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Posted: 1/29/2023 9:37:51 PM EST
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Shut off water. Replace sharkbite elbow. Check for leaks. Maybe the seal in the elbow is bad? They make tools to remove those fittings. Should take 5 minutes. Also check the pipe to make sure there's no cuts or abrasions where the sharkbite seal sits on the pipe.
Eta. Something like this tool Failed To Load Product Data |
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Quoted: Shut off water. Replace sharkbite elbow. Check for leaks. Maybe the seal in the elbow is bad? They make tools to remove those fittings. Should take 5 minutes. Also check the pipe to make sure there's no cuts or abrasions where the sharkbite seal sits on the pipe. Eta. Something like this tool www.amazon.com/dp/B07K132KSL View Quote |
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Another for shutting off the water and replacing the sharkbite. Quickest and cheapest method.
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I assume the black pipe coming through the foundation is your water inlet. Are you on city water or well? Do you know how to shut the water off? If so then follow the instructions above. Make sure when you reconnect the pipe with the shark bite that you fully stab the pipe in the fitting. You may want to mark a line on your pipe to the distance it should sink in for reference. Or if you know how to plumb and fix it right, put a compression or flare angle valve by fip and put a pex adapter in the top.
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Sharkbite fitting should be temporary. Replace it with a crimp fitting.
You can probably buy a crimp tool for the cost of calling a plumber out to do the 2 minute job the builder should have done correctly to start with. |
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Quoted: I assume the black pipe coming through the foundation is your water inlet. Are you on city water or well? Do you know how to shut the water off? If so then follow the instructions above. Make sure when you reconnect the pipe with the shark bite that you fully stab the pipe in the fitting. You may want to mark a line on your pipe to the distance it should sink in for reference. Or if you know how to plumb and fix it right, put a compression or flare angle valve by fip and put a pex adapter in the top. View Quote Correct, black through the foundation is the water inlet. City water. I know how to shut it off, but it's at the street and is 4' in the ground and has a penta-head bolt on it, so I don't think the city wants me there. No matter, I can do it, I've done it before. The house is less than three years old. I know people hate shark bite but damn, leaking this soon? I'd rather not have to deal with it again. Can you link me to the fittings that would have been used before shark bites came around enabling lazy builders? |
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Quoted: Sharkbite fitting should be temporary. Replace it with a crimp fitting. You can probably buy a crimp tool for the cost of calling a plumber out to do the 2 minute job the builder should have done correctly to start with. View Quote Which type of crimp fitting? I have no issue buying tools. I have an M12 Pex expander, granted that's not helping me if crimping is my only option here. |
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The weight on the line of causing the fitting to be out of alignment.
Looking at it, you can see the side away from the wall has the blue pex pulling away from the o-ring seal in the bottom of the sharkbite. |
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Quoted: The weight on the line of causing the fitting to be out of alignment. Looking at it, you can see the side away from the wall has the blue pex pulling away from the o-ring seal in the bottom of the sharkbite. View Quote There is zero weight on it. That's just the natural bend to the pex. There is a relief clamp that is screwed into the foundation and cinched onto the pex just outside of that picture. |
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Quoted: Correct, black through the foundation is the water inlet. City water. I know how to shut it off, but it's at the street and is 4' in the ground and has a penta-head bolt on it, so I don't think the city wants me there. No matter, I can do it, I've done it before. The house is less than three years old. I know people hate shark bite but damn, leaking this soon? I'd rather not have to deal with it again. Can you link me to the fittings that would have been used before shark bites came around enabling lazy builders? View Quote The Pentahead bolt can be undone with a pair of channel lock type pliers, just grab tight and turn to the left. Or hammer on a socket that's close enough to grab it. You will then see a pit with your meter, there should be a ball type valve one one side or the other of the meter. Turn it till you line up both holes where a lock will go. Depressurize you shit and replace the shark bite. Look on your pex to see what size you need, probably 1" or 3/4". I'm not sure what type of pipe is coming through the wall but if a shark bite held it, I would use another. If not try brass pex elbow with a crimp tool. |
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If that’s your water main and the only shutoff is at the street, you might want to add a shutoff inside when you replace the fitting with something better. It could make your life easier if you have to do future plumbing work. Unless there is some code reason not to have one inside.
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Quoted: There is zero weight on it. That's just the natural bend to the pex. There is a relief clamp that is screwed into the foundation and cinched onto the pex just outside of that picture. View Quote Mark a line with a sharpie around the pipe where it connects to the shark bite. Remove the shark bite using a pex remover tool or a pair of smooth jaw adjustable pliers, if you know how. I would bet the leak is from an uneven cut, burr, or it is not stabbed in the fitting far enough. |
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Quoted: If that’s your water main and the only shutoff is at the street, you might want to add a shutoff inside when you replace the fitting with something better. It could make your life easier if you have to do future plumbing work. View Quote The shutoff is directly above the elbow. I'd have to crimp the shutoff onto whatever this black tubing is. Anybody know what it's called? It's all black and has a blue stripe along the length of it. 3/4" btw. |
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Would add a shut off right there on the black pipe.
That sharkbite looks off at the pex pipe as the others have said. |
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If that is the water inlet to your house and the shutoff is a pain....perhaps adding a shutoff valve at that leak point area would help in the future. Maybe at a different spot where it can be attached to wood.
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Quoted: The shutoff is directly above the elbow. I'd have to crimp the shutoff onto whatever this black tubing is. Anybody know what it's called? It's all black and has a blue stripe along the length of it. 3/4" btw. View Quote What year was the house built? It is probably some type of underground pex, poly, or abs pipe. A crimp fitting may or may not work on it. It looks like there is enough room to try and if it fails, cut if off and slap another shark bite on it. |
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If it were me? I would put a valve inline before that elbow while I’m at it.. That way you can service every single fitting in your house with out having to go outside to shut the water off..
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Quoted: If it were me? I would put a valve inline before that elbow while I’m at it.. That way you can service every single fitting in your house with out having to go outside to shut the water off.. View Quote My luck the ball valve would fail. This is the ONLY fitting before the shutoff inside. |
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I bet thats HDPE pipe in copper tube size and not PEX which is why they used a sharkbite to transition. PEX fittings will not work.
I'd buy the HDPE specific Ford fitting with male thread into a female PEX fitting. ETA: Looked at second picture, probably going to have to stick to the sharkbite as I doubt there's a HDPE Ford fitting in a 90, worth a look though. |
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Quoted: Which type of crimp fitting? I have no issue buying tools. I have an M12 Pex expander, granted that's not helping me if crimping is my only option here. View Quote Just a standard pex crimp fitting. Can’t tell from the pic but the blue looks to be Pex B. The black is CTS size but black is typically HDPE. Even if the blue is Pex A you can still crimp it. Unless the black pipe is some type of Pex A you won’t be able to expand it. Pick up a crimp 90, two rings and a crimp tool from a Big Box for the size pipe you have there. And yes you can crimp HDPE as long as it’s SDR9 so the ID is the same as Pex. |
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Quoted: My luck the ball valve would fail. This is the ONLY fitting before the shutoff inside. View Quote It sounds like you have main shut off already just above that elbow, no need for another. Make sure you mark your pipe and undo the shark bite with a shark bite tool. I bet it wasn't stabbed in enough or is cut crooked. If you want to buy a crimp tool, it would be a better connection. You will still have enough of the black pipe to cut the crimp off and use another shark bite if it doesn't work. Edit: Both the posters above me have good advice. Crimp tool https://www.homedepot.com/p/Apollo-3-8-in-to-1-in-1-Hand-PEX-B-Pinch-Clamp-Tool-69PTBJ0010C/301921125 |
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I usually use barbed fittings in polyethylene pipe coming I to the house
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6 TRICKS To Remove A Sharkbite Fitting (New Tricks!) | GOT2LEARN Beginners Guide To SHARKBITE Fittings (Watch till end BEFORE Buying!) | GOT2LEARN |
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If you loosen the bracket holding it to the wall and place a block and shims under the bottom of the elbow to hold it up just while you push the blue pex a bit further down into the fitting, as well as square it up. Your leak may simply be from the slight misalignment, combined with it being inserted not quite deep enough.
Super simple to try, with no real risk. |
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Quoted: Just a standard pex crimp fitting. Can’t tell from the pic but the blue looks to be Pex B. The black is CTS size but black is typically HDPE. Even if the blue is Pex A you can still crimp it. Unless the black pipe is some type of Pex A you won’t be able to expand it. Pick up a crimp 90, two rings and a crimp tool from a Big Box for the size pipe you have there. And yes you can crimp HDPE as long as it’s SDR9 so the ID is the same as Pex. View Quote PEX is PEX A. See updated pic above. House is all expansion fittings with ONE exception, the one leaking. So I can use a crimp Pex fitting on HDPE? The ID is the same? Okay I'll look at getting a fitting in the morning. |
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Get an HDPE 3/4" barbed elbow that is 3/4" female thread on one side.
Barbed fitting will install with a hose clamp. Pick up PEX A to male 3/4 adapter. |
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If you have some slack in the blue line just pull it out and replace the sharkbite. Sharkbites are fine to use. Just need to be used properly. Cut the pipe straight with no burrs. And make sure there's no sideways pressure on the fitting. Pretty sure that's what's causing the leak.
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View Quote Video is really deceiving, you are not going to have the advantage of using the end of the shark bite fitting to pull against, although those techniques will work, its going to be much harder with another pipe attached to the other end of the shark bite fitting. |
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Quoted: Video is really deceiving, you are not going to have the advantage of using the end of the shark bite fitting to pull against, although those techniques will work, its going to be much harder with another pipe attached to the other end of the shark bite fitting. View Quote I could get that fitting undone on both sides in less that 5 seconds. I bet the main comes through the basement wall at about waist height then elbows up and goes the the floor joist which is probably 8'. There will be plenty of flex. I guarantee you the pex is cut crooked or not stabbed in enough. Just replace the shark bite with another. If a crimp fitting doesn't work or you fuck the barb fitting up, you will be chasing the pipe in your foundation before you know it. Depressurize the line then shut the main off so your hole house isn't draining on you when you undo the fitting. |
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The builder should be shot for using that black poly shit, fuckin shit isn't even good for sprinklers. Dipshit probably ran it from the meter. Oh, isn't that nice, it comes through the wall about an inch, fuggin jagoff.
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Did you verify it is the shark bite elbow and not the fitting directly above it?
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Cut that shit out. Add a shut off with a T and 2nd valveto drain. Thats fkn retarded.
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Have you identified the leak? Is it on the black pipe side or the blue pex side?
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Welding HDPE fittings is best - however the tools are expensive , unless can rent or borrow .
If so a welded HDPE to mpt . If no tool , then a barbed fitting for the HDPE and an expansion for the pex . |
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You want one of these guys
Shark bite style fittings are not meant for HDPE/Driscoll inlet pipe You need a copper tube size compression fitting with a stainless insert sleeve…never leak Then fit up the rest of the pex as normal I would never use crimp style fittings vs expandable Expandable is better in every way https://www.ferguson.com/product/ay-mcdonald-1-in-cts-compression-x-fip-brass-ball-valve-curb-stop-m76102wqg/_/R-3764779?fromplp=true&trackSignal=true |
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Do you have an expansion tank on the cold side of your water heater? If so, has it failed?
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Quoted: You want one of these guys Shark bite style fittings are not meant for HDPE/Driscoll inlet pipe You need a copper tube size compression fitting with a stainless insert sleeve…never leak Then fit up the rest of the pex as normal I would never use crimp style fittings vs expandable Expandable is better in every way https://www.ferguson.com/product/ay-mcdonald-1-in-cts-compression-x-fip-brass-ball-valve-curb-stop-m76102wqg/_/R-3764779?fromplp=true&trackSignal=true View Quote $120 for a mother loving fitting!? |
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Quoted: Quoted: You want one of these guys Shark bite style fittings are not meant for HDPE/Driscoll inlet pipe You need a copper tube size compression fitting with a stainless insert sleeve…never leak Then fit up the rest of the pex as normal I would never use crimp style fittings vs expandable Expandable is better in every way https://www.ferguson.com/product/ay-mcdonald-1-in-cts-compression-x-fip-brass-ball-valve-curb-stop-m76102wqg/_/R-3764779?fromplp=true&trackSignal=true $120 for a mother loving fitting!? It’s literally the best fitting you can get for the application and I’m serious when I say NEVER gonna leak or come apart. Buy once cry ya da ya da |
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After you get done fixing it with duct tape just sell the house
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