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Posted: 7/30/2024 1:06:18 PM EDT
I'm getting ready to do an airbrush moly-resin job on a lower to match (roughly) an old 604 upper, and I want to do a better quality job than I have been known to in the past lol. A while ago I bought some stuff off a guy who was doing diy powder coating, so besides the gun and some dyes I got a dedicated toaster oven (the temp of which I calibrated recently) and an old hot-dog steamer with three bays that he was using for bluing and degreasing, with a pile of dedicated (partially powder-coated) pans and racks and such. So since good degreasing is the key to a good finish, how are you guys doing it? I've used brake cleaner and various solvents in the past, but there must be a hot-water-based method. Edumacate me, guys!

(On a side note, anyone ever try to powder-coat a gun? Just curious--)
Link Posted: 7/30/2024 1:18:46 PM EDT
[Last Edit: fxntime] [#1]
If you want to use water, use brake cleaner initially, then a hot water concentrate of TSP. Rinse with hot/boiling water. Use latex/like gloves, touch nothing with your greasy nasty fingers and hands.

Non water, acetone kicks ass.
Link Posted: 7/30/2024 3:26:39 PM EDT
[#2]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By fxntime:
If you want to use water, use brake cleaner initially, then a hot water concentrate of TSP. Rinse with hot/boiling water. Use latex/like gloves, touch nothing with your greasy nasty fingers and hands.

Non water, acetone kicks ass.
View Quote

This will work.  Instead of brake cleaner, I some times use hot water and Dawn dishwashing detergent.  Then the TSP solution  on top of that.
Link Posted: 7/30/2024 3:44:21 PM EDT
[#3]
I used to do a ton of KG guncote refinishing, I had a contract for the Houston area Gander Mountain sporting goods stores…

I used acetone to degrease
Link Posted: 7/30/2024 4:00:32 PM EDT
[#4]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By fxntime:
If you want to use water, use brake cleaner initially, then a hot water concentrate of TSP. Rinse with hot/boiling water. Use latex/like gloves, touch nothing with your greasy nasty fingers and hands.

Non water, acetone kicks ass.
View Quote



Awesomeness abounds here. I like it.
Link Posted: 7/30/2024 4:58:36 PM EDT
[#5]
Hot soapy water, simple green works great for this.  In fact simple green was developed for cleaning automotive rims prior to coating.  Followed by acetone bath.  Wear gloves at all times to prevent contamination of lower.  Dry with a heat gun inspecting part for any oiley residue.  If ANY is found repeat above steps.
Link Posted: 8/5/2024 2:49:00 PM EDT
[#6]
One thing that I learned the hard way.  If this is a previously used and oiled weapon.  BAKE it , to get all the oils n shit out of all those tiny recesses, which will come forth and ruin your coating if left in place.  When the oil spooges out, hit it with break parts cleaner, wipe, then re-insert in oven.  When it quits purging, and you're 100% confident you got it all, then do a final break parts spray.  

Also to add, do a bead blast whenever possible.  Even on anodized aluminum.  Just blast lightly enough to get surface oils n stuff off, and leave anodized base coat.

Just one way of doing things.
Link Posted: 8/17/2024 7:02:48 PM EDT
[#7]
If gun has been shot before, spray it down good with non chlorinated brake cleaner.

Hit it with a scuff pad if you plan for it to be permanent.

Hit with brake cleaner again. Let dry.

Wet a rag with acetone and wipe down. Try not to touch it much. Let dry.

Put on gloves and wipe down with a clean rag that doesn’t leave particulate. You can test by shaking the rag in the sun to see how much crap falls off of it.

Spray.
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