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Posted: 4/11/2025 11:16:29 AM EDT
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Any one tried one? At $100 del, I have a hankering to give one a go. @me back, please. |
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Originally Posted By 135Patriots: No but the g24 clones are broadly functional so it wouldn't surprise me if you have the same experience. The fake Wilcox mounts are not "just as good" but to bottom-line it, they work. I tried one. It did not allow me to line up a PVS14 on a TW helmet with a MAX14 J Arm. I sent it back and got a real Wilcox G24 and it works fine/adjusts proper. The clone I had was an "argus". Just spend the money and get it right IMO. |
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Originally Posted By JohnDough: I tried one. It did not allow me to line up a PVS14 on a TW helmet with a MAX14 J Arm. I sent it back and got a real Wilcox G24 and it works fine/adjusts proper. The clone I had was an "argus". Just spend the money and get it right IMO. Originally Posted By JohnDough: Originally Posted By 135Patriots: No but the g24 clones are broadly functional so it wouldn't surprise me if you have the same experience. The fake Wilcox mounts are not "just as good" but to bottom-line it, they work. I tried one. It did not allow me to line up a PVS14 on a TW helmet with a MAX14 J Arm. I sent it back and got a real Wilcox G24 and it works fine/adjusts proper. The clone I had was an "argus". Just spend the money and get it right IMO. To be fair, we are talking 4x the $$, for a device (in my case) that will be used on a 3rd line NOD. Currently, I have a REAL Wilcox G1 that doesn’t really line up perfectly…. |
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All my SOTAC clones worked on 3 different helmets, with Aurora Pros, BNVD-SGs, and MH25's. Either the Skeet IRx clone bridge, or the KVC clone bridge worked fine too (though I did have to have a machinist drill another hole on the KVC clone, because the unmodified MH25 and Aurora Pro need to sit really close - the Skeet clone was fine as is). I modded the two L4G24s clones and an L2G05 clone with nylon tipped screws from McMaster so the drum doesn't get scored. Luck of the draw I guess. I also have an Argus, but have never had a problem, so haven't used it - sh*t feels tight in the hand though. Oh - I've actually had a 3rd L4G24 clone, and it had a slight tilt tension problem that was solved by wrapping teflon tape in the tilt mechanism... a trick I learned from a post about a Wilcox with the same problem  Oh II - Real Wilcox Shoe needed a couple light passes with a file, to fit in the Skeet clone bridge. For the money saved for third line stuff, a little hobby crafting is worth the effort if you even have to do it. |
My experience has been much like Mick's; one thing that needs to be mentioned is that they are rapidly improving these things as they go. The quality on the SOTAC stuff just keeps improving each generation. In fact, I have probably committed the ultimate heresy by replacing the std length Big Dub-ya arms with the extended versions by SOTAC  . The fit was perfect and they have held up well in just normal use, i.e., just "patrolling" around in the field. Again, like Mick, I replaced a lot of the questionable hardware with stuff from McMaster, including the teflon tips or whatever they are. So I don't have one, but I'd be willing to bet the Cadex clone is actually better than the previous Willy ones. |
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I have one, I like the force to over come for the flip up. The button to release them to come down is in a weird for me place. It also takes more force on the button to drop them down than a g24 style I think due to the spring forcing it up. I used it this weekend for a shoot and a few times I bumped the button for adjusting it away from my face trying to find the button. But it is easier to adjust the distance from my face as its only one button to hit. Practice/training might make it easier for me. So there are pluses and minuses for me so far. |
"I am gonna laugh my ass off looking out the air vent of the box car watching some of you shot in the head in a ditch when you finally realize it's time to resist." stolen from RR_broccoli
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