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Posted: 1/29/2026 11:30:55 PM EDT
I just got a PVS-14 a couple of weeks ago and got a Holoson Iris3 for my dedicated NV rifle. I have run it in this particular configuration, but the white light blocks about 1/4 of the IR flood, plus the 2 switches seem pretty complicated. I was debating if I even need a white light and if so, maybe just go to a light with just a tailcap button. 
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f that noise...
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Originally Posted By MK19: I just got a PVS-14 a couple of weeks ago and got a Holoson Iris3 for my dedicated NV rifle. I have run it in this particular configuration, but the white light blocks about 1/4 of the IR flood, plus the 2 switches seem pretty complicated. I was debating if I even need a white light and if so, maybe just go to a light with just a tailcap button. https://i.imgur.com/YR1IIvI.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/7Jf9kmK.jpeg It looks like you have a lot going on there. Is the Iris that far back because of clearance issues with the light? If so, you could look into one of those rotational or offset mounts, or maybe even raising the Iris a bit before removing the white light. I guess it depends on what you plan on using the rifle for. Moving the Iris forward would also free up a ton of space and might allow you to position the switches better. I prefer to have everything as far forward as possible without it getting battered by the muzzle blast or melted by the silencer. My setup isn't exactly novel, but it has worked well for me in a couple night matches. Pictures below. Click To View Spoiler |
| Definitely a lot o monkey motion going on there. If you're mounting your IRIS that far back for weight you could mount it on the left side of the rail. To run slick and snag free I'd get rid of the pressure pads and you can keep everything where it is. For me if i where to use a pressure pad I'd want it far and out of the way from my normal grip usually close to the receiver. The reason why is if I wanted to aim passively holding further out to activate a button/pad with nods puts a strain on my arms because of the position. It's best to test your gear how you intend to use it and figure out what works for you and what doesn't so you don't end up with bins among bins of rails/extensions/pressure pads/etc that you thought you needed. |
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I'd push the lam forward so you can hit the fire button comfortably and then arrange everything around that. Remote switches fail, get unplugged etc. Not saying you shouldn't use them but if the lam is your primary aiming method the fire button needs to be accessible and you need to practice using it. Eta I don't know how long the iris is but if you can get everything arranged to operate with your thumb in a c grip that's ideal. You can have the switches done however but the fire on the lam is your o shit button and you want it usable with your normal shooting grip. That white light on mine does a super narrow beam so in your case you'll probably want it pushed more forward so it doesn't shadow on your suppressor. 
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I have my iris all the up on a 10 inch rail with a scout light on the left side, I do not use a tape switch for either. I have a stubby grip at a position my thumb lays right behind the iris, I can shift my grip slightly and hit the button the iris. It is a little more twisting to get the rear button the light thou. I can get pics tonight |
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Originally Posted By MK19: I just got a PVS-14 a couple of weeks ago and got a Holoson Iris3 for my dedicated NV rifle. I have run it in this particular configuration, but the white light blocks about 1/4 of the IR flood, plus the 2 switches seem pretty complicated. I was debating if I even need a white light and if so, maybe just go to a light with just a tailcap button. https://i.imgur.com/YR1IIvI.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/7Jf9kmK.jpeg White light is just as important on a NV gun as it is on a non-NV gun. Definitely keep it. Clicky cap is also better to avoid a white light ND. Check out the Overbore Systems SWVL for a better white light fit with the laser. |
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http://www.tnvc.com
[email protected]
(909) 796-7000 Ex. 610
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Attached File Attached File Attached File Couple different setups. The IRIS is very light but if you wanted to run it further back, I’d recommend a riser rail like the Noisefighters CliffhangIR here. |
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Attached File Attached File Attached File MAWL buttons, then a SF Vampire on a Unity button. Very ergo. |
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Not a ton of rail space to work with but I can still get my paws on it. Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By MK19: I just got a PVS-14 a couple of weeks ago and got a Holoson Iris3 for my dedicated NV rifle. I have run it in this particular configuration, but the white light blocks about 1/4 of the IR flood, plus the 2 switches seem pretty complicated. I was debating if I even need a white light and if so, maybe just go to a light with just a tailcap button. https://i.imgur.com/YR1IIvI.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/7Jf9kmK.jpeg Dude you need a SKIFF |
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Holosun IRIS , light mounted at 9 o’clock on an Arisaka inline mount. No switches. Nice and simple. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Glck1911: Holosun IRIS , light mounted at 9 o’clock on an Arisaka inline mount. No switches. Nice and simple. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/507494/IMG_1873_jpeg-3705172.JPG 
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HRF makes the skiff for unity fast mounts.  Arisaka makes similar for their mounts that's a third of the cost.  Personally, I think you have enough rail space to not need this solution. But if you are having wondering zero issues due to your handguard this may be what you want. But to your original post. Now that you have nv, your white light requirements are not as large. Still need it for daytime looks in dark areas and that's about it imo. |
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Originally Posted By Marksman14: Dude you need a SKIFF Originally Posted By Marksman14: Dude you need a SKIFF No he doesn’t. He has more than enough railspace to push the iris to end of the rail. Originally Posted By Glck1911: Holosun IRIS , light mounted at 9 o’clock on an Arisaka inline mount. No switches. Nice and simple. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/507494/IMG_1873_jpeg-3705172.JPG Exactly like this. |
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Originally Posted By Caeser2001: No he doesn’t. He has more than enough railspace to push the iris to end of the rail. Exactly like this. To be fair, I’m tall with long arms. That’s an 11.5”rail and it’s perfect for me, but any longer and I’d want switches to make it easier and more comfortable to activate/shoot. |
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If you want to do all the things, you need a lot of options or a lot of money. Mine is my go to so wanted active and passive. I have a NV dot on top of my lpvo. Then out front I have a surefire vampire that can do white or IR, and a knock off mawl that does IR illumination/laser/both. Kind of a lot going on but once you get used to it the manipulation isn’t bad. I would not hate a Trl IR that just did everything kinda ok but I’m also in the suburbs. |
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Originally Posted By bobmysterious: Not a ton of rail space to work with but I can still get my paws on it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/161735/IMG_1500_jpeg-3704589.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/161735/IMG_1503_jpeg-3704590.JPG How is the rmr hd for passive? |
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Originally Posted By bbridson: I prefer to have everything as far forward as possible without it getting battered by the muzzle blast or melted by the silencer. My setup isn't exactly novel, but it has worked well for me in a couple night matches. Tons of examples to look at here: Official Weapon Mounted IR Laser Pic Thread |
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I like having the iris3 at the end of the hand guard, surefire light to the right of the iris, the switch for the iris on the top of the hand guard behind the iris. The only problem I have is where to put the tape switch for the surefire. Currently I have that also on the top of the rail behind the iris switch. So from tip to ass it is iris, iris switch, surefire switch, aimpoint t2. It works but it kind of sucks to have to reach that far back to activate the surefire tape switch. Not much room on an 11.5” rifle. Meh. |
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Originally Posted By Benjamin-Linus: I like having the iris3 at the end of the hand guard, surefire light to the right of the iris, the switch for the iris on the top of the hand guard behind the iris. The only problem I have is where to put the tape switch for the surefire. Currently I have that also on the top of the rail behind the iris switch. So from tip to ass it is iris, iris switch, surefire switch, aimpoint t2. It works but it kind of sucks to have to reach that far back to activate the surefire tape switch. Not much room on an 11.5” rifle. Meh. Remove the tapeswitch and use the fire button on the unit. |
| XPS-3 on a unity riser, surefire scout pro body with a Arisaka IR-250 head and a Perst-4 on a TAPS SYNC. 14.5" middy with a surefire 3 prong. I'm pretty happy with it. |
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Attached File There is no reason to have a LAM moved close to the reciever except in very few niche applications. It creates problems that don't need to exist. The Iris is so light, compact, and fire button ergonomic, no tape switch is needed with it and it adds very little weight to the front end of a rail. 11.5 super duty for reference. All controls are manipulated with no change to the support hand placement |
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Originally Posted By Benjamin-Linus: I like having the iris3 at the end of the hand guard, surefire light to the right of the iris, the switch for the iris on the top of the hand guard behind the iris. The only problem I have is where to put the tape switch for the surefire. Currently I have that also on the top of the rail behind the iris switch. So from tip to ass it is iris, iris switch, surefire switch, aimpoint t2. It works but it kind of sucks to have to reach that far back to activate the surefire tape switch. Not much room on an 11.5” rifle. Meh. Thats where the SKIFF comes into play. If you don't run tape switches, obviously this doesn't apply to you. Since I see the OP does, this is where the suggestion comes in. For, me, I like to have my grips and switches in the same place on all my rifles, from 11.5 to 14.5. I have plenty of room to rail mount a laser on a 14.5 and put a switch right behind it. I generally speaking do not on an 11.5 unless I hang the laser slightly over the front of the rail. I also have lasers with rear mounted batteries, which makes them not play so well with unity switches closely mounted up against the back of the laser. Again, this doesn't apply here, but given that the biggest downside of the holosun is the atrocious switches, having good access to them helps. The laser being farther to the rear keeps the balance of the rifle where I prefer it, and it also puts the laser closer to my optic- since I run a parallel zero, this actually helps quite a bit and keeps everything about as close as you can get it. So, its an option. And its a fairly good one if it fits how you like to run a rifle. |
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Originally Posted By Alpha-17: https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55116479296_02578c91c6_z.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/55116681138_38383962dc_z.jpg Definitely vote having the laser forward. No reason not to. Minus the massive amount of weight loaded on the front of your rifle that impacts your target transitions. Again, might not be everyone's priority, but to say there's no reason not to....is false. |
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Originally Posted By Clasky: My night vision rifle is set up the same as my daytime rifle. It's the same rifle. Same Attached File |
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Originally Posted By MK19: OK< I moved everything around and yeah, SO much better. Thanks gang! https://i.imgur.com/NqoMq1I.jpeg Much better. Well, most of it anyways. |
| I run a REIN at 1 o’clock on both. The 16” has a DBAL D2 at 12 o’oclock, at the end of the rail. The 9” has a DBAL A3 in the same position. I use the onboard fire buttons. Aimpoint on both. I think the 16” is a 1.93? The 9” is definitely a Unity FAST 2.26”. |
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Originally Posted By MK19: OK< I moved everything around and yeah, SO much better. Thanks gang! https://i.imgur.com/NqoMq1I.jpeg Is the REIN remote switch mounted with the offset mount or directly to the handguard? |
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I have my lasers out at the end of the rails. I use DBAL A3's with the integrated front sight. I use the Surefire dual pad switch to run my vampire light and the DBAL. It can be frustrating, because there's a lot going on with the switching and depending on which laser module you have, flipping between the various modes. The one thing I will say is no matter what, you have to get out there and train in the actual conditions. You don't want to be cycling through your different modes and hitting the button every time just to see what mode you're in. You kind of have to memorize their order forwards and backwards. |
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Originally Posted By WTFShane: Is the REIN remote switch mounted with the offset mount or directly to the handguard? Originally Posted By WTFShane: Is the REIN remote switch mounted with the offset mount or directly to the handguard? On the other side of the rail. I really wish CD REIN's allowed for use of just the tail cap... Originally Posted By JoeSP1: It can be frustrating, because there's a lot going on with the switching and depending on which laser module you have, flipping between the various modes. The one thing I will say is no matter what, you have to get out there and train in the actual conditions. You don't want to be cycling through your different modes and hitting the button every time just to see what mode you're in. You kind of have to memorize their order forwards and backwards. 100% I run in the woods a lot and wear gloves, so it seems even more important, as my sense of touch is obviously diminished. |
f that noise...
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Over the years I've tried: TLR-VIR 2, DBAL-I2 w/ white light, OTAL-C w/ white light & Malkoff IR light, Chinese ATPIAL w/ white light, maybe a few others I'm forgetting but they all sucked in one way or another. I settled on an M300V w/ passive aiming for the last few years prioritizing simple and small/lightweight, beyond that it still kind of sucks because the throw on the M300V in white and IR isn't very good. Fast forward to this week I decided to pick up an IRIS4 and I think I've found the holy grail: not too expensive, simple/lightweight, well designed buttonology, the IR and white illumination is super strong, the white light is way better than the Malkoff & Surefire I still have. Attached File Attached File |
No one could take His life, He laid it down for me,
That twisted wreath of thorns, yea He took that crown for me,
But after three days, out of the ground for me,
He overcame it all, now I live to serve Him
That twisted wreath of thorns, yea He took that crown for me,
But after three days, out of the ground for me,
He overcame it all, now I live to serve Him
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Originally Posted By AndBen: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/481934/IMG_0412_jpeg-3704556.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/481934/IMG_0413_jpeg-3704559.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/481934/IMG_0414_jpeg-3704560.JPG MAWL buttons, then a SF Vampire on a Unity button. Very ergo. I know you can lock it out, but Id be afraid of hitting the hot button going for the slider or lockout tab. |
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Originally Posted By JohnDough: I know you can lock it out, but Id be afraid of hitting the hot button going for the slider or lockout tab. Originally Posted By JohnDough: Originally Posted By AndBen: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/481934/IMG_0412_jpeg-3704556.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/481934/IMG_0413_jpeg-3704559.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/481934/IMG_0414_jpeg-3704560.JPG MAWL buttons, then a SF Vampire on a Unity button. Very ergo. I know you can lock it out, but Id be afraid of hitting the hot button going for the slider or lockout tab. Just took a 2 night NV class. It wasnt an issue at all. Not once. |
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Originally Posted By AndBen: Just took a 2 night NV class. It wasnt an issue at all. Not once. Good to hear! I have kindof pivoted and gone another direction. Attached File |
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