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SMSLaser HFXC (Page 1 of 6)
Posted: 11/28/2024 11:04:29 PM EDT
So, the latest and greatest contender for "budget durable MFAL" is the SMSLaser HFXC. Starting a new thread because I think it might be a real contender. The HFXC is the follow-on to SMSLaser's XK68IR (which I reviewed here). The XK68IR was what I'd call a nice hack that had a stupendously powerful and floody IR illuminator, but sorta missed the mark on being a good MFAL. To their credit, SMSLaser seems to have designed a totally new 4-in-1 MFAL called the HFXC. Pricing is $235. The claimed feature list, which I have stolen from the website and re-written slightly is as follows: 1. Slaved green and IR lasers (supposedly 30mw each!!!) - claimed to keep zero up to 7.62x39. 2. 1k lumen, 80k candela (!) white light 3. 80mw IR illuminator focusable from 17mrad to 120 mrad 4. Anodized aluminum construction 5. Low and high power modes, with low as default 6. Crane plug for remote switch 7. Removable 18500 lithium battery 8. Picatinny rail mount 10. IP67 waterproof 11. Dimensions(in): 4(L)*2.16(W)*1.18(H) 12. Weight: 8.4oz weight (for comparison, a PEQ-16 is 9.9oz) Obviously, I'm going to take all of that with a grain of salt. But the package as described is compelling. Most white lights integrated into solutions like this are garbage floody lights. If this is really 80k candela, that's going to be far more concentrated and useful. That said, 1k lumens and 80k candela is pretty insane performance (a Modlite OKW, for reference, only does 60k candela and 680 lumens; this is more comparable to a REIN 2.0/3.0 in terms of raw specs), and it's a little hard to believe they're going to deliver on that with a $235 package. The focus on the IR illuminator should be very useful, and the power levels on the illuminators and lasers are well in excess of what most people are really going to use. (Looking at the pictures, it also appears you'll be able to adjust the illuminators to the lasers like you can on a PEQ-15). Someone (not me) got one on reddit, and posted some NV video: https://www.reddit.com/r/NightVision/comments/1gyi2za/sms_laser_hfxc_update_post_shooting_trip/ I have a review unit coming, so I'm looking forward to taking it out and giving my own impressions. Anyone else got one yet? |
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Originally Posted By erwos: What's your hot take on the WL? Is it really on par with the OKW / CD REIN? I don’t have either of those lights, so can’t say. To make a comparison video, as far as white light, I have some Surefire and Streamlight weapon lights on the "USA-common use" end of things to compare to. I have some Olight weapon lights on the "China-modern use" end of things to compare to. I figured I'd use compact white lights to compare with, because I want to keep in a reasonable size comparison with the light you'd get with most MFALs, not a huge honkin' standalone torch. So things like a Streamlight TLR-8G, Surefire Mini-3V Scout, Olight PL-3R, etc. As far as lasers (visible and IR), I figured I’d bookend comparisons (inexpensive / midrange / expensive). So I'll shoot some video using: • A real full power DBAL to compare on the "USA/legit end", vs • A cheap Toughsoul TF-9069 MFAL on the "China/Amazon-toy end", vs. • SMS's new interesting comer to the “Midline / legit-not-knockoff / but still China end” market segments. (I usually like to toss in my dedicated Streamlight SuperTac IR torch for comparisons too, because that thing was like $90 bucks, blazes bright and clear and has great long throw to 300 or so. It’s been my legacy/go-to hog light for years, so I like to see how it compares.) |
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Originally Posted By KC-ROUGHNECK: Does the fire button have a momentary on "mode?" Their remote tape switch has two buttons: I believe the back button is pressure/momentary-only. Whereas the front button you can hold down until it clicks and it stays on. (I am left-handed and the switch on the unit hangs pretty far over the gun away from my ejection port side/rail thumb, so I’ve just been using the tape switch). The switch on the unit body operates like this: • Short press is on-off. (Click once, it stays on until you tap the button again). • Long-press and it operates momentary. (Press button, hold down and light/laser stays on as long as your switch is pressed. Lift off of switch, light/laser goes off.) |
| I have one. The green laser is bright as hell, like a literal light saber. The laser illuminator is able to be focused down as tightly as the aiming laser, which is kind of cool and could allow you to have a dual zero in a sense. The white light is basically as bright as my Cloud Defensive OWL. For $200 it is pretty decent. Haven't shot with it yet. |
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Originally Posted By kel: Their remote tape switch has two buttons: I believe the back button is pressure/momentary-only. Whereas the front button you can hold down until it clicks and it stays on. (I am left-handed and the switch on the unit hangs pretty far over the gun away from my ejection port side/rail thumb, so I’ve just been using the tape switch). The switch on the unit body operates like this: • Short press is on-off. (Click once, it stays on until you tap the button again). • Long-press and it operates momentary. (Press button, hold down and light/laser stays on as long as your switch is pressed. Lift off of switch, light/laser goes off.) Thank you good sir. |
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Originally Posted By shenendoah_rifleman: The specs look amazing, but I'm prepared to be disappointed! Please tell me "18500 battery" is a typo and this takes normal 18650s? As far as I'm aware, it's not a typo. I think everyone would have preferred 18650; perhaps they'll eventually come out with a longer battery cap or something. |
| To make the unit shorter, they used the 18500 battery. SMS told me that they are doing a longer endcap to fit 18650s though. If they come through on that, best of both worlds, I guess. I don't mind the shorter footprint as long as the batteries aren't proprietary. I looked around and it seems like they're not too hard to find at retailers. |
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Originally Posted By shenendoah_rifleman: The specs look amazing, but I'm prepared to be disappointed! Please tell me "18500 battery" is a typo and this takes normal 18650s? It is indeed an 18500, but it would be very easy for them to make an 18650 extension for the battery cap, if not just a whole new cap. |
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Originally Posted By shenendoah_rifleman: How high does it sit on the rail? I'm hoping for something that won't obscure the picture of my 2.5x mounted at 1.57" Anyone tried other crane switches to see if they executed that correctly?    The last one isn't a great angle, but it doesn't obstruct much. My Unity hot button snaps in securely and works great. |
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Well I just did the return paperwork on my gl4 pro and will buy this thing. My reasons are pretty simple the focus able illumination, the gl4 is really crappy on the ir flood. I do admit I really don't like the way they did the offset, just looks terrible. But mounting it on the right side on a mlok rail should have it pretty even with the top of the top rail. The use the pad to turn it on and off. |
"I am gonna laugh my ass off looking out the air vent of the box car watching some of you shot in the head in a ditch when you finally realize it's time to resist." stolen from RR_broccoli
| Use code smssl5 for 5% off. Found it on a YouTube vid. Brings the order to 200.92 if you do the preorder thing now. I’ve been keeping an eye on reviews for this thing for a few weeks and I’ve seen nothing but positive and it seems like a no brainer for 200 bucks, hope it holds. |
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In before we have 30 pages saying how awesome it is, followed by someone that actually shoots it and let's us now it doesn't hold zero. Then another ten pages with people defending that it kind of holds zero sometimes. I hope I'm wrong because it would be kick ass to get something like this at this price. But we've been down this road a few times already. |
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Originally Posted By StaccatoC2: I do admit I really don't like the way they did the offset, just looks terrible. But mounting it on the right side on a mlok rail should have it pretty even with the top of the top rail. The use the pad to turn it on and off. The offset is a positive imo. You don't have to adjust for windage and elevation at range this way. Just elevation. They should all keep the laser in line eith the bore. |
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Originally Posted By FoxValleyTacDriver: In before we have 30 pages saying how awesome it is, followed by someone that actually shoots it and let's us now it doesn't hold zero. Then another ten pages with people defending that it kind of holds zero sometimes. I hope I'm wrong because it would be kick ass to get something like this at this price. But we've been down this road a few times already. To be fair, this is how nearly every thread about anything gun-related goes. Bunch of hype, followed by reality hitting one way or the other. As it goes, this thread is pretty reasonable so far. Only so much you can expect for $200. |
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Originally Posted By FoxValleyTacDriver: The offset is a positive imo. You don't have to adjust for windage and elevation at range this way. Just elevation. They should all keep the laser in line eith the bore. The offset allows a fairly natural way to hit the fire button. I hadn't been running a remote switch, but I put one on last night to try out the function of it and ended up leaving it on. It tucked under the side pretty well, which keeps it fairly out of the way when I go for the top mounted fire button to put it in constant on. 
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Originally Posted By FoxValleyTacDriver: The offset is a positive imo. You don't have to adjust for windage and elevation at range this way. Just elevation. They should all keep the laser in line eith the bore. I understand the positive of being in line with the bore. But if I zero something that is 1 inch to the right or left ( and nothing it that far offset ) at 100 yards that means at 200 its one inch to the other side. I would bet no one could even see where the Lazer is well enough at 200 yards to even tell. |
"I am gonna laugh my ass off looking out the air vent of the box car watching some of you shot in the head in a ditch when you finally realize it's time to resist." stolen from RR_broccoli
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Well I pulled the trigger! Could someone tell me if this includes a battery or do I need to pick up a couple 18500s? Even if this thing can't hold zero I think it will a good buy, provided it doesn't fall apart in use. It is only 3oz or so heavier than a scout light and lighter than a white light plus separate IR light, while being a full powered laser illuminator. |
I needed to buy myself a $200 laser right at Christmas shopping time. Yeah, really, I did.
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"It is better by noble boldness to run the risk of being subject to half the evils we anticipate than to remain in cowardly listlessness for fear of what might happen." ~ Herodotus
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Originally Posted By shenendoah_rifleman: https://m.youtube.com/shorts/AwRi6tSiXT4 1st report of an issue ive seen, looks like the screws that secure the picatinny clamp to the body loosened up. May be a good idea to loctite them before mounting? Given the mount design, I'd say that's not shocking at 800 rounds. (We also don't know how much torque he used to begin with.) I know you've got to cut costs somewhere but using high strength torx screws pre-loctited with an actual torque spec would be a good improvement for a next version of this. |
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Originally Posted By StaccatoC2: I understand the positive of being in line with the bore. But if I zero something that is 1 inch to the right or left ( and nothing it that far offset ) at 100 yards that means at 200 its one inch to the other side. I would bet no one could even see where the Lazer is well enough at 200 yards to even tell. My range goes out to 600 yards and I can see the laser fine at that distance. I've even snapped shots out there and hit my gong holding high and left with my dbal. Point is it can eliminate a variable so why not. There's no negative to it. People hated this thing because it was offset. Attached File Attached File Anyways I want to see a video of someone drop testing this thing. |
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Originally Posted By FoxValleyTacDriver: My range goes out to 600 yards and I can see the laser fine at that distance. I've even snapped shots out there and hit my gong holding high and left with my dbal. Point is it can eliminate a variable so why not. There's no negative to it. People hated this thing because it was offset. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/285899/1000017135_jpg-3397668.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/285899/1000016665_jpg-3397670.JPG Anyways I want to see a video of someone drop testing this thing. Well learn something new every day. Never heard of the D-EVO before |
"Life is Hard, its Harder if You're Stupid" - John Wayne
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Originally Posted By shenendoah_rifleman: https://m.youtube.com/shorts/AwRi6tSiXT4 1st report of an issue ive seen, looks like the screws that secure the picatinny clamp to the body loosened up. May be a good idea to loctite them before mounting? That YouTube link shows the old model, not the HFXC. |
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Originally Posted By shenendoah_rifleman: Comparing pictures the hfxc pic clamp is a different setup so no reason to assume it would inherit this weakness. Yeah, they addressed that on their Instagram. Totally different, built-in rail clamp vs. the "bolt on" arrangement in their earlier lasers. (One thing is seems SMS has going for them is their willingness to jump quick to make improvements and respond to user feedback.) Here's a video that shows the bottom of the unit and the two crossbolts/recoil lug is integral to the housing:  HFXC from SMS Laser – Can a cheap MFAL be original and good? |
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Originally Posted By laxman09: Well learn something new every day. Never heard of the D-EVO before Yeah that one's mine. Very interesting optic. I'll keep checking on this thread. If you guys still aren't reporting issues maybe I'll get one to play with. First thing I'd do is like lock it in a tripod on the rifle. Green laser on. And then give some progressive smacks to the optic with a rubber mallet. First lightly. Then harder. See if it holds zero. |
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Originally Posted By FoxValleyTacDriver: First thing I'd do is like lock it in a tripod on the rifle. Green laser on. And then give some progressive smacks to the optic with a rubber mallet. First lightly. Then harder. See if it holds zero. Not the same as real world doing it oneself, but they showed their recoil testing platform on Instagram Poundtown [instagram]www.instagram.com/smslaserofficial/p/DBjmMMESTpD/?img_index=1[/instagram] |
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Mine came today. Haven't used it on a gun yet. Quick impressions: 1. Remote switch is slightly flimsy, but I like that it can direct mount to MLOK. Usable enough until I procure a Modbutton or Axon SL, anyways. 2. The crane port looks solid. 3. The white light is definitely not 80k candela, even in high power mode (which I made sure to enable). I compared it to a variety of lights (including a PLHv2, TLR-1 HL, GL4 Pro, etc.), and I'd say it's probably more like 30-40k candela. It's not as hot-spotty as a PLHv2. That is actually perfectly acceptable for most uses, and it was considerably better than my TLR-1 HL (20k candela). I would guess that reflector depth is the limiting factor here. Jury's out on flood, but it didn't seem excessive. 4. Vis laser looks pretty smoking power wise. 5. Overall unit has a solid look and feel. Package is fairly compact, but not as much as, say, an NGAL. 6. If you switch the unit to off when it's on, IT STAYS OFF. Praise $DEITY! 7. Onboard controls worked fine. Click to constant, hold to momentary. Remote switch behaved as appropriate (momentary was always momentary, IOW). 8. Can't accidentally activate epilepsy mode (aka strobe). 9. Adjusting power is intuitive. Clearly, someone was listening to the critique of the first unit, because that's a VERY strong showing out of the box. |
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I wanted to check out the unit's zero retention, but we've got freezing fog that rolls in right before dark... my usual shooting spot in the hills is not only ball-numbing cold right now, but with the fog, it's like 10 feet visibility. :D So I set up a 1/4" grid target indoors, mounted a control laser (a real DBAL) and the HFXC to a carbine, put the gun in a Caldwell sled, Sharpie-noted on the grid where the two laser points of aim were, and then whacked on the HFXC a bunch with a mallet from top, bottom, and sides. Then I re-aligned the sled back so the control laser was centered on its original grid mark, and noted if there was any change in the SMS position. Eh, just fast and dirty to see how it did.  SMS Laser HFXC Zero Retention Quick Test (Spoiler: it did fine.) |
| Just got mine today. Perfect form factor for a little 22lr ar15 I have a TLR VIR II on right now. My only gripe so far in backyard and maybe it's me not playing around enough, the separate power adjustment on the individual laser and illum settings is perfect, and remembers what they are set at. Combined IR laser/illum only has one setting it seems for both. In an ideal world it would use the settings of them separately. Bloom with the full power laser is pretty bad on anything close. Running high illum low laser would be ideal. |
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Originally Posted By jt526: Just got mine today. Perfect form factor for a little 22lr ar15 I have a TLR VIR II on right now. My only gripe so far in backyard and maybe it's me not playing around enough, the separate power adjustment on the individual laser and illum settings is perfect, and remembers what they are set at. Combined IR laser/illum only has one setting it seems for both. In an ideal world it would use the settings of them separately. Bloom with the full power laser is pretty bad on anything close. Running high illum low laser would be ideal. This is correct, and it's definitely a design flaw. Oddly enough, it's about the same problem the M6TR had until the vendors convinced Laserspeed to stop pushing the IR laser so hard. "Programmed IR illuminator and IR laser powers" would have been a way better setting than that useless strobe setting at the bottom of the mode settings dial. In other news, I finally took my HFXC out tonight, and it held zero perfectly. Like, I checked when I was back home and the laser was precisely where I put it in the first place. It was a little too foggy out for me to gauge coalignment (it was terrible shooting weather and illuminators simply didn't work past about 15yds). But there was no flicker, and the overall package worked well enough. Hopefully weather will be better next week and I can get a better sense of how it performs. |
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Got mine and so far I am impressed. Compared to my somo peq this is substantially lower profile, no intrusion into the optic FOV with a 2.5x scope at 1.54". The weight is 8.7oz WITH the 18500 battery, I really appreciate SMS being accurate in their specs here. The 18350 PLHV2 with DS00 that I had been running was 5.8oz, so it is only a 3oz penalty to add an MFAL over just a quality white light. The form factor combined with the flashlight make this viable to run on my main 16" rifle. Up to now I had never considered leaving an MFAL on all the time due to the added weight/bulk. Didn't try the included tape switch but its working great with my somo switch. The crane port is much tighter than on my somo. Appreciate the single card Chinglish instruction manual. Love the form factor and fire button location and feel. IMO moving the bulk to the left side of the rifle and having inline lasers is the ideal MFAL layout. Initial dislikes: -momentary takes way too long to engage, I'm sure this is something they can easily fix for future revisions. -18500 battery is potentially a disqualifier for serious use, just not interested in adding yet another battery type to my kit. If this thing survives a few range sessions I'll for sure be buying the 18650 extended cap. -in future I think it would be cool if they branched into two models: one unit as small and light as possible, built around an 18350, perhaps without the flashlight. Another model built around an 18650, with a top picatinny rail to mount a dot and run on your receiver. The extra space could be used to make the flashlight more throwy, or maybe even be threaded for scout light heads. |
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Originally Posted By shenendoah_rifleman: Another model built around an 18650, with a top picatinny rail to mount a dot and run on your receiver. The extra space could be used to make the flashlight more throwy, or maybe even be threaded for scout light heads. They don't even need to go to 18650 to do that; they just need to shrink the mode selector dial and move it left. It is needlessly huge, I assume to leverage parts commonality with the XK68. |
SMSLaser HFXC (Page 1 of 6)
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