Armory Sponsor
The $100 effective Form1 suppressors, and one not so $100 56k beware, or even 2mb like me...... (Page 6 of 120)
|
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Whoever got his turned down first said his machinist said it was slightly out of round or centered... Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Originally Posted By pdm:
Originally Posted By mygreenkaw:
Have a hard time convincing me otherwise, sure does look like weld seam. That's most likely folded, welded tubing that's been possibly final machined for concentricy. Even if machined the weld will show. Good paper If you have a buddy see if he can check run-out. Folded tubing will be .020 - .030 out. Whoever got his turned down first said his machinist said it was slightly out of round or centered... I had the SS spacer tubing turned. It was way out of center....about .020 IIRC, which was quite a bit due the thin wall. I didn't have the actual registered tube checked but I can tell that my tube definieltly is a bit out of round. All of my baffles and spacers have been turned to about 1.345- .348 and they all slide nicely down the tube until they get about 3" from one end, then they get stuck. I don't see any issues with welded tubing. I think it'll handle any pressures that a suppressor will require. |
" I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you with tears in my eyes. If you fuck with me I will kill you all" Major General James Mattis, USMC speaking to Iraqi tribal leaders during the march to Baghdad, 2003
|
Originally Posted By pdm:
I had the SS spacer tubing turned. It was way out of center....about .020 IIRC, which was quite a bit due the thin wall. I didn't have the actual registered tube checked but I can tell that my tube definieltly is a bit out of round. All of my baffles and spacers have been turned to about 1.345- .348 and they all slide nicely down the tube until they get about 3" from one end, then they get stuck. I don't see any issues with welded tubing. I think it'll handle any pressures that a suppressor will require. Originally Posted By pdm:
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Originally Posted By pdm:
Originally Posted By mygreenkaw:
Have a hard time convincing me otherwise, sure does look like weld seam. That's most likely folded, welded tubing that's been possibly final machined for concentricy. Even if machined the weld will show. Good paper If you have a buddy see if he can check run-out. Folded tubing will be .020 - .030 out. Whoever got his turned down first said his machinist said it was slightly out of round or centered... I had the SS spacer tubing turned. It was way out of center....about .020 IIRC, which was quite a bit due the thin wall. I didn't have the actual registered tube checked but I can tell that my tube definieltly is a bit out of round. All of my baffles and spacers have been turned to about 1.345- .348 and they all slide nicely down the tube until they get about 3" from one end, then they get stuck. I don't see any issues with welded tubing. I think it'll handle any pressures that a suppressor will require. I'm just not as confident in turning it down a lot. |
|
Measure the ID distance of the threaded portion. You should get 1.375"
The standard Maglite has additional material machined out before threading, which opens the threaded ID to 1.375" (at least on my Maglite). Now, running the numbers: Tube OD is 1.5"-1.375" = .125"/2 sides = .0625" thick at the threaded portion. Now if you are running 20 TPI threads they cut .027" deep and you end up with .0625" - .027" = .0356" of wall thickness in the threaded portion. It is best to have .050". These walls are too thin and will eventually fail if the threading was done with a sharp root. Any little micro-crack that is in the material at that .0356" thin wall will propagate due to the heat cycles and things will break. When and in whose lifetime they might fail, who knows? I personally think that the Maglite threading is too course and too deep and thanks to the little step they put in there of .0125" it only makes matters worse. Not the best application here for suppressors, but probably OK if you are not going crazy shooting Magnum sized stuff. Probably will hold up to subsonic rounds for a long, long time. It would not be my first choice however. Look at my picture real quick (tube just came in) The wall is .06" thick here, the threads stick out from that wall, not cut into it. So if you were to make it 1.500" you are taking .025 off of each side, making it .035" thick walls. https://content-na.drive.amazonaws.com/cdproxy/templink/iawPZs6fNZtm_9BMpwNe4nmwgf-pGqU6YiY0kfHbPqYLAYspN?viewBox=963 |
|
Originally Posted By cpy911: Measure the ID distance of the threaded portion. You should get 1.375" The standard Maglite has additional material machined out before threading, which opens the threaded ID to 1.375" (at least on my Maglite). Now, running the numbers: Tube OD is 1.5"-1.375" = .125"/2 sides = .0625" thick at the threaded portion. Now if you are running 20 TPI threads they cut .027" deep and you end up with .0625" - .027" = .0356" of wall thickness in the threaded portion. It is best to have .050". These walls are too thin and will eventually fail if the threading was done with a sharp root. Any little micro-crack that is in the material at that .0356" thin wall will propagate due to the heat cycles and things will break. When and in whose lifetime they might fail, who knows? I personally think that the Maglite threading is too course and too deep and thanks to the little step they put in there of .0125" it only makes matters worse. Not the best application here for suppressors, but probably OK if you are not going crazy shooting Magnum sized stuff. Probably will hold up to subsonic rounds for a long, long time. It would not be my first choice however. Originally Posted By cpy911: Measure the ID distance of the threaded portion. You should get 1.375" The standard Maglite has additional material machined out before threading, which opens the threaded ID to 1.375" (at least on my Maglite). Now, running the numbers: Tube OD is 1.5"-1.375" = .125"/2 sides = .0625" thick at the threaded portion. Now if you are running 20 TPI threads they cut .027" deep and you end up with .0625" - .027" = .0356" of wall thickness in the threaded portion. It is best to have .050". These walls are too thin and will eventually fail if the threading was done with a sharp root. Any little micro-crack that is in the material at that .0356" thin wall will propagate due to the heat cycles and things will break. When and in whose lifetime they might fail, who knows? I personally think that the Maglite threading is too course and too deep and thanks to the little step they put in there of .0125" it only makes matters worse. Not the best application here for suppressors, but probably OK if you are not going crazy shooting Magnum sized stuff. Probably will hold up to subsonic rounds for a long, long time. It would not be my first choice however. Cross-posting from the other forum: I'm using one of the stainless tubes and was planning to turn the OD down to 1.51" giving me a 0.45" wall at the threads. Think that's safe enough for .308 & .223 use? I can go to 1.52" OD but would rather save the weight if it's OK. |
Originally Posted By HogJaws:
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
|
Clarification, my Maglite body is running right at 1.5"
Just saying that the off the shelf Maglite body is not the same dimensions as the Apogee or SD tubes....FYI IF the Apogee or SD tac tubes are indeed at 1.55" then the standard 20 TPI maglite threading is OK. Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
Cross-posting from the other forum: Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
Originally Posted By cpy911:
Measure the ID distance of the threaded portion. You should get 1.375" The standard Maglite has additional material machined out before threading, which opens the threaded ID to 1.375" (at least on my Maglite). Now, running the numbers: Tube OD is 1.5"-1.375" = .125"/2 sides = .0625" thick at the threaded portion. Now if you are running 20 TPI threads they cut .027" deep and you end up with .0625" - .027" = .0356" of wall thickness in the threaded portion. It is best to have .050". These walls are too thin and will eventually fail if the threading was done with a sharp root. Any little micro-crack that is in the material at that .0356" thin wall will propagate due to the heat cycles and things will break. When and in whose lifetime they might fail, who knows? I personally think that the Maglite threading is too course and too deep and thanks to the little step they put in there of .0125" it only makes matters worse. Not the best application here for suppressors, but probably OK if you are not going crazy shooting Magnum sized stuff. Probably will hold up to subsonic rounds for a long, long time. It would not be my first choice however. Cross-posting from the other forum: I'm using one of the stainless tubes and was planning to turn the OD down to 1.51" giving me a 0.45" wall at the threads.
Think that's safe enough for .308 & .223 use? I can go to 1.52" OD but would rather save the weight if it's OK. |
|
Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
Cross-posting from the other forum: You will have .041 at the threading area...probably ok, but better to have more...I would hesitate to run full house .308 loads in this! Leave the threaded area to 1.55! Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
Originally Posted By cpy911:
Measure the ID distance of the threaded portion. You should get 1.375" The standard Maglite has additional material machined out before threading, which opens the threaded ID to 1.375" (at least on my Maglite). Now, running the numbers: Tube OD is 1.5"-1.375" = .125"/2 sides = .0625" thick at the threaded portion. Now if you are running 20 TPI threads they cut .027" deep and you end up with .0625" - .027" = .0356" of wall thickness in the threaded portion. It is best to have .050". These walls are too thin and will eventually fail if the threading was done with a sharp root. Any little micro-crack that is in the material at that .0356" thin wall will propagate due to the heat cycles and things will break. When and in whose lifetime they might fail, who knows? I personally think that the Maglite threading is too course and too deep and thanks to the little step they put in there of .0125" it only makes matters worse. Not the best application here for suppressors, but probably OK if you are not going crazy shooting Magnum sized stuff. Probably will hold up to subsonic rounds for a long, long time. It would not be my first choice however. Cross-posting from the other forum: You will have .041 at the threading area...probably ok, but better to have more...I would hesitate to run full house .308 loads in this! Leave the threaded area to 1.55! I'm using one of the stainless tubes and was planning to turn the OD down to 1.51" giving me a 0.45" wall at the threads.
Think that's safe enough for .308 & .223 use? I can go to 1.52" OD but would rather save the weight if it's OK. |
|
Originally Posted By cpy911:
Measure the ID distance of the threaded portion. You should get 1.375" The standard Maglite has additional material machined out before threading, which opens the threaded ID to 1.375" (at least on my Maglite). Now, running the numbers: Tube OD is 1.5"-1.375" = .125"/2 sides = .0625" thick at the threaded portion. Now if you are running 20 TPI threads they cut .027" deep and you end up with .0625" - .027" = .0356" of wall thickness in the threaded portion. It is best to have .050". These walls are too thin and will eventually fail if the threading was done with a sharp root. Any little micro-crack that is in the material at that .0356" thin wall will propagate due to the heat cycles and things will break. When and in whose lifetime they might fail, who knows? I personally think that the Maglite threading is too course and too deep and thanks to the little step they put in there of .0125" it only makes matters worse. Not the best application here for suppressors, but probably OK if you are not going crazy shooting Magnum sized stuff. Probably will hold up to subsonic rounds for a long, long time. It would not be my first choice however. Originally Posted By cpy911:
Measure the ID distance of the threaded portion. You should get 1.375" The standard Maglite has additional material machined out before threading, which opens the threaded ID to 1.375" (at least on my Maglite). Now, running the numbers: Tube OD is 1.5"-1.375" = .125"/2 sides = .0625" thick at the threaded portion. Now if you are running 20 TPI threads they cut .027" deep and you end up with .0625" - .027" = .0356" of wall thickness in the threaded portion. It is best to have .050". These walls are too thin and will eventually fail if the threading was done with a sharp root. Any little micro-crack that is in the material at that .0356" thin wall will propagate due to the heat cycles and things will break. When and in whose lifetime they might fail, who knows? I personally think that the Maglite threading is too course and too deep and thanks to the little step they put in there of .0125" it only makes matters worse. Not the best application here for suppressors, but probably OK if you are not going crazy shooting Magnum sized stuff. Probably will hold up to subsonic rounds for a long, long time. It would not be my first choice however. Look at my picture real quick (tube just came in) The wall is .06" thick here, the threads stick out from that wall, not cut into it. So if you were to make it 1.500" you are taking .025 off of each side, making it .035" thick walls. https://content-na.drive.amazonaws.com/cdproxy/templink/iawPZs6fNZtm_9BMpwNe4nmwgf-pGqU6YiY0kfHbPqYLAYspN?viewBox=963 
|
|
What dimension do you get across the threads? For an off the shelf maglite, I get 1.375 to 1.380. You can see a step machined at 1.43" into body and then threaded from there.
I assume yours does not have the step machined in? If so, this would not be standard to work with the thread adapters. I am confused?! Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
https://content-na.drive.amazonaws.com/cdproxy/templink/PDanA37mQTRFUJSOZY9bO3kzbrm0JJQMarpxT5L9p1ELAYspN?viewBox=1920 Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Originally Posted By cpy911:
Measure the ID distance of the threaded portion. You should get 1.375" The standard Maglite has additional material machined out before threading, which opens the threaded ID to 1.375" (at least on my Maglite). Now, running the numbers: Tube OD is 1.5"-1.375" = .125"/2 sides = .0625" thick at the threaded portion. Now if you are running 20 TPI threads they cut .027" deep and you end up with .0625" - .027" = .0356" of wall thickness in the threaded portion. It is best to have .050". These walls are too thin and will eventually fail if the threading was done with a sharp root. Any little micro-crack that is in the material at that .0356" thin wall will propagate due to the heat cycles and things will break. When and in whose lifetime they might fail, who knows? I personally think that the Maglite threading is too course and too deep and thanks to the little step they put in there of .0125" it only makes matters worse. Not the best application here for suppressors, but probably OK if you are not going crazy shooting Magnum sized stuff. Probably will hold up to subsonic rounds for a long, long time. It would not be my first choice however. Look at my picture real quick (tube just came in) The wall is .06" thick here, the threads stick out from that wall, not cut into it. So if you were to make it 1.500" you are taking .025 off of each side, making it .035" thick walls. https://content-na.drive.amazonaws.com/cdproxy/templink/iawPZs6fNZtm_9BMpwNe4nmwgf-pGqU6YiY0kfHbPqYLAYspN?viewBox=963 https://content-na.drive.amazonaws.com/cdproxy/templink/PDanA37mQTRFUJSOZY9bO3kzbrm0JJQMarpxT5L9p1ELAYspN?viewBox=1920 |
|
Originally Posted By cpy911:
So you measure 1.35 from thread to thread for ID? Sorry no, the dotted lines are not exact. Dont have my calipers right now, but outer diameter of the end cap's threads are 1.430" The "peaks" of the threads in the tube create a larger diameter then 1.350", but I've checked their depth with a pin and I'm telling you they dont go as deep as you are claiming. But its really a moot point anyway. |
|
Summarizing dimensions for a D size maglite:
ID nominal: 1.35" ID bored out section: 1.435 -1.44ish ID threaded section: 1.375" OD nominal: 1.55" (is correct, mis-measured) Material: Aluminum End cap: OD of threads: 1.43" Can I get something similar summary for the SD products? Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Sorry no, the dotted lines are not exact. Dont have my calipers right now, but outer diameter of the end cap's threads are 1.430" The "peaks" of the threads in the tube create a larger diameter then 1.350", but I've checked their depth with a pin and I'm telling you they dont go as deep as you are claiming. But its really a moot point anyway. Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Originally Posted By cpy911:
So you measure 1.35 from thread to thread for ID? Sorry no, the dotted lines are not exact. Dont have my calipers right now, but outer diameter of the end cap's threads are 1.430" The "peaks" of the threads in the tube create a larger diameter then 1.350", but I've checked their depth with a pin and I'm telling you they dont go as deep as you are claiming. But its really a moot point anyway. |
|
Again I'm waiting for esstac as I dont have anything in front of me right now to comfirm. But those all sound correct. But what leads you to believe that the threads cut much deeper then the 1.430 into the tube?
I understand that the sharp cuts are going to create a high stress concentration there, but there SHOULD be a .06" thick wall there. I'm also assuming the endcap area is a relatively low pressure area of the can |
|
Based on my measurements on the MagLite tube I have (NOT the Apogee or SDTA), the following dimensions should be accurate. The dims with a "?" are not measured but are calculated based upon the 1.389" thread ID plus the 0.027" (per side) thread depth per the machinery handbook for 20tpi threads.  |
Originally Posted By HogJaws:
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
|
Originally Posted By pdm:
I had the SS spacer tubing turned. It was way out of center....about .020 IIRC, which was quite a bit due the thin wall. I didn't have the actual registered tube checked but I can tell that my tube definieltly is a bit out of round. All of my baffles and spacers have been turned to about 1.345- .348 and they all slide nicely down the tube until they get about 3" from one end, then they get stuck. I don't see any issues with welded tubing. I think it'll handle any pressures that a suppressor will require. Originally Posted By pdm:
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Originally Posted By pdm:
Originally Posted By mygreenkaw:
Have a hard time convincing me otherwise, sure does look like weld seam. That's most likely folded, welded tubing that's been possibly final machined for concentricy. Even if machined the weld will show. Good paper If you have a buddy see if he can check run-out. Folded tubing will be .020 - .030 out. Whoever got his turned down first said his machinist said it was slightly out of round or centered... I had the SS spacer tubing turned. It was way out of center....about .020 IIRC, which was quite a bit due the thin wall. I didn't have the actual registered tube checked but I can tell that my tube definieltly is a bit out of round. All of my baffles and spacers have been turned to about 1.345- .348 and they all slide nicely down the tube until they get about 3" from one end, then they get stuck. I don't see any issues with welded tubing. I think it'll handle any pressures that a suppressor will require. If there weren't issues with it, all the suppressor manufacturers would use it. It's cheaper. |
Asinus Delenda Est [img]anim_horse.gif[/img]
|
Originally Posted By Vault_Boy:
<SNIP> If there weren't issues with it, all the suppressor manufacturers would use it. It's cheaper. Not saying it's optimal, I just don't forsee any problems. A commercial manufacturer has a liablity issue to consider and must always program in the Darwin factor. |
" I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you with tears in my eyes. If you fuck with me I will kill you all" Major General James Mattis, USMC speaking to Iraqi tribal leaders during the march to Baghdad, 2003
|
Does anyone have the SDTA QD muzzle brake?
I'd like to know what the outer dimension is where it meets the barrel. My .308 AR has a .920 barrel, and I am concerned that it may leave an exposed area of barrel if it isn't that thick where it butts up to the barrel. Thanks |
My triskel avatar has no connection to NSM. I am not affiliated with any NSM group, movement, or ideology-- nor do I adhere to any such ideology.
https://www.facebook.com/SwampPolitics
https://www.facebook.com/SwampPolitics
I recall that there is a forumula for calculating the "effective" ID of a threaded section, but I can't remember the formula itself. It depends on TPI, depth of cuts and thread form (Acme, UNF, etc.), which means the formula takes into account the bearing area of the threads as well. Machinists, feel free to chime in with that forumla...
The reason I bring this up is to add to the discussion of remaining tube wall thickness. While the actual deepest cut of the threading is very important, I think we'd also have to keep in mind the "design load" capability of the threaded portion of the tube. Inspecting for cracks or other imperfections makes sense, but I think we may be underestimating the ability of whatever material we're talking about to withstand pressure. Which brings up another point: does anyone have solid information about what alloys are being used in the aluminum, stainless and carbon steel, and the titanium tubes? In addition to depending on the vendors to be correct when they say they're seamless tubes, knowing what alloy an aluminum or stainless tube is made from could provide substantial insight into how strong they really are. No cost is involved in knowing that information and using it to decide which tube to buy based on this information. |
"--you can't conquer a free man; the most you can do is kill him."
Heinlein
NRA Life Member
Glock Certified Armorer
Certified AR15 Armorer
Certified M1911 Armorer
Heinlein
NRA Life Member
Glock Certified Armorer
Certified AR15 Armorer
Certified M1911 Armorer
|
Slightly off topic but I was browsing Brownells and came across this nifty tool that looks like it could be perfect for forming baffles, for those of us who do not have or need an arbor press. Also if you are handy could probably make something like this with a bottle jack and a few supplies...
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/vises-accessories/barrel-vises/all-pro-barrel-vise-prod16139.aspx 
|
|
Just received my tube from Apogee Products. I'll get measurements on it this evening and post some pics I think. In the meantime, I can CONFIRM the stainless tube from Apogee Products is 100% seamless as in turned both ID & OD from stainless bar as I was told. There are zero indications of a weld seam and the OD & ID are both turned to dimension. Mine weighs: 16.6oz I'm having a friend of my father's open the inside to 1.375" and I may turn the outside down a bit too; haven't decided yet. I'll re-post the weight when the machining is complete. |
Originally Posted By HogJaws:
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
| I just got my tubes and caps today as well. Can't wait for my plugs get here and I can start pressing baffles. Off to do some paperwork.... |
You only have power over people so long as you don't take everything away from them. But when you've robbed a man of everything, he's no longer in your power, he's free again.-Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn
|
Originally Posted By detroitmedic:
Slightly off topic but I was browsing Brownells and came across this nifty tool that looks like it could be perfect for forming baffles, for those of us who do not have or need an arbor press. Also if you are handy could probably make something like this with a bottle jack and a few supplies... http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/general-gunsmith-tools/vises-accessories/barrel-vises/all-pro-barrel-vise-prod16139.aspx http://www.brownells.com/userdocs/products/p_959400000_1.jpg It doesn't look like it is enough adjustment range for the longer lathe center method, also it is a lot more expensive than the Harbor Freight Arbor press. |
| The internal volume of a shot glass is 1.5 ounces. Internal volume of a K baffle could also be right about 1.5 ounces. Anyone interested in doing a group buy on shot glasses from emachine? |
Don't let your mind be so open that your brains fall out or so closed that your ears rub together. ~Brother Wright
|
Originally Posted By JoshAston: The internal volume of a shot glass is 1.5 ounces. Internal volume of a K baffle could also be right about 1.5 ounces. Anyone interested in doing a group buy on shot glasses from emachine? K baffles don't perform as well for supersonic or large gas volumes; cones are proven better at that. These tall stainless shot glasses could be had for ~$13 each via eMachineShop when ordered in quantities of 70. I know a local shop indicated he could do something similar for time & materials which he indicated about ~4 hours at $100 per hour, during which 1-2 hours programming the machine, 1 hour to setup the machine, and about an hour of the machine running. The machine would turn them at a rate of about 1 every 45 seconds; meaning 80 shot glasses for about $5 each. I'm sure there are machine shops that would be cheaper for small parts like this; plus the design could be tweaked for easier machining.  |
Originally Posted By HogJaws:
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
|
Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
K baffles don't perform as well for supersonic or large gas volumes; cones are proven better at that. These tall stainless shot glasses could be had for ~$13 each via eMachineShop when ordered in quantities of 70. I know a local shop indicated he could do something similar for time & materials which he indicated about ~4 hours at $100 per hour, during which 1-2 hours programming the machine, 1 hour to setup the machine, and about an hour of the machine running. The machine would turn them at a rate of about 1 every 45 seconds; meaning 80 shot glasses for about $5 each. I'm sure there are machine shops that would be cheaper for small parts like this; plus the design could be tweaked for easier machining. http://s20.postimg.org/fsqmnw9yl/Tall_Shot_Glass.jpg Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
Originally Posted By JoshAston:
The internal volume of a shot glass is 1.5 ounces. Internal volume of a K baffle could also be right about 1.5 ounces. Anyone interested in doing a group buy on shot glasses from emachine? K baffles don't perform as well for supersonic or large gas volumes; cones are proven better at that. These tall stainless shot glasses could be had for ~$13 each via eMachineShop when ordered in quantities of 70. I know a local shop indicated he could do something similar for time & materials which he indicated about ~4 hours at $100 per hour, during which 1-2 hours programming the machine, 1 hour to setup the machine, and about an hour of the machine running. The machine would turn them at a rate of about 1 every 45 seconds; meaning 80 shot glasses for about $5 each. I'm sure there are machine shops that would be cheaper for small parts like this; plus the design could be tweaked for easier machining. http://s20.postimg.org/fsqmnw9yl/Tall_Shot_Glass.jpg Could we have the shot glasses made to different diameters? like to fit not only the SD D-Cell tubes but the improved SS tubes from Ryan's thread? |
|
Originally Posted By Shawnson: Could we have the shot glasses made to different diameters? like to fit not only the SD D-Cell tubes but the improved SS tubes from Ryan's thread? Originally Posted By Shawnson: Originally Posted By blwngazkit: Originally Posted By JoshAston: The internal volume of a shot glass is 1.5 ounces. Internal volume of a K baffle could also be right about 1.5 ounces. Anyone interested in doing a group buy on shot glasses from emachine? K baffles don't perform as well for supersonic or large gas volumes; cones are proven better at that. These tall stainless shot glasses could be had for ~$13 each via eMachineShop when ordered in quantities of 70. I know a local shop indicated he could do something similar for time & materials which he indicated about ~4 hours at $100 per hour, during which 1-2 hours programming the machine, 1 hour to setup the machine, and about an hour of the machine running. The machine would turn them at a rate of about 1 every 45 seconds; meaning 80 shot glasses for about $5 each. I'm sure there are machine shops that would be cheaper for small parts like this; plus the design could be tweaked for easier machining. http://s20.postimg.org/fsqmnw9yl/Tall_Shot_Glass.jpg Could we have the shot glasses made to different diameters? like to fit not only the SD D-Cell tubes but the improved SS tubes from Ryan's thread? Well changing the diameter would change the machine programming so it would be an additional order. You did jog my memory though, the one's I sketched & priced were all 1.375"; not that it would change any of the costs. |
Originally Posted By HogJaws:
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
|
Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
Well changing the diameter would change the machine programming so it would be an additional order. You did jog my memory though, the one's I sketched & priced were all 1.375"; not that it would change any of the costs. Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
Originally Posted By Shawnson:
Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
Originally Posted By JoshAston:
The internal volume of a shot glass is 1.5 ounces. Internal volume of a K baffle could also be right about 1.5 ounces. Anyone interested in doing a group buy on shot glasses from emachine? K baffles don't perform as well for supersonic or large gas volumes; cones are proven better at that. These tall stainless shot glasses could be had for ~$13 each via eMachineShop when ordered in quantities of 70. I know a local shop indicated he could do something similar for time & materials which he indicated about ~4 hours at $100 per hour, during which 1-2 hours programming the machine, 1 hour to setup the machine, and about an hour of the machine running. The machine would turn them at a rate of about 1 every 45 seconds; meaning 80 shot glasses for about $5 each. I'm sure there are machine shops that would be cheaper for small parts like this; plus the design could be tweaked for easier machining. http://s20.postimg.org/fsqmnw9yl/Tall_Shot_Glass.jpg Could we have the shot glasses made to different diameters? like to fit not only the SD D-Cell tubes but the improved SS tubes from Ryan's thread? Well changing the diameter would change the machine programming so it would be an additional order. You did jog my memory though, the one's I sketched & priced were all 1.375"; not that it would change any of the costs. I understand it would be a new set up fee but I could whip up some .IGES files in Solidworks for a few different popular diameters. You just place your order and specify a diameter and a quantity. Seems like it would be easy enough. Cost comes down as more orders are received. The easier it is for more people to get the size they need the more orders they should get. I don't want to flood him with 50 different designs but I think a top 3 or 4 would work. ETA I just went back and looked and I missed that the ID of Ryan's tubes is 1.375" so I guess that would work fine. |
| There would be $2-2.50 (price for 1") in SS Bar material cost for each cone, so $2.50 each to do that machining work each would be and outright steal. The 1.375 is a common bar size, for 1.350 they would have to turn the 1.375 bar stock down first, so there probably would be additional cost. Are you doing this, they would sell easy. It is really pushing things as far a silencer parts thing goes. |
|
Originally Posted By c5hardtop:
There would be $2-2.50 (price for 1") in SS Bar material cost for each cone, so $2.50 each to do that machining work each would be and outright steal. The 1.375 is a common bar size, for 1.350 they would have to turn the 1.375 bar stock down first, so there probably would be additional cost. Are you doing this, they would sell easy. It is really pushing things as far a silencer parts thing goes. Are you referring to our custom heavy duty flask funnels? Them commercial flask funnels are cheap and flimsy. These would be for serious flask users. |
|
C5, is your name Ryan? I'm debating having a large order of these shot glasses or funnels made to my spec with a local machine shop. I have pricing at $5-$10 each depending on count unless I order more than a few hundred, then the price drops below $5. As this is really pushing the envelope regarding what could potentially be incorrectly used as a suppressor part, I'm not currently going to move forward until I get an answer from an attorney I know. |
Originally Posted By HogJaws:
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
|
Originally Posted By blwngazkit: C5, is your name Ryan?
I'm debating having a large order of these shot glasses or funnels made to my spec with a local machine shop. I have pricing at $5-$10 each depending on count unless I order more than a few hundred, then the price drops below $5. As this is really pushing the envelope regarding what could potentially be incorrectly used as a suppressor part, I'm not currently going to move forward until I get an answer from an attorney I know. Perhaps a website - www.CustomFlaskFunnels.com would be in order? 
|
Managing Member of Mischief
|
Just to throw this out there... Some of the 3D printing companies can 'cheaply' print in a version of 420 stainless... Shapeways, Ponoko, i.Materialse, Kraftwurx, & so on. The material is 70% stainless & 30% bronze and the spec data indicates it's pretty tough stuff, comparable to SS304. The dimensional accuracy is a little lacking but may be workable at +/-1% of any dimension. ETA: The 70/30 material is actually produced by a company called ExOne. I've gotten quotes from them in the past and received prototype parts for my jobsites and the material is VERY hard. I can't actually drill it without carbide tools... I've never checked the dimensional tolerances before since it never mattered; but ExOne claims +/-0.5% and they QC things where Shapeways does not (I send them 3d file & 2d CAD showing fitment of parts and ExOne only sends me parts that fit). |
Originally Posted By HogJaws:
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
|
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim: I'm having a hell of a time finding someone to turn down my tube. All the shops around here dont really do "small jobs" and are pretty busy. I contacted ADCO today and they are worried about being "liable"  |
Originally Posted By HogJaws:
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
"You know things are bad in CA when chicks who do ATM for a living are giving up on the place."
|
Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
Liable for what? Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
I'm having a hell of a time finding someone to turn down my tube. All the shops around here dont really do "small jobs" and are pretty busy. I contacted ADCO today and they are worried about being "liable"
If it bursts/ blows up. |
|
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
If it bursts/ blows up. Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
I'm having a hell of a time finding someone to turn down my tube. All the shops around here dont really do "small jobs" and are pretty busy. I contacted ADCO today and they are worried about being "liable"
If it bursts/ blows up. It would be the first exploding solvent trap I have ever heard of... Just sayin 
|
|
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
If it bursts/ blows up. Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
Originally Posted By blwngazkit:
Originally Posted By InfiniteGrim:
I'm having a hell of a time finding someone to turn down my tube. All the shops around here dont really do "small jobs" and are pretty busy. I contacted ADCO today and they are worried about being "liable"
If it bursts/ blows up. Ask if they can re-profile your hand guard... MAHA |
Quote Originally Posted By rageracing
"......Tell the guy in the gun store that ARFCOM said he is a fucking dumb ass......"
"......Tell the guy in the gun store that ARFCOM said he is a fucking dumb ass......"
|
I have read this with much interest. Is there any reason not to use the SDT muzzle brake and steel thread protector with the ACME threads?
http://www.sdtacticalarms.com/SDTA-Muzzle-Break_p_65.html They seem to be well made and cheaper than the Griffin setup. |
|
Originally Posted By ponykilr:
I have read this with much interest. Is there any reason not to use the SDT muzzle brake and steel thread protector with the ACME threads? http://www.sdtacticalarms.com/SDTA-Muzzle-Break_p_65.html They seem to be well made and cheaper than the Griffin setup. Those are big and ugly. |
|
Originally Posted By ponykilr:
Other than aesthetics, is it GTG? On the SD Brake, its hair over 2 1/4" long which not really that big, the collar is forward of the attachment point so I think it probably does not protrude inside the tube any more than the Griffin. It adds length to the overall package though. There are argument points against either method, the Griffin or Solvent Trap threads are tight threads that are secure but more turns to install, If a can is not mounted you have to have a thread protector. The course threads (AAC, YHM, SDTA) do not need protectors and are quicker on and off. They are not as secure, which is why AAC has the latch system. I'm not entirely sure I would trust the mount. The biggest disadvantage is you would have to use a Apogee or SDTA tube with the SD Brake, unless you already own one of those the custom tube is just a lot better design. You would need to run a 1/2 or 5/8 or wait a little while for a Griffin mount for that though. |
|
If I wait for the steel Griffin adapter, will the Flash Comp Taper Mount work just like the Griffin muzzle brake as it relates to the adapter?
The reason I ask is that under the description on the Griffin site it says "works with our larger caliber suppressors" where the brake does not say that. |
|
Originally Posted By ponykilr:
If I wait for the steel Griffin adapter, will the Flash Comp Taper Mount work just like the Griffin muzzle brake as it relates to the adapter? The reason I ask is that under the description on the Griffin site it says "works with our larger caliber suppressors" where the brake does not say that. Both the 762 comp and 556 flash comp from griffen work in the SDtac griffin adapter. They have the same threads and taper. |
|
Thanks for doing the videos. I would have thought the 9 baffle one would performed better, they seem pretty close but the 9 baffle maybe slightly better? It would certainly be lighter. Is that the conclusion you came to? Most of mine (the 7-8") ones I was planning to be in the 5-8 baffle range.
Thanks for posted the video. Makes me want to throw mine together. |
The $100 effective Form1 suppressors, and one not so $100 56k beware, or even 2mb like me...... (Page 6 of 120)
Armory Sponsor