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Posted: 12/30/2021 8:51:55 PM EDT
[#1]
Use high early strength concrete (Type 3)
Yes foam insulation can be, and often is, put on the outside of the wall. Usually just drill rebar dowels into the old wall. |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 8:56:35 PM EDT
[#2]
Foam can go on the exterior of the wall. Your state building code will indicate required R-value of equivalent continuous (foam) insulation (vs cavity interior type). It’s often a lower R-value since it’s thermally unbroken.
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Posted: 12/30/2021 9:19:05 PM EDT
[#3]
Pay to have some cylinders broke, make sure excessive water for workability wasn't added. That will tell you the quality of the mix.
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Posted: 12/30/2021 9:38:15 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Use high early strength concrete (Type 3) Yes foam insulation can be, and often is, put on the outside of the wall. Usually just drill rebar dowels into the old wall. Thanks. What would be the exact way to specify the H.E.S. concrete, and what PSI rating? |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 9:40:48 PM EDT
[#5]
If you are worried about the integrity of the foundation, why not just tell your GC/framer/whatever to wait a few weeks?
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Posted: 12/30/2021 9:49:00 PM EDT
[#6]
Quoted: I'm thinking about doing a 17' x 17' addition. The foundation will be poured 10" thick concrete to match the rest of the house. I have a few questions: 1. The contractor is almost certainly going to want to start building before the textbook 28-day cure time. What admixtures could I put in the spec and/or would spec'ing 5000 PSI concrete ensure that backfilling after say only 7 days doesn't weaken the wall? In case this sounds nutty, I have personally heard of a builder in this area blowing in a poured wall and nearly killing guys who were working in the basement when he backfilled prematurely. Additionally, one of my neighbor's basement walls cracked and he started taking in water. His walls cured 7 days when the house was built while mine cured 28 days (I requested that the builder do this and to my near shock, he did it). 2. The local building code requires that basement walls be insulated. I do not like batts of insulation on my basement walls. I do not much like foam, either. My thinking is that walls with insulation hanging from them are like having no walls at all i.e. you can't do anything with them (shelves, wall-mounted workbench, electrical, etc.). Can I have the contractor put foam insulation on the OUTSIDE of the walls? 3. What is the proper way to Tee into existing foundation walls? Thanks for any replies. I do structural engineering on a lot of houses, but my preference is to work in the utility world doing foundations for powerlines. 1- how early? I've allowed both power poles and houses/buildings a lot earlier than 28 days, you should be at 90% or so of your final strength after 2 week. 80% after a week. Your foundation is designed for the one time ever that a fat woman is carrying a piano across the floor while there's some snow load on the roof. You are just find for construction loads before design strength of concrete.... usually. That said, I don't know what your foundation was designed like, what your soils are like and how good the foundation placement was, so I can't 'approve' anything like that without a shitload more info as well as without actually being 'your' engineer. I'm just saying what I've done in the past and why. 2- taking care of exterior insulation sucks, don't do it. Just do it right, there's a reason we do it the way we do. You'd be likely to create a lot of problems with exterior insulation. 3- Tee what into it? Another foundation wall? Wood framing? Old foundation into new? |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 10:18:47 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I do structural engineering on a lot of houses, but my preference is to work in the utility world doing foundations for powerlines. 1- how early? I've allowed both power poles and houses/buildings a lot earlier than 28 days, you should be at 90% or so of your final strength after 2 week. 80% after a week. Your foundation is designed for the one time ever that a fat woman is carrying a piano across the floor while there's some snow load on the roof. You are just find for construction loads before design strength of concrete.... usually. That said, I don't know what your foundation was designed like, what your soils are like and how good the foundation placement was, so I can't 'approve' anything like that without a shitload more info as well as without actually being 'your' engineer. I'm just saying what I've done in the past and why. 2- taking care of exterior insulation sucks, don't do it. Just do it right, there's a reason we do it the way we do. You'd be likely to create a lot of problems with exterior insulation. 3- Tee what into it? Another foundation wall? Wood framing? Old foundation into new? Thanks for the detailed reply. Talking about Teeing into existing 10” concrete walls. |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 10:33:32 PM EDT
[#8]
Some hot mixes can be made but will cost more.
We can get a 4k break in 24hrs if you want to foot the bill. Actually broke at 4.6 But workability suffers I would just use 4k with nca and wait till the next week to backfill. Edit just noticed you are up north hot water also |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 10:41:12 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Some hot mixes can be made but will cost more. We can get a 4k break in 24hrs if you want to foot the bill. Actually broke at 4.6 But workability suffers I would just use 4k with nca and wait till the next week to backfill. Edit just noticed you are up north hot water also Hot water depending on the time of year? |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 10:47:21 PM EDT
[#10]
You don't have to wait 28 days for a concrete foundation to cure. I've seen them backfilled a couple days after being poured. Generally, a week is easily sufficient in most cases, unless the wall(s) are really long (45'+). Code is 3,000psi for footings and foundations. Anything more than that is wasting money, IMO.
Drilling and pinning the existing foundation is SOP. |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 10:48:48 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You don't have to wait 28 days for a concrete foundation to cure. I've seen them backfilled a couple days after being poured. Generally, a week is easily sufficient in most cases, unless the wall(s) are really long (45'+). Code is 3,000psi for footings and foundations. Anything more than that is wasting money, IMO. Drilling and pinning the existing foundation is SOP. What holds the pins (rebar, I assume) into the existing foundation? |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 10:49:47 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What holds the pins (rebar, I assume) into the existing foundation? Holes.  (I do this for a living). |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 10:51:37 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Holes. (I do this for a living). Do the pins need to be epoxied into the holes? |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 10:58:07 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Pay to have some cylinders broke, make sure excessive water for workability wasn't added. That will tell you the quality of the mix. Bingo. There is nothing like a strength test to determine actual, not theoretical, strength. Nothing moves forward until the cylinders say so. |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 10:59:06 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Do the pins need to be epoxied into the holes? Yes, or they can install threaded sleeves and the rebar is threaded into place. Check the code. |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 10:59:15 PM EDT
[#16]
Quoted: I'm thinking about doing a 17' x 17' addition. The foundation will be poured 10" thick concrete to match the rest of the house. I have a few questions: 1. The contractor is almost certainly going to want to start building before the textbook 28-day cure time. What admixtures could I put in the spec and/or would spec'ing 5000 PSI concrete ensure that backfilling after say only 7 days doesn't weaken the wall? In case this sounds nutty, I have personally heard of a builder in this area blowing in a poured wall and nearly killing guys who were working in the basement when he backfilled prematurely. Additionally, one of my neighbor's basement walls cracked and he started taking in water. His walls cured 7 days when the house was built while mine cured 28 days (I requested that the builder do this and to my near shock, he did it). 2. The local building code requires that basement walls be insulated. I do not like batts of insulation on my basement walls. I do not much like foam, either. My thinking is that walls with insulation hanging from them are like having no walls at all i.e. you can't do anything with them (shelves, wall-mounted workbench, electrical, etc.). Can I have the contractor put foam insulation on the OUTSIDE of the walls? 3. What is the proper way to Tee into existing foundation walls? Thanks for any replies. |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 11:00:16 PM EDT
[#17]
5kpsi foundation 10" thick?
Do you have a pet elephant? |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 11:03:21 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: 10" thick? Are you measuring the footing? I believe the floor is thinner than 10". He's talking basement walls. |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 11:04:32 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Do the pins need to be epoxied into the holes? Not at all. Where can the rebar pins go? They can only go as deep as the hole is drilled, they can't come out because have you ever driven a 1/2" pin into a 1/2" hole? They can't go left, right, up, or down because...reasons. You guys that are calling for a test cylinder are really overthinking this. |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 11:04:56 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Holes. (I do this for a living). May also have to underpin the existing foundation with helical piers. |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 11:06:59 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted: May also have to underpin the existing foundation with helical piers. Don't forget to install piles down to bedrock. |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 11:20:43 PM EDT
[#22]
Where I built, basements couldn't be backfilled untill the floor was framed and sheathed. This gives strength and prevents the walls from being pushed/tilted. It sucks for the framers working across the overdig but it makes sense.
Part of concrete's strength can be lost by adding too much water. You want the lowest slump that will work for your given situation. For instance, concrete for a 10" foundation wall can be lower slump (thicker, less water = stronger) than a slab. A slab needs to have a higher slump (thinner, more water) for workability. The batch plant can add "water reducer" if you need to pump the concrete. Rebar is the other part of the strength equation. An 8" wall with twice the rebar is going to be stronger than a 10" wall. |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 11:25:00 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Don't forget to install piles down to bedrock. Are you stating piers don't work? |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 11:27:12 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Are you stating piers don't work? Not at all. They work very well...when necessary. |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 11:29:08 PM EDT
[#25]
Quoted: I'm thinking about doing a 17' x 17' addition. The foundation will be poured 10" thick concrete to match the rest of the house. I have a few questions: 1. The contractor is almost certainly going to want to start building before the textbook 28-day cure time. What admixtures could I put in the spec and/or would spec'ing 5000 PSI concrete ensure that backfilling after say only 7 days doesn't weaken the wall? In case this sounds nutty, I have personally heard of a builder in this area blowing in a poured wall and nearly killing guys who were working in the basement when he backfilled prematurely. Additionally, one of my neighbor's basement walls cracked and he started taking in water. His walls cured 7 days when the house was built while mine cured 28 days (I requested that the builder do this and to my near shock, he did it). 2. The local building code requires that basement walls be insulated. I do not like batts of insulation on my basement walls. I do not much like foam, either. My thinking is that walls with insulation hanging from them are like having no walls at all i.e. you can't do anything with them (shelves, wall-mounted workbench, electrical, etc.). Can I have the contractor put foam insulation on the OUTSIDE of the walls? 3. What is the proper way to Tee into existing foundation walls? Thanks for any replies. 5000 psi concrete for foundation walls for a residential basement is overkill. Residential building codes are a minimum especially for reinforcing requirements. You can build on top of wall after a shorter period of time than 28 days - the time depends on several factors Don’t backfill until the first floor is in place and floor sheathing Insulation can certainly go on the outside. Needs to be protected and thought given to how the inside face is treated concerning ‘sweating’. Local conditions and conditioning matter. You can build a furring wall and insulate on the inside. 2x wood wall, insulation, vapor barrier, drywall - again depends on conditioning and locale. Dowel rebar into existing. Use a quality adhesive anchoring system. #1 - make sure the footing sub-grade and slab sub-grade is compacted before placing concrete |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 11:32:59 PM EDT
[#26]
Build 2x4 walls (with a 2x4PT bottom plate) around the inside of the foundation walls after the subfloor is framed. Set the 2x4 walls to have a 1/2” gap from the wall. Apply insulation to the stud wall cavities.
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Posted: 12/30/2021 11:33:22 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks. What would be the exact way to specify the H.E.S. concrete, and what PSI rating? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Use high early strength concrete (Type 3) Yes foam insulation can be, and often is, put on the outside of the wall. Usually just drill rebar dowels into the old wall. Thanks. What would be the exact way to specify the H.E.S. concrete, and what PSI rating? HES concrete is typically used uring a cold weather placement. Not needed for a residential foundation wall. You should get to 75% of strength in 7 days often times much higher If you are pouring on a day with falling temperatures to below freezing, HES might be considered. |
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Posted: 12/30/2021 11:35:04 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I do structural engineering on a lot of houses, but my preference is to work in the utility world doing foundations for powerlines. 1- how early? I've allowed both power poles and houses/buildings a lot earlier than 28 days, you should be at 90% or so of your final strength after 2 week. 80% after a week. Your foundation is designed for the one time ever that a fat woman is carrying a piano across the floor while there's some snow load on the roof. You are just find for construction loads before design strength of concrete.... usually. That said, I don't know what your foundation was designed like, what your soils are like and how good the foundation placement was, so I can't 'approve' anything like that without a shitload more info as well as without actually being 'your' engineer. I'm just saying what I've done in the past and why. 2- taking care of exterior insulation sucks, don't do it. Just do it right, there's a reason we do it the way we do. You'd be likely to create a lot of problems with exterior insulation. 3- Tee what into it? Another foundation wall? Wood framing? Old foundation into new? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I'm thinking about doing a 17' x 17' addition. The foundation will be poured 10" thick concrete to match the rest of the house. I have a few questions: 1. The contractor is almost certainly going to want to start building before the textbook 28-day cure time. What admixtures could I put in the spec and/or would spec'ing 5000 PSI concrete ensure that backfilling after say only 7 days doesn't weaken the wall? In case this sounds nutty, I have personally heard of a builder in this area blowing in a poured wall and nearly killing guys who were working in the basement when he backfilled prematurely. Additionally, one of my neighbor's basement walls cracked and he started taking in water. His walls cured 7 days when the house was built while mine cured 28 days (I requested that the builder do this and to my near shock, he did it). 2. The local building code requires that basement walls be insulated. I do not like batts of insulation on my basement walls. I do not much like foam, either. My thinking is that walls with insulation hanging from them are like having no walls at all i.e. you can't do anything with them (shelves, wall-mounted workbench, electrical, etc.). Can I have the contractor put foam insulation on the OUTSIDE of the walls? 3. What is the proper way to Tee into existing foundation walls? Thanks for any replies. I do structural engineering on a lot of houses, but my preference is to work in the utility world doing foundations for powerlines. 1- how early? I've allowed both power poles and houses/buildings a lot earlier than 28 days, you should be at 90% or so of your final strength after 2 week. 80% after a week. Your foundation is designed for the one time ever that a fat woman is carrying a piano across the floor while there's some snow load on the roof. You are just find for construction loads before design strength of concrete.... usually. That said, I don't know what your foundation was designed like, what your soils are like and how good the foundation placement was, so I can't 'approve' anything like that without a shitload more info as well as without actually being 'your' engineer. I'm just saying what I've done in the past and why. 2- taking care of exterior insulation sucks, don't do it. Just do it right, there's a reason we do it the way we do. You'd be likely to create a lot of problems with exterior insulation. 3- Tee what into it? Another foundation wall? Wood framing? Old foundation into new? Agree with these answers to #! And #2 |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 8:44:05 AM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Build 2x4 walls (with a 2x4PT bottom plate) around the inside of the foundation walls after the subfloor is framed. Set the 2x4 walls to have a 1/2” gap from the wall. Apply insulation to the stud wall cavities. Thanks for the advice. I don't want to do that for several reasons. 1. It chews up a lot of square footage. More than people think. 2. It hides (possible future) leaks. 3. I just prefer bare concrete for a basement workshop and storage. I am one with the Tapcon, lol. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 9:35:45 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Do the pins need to be epoxied into the holes? Every job I have ever been on require pins to be epoxied and the walls could not be back filled until the floor system was built. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 9:37:27 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Every job I have ever been on require pins to be epoxied and the walls could not be back filled until the floor system was built. Thanks. How does one ensure that the tee, which is a cold joint, does not leak? |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 10:09:18 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Bingo. There is nothing like a strength test to determine actual, not theoretical, strength. Nothing moves forward until the cylinders say so. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Pay to have some cylinders broke, make sure excessive water for workability wasn't added. That will tell you the quality of the mix. Bingo. There is nothing like a strength test to determine actual, not theoretical, strength. Nothing moves forward until the cylinders say so. If you're so worried about the quality of the load the truck brings, then you're using the wrong contractor. I drive a mixer truck and a quality contractor will want it at the exact slump he ordered it at. This is why you don't cheap out on the contractor. Point being, having a load tested for a simple home addition is ridiculous. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 10:09:21 AM EDT
[#33]
Use miradri foundation waterproofing membrane or an equivalent product. You want to prevent water from getting into the joint at all.
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Posted: 12/31/2021 10:12:15 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Not at all. Where can the rebar pins go? They can only go as deep as the hole is drilled, they can't come out because have you ever driven a 1/2" pin into a 1/2" hole? They can't go left, right, up, or down because...reasons. You guys that are calling for a test cylinder are really overthinking this. Funny, I made my reply above before I read your post. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 10:19:03 AM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Every job I have ever been on require pins to be epoxied and the walls could not be back filled until the floor system was built. Wet stick the rods. Back filling is ok within a week in above freezing temps. Back filling/with stone that is. finish grade/getting equipment close to the dig will push the wall |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 10:28:17 AM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks for the advice. I don't want to do that for several reasons. 1. It chews up a lot of square footage. More than people think. 2. It hides (possible future) leaks. 3. I just prefer bare concrete for a basement workshop and storage. I am one with the Tapcon, lol. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Build 2x4 walls (with a 2x4PT bottom plate) around the inside of the foundation walls after the subfloor is framed. Set the 2x4 walls to have a 1/2" gap from the wall. Apply insulation to the stud wall cavities. Thanks for the advice. I don't want to do that for several reasons. 1. It chews up a lot of square footage. More than people think. 2. It hides (possible future) leaks. 3. I just prefer bare concrete for a basement workshop and storage. I am one with the Tapcon, lol. I see keep it on. You can glue the insulation to the walls and tape the joints and seal the perimeter. Built a steel stud wall right in front of this, using 2 1/2 inch 20 guage equall studs. At the bottom plate, use a 1/2 inch of PVC trim below the track to keep the metal off the concrete. Sheath this in 1/2 ply. Hang all the shelves you want in your dry and insulated basement. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 10:37:09 AM EDT
[#37]
Any thought on prefab wall sections? (Superior walls?)
Goes up in a day, can start decking right away, insulated from the factory. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 10:39:39 AM EDT
[#38]
Insulated Concrete Forms
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Posted: 12/31/2021 10:47:15 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Any thought on prefab wall sections? (Superior walls?) Goes up in a day, can start decking right away, insulated from the factory. Not trying to be a dick, but they're fine. If you're building Section 8 housing. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 10:52:25 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Don't forget to install piles down to bedrock. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: May also have to underpin the existing foundation with helical piers. Don't forget to install piles down to bedrock. And #7 bar e.w. 8”o.c.... 
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Posted: 12/31/2021 10:57:10 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Insulated Concrete Forms Gross |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 10:57:41 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If you're so worried about the quality of the load the truck brings, then you're using the wrong contractor. I drive a mixer truck and a quality contractor will want it at the exact slump he ordered it at. This is why you don't cheap out on the contractor. Point being, having a load tested for a simple home addition is ridiculous. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Pay to have some cylinders broke, make sure excessive water for workability wasn't added. That will tell you the quality of the mix. Bingo. There is nothing like a strength test to determine actual, not theoretical, strength. Nothing moves forward until the cylinders say so. If you're so worried about the quality of the load the truck brings, then you're using the wrong contractor. I drive a mixer truck and a quality contractor will want it at the exact slump he ordered it at. This is why you don't cheap out on the contractor. Point being, having a load tested for a simple home addition is ridiculous. LOLYEP. Some of the replies here make me chuckle. Epoxy the rebar pins in the existing wall? Why? Where are they going to go? Whether those pins are epoxied or not, if they pull out, you've got 1,000,000 problems and not one of them is the lack of epoxy. Test cylinders? For residential work? LOL. Extra piers? Why? As MARINE said above, the best way to assure the concrete work is done right is to hire a quality general contractor, because the concrete contractor is working for the GC and wants to continue working for the GC, so the job will be done reasonably well. That goes for any subcontractor too. But this is Arfcom, so I understand that everybody here is his own GC and has built their own million dollar mansion complete with five bay garage and 3,000sf detached workshop. 
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Posted: 12/31/2021 11:16:00 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: LOLYEP. Some of the replies here make me chuckle. Epoxy the rebar pins in the existing wall? Why? Where are they going to go? Whether those pins are epoxied or not, if they pull out, you've got 1,000,000 problems and not one of them is the lack of epoxy. Test cylinders? For residential work? LOL. Extra piers? Why? As MARINE said above, the best way to assure the concrete work is done right is to hire a quality general contractor, because the concrete contractor is working for the GC and wants to continue working for the GC, so the job will be done reasonably well. That goes for any subcontractor too. But this is Arfcom, so I understand that everybody here is his own GC and has built their own million dollar mansion complete with five bay garage and 3,000sf detached workshop. We obviously don't know anything about his concrete supplier and the mixer drivers, have dealt w/ same concrete company over 40 year time span and have gotten bad loads due to driver mistakes, bad batching etc. so anything is possible. Most of my yardage was utility street cuts and most loads were fine but did have some bad ones. If supplier is gtg then no problem, don't test. Probably biggest issue now is freezing the green concrete. |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 11:17:43 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thanks. How does one ensure that the tee, which is a cold joint, does not leak? you will need some kind of water proofing like a spray on tar or miradri https://metrosealant.com/product/miradri-860-861-carlisle-self-adhering-sheet-membrane/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlrnuyKCO9QIVA56GCh1Z9wD2EAYYAiABEgI1ZvD_BwE. After that you should apply drain board to protect the membrane and funnel water to your foundation drain. https://www.emisupply.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1847_3256_3646&products_id=66512 It can get a little expensive but you want to stop the water from getting in. Think of it as spending a few thousand now or 10 of thousands of dollars later. Also make sure your foundation drain is covered with at least a foot of wash stone but two feet is better and then cover your stone with filter fabric. Make sure your drain runs down hill away from your foundation and it is also a good time to install gutter drains as well. I suggest using solid sch40 4in PVC for the gutter drains and perforated sch 40 4inch pvc for the foundation drain. The advantage of using PVC is that it doesn't collapse like the corrugated black pipe will do over time and stop working. Do not run the foundation and gutter drains in the same pipe |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 11:18:43 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Gross That may be the case. He is worried about time & insulation. Kills 2 birds with one stone. Not saying its what I'd do for me |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 11:20:40 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: We obviously don't know anything about his concrete supplier and the mixer drivers, have dealt w/ same concrete company over 40 year time span and have gotten bad loads due to driver mistakes, bad batching etc. so anything is possible. Most of my yardage was utility street cuts and most loads were fine but did have some bad ones. If supplier is gtg then no problem, don't test. Probably biggest issue now is freezing the green concrete. Leave forms on, cover with insulating blankets. If it takes 1 week in summmer/fall, 2 weeks in winter or whatever makes you feel good |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 11:23:39 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Don't forget to install piles down to bedrock. Why? are we building on fill? 
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Posted: 12/31/2021 11:31:05 AM EDT
[#48]
10" concrete?
You trying to service tanks on that slab or something? |
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Posted: 12/31/2021 12:03:21 PM EDT
[#49]
Read the whole thread.
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Posted: 12/31/2021 12:10:05 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Read the whole thread. I don’t understand why people thought I was talking about the floor as opposed to the walls. |
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