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Posted: 7/30/2024 1:06:18 PM EDT
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I'm getting ready to do an airbrush moly-resin job on a lower to match (roughly) an old 604 upper, and I want to do a better quality job than I have been known to in the past lol. A while ago I bought some stuff off a guy who was doing diy powder coating, so besides the gun and some dyes I got a dedicated toaster oven (the temp of which I calibrated recently) and an old hot-dog steamer with three bays that he was using for bluing and degreasing, with a pile of dedicated (partially powder-coated) pans and racks and such. So since good degreasing is the key to a good finish, how are you guys doing it? I've used brake cleaner and various solvents in the past, but there must be a hot-water-based method. Edumacate me, guys! (On a side note, anyone ever try to powder-coat a gun? Just curious--) |
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If you want to use water, use brake cleaner initially, then a hot water concentrate of TSP. Rinse with hot/boiling water. Use latex/like gloves, touch nothing with your greasy nasty fingers and hands. Non water, acetone kicks ass. |
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I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
I'm getting down to the last box, the others have all been destroyed...
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Originally Posted By fxntime: If you want to use water, use brake cleaner initially, then a hot water concentrate of TSP. Rinse with hot/boiling water. Use latex/like gloves, touch nothing with your greasy nasty fingers and hands. Non water, acetone kicks ass. This will work. Instead of brake cleaner, I some times use hot water and Dawn dishwashing detergent. Then the TSP solution on top of that. |
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Originally Posted By fxntime: If you want to use water, use brake cleaner initially, then a hot water concentrate of TSP. Rinse with hot/boiling water. Use latex/like gloves, touch nothing with your greasy nasty fingers and hands. Non water, acetone kicks ass. Awesomeness abounds here. I like it. |
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| Hot soapy water, simple green works great for this. In fact simple green was developed for cleaning automotive rims prior to coating. Followed by acetone bath. Wear gloves at all times to prevent contamination of lower. Dry with a heat gun inspecting part for any oiley residue. If ANY is found repeat above steps. |
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Robert A. Heinlein
"Leave the Artillerymen alone, they are an obstinate lot. . ."
Napoleon Bonaparte
Robert A. Heinlein
"Leave the Artillerymen alone, they are an obstinate lot. . ."
Napoleon Bonaparte
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One thing that I learned the hard way. If this is a previously used and oiled weapon. BAKE it , to get all the oils n shit out of all those tiny recesses, which will come forth and ruin your coating if left in place. When the oil spooges out, hit it with break parts cleaner, wipe, then re-insert in oven. When it quits purging, and you're 100% confident you got it all, then do a final break parts spray. Also to add, do a bead blast whenever possible. Even on anodized aluminum. Just blast lightly enough to get surface oils n stuff off, and leave anodized base coat. Just one way of doing things. |
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If gun has been shot before, spray it down good with non chlorinated brake cleaner. Hit it with a scuff pad if you plan for it to be permanent. Hit with brake cleaner again. Let dry. Wet a rag with acetone and wipe down. Try not to touch it much. Let dry. Put on gloves and wipe down with a clean rag that doesn’t leave particulate. You can test by shaking the rag in the sun to see how much crap falls off of it. Spray. |
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I am in a similar situation. Have a 40" SS bluing tank. Want to do this in my basement, so even with ventilation in place I am concerned about/want to minimize fumes. Simple green needs a warm water rinse and an extra 30-45 min in the oven to offgas so youre adding about an hour to each project/piece. Has anyone used wax and grease remover or 99% Isopropyl alcohol in a tank? At least then I could find a seal for the tank lid, acetone would eat up anything I can think of. Side note, tank will be in a ventilated mixing station. Worried about fumes when not using and ventilation not on. |
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