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Posted: 5/6/2024 3:10:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Cascade-Dude]
[#1]
Another 690 .223 cases added to the stockpile.
This should put my total stash at around 2,300 .223 cases. Almost 600 of them are PMC X-TAX cases with the PSD headstamp. When I get my home and livestock defense loads sorted and am ready to load them in bulk, I'd like to do it in blocks of 1,000 rounds of the same headstamp. And in an ideal world, I'll get enough brass I don't need that I can barter for the powder I'll need to fill them up and maybe for blasting bullets too. I think I'm just getting started with range brass, in other words. 
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Posted: 5/6/2024 9:29:38 PM EDT
[#2]
Love the bling.
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Posted: 5/6/2024 10:07:31 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Love the bling. Thanks! I learned from the best.
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Posted: 5/8/2024 6:13:11 PM EDT
[#4]
Four hours and seven 40-grit discs later, the first sanding is almost complete. I spent some time on the top of all the the intersections that will be under the top, to take down any high spots and make it all as level and flat as possible. I need to get out the triangle-head detail sander and finish up the spots that were too tight for the random orbital (second pic). There were a lot of big chips that had to be removed and sanded down (third pic). I don't expect the other sanding runs to take nearly as long.
I sanded everything. The bottom of the feet, the parts of the frame that will be covered with plywood ... everything. I'll keep doing so, too. I like sanding. I always have. My 30-year old B&D random orbital sander worked like a champ. I couldn't be happier with it.    \\ |
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Posted: 5/8/2024 11:58:23 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Four hours and seven 40-grit discs later, the first sanding is almost complete. I spent some time on the top of all the the intersections that will be under the top, to take down any high spots and make it all as level and flat as possible. I need to get out the triangle-head detail sander and finish up the spots that were too tight for the random orbital (second pic). There were a lot of big chips that had to be removed and sanded down (third pic). I don't expect the other sanding runs to take nearly as long. I sanded everything. The bottom of the feet, the parts of the frame that will be covered with plywood ... everything. I'll keep doing so, too. I like sanding. I always have. My 30-year old B&D random orbital sander worked like a champ. I couldn't be happier with it. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/582146/Bench_after_1st_Sanding_40-grit-3209035.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/582146/Bench_after_1st_Sanding_40-grit_Detail_2-3209033.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/582146/Bench_after_1st_Sanding_40-grit_Detail_1-3209034.jpg\ Will look much better than the hole. |
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MS, USA
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Posted: 5/9/2024 12:31:07 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Four hours and seven 40-grit discs later, the first sanding is almost complete. I spent some time on the top of all the the intersections that will be under the top, to take down any high spots and make it all as level and flat as possible. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/582146/Bench_after_1st_Sanding_40-grit-3209035.jpg You most definitely got your stuff together AND well sorted out sir.  You have much better workmanship skills than you give yourself credit for... |
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Posted: 5/9/2024 12:49:29 AM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Get some wood filler to fill those holes. Let dry, sand off smooth. I like the Minwax that comes in a squeeze tube. Will look much better than the hole. Thanks! I have some Minwax filler in a tub. I'll get right on that as soon as I finish with 40-grit in the small sander for the spots I could get with the larger sander. 1) I should do that before I use the 80-, 120-, and possibly 220-grit, right? 2) I'm also planning to use filler in the screw head countersinks unless there's a reason I shouldn't? |
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Posted: 5/9/2024 12:51:43 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aaron56: You most definitely got your stuff together AND well sorted out sir. You have much better workmanship skills than you give yourself credit for... Thank you very much, sir. You are very kind. I'm kind of surprised it turned out so well. I'm happy with the result even if it took three starts to get it squared away. I need to stay patient while I get the rest done.
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Posted: 5/9/2024 11:48:18 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Thanks! I have some Minwax filler in a tub. I'll get right on that as soon as I finish with 40-grit in the small sander for the spots I could get with the larger sander. 1) I should do that before I use the 80-, 120-, and possibly 220-grit, right? 2) I'm also planning to use filler in the screw head countersinks unless there's a reason I shouldn't? Your filler is fine. Keep lid closed tightly, as filler will dry out fast. Why I like the squeeze tube = no filler loss due to dry out. 2. That is what is normally done on higher end finishes. Fill, dry, sand smooth with 40 grit. One thing to remember before staining, any visible scratch will show through the stain/Poly. Not like build up primer when doing body work on a car. The way I apply stain, starting on the bottom to get the hang of it, brush on a small section, wipe stain around until it's absorbed. No puddles. Repeat. Once stain is done on bottom flip bench over and do the top. Not going to effect the bottom of the legs you will never see. I like to let stain dry overnight and start poly the next day. For you it will be install shelfs, stain shelfs. I would install top last. |
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Posted: 5/9/2024 11:49:12 AM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Thank you very much, sir. You are very kind. I'm kind of surprised it turned out so well. I'm happy with the result even if it took three starts to get it squared away. I need to stay patient while I get the rest done. Now you are past that. 
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Posted: 5/9/2024 2:02:23 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: 1. Filler, then 40 grit. Finer grit takes too long to take it down. Your filler is fine. Keep lid closed tightly, as filler will dry out fast. Why I like the squeeze tube = no filler loss due to dry out. Roger that. Thanks! I should fill in all the cracks and such in the knots too, right? I sanded down the roughest spots with the 40-grit but there are still some places where there are still depressions. I know I could spackle it on using a putty knife but it would cover up the grain of a large enough are to notice. 2. That is what is normally done on higher end finishes. Fill, dry, sand smooth with 40 grit. Check. While my bench may not be worthy of a high-end finish, I'd like to try to give it one so I can learn how to do it.I've painted a gazillion things and maybe stained one, around 1976 or so, LOL. One thing to remember before staining, any visible scratch will show through the stain/Poly. Gotcha. I'll go over it wit a fine tooth comb when I'm putting on the filler. Not like build up primer when doing body work on a car. Which is like using grout on a ceramic tile job to hide minor alignment problems. So stain and poly is like skin-tight clothes, eh? No place to hide. Thanks. The way I apply stain, starting on the bottom to get the hang of it, brush on a small section, wipe stain around until it's absorbed. No puddles. Repeat. Roger, copy. I'm actually looking forward to that step. There's something Chán (Zen) about it that appeals to me. Like sanding. Once stain is done on bottom flip bench over and do the top. Not going to effect the bottom of the legs you will never see. I like to let stain dry overnight and start poly the next day. I should get all the staining done in one session, right? For you it will be install shelfs, stain shelfs. I would install top last. That makes sense, thanks. I'm going to double-layer the bottom shelves with 3/4" ply and melamine, just like the top. And trim the edges of the ply with furring strips like the top. Between that and the additional brace I added on your suggestion, they should be able to hold a bunch of weight. |
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Posted: 5/9/2024 2:05:40 PM EDT
[#12]
I should have sanded some of the lumber before installing it. The space in between the double braces on either side of each leg is too small for my detail sander too. I'm going to try a flap wheel on a drill and if that doesn't work, it will be an old-school sanding block job. It shouldn't be too bad except for that exceptionally dark lumber stamp in the photo above. The darker it is, the deeper it goes.
Oh well, it is what it is. No sense crying when I could just get 'er done.
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Posted: 5/9/2024 4:08:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: dryflash3]
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Originally Posted By dryflash3: 1. Filler, then 40 grit. Finer grit takes too long to take it down. Your filler is fine. Keep lid closed tightly, as filler will dry out fast. Why I like the squeeze tube = no filler loss due to dry out. Roger that. Thanks! I should fill in all the cracks and such in the knots too, right? I sanded down the roughest spots with the 40-grit but there are still some places where there are still depressions. I know I could spackle it on using a putty knife but it would cover up the grain of a large enough are to notice. 2. That is what is normally done on higher end finishes. Fill, dry, sand smooth with 40 grit. Check. While my bench may not be worthy of a high-end finish, I'd like to try to give it one so I can learn how to do it.I've painted a gazillion things and maybe stained one, around 1976 or so, LOL. One thing to remember before staining, any visible scratch will show through the stain/Poly. Gotcha. I'll go over it wit a fine tooth comb when I'm putting on the filler. Not like build up primer when doing body work on a car. Which is like using grout on a ceramic tile job to hide minor alignment problems. So stain and poly is like skin-tight clothes, eh? No place to hide. Thanks. The way I apply stain, starting on the bottom to get the hang of it, brush on a small section, wipe stain around until it's absorbed. No puddles. Repeat. Roger, copy. I'm actually looking forward to that step. There's something Ch n (Zen) about it that appeals to me. Like sanding. Once stain is done on bottom flip bench over and do the top. Not going to effect the bottom of the legs you will never see. I like to let stain dry overnight and start poly the next day. I should get all the staining done in one session, right? For you it will be install shelfs, stain shelfs. I would install top last. That makes sense, thanks. I'm going to double-layer the bottom shelves with 3/4" ply and melamine, just like the top. And trim the edges of the ply with furring strips like the top. Between that and the additional brace I added on your suggestion, they should be able to hold a bunch of weight. You only want filler in the holes. Fill a knot, it will be real noticeable. Experiment on a piece of scrap. Myself I fill them. Where to stop? Do bottom, let dry, do top next time. Just don't stop half way down a board, finish that board. The old "keep a wet edge". Bottom shelfs; 3/4 is overkill. 2 layers is crazy. I would use 3/8 or 1/2 inch, But if all you have is 3/4, use it. One layer, that's why you added the brace. Yes furring strips to hide the plywood/melamine end grain is mandatory on this quality of build. |
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Posted: 5/9/2024 4:12:48 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cascade-Dude: I should have sanded some of the lumber before installing it. The space in between the double braces on either side of each leg is too small for my detail sander too. I'm going to try a flap wheel on a drill and if that doesn't work, it will be an old-school sanding block job. It shouldn't be too bad except for that exceptionally dark lumber stamp in the photo above. The darker it is, the deeper it goes. Oh well, it is what it is. No sense crying when I could just get 'er done. My goal is to do everything 100% perfect. Since I'm not perfect, I normally fall in the 90-95% range. Which is way above average, and that makes me happy. |
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Posted: 5/9/2024 5:26:27 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: You only want filler in the holes. Fill a knot, it will be real noticeable. Experiment on a piece of scrap. Myself I fill them. Where to stop? Do bottom, let dry, do top next time. Just don't stop half way down a board, finish that board. The old "keep a wet edge". Bottom shelfs; 3/4 is overkill. 2 layers is crazy. I would use 3/8 or 1/2 inch, But if all you have is 3/4, use it. One layer, that's why you added the brace. Yes furring strips to hide the plywood/melamine end grain is mandatory on this quality of build. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: You only want filler in the holes. Fill a knot, it will be real noticeable. Experiment on a piece of scrap. Myself I fill them. Where to stop? Do bottom, let dry, do top next time. Just don't stop half way down a board, finish that board. The old "keep a wet edge". Bottom shelfs; 3/4 is overkill. 2 layers is crazy. I would use 3/8 or 1/2 inch, But if all you have is 3/4, use it. One layer, that's why you added the brace. Yes furring strips to hide the plywood/melamine end grain is mandatory on this quality of build. Great information and tips, thanks! I will have more than half the 4' x 8' sheets of both 3/4" and melamine remaining after I make the top, so I have plenty of both. I think I'll use the plywood for it and save the melamine for who-knows-what. It's still a few days down the road but should I finish the furring strips before attaching or after, please? quality of build. High praise indeed. Thank you! |
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Posted: 5/9/2024 9:26:10 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Great information and tips, thanks! I will have more than half the 4' x 8' sheets of both 3/4" and melamine remaining after I make the top, so I have plenty of both. I think I'll use the plywood for it and save the melamine for who-knows-what. It's still a few days down the road but should I finish the furring strips before attaching or after, please? High praise indeed. Thank you! On my bench, after trim was installed, I then stained & poly'd. Masked off the top. |
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Posted: 5/9/2024 9:30:57 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: By finish do you mean stain, or stain and poly? On my bench, after trim was installed, I then stained & poly'd. Masked off the top. I meant both. I'll finish it after its installed. Thanks. :) |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 1:52:29 PM EDT
[#18]
My wife spotted this at Harbor Freight the other day, thought it would be helpful in sorting the mountains of 9mm brass I'm collecting, and went back later to buy it for me as a surprise. Sorting 9mm brass is way down on my to-do list for this month but I think she's right and it will make it easier.
"The love of a good woman is more valuable than all the gold in the world." -- Me. 
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Posted: 5/14/2024 2:14:10 PM EDT
[#19]
I use similar bins for sorting brass and bullets.
 I put a piece of blue masking tape where label goes and label with a sharpie.  Or make labels for a pic. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 2:26:38 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: I use similar bins for sorting brass and bullets. https://i.imgur.com/aYBTalCl.jpg I put a piece of blue masking tape where label goes and label with a sharpie. https://i.imgur.com/r6KaQgSl.jpg Or make labels for a pic. Nice. Very organized. As usual with you. I will do the same, to be sure. |
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Posted: 5/14/2024 3:01:36 PM EDT
[#21]
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Posted: 5/16/2024 10:27:25 AM EDT
[#22]
I've been a bit distracted from reloading to knock out some other projects. I plan to finish my bench next week, get everything organized and set up, and maybe start reloading the week after next.
 
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Posted: 5/16/2024 10:34:03 AM EDT
[#23]
All of the 9mm brass from the most recent haul has been cleaned too. There's even more of it than last time. Maybe more than 6,000 9mm cases.
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Posted: 5/16/2024 1:44:03 PM EDT
[#24]
Target stands are nice. Just don't let new shooters destroy it 'cause they can't stay on the paper.
Voice of experience. |
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Posted: 5/16/2024 2:34:04 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Target stands are nice. Just don't let new shooters destroy it 'cause they can't stay on the paper. Voice of experience. Thanks. That shooter you mentioned may very well be me this weekend when I put one of them out at 300 yards and try to hit it.
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Posted: 5/16/2024 4:48:26 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Target stands are nice. Just don't let new shooters destroy it 'cause they can't stay on the paper. Voice of experience. FYI, I'll also be using them to shoot the rest of the 55 grain VMAX loads you helped me load during training, at 100 yards. So I'll know what to do next to finish developing that load.
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Posted: 5/16/2024 5:43:08 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Cascade-Dude: FYI, I'll also be using them to shoot the rest of the 55 grain VMAX loads you helped me load during training, at 100 yards. So I'll know what to do next to finish developing that load. |
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Posted: 5/16/2024 5:45:30 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: If your rifle is sighted in at 100 yds, you Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: FYI, I'll also be using them to shoot the rest of the 55 grain VMAX loads you helped me load during training, at 100 yards. So I'll know what to do next to finish developing that load. Fixed it. |
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Posted: 5/16/2024 6:52:52 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: If your rifle is sighted in at 100 yds, you will not hit your frames. The first thing I'll be using them for ... is sighting in three sets of MBIUs, two prisms, a red dot, and an LVPO ... at 100 yards. Though I may have access to a gong at 100 yards and could get them close enough to that before switching to my stands. |
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Posted: 5/16/2024 6:53:17 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By cat-mechanic: Fixed it. Ah, you've seen me shoot ...
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