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Posted: 6/25/2024 12:52:52 PM EDT
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I have a Fort Knox safe. It is about 15 years old. About a year ago, I had to replace the original S&G lock (I think a 6120) with a new lock. The new lock looks like this Titan lock. So here we are a year later and I now have to take the battery out and put it back in each time I want to use the lock. Without doing that the keypad is just dead. After removing anf reinserting the battery it allows me to unlock the safe one time. I went to the Fort Knox website and it appears that they don't sell this lock any longer. They list a Securam lock. Is the lock I have good or should I switch? I have to go through a procedure that requires removal of the back panel on the door to fix this lock (calibrate something). If this is a bad lock, I will just replace it now. |
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Originally Posted By rssc: I have a Fort Knox safe. It is about 15 years old. About a year ago, I had to replace the original S&G lock (I think a 6120) with a new lock. The new lock looks like this Titan lock. So here we are a year later and I now have to take the battery out and put it back in each time I want to use the lock. Without doing that the keypad is just dead. After removing anf reinserting the battery it allows me to unlock the safe one time. I went to the Fort Knox website and it appears that they don't sell this lock any longer. They list a Securam lock. Is the lock I have good or should I switch? I have to go through a procedure that requires removal of the back panel on the door to fix this lock (calibrate something). If this is a bad lock, I will just replace it now. I've drilled a disproportionately large amount of safes with Securams, and you are playing with fire messing around with that Titan acting up like that. If you want an electronic get an ESL10XL or get a S&G mechanical. |
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Securam locks use a small motor to move a pin back and then forward again The locks that are heavily used, ie several times a day can have the motor fail because the brushes are worn out and stop touching the contacts in the motor The other thing about them is the keypad (or any cut multi layer membrane keypad is high humidity and a water spill will kill the keypad) so I seal the cut edges with a silicon RTV. so no water can get in the cut edge. Just push it into the crack that is the cut edge and wipe off. Also only use good quality alkaline 9v batteries in the securam locks. The cheap ones (carbon zinc, or no name crap) will fail quickly or not work at all I work on safes and ATMs and deal with locks every day All the locks I have for my safes are the laguard basic II 33E spin face. They just work every time. https://www.ebay.com/itm/196387598428itmmeta=01J22KAFZ1CGP8KVNVZW9PTKB2&hash=item2db99cf05c:g:Zv0AAOSwjrRmPUP7 |
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I have had to replace several of the S&G 6120 locks. Not impressed. I upgraded to the Securam Safelogic Extreme, which is both a keypad electronic lock and a mechanical spin dial lock. So it is unlikely for both the electronics and the dial to fail at the same time. Not sure why S&G doesn’t make a version like this. Way more expensive of a lock, but well worth the money if it saves you a safe drilling call and aggravation from being locked out of your safe in the meantime. |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
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Originally Posted By SC-Notary: I changed both of our safes to the Sargent & Greenleaf 6730-100 dial locks. No backdoor codes for the feds. No batteries to die, no motors to fail.  |
You must hate a Democrat as you would the Devil.
Extremism in defense of liberty is no vice. Moderation in pursuit of justice is no virtue.
NorCal_LEO-assigned callsign Bulkhead
Extremism in defense of liberty is no vice. Moderation in pursuit of justice is no virtue.
NorCal_LEO-assigned callsign Bulkhead
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Originally Posted By SC-Notary: I changed both of our safes to the Sargent & Greenleaf 6730-100 dial locks. No backdoor codes for the feds. No batteries to die, no motors to fail. How tough is it to change from a keypad lock to a mechanical? I've got a Winchester Ranger safe that's 10 years old and been wanting to change it before I have an issue and regret it. |
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Originally Posted By SC-Notary: I changed both of our safes to the Sargent & Greenleaf 6730-100 dial locks. No backdoor codes for the feds. No batteries to die, no motors to fail. Fyi you can clear the master codes if you want to. Instructions have been available for that for a while. |
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Originally Posted By Weasel_Master: How tough is it to change from a keypad lock to a mechanical? I've got a Winchester Ranger safe that's 10 years old and been wanting to change it before I have an issue and regret it. It took about an hour for the first one, 30 min for the second one. First was a Mesa burglar / fire safe with a LaGuard china mechanical lock. Second was a Liberty with the SecureRam digital. Both now set to the same combo. |
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I like this video on yt explaining how to install a mechanical combination lock: S&G 6730 Combination Lock Installation If you have a standard format electronic lock in your safe this is probably all you need to do. But there are safes with non-standard format locks. There is a video on yt which show what the owner had to do to make it fit. Safe lock conversion (digital to mechanical) |
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My S&G electronic lock went Tango Uniform and the safe almost needed to be drilled. Thankfully Fort Knox takes the term "lifetime warranty" seriously. They sent a locksmith out who was able to get the safe open. I was given the option of replacing the old lock with another electronic one, or I get a dial lock installed. I went with dial. |
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