesive inside). Picked up some timing pulleys, 20T on motor, 40T on drive shaft, tied the 2 shafts together with 20T pullyes. The drum is Sch 40 6" DWV PVC Pipe, the paddles are SCH 40 1/4 cut 1-1/2" PVC Pipe. The flat head screws are to hold the paddles in place while the PVC cement sets, however, I may reverse them and have them NOT go through the outer tube.. Not sure yet. The end caps are Twist-Tite 6" mechanical test plugs. They're about $19 each, but they are infinitely reusable and cuts down on all the gluing and such.http://s885.beta.photobucket.com/user/rattletrap1970/media/ASSYTUMBLER_zps74d24b57.jpg.html#/user/rattletrap1970/media/ASSYTUMBLER_zps74d24b57.jpg.html?&_suid=136334469450909263250520591701
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CT, USA
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Posted: 3/15/2013 6:52:46 AM EDT
[Last Edit: rattletrap1970]
[#24]
Working on a tumbler also. Uses an old 1725 RPM Westinghouse 1/2 HP Resilent Mount motor (not really sure where it came from). A couple pieces of 80/20 extruded aluminum. I used corner connectors, but I could have used end fastners too. 1/2" Hardened rod with heat shrink tubing on them (the kind with the adhesive inside). Picked up some timing pulleys, 20T on motor, 40T on drive shaft, tied the 2 shafts together with 20T pullyes. The drum is Sch 40 6" DWV PVC Pipe, the paddles are SCH 40 1/4 cut 1-1/2" PVC Pipe. The flat head screws are to hold the paddles in place while the PVC cement sets, however, I may reverse them and have them NOT go through the outer tube.. Not sure yet. The end caps are Twist-Tite 6" mechanical test plugs. They're about $19 each, but they are infinitely reusable and cuts down on all the gluing and such.
http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac51/rattletrap1970/ASSYTUMBLER_zps74d24b57.jpg |
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Posted: 3/15/2013 9:08:47 AM EDT
[Last Edit: usmc0331tamu00]
[#25]
Originally Posted By rattletrap1970:
Working on a tumbler also. Uses an old 1725 RPM Westinghouse 1/2 HP Resilent Mount motor (not really sure where it came from). A couple pieces of 80/20 extruded aluminum. I used corner connectors, but I could have used end fastners too. 1/2" Hardened rod with heat shrink tubing on them (the kind with the adhesive inside). Picked up some timing pulleys, 20T on motor, 40T on drive shaft, tied the 2 shafts together with 20T pullyes. The drum is Sch 40 6" DWV PVC Pipe, the paddles are SCH 40 1/4 cut 1-1/2" PVC Pipe. The flat head screws are to hold the paddles in place while the PVC cement sets, however, I may reverse them and have them NOT go through the outer tube.. Not sure yet. The end caps are Twist-Tite 6" mechanical test plugs. They're about $19 each, but they are infinitely reusable and cuts down on all the gluing and such. http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac51/rattletrap1970/ASSYTUMBLER_zps74d24b57.jpg Freakin' over achiever.
I drew mine in AutoCAD. Nothing that fancy. What software did you use? Good move on linking the two drive shafts. |
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CT, USA
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Posted: 3/15/2013 9:50:54 AM EDT
[#26]
I drew that on Solidworks.
Once it's all built and tested I will put and exploded view and parts list and drawings on here. |
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Posted: 3/15/2013 10:00:38 AM EDT
[#27]
Originally Posted By rattletrap1970:
I drew that on Solidworks. Once it's all built and tested I will put and exploded view and parts list and drawings on here. I would recommend some sort of rubber material for the agitators as it makes a big difference on how loud it is. I've compared mine to one built by a local small time re-manufacturer. He keeps his outside because of the noise. |
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Posted: 3/15/2013 10:54:24 AM EDT
[#28]
BIGGDAWK, you mentioned Pellets LLC, I read earlier that they weren't selling to Mom and Pop Sixpack anymore. Are they selling to the Average Joe? How much are the pellets? Is there a minimum purchase? I'm trying to source locally but everybody only seems to be able to get shot, and I want pellets.
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Posted: 3/15/2013 11:06:41 AM EDT
[#29]
Originally Posted By beakerello:
BIGGDAWK, you mentioned Pellets LLC, I read earlier that they weren't selling to Mom and Pop Sixpack anymore. Are they selling to the Average Joe? How much are the pellets? Is there a minimum purchase? I'm trying to source locally but everybody only seems to be able to get shot, and I want pellets. Minimum order is 25lbs if you order direct from them |
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Posted: 3/15/2013 11:47:02 AM EDT
[#30]
What is the current pricing? Do you know? Yeah, I could just call them and ask, but this is ARFCOM
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 3/15/2013 11:50:35 AM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#31]
Here is what I ended up with. I drew up these frames and had them cut out of 1/4" plate. They are light and sturdy.
<removed the hints about selling these> See next edit. dryflash3 I wanted one that had a timer and switch, although that feature and extra plate could be removed from the design.
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Posted: 3/15/2013 12:04:16 PM EDT
[#32]
just a lttle fyi for uou guys, you dont need agitators in your drum they are a waste of time
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FL, USA
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Posted: 3/15/2013 12:18:39 PM EDT
[#33]
Originally Posted By usmc0331tamu00:
Originally Posted By rattletrap1970:
Working on a tumbler also. Uses an old 1725 RPM Westinghouse 1/2 HP Resilent Mount motor (not really sure where it came from). A couple pieces of 80/20 extruded aluminum. I used corner connectors, but I could have used end fastners too. 1/2" Hardened rod with heat shrink tubing on them (the kind with the adhesive inside). Picked up some timing pulleys, 20T on motor, 40T on drive shaft, tied the 2 shafts together with 20T pullyes. The drum is Sch 40 6" DWV PVC Pipe, the paddles are SCH 40 1/4 cut 1-1/2" PVC Pipe. The flat head screws are to hold the paddles in place while the PVC cement sets, however, I may reverse them and have them NOT go through the outer tube.. Not sure yet. The end caps are Twist-Tite 6" mechanical test plugs. They're about $19 each, but they are infinitely reusable and cuts down on all the gluing and such. http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac51/rattletrap1970/ASSYTUMBLER_zps74d24b57.jpg Freakin' over achiever.
I drew mine in AutoCAD. Nothing that fancy. What software did you use? Good move on linking the two drive shafts. Just curious. What benefit would linking the 2 shafts have? |
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CT, USA
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Posted: 3/15/2013 1:11:39 PM EDT
[#34]
2 wheel drive. I wanted to eliminate any potential friction (or lack thereof) issues. Which is another reason for shrink tubing on the rollers. I used 4:1 ahesive lined tubing, by the time it shrinks it has a good thickness to it and it very "grippy". The nice thing about building it on extruded aluminum is you can very easily adjust the distance between the rollers for different diameter drums and get just the right hold. Belts are only 4 bucks or so a pice so you can afford to get a few different sizes. If you dispense with the "2 wheel drive" you don't need to worry about that at all.
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Posted: 3/15/2013 6:01:40 PM EDT
[#35]
Originally Posted By FL_Tactical:
Originally Posted By usmc0331tamu00:
Originally Posted By rattletrap1970:
Working on a tumbler also. Uses an old 1725 RPM Westinghouse 1/2 HP Resilent Mount motor (not really sure where it came from). A couple pieces of 80/20 extruded aluminum. I used corner connectors, but I could have used end fastners too. 1/2" Hardened rod with heat shrink tubing on them (the kind with the adhesive inside). Picked up some timing pulleys, 20T on motor, 40T on drive shaft, tied the 2 shafts together with 20T pullyes. The drum is Sch 40 6" DWV PVC Pipe, the paddles are SCH 40 1/4 cut 1-1/2" PVC Pipe. The flat head screws are to hold the paddles in place while the PVC cement sets, however, I may reverse them and have them NOT go through the outer tube.. Not sure yet. The end caps are Twist-Tite 6" mechanical test plugs. They're about $19 each, but they are infinitely reusable and cuts down on all the gluing and such. http://i885.photobucket.com/albums/ac51/rattletrap1970/ASSYTUMBLER_zps74d24b57.jpg Freakin' over achiever.
I drew mine in AutoCAD. Nothing that fancy. What software did you use? Good move on linking the two drive shafts. Just curious. What benefit would linking the 2 shafts have? Some people, including myself, had issues with the drum skipping and bouncing around. My 8" drum wouldn't stay on the rollers with a light load. With both rollers driven, the drum will spin smoothly even empty. |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 3/16/2013 10:41:48 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#36]
<post removed> SPECIFIC TO SALES
Situations which have not been covered in this code of conduct may arise and will be handled by moderators and staff who have been carefully chosen to treat such issues with fairness. The frequency of such situations will guide the staff to make changes to this code of conduct as necessary. Read up on the COC above. dryflash3 |
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CT, USA
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Posted: 3/17/2013 8:56:57 PM EDT
[#37]
Well, almost done.. Just waiting on the shrink tubing and I have to bore the pullies to 1/2". Also have to run a reamer through the pillow block bearings, just a bit too tight to assemble. Tumbling drums are done. I'm thinking of having a 1" wide x 1/2 thick PVC ring made to go around the tumbling drum. One at either end, this will allow me to stick 1/2" thick adhesive backed acoustic mat between the rings. This should cut the noise significantly, also it will concentrate the weight of the drum on the two rings and improve the traction of the drive shafts.
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CT, USA
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Posted: 3/17/2013 8:57:48 PM EDT
[#38]
Well, almost done.. Just waiting on the shrink tubing and I have to bore the pullies to 1/2". Also have to run a reamer through the pillow block bearings, just a bit too tight to assemble. Tumbling drums are done. I'm thinking of having a 1" wide x 1/2 thick PVC ring made to go around the tumbling drum. One at either end, this will allow me to stick 1/2" thick adhesive backed acoustic mat between the rings. This should cut the noise significantly, also it will concentrate the weight of the drum on the two rings and improve the traction of the drive shafts.
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CT, USA
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Posted: 3/18/2013 10:09:47 PM EDT
[Last Edit: rattletrap1970]
[#39]
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Posted: 3/18/2013 11:39:36 PM EDT
[#40]
Anyone buying motors on ebay? Daytons (have no idea when it comes to brands of electric motors) are up for a song, less than $40 shipped.... Trying to learn the basics here and not sure what I should be looking for as far as motors go.
Then a friend had to suggest used washers, dryers, etc for $20 on craigslist... Of course then I have a giant appliance to dispose of (tannerite?) |
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AZ, USA
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Posted: 3/19/2013 6:16:01 PM EDT
[#41]
Originally Posted By tucansam:
Anyone buying motors on ebay? Daytons (have no idea when it comes to brands of electric motors) are up for a song, less than $40 shipped.... Trying to learn the basics here and not sure what I should be looking for as far as motors go. Then a friend had to suggest used washers, dryers, etc for $20 on craigslist... Of course then I have a giant appliance to dispose of (tannerite?) Same question here, I'm trying to figure out a good source for a motor...anyone have something? Will a treadmill motor be too powerful? |
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Posted: 3/19/2013 10:19:20 PM EDT
[#42]
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Posted: 3/19/2013 10:24:11 PM EDT
[#43]
pretty much any motor you can find will work, several guys are usuing treadmill motors. the motor size is dependent on the size of tumbler you are building.
the thumler uses a 1/20th or so hp motor mine uses a 1/4 but i can run 90lbs on my tumbler total. |
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IN, USA
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Posted: 3/19/2013 10:31:13 PM EDT
[#44]
Originally Posted By ShootersElement:
Originally Posted By tucansam:
Anyone buying motors on ebay? Daytons (have no idea when it comes to brands of electric motors) are up for a song, less than $40 shipped.... Trying to learn the basics here and not sure what I should be looking for as far as motors go. Then a friend had to suggest used washers, dryers, etc for $20 on craigslist... Of course then I have a giant appliance to dispose of (tannerite?) Same question here, I'm trying to figure out a good source for a motor...anyone have something? Will a treadmill motor be too powerful? Highly recommend the treadmill but I am biased. Treadmill information |
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Posted: 3/19/2013 10:46:41 PM EDT
[#45]
Guys,
http://tucson.craigslist.org/tls/3576346798.html Would something like this work (left cold because I don't know if there is any policy against posting someone else's CL ad -- mods, I'm trying to get info, not pimp this guy's products) I'm a motor dummy... Would it be easy to remove the blower and salvage the motor and shaft? |
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Posted: 3/19/2013 10:48:25 PM EDT
[#46]
I would think those could be made to work.
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Posted: 3/19/2013 11:37:27 PM EDT
[#47]
Originally Posted By tucansam: http://tucson.craigslist.org/tls/3576346798.htmlGuys, http://tucson.craigslist.org/tls/3576346798.html Would something like this work (left cold because I don't know if there is any policy against posting someone else's CL ad -- mods, I'm trying to get info, not pimp this guy's products) I'm a motor dummy... Would it be easy to remove the blower and salvage the motor and shaft? As long as link is not to your ad, it's fine. The 3450 RPM is not what I would buy. You want a 1750 RPM motor. But HP on those motors are fine.
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Posted: 3/20/2013 9:12:21 AM EDT
[#48]
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
[/div]
Originally Posted By tucansam:
http://tucson.craigslist.org/tls/3576346798.htmlGuys, http://tucson.craigslist.org/tls/3576346798.html Would something like this work (left cold because I don't know if there is any policy against posting someone else's CL ad -- mods, I'm trying to get info, not pimp this guy's products) I'm a motor dummy... Would it be easy to remove the blower and salvage the motor and shaft? As long as link is not to your ad, it's fine. The 3450 RPM is not what I would buy. This. You can use a 3450 RPM motor, but you will need twice as much reduction in your pulleys. HP is really not an issue because you are gearing it down so much. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 3/23/2013 6:26:24 PM EDT
[#49]
On my way to a spot I can shoot at close, I noticed some trash someone dumped on the side of the road.
I damn near locked the brakes up when I saw a piece of PVC with it. Anyhow, it was a 11' piece of 8" sch 40, something I have not been able to find locally. I've been using a piece of 6", now I can go the bigger stuff 
Will order the caps and ends Mon,, I didn't even get to fire a round on a beautiful day today. And, no, not for sale. |
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Posted: 3/23/2013 7:51:01 PM EDT
[#50]
an old 1725 RPM Westinghouse 1/2 HP Resilent Mount motor
Be careful around long haired pets and two legged varmints. That thing could snatch you bald. None of these devices I see will pass OSHA muster for exposed rotating shafting. 
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