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Posted: 11/11/2025 12:17:46 AM EDT
[Last Edit: cms81586][Edited]
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Question is whether or not I should weld the stack before I weld the end cap on. Planning on doing HUB threads on the rear. Attached File |
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Still waiting on my Ti. I have half of it. Got bored and started this integral Ruger MK4. Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By User55645: MK's are always cool. I'll be doing at least 2 after the new year brings freebies. Plan for internals? Doing short K-baffles. 0.5” in length. Will clip them all once I get a dozen of of these done. Attached File End cap is done. Going to shorten it 3/4” or so and rethread the end that threads onto the muzzle. While functional, I’m not happy with the threads. Been a decade since I ran a lathe so I’m relearning some of this…. Attached File |
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Do you have experience cutting K's? I ask because even though they can be very effective, it usually takes several revisions to get them right. I would've suggested progressively spaced, double-clipped cones. You almost can't go wrong with them. I'd recommend some features on that end cap, to make disassembly easier. |
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Originally Posted By User55645: Do you have experience cutting K's? I ask because even though they can be very effective, it usually takes several revisions to get them right. I would've suggested progressively spaced, double-clipped cones. You almost can't go wrong with them. I'd recommend some features on that end cap, to make disassembly easier. I’ve done some before. The baffles are only about half way done. They’re a pretty close copy of a proven commercial design. The end cap will get milled for a spanner wrench. I want to get the first step of all the baffles cut before I finish turning the front side and clip them. |
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Originally Posted By cms81586: I’ve done some before. The baffles are only about half way done. They’re a pretty close copy of a proven commercial design. The end cap will get milled for a spanner wrench. I want to get the first step of all the baffles cut before I finish turning the front side and clip them. I gotcha. |
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Going to give these a shot and see how they sound. If they’re not that great then I’ll start over with cones. Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Test fired 5 rnds this evening when I finished it. It’s most definitely quieter than my SiCo Sparrow, but that’s not saying a whole lot. |
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@cms81586 You could try running the ball mill into the skirt / bore exit of each baffle to create an exit scoop opposite your face scoop. This will reduce some tunneling and possibly improve flow into the area outside the cone / skirt. A dater hole in the face of the blast baffle might help with first round pop, as might reducing the size of the blast chamber. |
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Originally Posted By KalmanPhilter: @cms81586 You could try running the ball mill into the skirt / bore exit of each baffle to create an exit scoop opposite your face scoop. This will reduce some tunneling and possibly improve flow into the area outside the cone / skirt. A dater hole in the face of the blast baffle might help with first round pop, as might reducing the size of the blast chamber. Appreciate the tips. I’ll make some adjustments this weekend when I have time to mess with it a bit more. I did run the mill in a bit on most of them but may have fell short on a couple. I probably milled the scoops a little far out…could have done about 50% coverage offset from the bore exit but the little mill/lathe combo I had isn’t super rigid and it doesn’t like aggressive cuts. Some day I’ll have a knee mill but not yet. I also started a .30cal mini can in Ti with a HUB thread on the back end…have one come baffle done and three more to make. Turning Ti isn’t as bad as I thought it would be but parting gets spicy. The endcap on this one will get tig welded once I’m done. Attached File |
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It might be a bit too late for the build (but not for the mental Rolodex) I cut K's like below. The Scoop/Clip is a ball end mill which is centered on the bore OD. Depth is determined by the design, but you try to get it like the picture. The Vent cut is done from the same side, after the Scoop, and plunged in on an angle. I usually use a bell end mill a size smaller than the Scoop. You don't want to go too deep as it's easy to enlarge the hole from the outside, done incrementally while testing.  Yeah, Ti isn't difficult to machine. I cut everything dry, except parting. I use water soluble cutting fluid slowly dripping on the cutter, for these operations. |
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