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Posted: 1/15/2026 12:40:53 PM EDT
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While waiting on numerous f1 suppressors…. 3d printing a suppressor, how do you go about adding metal threads? |
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CRXX5LHG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title Attached File |
1Andy2: it's just a question of if we decide to stop throwing coal in the furnace and lean on the brakes or if we're going to blow the boiler up getting to Full Retard'sville.
| Old thread but kind of on topic of my question about F1'ing a 3D printed can. Has anyone been successful getting approval and if so, what kind of verbage was used about manufacturing process/material? My SOT seemed to think I won't get approval because of it being 3D printed plastic can. What am I going to supply for picture, spool of filament and printer? |
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For mine, I modeled 5/8-24 threads into the model using Fusion's thread tool. Those actually get pretty close to good as printed with some filaments, but if they were a bit tight after printing I chase them out with a tap. Then I add a 5/8-24 to 1/2-28 thread adaptor similar to what BURN posted above. I model a recess into the face of the can to allow the flanged end to sit flush in the can. That adaptor gets epoxied into place. That leaves you with metal threads for attachment which will last longer going on-and-off various barrels, and it leaves a bit of exposed metal where you can place your SN if you wish. |
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Originally Posted By chargerdude70: Old thread but kind of on topic of my question about F1'ing a 3D printed can. Has anyone been successful getting approval and if so, what kind of verbage was used about manufacturing process/material? My SOT seemed to think I won't get approval because of it being 3D printed plastic can. What am I going to supply for picture, spool of filament and printer? In eForms, when you get to the field for 4H.Description, it asks you to describe your process there for F1 cans. I put "The silencer will be manufactured from polymer using additive manufacturing and utilizing my own CAD design." Then, in the supplemental upload section, I uploaded a single PNG that had a stock image of a 3D printer, a stock image of a spool of filament, and a stock image of the thread adaptor. Next to each pic, I added some text saying "this is the printer I will use", "This is the filament I will purchase from Amazon after approval", and "This is the type of threaded insert where I will place my SN and epoxy into the printed plastic part. I will be sourced from Amazon after approval." And that's about it. I didn't send them any drawings of my design or anything specific other than those stock images and basic description. If you want to use one of the existing designs found online like the FTN series, follow their submission instructions provided with the files. |
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Originally Posted By D_Man: In eForms, when you get to the field for 4H.Description, it asks you to describe your process there for F1 cans. I put "The silencer will be manufactured from polymer using additive manufacturing and utilizing my own CAD design." Then, in the supplemental upload section, I uploaded a single PNG that had a stock image of a 3D printer, a stock image of a spool of filament, and a stock image of the thread adaptor. Next to each pic, I added some text saying "this is the printer I will use", "This is the filament I will purchase from Amazon after approval", and "This is the type of threaded insert where I will place my SN and epoxy into the printed plastic part. I will be sourced from Amazon after approval." And that's about it. I didn't send them any drawings of my design or anything specific other than those stock images and basic description. If you want to use one of the existing designs found online like the FTN series, follow their submission instructions provided with the files. @D_Man or anyone. I see you mentioned FTN cans. I've been looking to 3d print a can sooner or later. Is the FTN considered one of hte best of just well known. Do you have any recommendations for good cans to print? Thinking about starting w/ 22 or 9mm unless you have a different recommendation (300bo?). |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: @D_Man or anyone. I see you mentioned FTN cans. I've been looking to 3d print a can sooner or later. Is the FTN considered one of hte best of just well known. Do you have any recommendations for good cans to print? Thinking about starting w/ 22 or 9mm unless you have a different recommendation (300bo?). As for a starting point, a .22 can would definitely be my recommendation. It's fairly easy to make a good, long lasting printed can for just .22, especially for like a bolt gun where there will be a slow firing schedule. I made mine off my own design, which I came up with mostly just screwing around in CAD for fun and also taking some tips about certain geometries and features from reading around online. I haven't metered it and haven't had a chance to really compare to some commercial options side-by-side yet, but it definitely works well enough for me considering. 
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I found a 5/8-24 thread protector STL and incorporate it into my suppressor designs in one of the Orca based slicers. I buy cheap steel thread adapters off of Amazon. My Qidi Plus 4 prints the threads so well that I don't even have to chase them with a tap before installing the adapter. I did recently order a bunch of 3/4-16 to 5/8-24 adapters from eBay so that I can print an unmodified FTN.5 PCC can to try on 300BLK. |
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Originally Posted By chargerdude70: Old thread but kind of on topic of my question about F1'ing a 3D printed can. Has anyone been successful getting approval and if so, what kind of verbage was used about manufacturing process/material? My SOT seemed to think I won't get approval because of it being 3D printed plastic can. What am I going to supply for picture, spool of filament and printer?  Show your SOT my approved form 1s that specifically stated 3d printed and included a photo of my 3d printer and a picture of a spool of filament. What your SOT 'thinks' and what reality is does appear to be incompatible. LOL |
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Originally Posted By Nexttime: https://i.ibb.co/jvCnYhfS/G-QJBW2-Ww-AIVxkx-format-png-name-900x900.png Show your SOT my approved form 1s that specifically stated 3d printed and included a photo of my 3d printer and a picture of a spool of filament. What your SOT 'thinks' and what reality is does appear to be incompatible. LOL Nice collection... I was hoping he was wrong. I want to take advantage of the zero dollar while we have it and want to print a .22lr for the Form1 8" barrel 10/22 Takedown I filed for on 1st of the year. If it doesn't suffice my needs, not out anything. Edit: since reading this thread I looked up the FTN suppressors and the .22lr spiral flow design is going to be my first attempt. |
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If your 3D printer can't make 1/2-28 threads, make the threads something coarser that can be adapted to. 5/8-24 and 3/4-16 come to mind. Or if it's close enough but the threads are kinda gunky at 1/2-28, run a tap through to clean them up. $15 for a 1/2-28 tap on Amazon. |
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Originally Posted By Nexttime: https://i.ibb.co/jvCnYhfS/G-QJBW2-Ww-AIVxkx-format-png-name-900x900.png Show your SOT my approved form 1s that specifically stated 3d printed and included a photo of my 3d printer and a picture of a spool of filament. What your SOT 'thinks' and what reality is does appear to be incompatible. LOL |
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Originally Posted By D_Man: In eForms, when you get to the field for 4H.Description, it asks you to describe your process there for F1 cans. I put "The silencer will be manufactured from polymer using additive manufacturing and utilizing my own CAD design." Then, in the supplemental upload section, I uploaded a single PNG that had a stock image of a 3D printer, a stock image of a spool of filament, and a stock image of the thread adaptor. Next to each pic, I added some text saying "this is the printer I will use", "This is the filament I will purchase from Amazon after approval", and "This is the type of threaded insert where I will place my SN and epoxy into the printed plastic part. I will be sourced from Amazon after approval." And that's about it. I didn't send them any drawings of my design or anything specific other than those stock images and basic description. If you want to use one of the existing designs found online like the FTN series, follow their submission instructions provided with the files. Originally Posted By D_Man: Originally Posted By chargerdude70: Old thread but kind of on topic of my question about F1'ing a 3D printed can. Has anyone been successful getting approval and if so, what kind of verbage was used about manufacturing process/material? My SOT seemed to think I won't get approval because of it being 3D printed plastic can. What am I going to supply for picture, spool of filament and printer? In eForms, when you get to the field for 4H.Description, it asks you to describe your process there for F1 cans. I put "The silencer will be manufactured from polymer using additive manufacturing and utilizing my own CAD design." Then, in the supplemental upload section, I uploaded a single PNG that had a stock image of a 3D printer, a stock image of a spool of filament, and a stock image of the thread adaptor. Next to each pic, I added some text saying "this is the printer I will use", "This is the filament I will purchase from Amazon after approval", and "This is the type of threaded insert where I will place my SN and epoxy into the printed plastic part. I will be sourced from Amazon after approval." And that's about it. I didn't send them any drawings of my design or anything specific other than those stock images and basic description. If you want to use one of the existing designs found online like the FTN series, follow their submission instructions provided with the files. In mine I just put "This will be a 3d printed suppressor on home FDM printer" and a photo of my printer. Sub mitted 01/01/2026 approved 01/06/2026 |
1Andy2: it's just a question of if we decide to stop throwing coal in the furnace and lean on the brakes or if we're going to blow the boiler up getting to Full Retard'sville.
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Originally Posted By mattdoc: If your 3D printer can't make 1/2-28 threads, make the threads something coarser that can be adapted to. 5/8-24 and 3/4-16 come to mind. Or if it's close enough but the threads are kinda gunky at 1/2-28, run a tap through to clean them up. $15 for a 1/2-28 tap on Amazon. Would it make sense to model it with HUB threads and then add a direct-thread HUB adapter to the back? |
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Originally Posted By gtsteve03: Would it make sense to model it with HUB threads and then add a direct-thread HUB adapter to the back? |
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Originally Posted By chargerdude70: How does one do threads in 3d printing? I've only printed items that had them imbeading in the file? I'd like to do a 1 3/8-24 for the surfire hub adapter... With the limits to FDM printing, you may want to do test prints in your desired orientation and see if you need to adjust the faces in the threads a little bit if they end up printing too tight or too loose. |
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Originally Posted By D_Man: You model them into the design in CAD. For example, Fusion has a thread modeling tool, as would most other CAD programs. With the limits to FDM printing, you may want to do test prints in your desired orientation and see if you need to adjust the faces in the threads a little bit if they end up printing too tight or too loose. Thank you for the answer. By adjust, do you mean something like scaling factor? Scale it slightly more or less as needed? |
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Originally Posted By chargerdude70: Thank you for the answer. By adjust, do you mean something like scaling factor? Scale it slightly more or less as needed?  Fusion 360: Thread Tool for 3D Printing |
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Originally Posted By D_Man: You move the faces in or out on the model. This video shows how to use the thread tool in Fusion to make a simple jar. Starting around 12 minutes he goes over how to adjust the thread faces to create a bit more clearance for example:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwNbSwv8P44Ok, I have CatiaV5 on my personal LT but only have done basic 3d stuff. I have NX at my disposal as well. I'll have to look into thread design using either one .. |
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Originally Posted By chargerdude70: How does one do threads in 3d printing? I've only printed items that had them imbeading in the file? I'd like to do a 1 3/8-24 for the surfire hub adapter...  Tinkercad is free but not that great IMO. The latest version of Freecad does threads but Freecad is still a bit of a pain to use. https://www.freecad.org/ https://manage.autodesk.com/login?t=/products You're best bet IMO, is to grab the free version of Fusion 360 and model the threads in that. Fusion 360 thread tool does have ANSI, imperial and plastic threads preset IIRC. |
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