User Panel
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I'm no good at telling people what they want to hear when I dont believe it myself :)
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Just stopped down to Allegheny Arms and Gun Works on Saturday to put a downpayment and schedule my paperwork for tomorrow for an OCM5.
I can't wait to complete my Mk12 Mod 0, finally. I've had it built since 2007. |
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Just FYI - I have a Tikka T3x Varmint for sale setup for an AEM5 or OCM5 if anyone is interested.
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Need some advice from the crew. I just had a bbl chopped down (Centurion) by a very reputable company that's been nails in the past for me. Got it back, got everything together...end cap strike (77gr IMI). The baffles look fine but it visibly clipped the end cap.
I've tried: Same mount + can on an uncut DD: good. Same mount + can on an uncut BA Hansen: good Am I going crazy to point the finger at the thread/shoulder being non-concentric? I'll reach out to the folks who did the work but curious to see if anyone has other ideas. |
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Originally Posted By bigbore: Try a different bullet. Suppressors get end cap strikes. It's going to happen. All of my suppressors have them. The barrel could be perfectly concentric. What can and mount are you using? View Quote To be clear I don't care at all about the cosmetics, but I need to figure out what's what. If it shot I'd go on my merry way. Attached File Can is an OCM5 using their OTB mount. I have used this exact setup on a BRT barrel for probably 2k or so rounds this year, zero issues. Also checked it on two other barrels with a rod, dead nuts centered I put a different can on the offending upper. It shows the same bias towards 5 o'clock. It clears this can but only due to the larger bore size. Attached File |
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I sell people a means to defend themselves.
UT, USA
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Originally Posted By 135Patriots: I fired a 10 shot group - 5 7GRs, 5 55gr ball rounds. The rifle wont zero right now, it's 5+ feet off and I'm out of windage. I assume that is due to the end cap strike(s). I stopped when I realized how far off it was and saw the "damage". I took the can off and with the bare break it shot just fine. To be clear I don't care at all about the cosmetics, but I need to figure out what's what. If it shot I'd go on my merry way. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/487230/1000009476_jpg-3356995.JPG Can is an OCM5 using their OTB mount. I have used this exact setup on a BRT barrel for probably 2k or so rounds this year, zero issues. Also checked it on two other barrels with a rod, dead nuts centered I put a different can on the offending upper. It shows the same bias towards 5 o'clock. It clears this can but only due to the larger bore size. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/487230/1000009480_jpg-3356993.JPG View Quote Sounds like an OCL problem not an AE problem. |
Originally Posted By bradpierson26:
So I know you're a SF whore . . . . . |
Originally Posted By 135Patriots: I fired a 10 shot group - 5 7GRs, 5 55gr ball rounds. The rifle wont zero right now, it's 5+ feet off and I'm out of windage. I assume that is due to the end cap strike(s). I stopped when I realized how far off it was and saw the "damage". I took the can off and with the bare break it shot just fine. To be clear I don't care at all about the cosmetics, but I need to figure out what's what. If it shot I'd go on my merry way. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/487230/1000009476_jpg-3356995.JPG Can is an OCM5 using their OTB mount. I have used this exact setup on a BRT barrel for probably 2k or so rounds this year, zero issues. Also checked it on two other barrels with a rod, dead nuts centered I put a different can on the offending upper. It shows the same bias towards 5 o'clock. It clears this can but only due to the larger bore size. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/487230/1000009480_jpg-3356993.JPG View Quote Your barrel just might be a dud. The end cap strike isn’t causing your shots to be 5+ feet off. I can swap my 16th for my AEM2 back and forth between rifles and there is zero shift in poa/poi. |
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I'm no good at telling people what they want to hear when I dont believe it myself :)
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Oh I’m sorry, I thought this was America!
MI, USA
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Originally Posted By TheTacticalCoyote: Sounds like an OCL problem not an AE problem. View Quote This! There’s a reason that AE cans use the over barrel collar AND brake to align their cans. Those OTB mounts don’t give you the same affect and are nothing but a shitty short cut. Use the can the way it was designed and has held the test of time. |
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Originally Posted By Rothperson87: This! There's a reason that AE cans use the over barrel collar AND brake to align their cans. Those OTB mounts don't give you the same affect and are nothing but a shitty short cut. Use the can the way it was designed and has held the test of time. View Quote |
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Originally Posted By 135Patriots: I fired a 10 shot group - 5 7GRs, 5 55gr ball rounds. The rifle wont zero right now, it's 5+ feet off and I'm out of windage. I assume that is due to the end cap strike(s). I stopped when I realized how far off it was and saw the "damage". I took the can off and with the bare break it shot just fine. To be clear I don't care at all about the cosmetics, but I need to figure out what's what. If it shot I'd go on my merry way. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/487230/1000009476_jpg-3356995.JPG Can is an OCM5 using their OTB mount. I have used this exact setup on a BRT barrel for probably 2k or so rounds this year, zero issues. Also checked it on two other barrels with a rod, dead nuts centered I put a different can on the offending upper. It shows the same bias towards 5 o'clock. It clears this can but only due to the larger bore size. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/487230/1000009480_jpg-3356993.JPG View Quote Is this the same barrel you talked about in the Mini Recce thread? If so, I thought you had figured out the threads weren't concentric? I had the barrel for my Gordy cut down by the same person and had the same alignment issues. I sent it back to him and he reworked the threads. All is good with mine now. EDIT: Reread your post. Looks like this is a different barrel. Same person cut this one down? |
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Originally Posted By 135Patriots: I fired a 10 shot group - 5 7GRs, 5 55gr ball rounds. The rifle wont zero right now, it's 5+ feet off and I'm out of windage. I assume that is due to the end cap strike(s). I stopped when I realized how far off it was and saw the "damage". I took the can off and with the bare break it shot just fine. To be clear I don't care at all about the cosmetics, but I need to figure out what's what. If it shot I'd go on my merry way. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/487230/1000009476_jpg-3356995.JPG Can is an OCM5 using their OTB mount. I have used this exact setup on a BRT barrel for probably 2k or so rounds this year, zero issues. Also checked it on two other barrels with a rod, dead nuts centered I put a different can on the offending upper. It shows the same bias towards 5 o'clock. It clears this can but only due to the larger bore size. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/487230/1000009480_jpg-3356993.JPG View Quote |
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Collector, historian, and enthusiast of A.R.M.S. rails, mounts, and accessories.
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Originally Posted By cdholmes: Is this the same barrel you talked about in the Mini Recce thread? If so, I thought you had figured out the threads weren't concentric? I had the barrel for my Gordy cut down by the same person and had the same alignment issues. I sent it back to him and he reworked the threads. All is good with mine now. EDIT: Reread your post. Looks like this is a different barrel. Same person cut this one down? View Quote Who is doing this work that everyone is having trouble with? No one has contacted me, so can you guys confirm it's not me? |
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I'm no good at telling people what they want to hear when I dont believe it myself :)
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Not a Tennessee Squire
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Originally Posted By bigbore: Do a custom build with a pre-64 Model 70 action. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/12678/20230807_123026-2911832.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By bigbore: Originally Posted By cdholmes: I was just looking at bolt actions to host my AEM5 .30 Cal. Does anyone have any recommendations? Do a custom build with a pre-64 Model 70 action. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/12678/20230807_123026-2911832.jpg Do you contour and thread (receiver and muzzle 11/16x24) barrel blanks? |
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Originally Posted By bigbore: Who is doing this work that everyone is having trouble with? No one has contacted me, so can you guys confirm it's not me? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By bigbore: Who is doing this work that everyone is having trouble with? No one has contacted me, so can you guys confirm it's not me? I took everything apart last night, cleaned all the surfaces, and removed the accu-washer to try and eliminate confounding variables. Will take it out again before I reach out to yall - I'm totally open to the issue not being the thread job. Originally Posted By thatARMSguy: Email the OCM guys, they should be able to help fix the end cap if you want. In the future, stick to separate brakes and collars. Single piece mounts have problems on the Ops system, been like that since the very beginning If this is a 100% AEM thread I'll ping ADCO offline and bow out. Not my intention to get into an AE vs OCL debate, zero interest in that. ETA here's the rifle to lighten the mood. I think it'll be pretty cool when it's all buttoned up Attached File |
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Originally Posted By 135Patriots: This particular barrel was ADCO. I want to be clear: this isn't me whining or throwing anyone under the bus. ADCO has done more complex work for me with excellent results, as has RAW. I took everything apart last night, cleaned all the surfaces, and removed the accu-washer to try and eliminate confounding variables. Will take it out again before I reach out to yall - I'm totally open to the issue not being the thread job. I don't care about the end cap it's just a ding. It's all good. What I do care about is that for whatever reason, this setup (which has worked flawlessly for a lot of rounds/time) is suddenly out of whack. The only independent variable is a newly chopped barrel. If this is a 100% AEM thread I'll ping ADCO offline and bow out. Not my intention to get into an AE vs OCL debate, zero interest in that. ETA here's the rifle to lighten the mood. I think it'll be pretty cool when it's all buttoned up https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/487230/1000009483_jpg-3357391.JPG View Quote Neither here nor there, but scopes break too. Before you get too far into tearing the rifle apart, is run a box test on that scope at 25 yards with a bare muzzle. |
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Originally Posted By 135Patriots: This particular barrel was ADCO. I want to be clear: this isn't me whining or throwing anyone under the bus. ADCO has done more complex work for me with excellent results, as has RAW. I took everything apart last night, cleaned all the surfaces, and removed the accu-washer to try and eliminate confounding variables. Will take it out again before I reach out to yall - I'm totally open to the issue not being the thread job. I don't care about the end cap it's just a ding. It's all good. What I do care about is that for whatever reason, this setup (which has worked flawlessly for a lot of rounds/time) is suddenly out of whack. The only independent variable is a newly chopped barrel. If this is a 100% AEM thread I'll ping ADCO offline and bow out. Not my intention to get into an AE vs OCL debate, zero interest in that. ETA here's the rifle to lighten the mood. I think it'll be pretty cool when it's all buttoned up https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/487230/1000009483_jpg-3357391.JPG View Quote There is only 1 way to confirm the threads are good, and that's with a lathe and a pin gauge. Shoot me an email with your order number. A bad thread job will be a few inches of POA/POI shift. An endcap strike like yours wouldn't be anything noticeable. |
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I'm no good at telling people what they want to hear when I dont believe it myself :)
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I'm no good at telling people what they want to hear when I dont believe it myself :)
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Originally Posted By bigbore: There is only 1 way to confirm the threads are good, and that's with a lathe and a pin gauge. Shoot me an email with your order number. A bad thread job will be a few inches of POA/POI shift. An endcap strike like yours wouldn't be anything noticeable. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By bigbore: There is only 1 way to confirm the threads are good, and that's with a lathe and a pin gauge. Shoot me an email with your order number. A bad thread job will be a few inches of POA/POI shift. An endcap strike like yours wouldn't be anything noticeable. Originally Posted By elmidgeto: Neither here nor there, but scopes break too. Before you get too far into tearing the rifle apart, is run a box test on that scope at 25 yards with a bare muzzle. |
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Originally Posted By 135Patriots: That all tracks to me and I have no concerns about yall helping if needed. Let me take it out one more time to get more sample size. If it's still fighting me, I'll email you. Thanks! I took the can off and the crazy poa/poi dissappeared. I don't believe it's the glass. View Quote Humor me here. I have no idea who you are or what your order number is. I spoke to my machinist and asked if he had seen any funky stuff lately. He said the barrel of the guy who wanted 1.2" chopped off had an OD so far off center it was memorable. Was that you? That wouldn't matter, but if you have an over the barrel mount and its touching that off center OD, that could be an issue. To keep this on topic for OPS INC, here's an old real MK12 vid with one of the first Geissele SSF triggers. SPR with OPS INC silencer This is why I dont like the Gordon adapters or any contour that isn't cut with the threads. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/SciftLfCD_E |
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I'm no good at telling people what they want to hear when I dont believe it myself :)
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Originally Posted By bigbore: Humor me here. I have no idea who you are or what your order number is. I spoke to my machinist and asked if he had seen any funky stuff lately. He said the barrel of the guy who wanted 1.2" chopped off had an OD so far off center it was memorable. Was that you? That wouldn't matter, but if you have an over the barrel mount and its touching that off center OD, that could be an issue. To keep this on topic for OPS INC, here's an old real MK12 vid with one of the first Geissele SSF triggers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHQBdttrqa0 This is why I dont like the Gordon adapters or any contour that isn't cut with the threads. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/SciftLfCD_E View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By bigbore: Originally Posted By 135Patriots: That all tracks to me and I have no concerns about yall helping if needed. Let me take it out one more time to get more sample size. If it's still fighting me, I'll email you. Thanks! I took the can off and the crazy poa/poi dissappeared. I don't believe it's the glass. Humor me here. I have no idea who you are or what your order number is. I spoke to my machinist and asked if he had seen any funky stuff lately. He said the barrel of the guy who wanted 1.2" chopped off had an OD so far off center it was memorable. Was that you? That wouldn't matter, but if you have an over the barrel mount and its touching that off center OD, that could be an issue. To keep this on topic for OPS INC, here's an old real MK12 vid with one of the first Geissele SSF triggers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHQBdttrqa0 This is why I dont like the Gordon adapters or any contour that isn't cut with the threads. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/SciftLfCD_E |
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I bought all this equipment. What do you mean that the dead AREN'T coming back to life?
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It isn't widely known outside precision rifle circles, but the bore is often not centered in the barrel and this is worse in the middle of the tube. If you cut a long barrel down, you often end up with a barrel that has a bore well off center. Additionally, the bore may not be parallel to the OD which ends up with the bullets exiting on a trajectory that would intersect a line that is parallel to the outside of the tube...
This is worse with low cost tubes. I would bet that your bore is not centered in the barrel and likely launches bullets on an intercept trajectory to the outside diameter of the barrel. |
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Originally Posted By FedDC: It isn't widely known outside precision rifle circles, but the bore is often not centered in the barrel and this is worse in the middle of the tube. If you cut a long barrel down, you often end up with a barrel that has a bore well off center. Additionally, the bore may not be parallel to the OD which ends up with the bullets exiting on a trajectory that would intersect a line that is parallel to the outside of the tube... This is worse with low cost tubes. I would bet that your bore is not centered in the barrel and likely launches bullets on an intercept trajectory to the outside diameter of the barrel. View Quote Now ask me why I will never use an alignment rod. https://youtube.com/shorts/EPsf_6nyyAQ |
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I'm no good at telling people what they want to hear when I dont believe it myself :)
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Oh I’m sorry, I thought this was America!
MI, USA
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Originally Posted By 135Patriots: This particular barrel was ADCO. I want to be clear: this isn't me whining or throwing anyone under the bus. ADCO has done more complex work for me with excellent results, as has RAW. I took everything apart last night, cleaned all the surfaces, and removed the accu-washer to try and eliminate confounding variables. Will take it out again before I reach out to yall - I'm totally open to the issue not being the thread job. I don't care about the end cap it's just a ding. It's all good. What I do care about is that for whatever reason, this setup (which has worked flawlessly for a lot of rounds/time) is suddenly out of whack. The only independent variable is a newly chopped barrel. If this is a 100% AEM thread I'll ping ADCO offline and bow out. Not my intention to get into an AE vs OCL debate, zero interest in that. ETA here's the rifle to lighten the mood. I think it'll be pretty cool when it's all buttoned up https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/487230/1000009483_jpg-3357391.JPG View Quote |
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Oh I’m sorry, I thought this was America!
MI, USA
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Originally Posted By 135Patriots: This particular barrel was ADCO. I want to be clear: this isn't me whining or throwing anyone under the bus. ADCO has done more complex work for me with excellent results, as has RAW. I took everything apart last night, cleaned all the surfaces, and removed the accu-washer to try and eliminate confounding variables. Will take it out again before I reach out to yall - I'm totally open to the issue not being the thread job. I don't care about the end cap it's just a ding. It's all good. What I do care about is that for whatever reason, this setup (which has worked flawlessly for a lot of rounds/time) is suddenly out of whack. The only independent variable is a newly chopped barrel. If this is a 100% AEM thread I'll ping ADCO offline and bow out. Not my intention to get into an AE vs OCL debate, zero interest in that. ETA here's the rifle to lighten the mood. I think it'll be pretty cool when it's all buttoned up https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/487230/1000009483_jpg-3357391.JPG View Quote Nobody’s trying to debate you on this but you’re not using the can as it was originally designed by using those OTB mounts. The can was designed to go over the barrel with 2 points of contact, one being behind the muzzle to help ensure alignment with the barrel itself. The OTB mount does not do this. I’m not saying you will never get end cap strikes mounting it the correct way but there is a reason the bore size on AE cans is smaller than most other suppressors. That’s because of the mounting system. |
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Originally Posted By bigbore: Now ask me why I will never use an alignment rod. https://youtube.com/shorts/EPsf_6nyyAQ View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By bigbore: Originally Posted By FedDC: It isn't widely known outside precision rifle circles, but the bore is often not centered in the barrel and this is worse in the middle of the tube. If you cut a long barrel down, you often end up with a barrel that has a bore well off center. Additionally, the bore may not be parallel to the OD which ends up with the bullets exiting on a trajectory that would intersect a line that is parallel to the outside of the tube... This is worse with low cost tubes. I would bet that your bore is not centered in the barrel and likely launches bullets on an intercept trajectory to the outside diameter of the barrel. Now ask me why I will never use an alignment rod. https://youtube.com/shorts/EPsf_6nyyAQ Long stem indicator and someone who knows how to run a lathe down to the .000s. Its the only way to truly be sure. I hate to say it...because it means I have to send work to gunsmiths instead of grabbing some locktite and a wrench in my garage...but it is what it is once you understand deep hole drilling and how massively banana shaped a lot of barrels are, both inside and outside. Someone should do a thread like they have done over at the hide on barrels being cut down from 32 inches to about 10 inches while measuring the diameter between bore and the outside of barrel, 360deg around. Its shocking how much the drill wanders and how inconsistent the bore is compared to the OD of the barrel. |
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I just did a 2" cut down on a Proof 6mm for a customer and after parting, the ID vs OD was out around .006". After I got it re-zeroed to within .0002", threaded and profiled, I tried an alignment rod and looked like it was going to be within .005 of a cap strike. Looking down the bore, you should be able to see the end cap if it were that close but I couldn't so it had to be a wonkey bore. Oddly enough, I've also done $60 Bear Creek barrels that seemed to be almost dead nuts ID vs OD (like within .001) over 4-6" inches so you really never know what you're going to deal with until you start making chips.
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"Here's to gunpowder and pussy; live by one, die by the other, love the smell of both."
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Originally Posted By bigbore: Try a different bullet. Suppressors get end cap strikes. It's going to happen. All of my suppressors have them. The barrel could be perfectly concentric. What can and mount are you using? ETA: PMC 77gr took a chunk out of my 16th model recently. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/12678/endcap-3227080-3356977.jpg My almost 20yr old M24. A couple times I took a hammer and file to the end cap. Still works as good as new. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/12678/20231127_104112-3041966.jpg View Quote Do those end cap strikes affect the accuracy? |
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I'm no good at telling people what they want to hear when I dont believe it myself :)
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Originally Posted By Nobody69s: Interesting. Thanks. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By Nobody69s: Originally Posted By bigbore: Not at all. Thanks. LOL, I mean, the bullet that struck the end cap ain't going to be accurate But the ones after it should be fine. |
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Originally Posted By SpyHawk: LOL, I mean, the bullet that struck the end cap ain't going to be accurate But the ones after it should be fine. View Quote I mainly meant after the fact, like a permanent lack of accuracy because of the geometry of the end cap has changed. |
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After the hoopla I went through having the AEM5 collar taper machined directly into the barrel profile I’ll probably not try it again. It’s a neat thought, but between curvy bores and gunsmiths I don’t trust anyone.
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Years ago I made a suppressor and collar for a Barrett. We sent it off for testing and someone thought it would be funny to unscrew it, but leave it on the barrel. Knocked the shooter for a loop
and nearly made a figure eight in the end cap. Screwed it back on and still shot and functioned fine. The strikes rarely affect accuracy. |
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Is the collar for the AEM5 supposed to be a sung fit? Mine slides right on with no resistance. The barrel is a Douglas 18" SPR that was spun up by CLE back in 2013.
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I now have a ban button. Want to see me use it? Keep it up. - Lancelot
You do not fight out of hate, but rather out of the love and compassion you have for those you are trying to protect. |
I'm no good at telling people what they want to hear when I dont believe it myself :)
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I now have a ban button. Want to see me use it? Keep it up. - Lancelot
You do not fight out of hate, but rather out of the love and compassion you have for those you are trying to protect. |
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Originally Posted By StevethePirate: Got my AEM3 in last week to go with the custom collars Ron made up for me (thanks again, Ron!). https://i.postimg.cc/pdqnM12F/mk12-1.jpg View Quote What stock is that? Looks slick. |
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Collector, historian, and enthusiast of A.R.M.S. rails, mounts, and accessories.
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Originally Posted By StevethePirate: Yep, it's a LWRCI UCIW stock on an A5 tube. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Originally Posted By StevethePirate: Originally Posted By towerofpower94: What stock is that? Looks slick. Yep, it's a LWRCI UCIW stock on an A5 tube. Thanks to both of you. Looks like a tight minimalist stock. |
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Ive been dreaming up a 6ARC AEM5-30k set up and I need some help figuring out if its even possible. Rosco makes a 14.5" Noveske Intermediate length 6ARC barrel. I know that's too short for a brake/collar. But I have been seeing Allegheny Arms tapered gas blocks pop up on some builds and it has me wondering.
Allegheny lists 16.5" as the length needed for a Rifle gas setup with their 1.100" long block. 14.5" is obviously 2" shorter. Noveske Intermediate is 1.475" shorter than Rifle length using the gas tube lengths for reference. With the 0.880" block and an ADCO 0.25" KAC NT4 spacer to scoot the muzzle device forward, I'm getting 1.945" shorter than 16.5" would work, or 14.555" barrel length. I imagine a shim ought to get me that last bit of length. What say the hive mind. Does my math here track? Do y'all think its doable/worth trying or should I look at alternatives instead. |
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Originally Posted By ARgunner0210: Ive been dreaming up a 6ARC AEM5-30k set up and I need some help figuring out if its even possible. Rosco makes a 14.5" Noveske Intermediate length 6ARC barrel. I know that's too short for a brake/collar. But I have been seeing Allegheny Arms tapered gas blocks pop up on some builds and it has me wondering. Allegheny lists 16.5" as the length needed for a Rifle gas setup with their 1.100" long block. 14.5" is obviously 2" shorter. Noveske Intermediate is 1.475" shorter than Rifle length using the gas tube lengths for reference. With the 0.880" block and an ADCO 0.25" KAC NT4 spacer to scoot the muzzle device forward, I'm getting 1.945" shorter than 16.5" would work, or 14.555" barrel length. I imagine a shim ought to get me that last bit of length. What say the hive mind. Does my math here track? Do y'all think its doable/worth trying or should I look at alternatives instead. View Quote Alternatives. Call up Craddock Precision. Buy a custom length/contour 6ARC RTR barrel. It will cost ~$400. Joshua will make your setup work with what you have in mind. It’ll be closer to 15” on a mid length gas. You can ship the Allegheny gas block direct to him. Do it right, don’t shim. The CP barrel will shoot. |
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
What he said. Let them know the look you're after and send them whatever block works best with your rail. They'll handle the rest. To work with the .880 block and an A mount can, you need approximately 3.5" from the gas port to the muzzle so you'll be over an inch too long using a 14.5" barrel |
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"Here's to gunpowder and pussy; live by one, die by the other, love the smell of both."
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Any pics of AEM5s tucked into handguards? Thinking about building a 300BLK for my AEM5-30K.
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