Hello all, just picked up my first M1A. A Scout Squad.

I want to change the top cover to one that does not have a rail. I got a replacement cover already. Do you guys recommend replacing the SA muzzle break to a flash hider?

What tools does one need to do all this? I'm no gunsmith. Mildly handy, but no gunsmith. Should I have a gunsmith do the two changes I am looking for?

Thanks all.

If you change out the muzzle brake is up to you. The only reason I changed mine out was to get threads for a suppressor.

It's an easy enough job, you should be able to do it. The tools you will need are an M14 castle nut pliers, and some allen wrenches. A soft faced mallet is nice, but a block of wood is just fine. There's a set screw that locks the castle nut, take that screw out all the way. The using the castle nut pliers, loosen the nut. Keep loosening it, and it will pull the sight base/brake assembly off for you most of the way. Once it's fully unthreaded the assembly should pull right off the front. If not, some gentle taps with a mallet will get it. Then replace the assembly with the new one. Lightly tap it on, then start the nut, and then back and forth tightening the nut and tapping the assembly until it is fully seated on the barrel. Tighten the nut hand tight, then using the pliers, tighten until the next notch on the castle nut lines up with the set screw. Install the set screw.

As for the rail, I assume you mean the scout scope rail. It's just some allen bolts. Pull the action out of the stock and unbolt it. Installing the new handguard is just snapping it on the barrel, no tools needed.

You can easily get by without specialty tools- brass punch and hammer for the castle nut (after loosening the set screw), padded vise for the gas cylinder, 3/8" box wrench for the gas plug, .30-06 or 8mm case for extractor and ejector removal.
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The flash hider looks a little bit better and won't be quite as loud. I wouldn't go out of my way to replace the brake, though.

You can remove the handguard without removing the muzzle brake and gas system? I thought you had to remove those from the videos on Youtube....

This gent has some pretty good videos on the M1A.

https://www.youtube.com/@tonyben3/search?query=M14

Yes you can. Technically it's safer to remove the gas block and slide them off, but you can pry them off. I haven't damaged one yet, but I wouldn't do that with a high priced handguard either. The new plastic ones like what is on your rifle is tolerant of the little flexing to pry them off.

Shoot it a bit with the muzzle brake in place.  It will kick (recoil) more without the brake.

Muzzle brakes make the rifle a lot louder for everyone on and behind the firing line.  They're not quiet but are a little quieter with the flash hider.

That's the trade off - less recoil but more noise versus more recoil and less noise.

In neither case is the noise tolerable without ear protection due to the short barrel.

This

The muzzle brake works quite well on the M1A. In fact I changed my flash hider for the SA muzzle brake on my M1A-A1 Bush Rifle.

Personally I couldn't tell any difference in muzzle noise between the brake and the flash hider.

See I feel like that the Scout brake is for looks only. The ports are 90 degrees. Most true muzzle brakes that reduce recoil have the ports at 45 degrees angled rearward.

I added a Springfield Armory commercial flash hider to my Bush Rifle.

Note you need the one without the bayonet lug as the lug will get in the way of disassembling the gas piston.

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I started exactly where you did. I bought a Scout Squad. I experimented with the rail but wound up taking it off and installing a solid handguard. I kept the factory muzzle brake for a couple years. It was only when I had to fire my rifle at a critter with no ear protection that I realized how much louder the brake was than a flash hider would’ve been. I swapped out my brake for a flash hider and I’ve never looked back.

The muzzle brake is a true brake and mitigates recoil.  Not all brakes have angled ports, the SEI Navy brake, for example, only has 2 small ports angled forward, the rest are perpendicular to the bore.

Thanks to everyone's advice here, I was able to change the top cover.

But now, the top cover clicks. Like its not fully secured. Not sure if I need to buy another one...

Video of clicking

I'm not sure the handguard is the problem, maybe your old one just hid the problem. A little side to side play at the rear of the handguard is normal as long as it isn't rattle loose. It looks to me your problem is a loose barrel band. That should be held tight by the gas cylinder. The only thing I can think of is your gas cylinder must be loose. Take your gas plug out and see if you can get 1 more rotation on the gas cylinder lock. If you took it off to change the handguard, there's a chance you put that on backwards.

Thank you for your advice. I actually didnt remove the gas block to change it, so didnt take it off at all.

If I do tighten it, do I need to get the tool?

I'm also thinking a loose gas cylinder.

Good news: cylinder shims are $10 from Fulton, easy to install, and a cylinder shim job will tighten up accuracy.

No, at least not to check it. Just take the gas plug out, I think it's a 3/8" hex, any wrench will do. Then you can spin the gas cylinder lock, which is threaded on the barrel. You may or may not be able to get another full rotation from it.

If you can't , you can either try flipping the gas cylinder lock around, sometimes they thread differently on the other side. Or you can get gas cylinder shims.

Shim it.

There are some basic tools that one should have to service an M14.

Gas cylinder wrench
Castle nut pliers  (these are for removing, never tightening)
Gas plug drill bits (for carbon removal) the gas system should be dry, never use grease, oil, or cleaner inside
A USGI cleaning kit is useful (mainly for the combo tool and chamber brush)
A spent 30-06 case is instrumental in bolt disassembly/repair
Handguard retaining clip pliers (nice to have but not necessary)

You are welcome (Everyone that reads this that aren't trolls or spammers) are welcome to check out
www.m14br.com

There is lots of great information on the platform, as well as others here. Really a friendly bunch.

I ran 67 rounds through my scout last weekend at a 2 gun match and feel the factory brake works pretty well!

Super soft shooting with federal m80 ball, and accuracy was fantastic at 100 yards with the scout mount installed sig romeo5!!!

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