User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:05:44 AM EST
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Keep in mind that depending on when your vehicle was made newer specs may have been developed based on engines blowing up. Direct injection turbocharged vehicles in particular. For these engines oil is very critical in preventing low speed preignition and carbon buildup. It’s not just about wear characteristics. Fuck I hate typing on my phone. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: If it meets or exceeds the specs required by the manufacturer of my vehicle, whatever is on sale or cheapest. Keep in mind that depending on when your vehicle was made newer specs may have been developed based on engines blowing up. Direct injection turbocharged vehicles in particular. For these engines oil is very critical in preventing low speed preignition and carbon buildup. It’s not just about wear characteristics. Fuck I hate typing on my phone. LSPI has to deal with the amount of calcium in the add pack. This was addressed with the SN+ change over, about 4 years ago now. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:07:18 AM EST
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Mobil 1 I have driven over a million miles for work over 20 plus years, and have NEVER had an issue (two vehicles over 300,000) This. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:08:13 AM EST
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Any name brand on sale. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:10:19 AM EST
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I did just put a fram on the wife's car. Is she going to die???? It was all walmart had for her car. She got fram and mobil 1. My F150 gets Motorcraft oil and OEM filters. Not saying that's best, just saying that's what I use. Im not sure I am smart enough to tell the difference from one brand to the next. If it's a Fram Ultra, no, its probably the best filter on the market. I'm partial to WIX XP though. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:10:33 AM EST
[#5]
I use the cheap shit. Never had engine failure. The salt will get them first no matter what you do here in PA.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:13:37 AM EST
[#6]
For an EB Mustang? Amsoil in the recommended weight. I ran Amsoil exclusively when I owned my GT500. It was the only oil that didnt induce a tick (mobil 1, motorcraft full syn and redline to an extent did), and didnt appear to lose its viscosity when I changed the oil. Its not cheap, but its the only oil I tried and trusted to beat the daylights out of my engine.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:14:55 AM EST
[#7]
So what is the story on the Kirkland oil? I bought a couple of boxes for the '97 Vette with the LS1 engine.
My funeral, I know...  By the way, I got rid of the BoomerChromies and got some FlowOnes in a Plus 1 config. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:19:05 AM EST
[#8]
 Where does synthetic base oil come from ? Who is the largest synthetic base oil supplier to the US ? Who are the top 4 world suppliers of synthetic base oil and how many brands do they sell to ? Additives & viscosity based on fuel burned, internal parts metallurgy and general temperatures. There is a reason there are manufacturing specs. Any oil within that recommended specification is GTG. Longevity comes from the additives that increase the specification above the manufacturer specs…see above. Longevity of the engine is not a priority in any way. Meeting the emission standard is ! Buy within spec or above..From most well known brands and you are there. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:19:54 AM EST
[#9]
Like you said. At 5 k it doesn't matter.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:20:35 AM EST
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So what is the story on the Kirkland oil? I bought a couple of boxes for the '97 Vette with the LS1 engine. My funeral, I know... https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/442506/20211117_150645_HDR-2171251.jpg By the way, I got rid of the BoomerChromies and got some FlowOnes in a Plus 1 config. Do you wear jean shorts with a tucked in polo, white new balance shoes with knee high socks? |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:21:07 AM EST
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: So what is the story on the Kirkland oil? I bought a couple of boxes for the '97 Vette with the LS1 engine. My funeral, I know... https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/442506/20211117_150645_HDR-2171251.jpg By the way, I got rid of the BoomerChromies and got some FlowOnes in a Plus 1 config. Id love C5 or C6 to turn into a freeway roll racer....big ass Vortech or Procharger on corn= 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:23:49 AM EST
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: LSPI has to deal with the amount of calcium in the add pack. This was addressed with the SN+ change over, about 4 years ago now. That does not address what oil is specified in the manual. Which is where most would check to see what their manufacturer recommends. The manual and vehicle could be manufactured before the sn+ standard became a thing. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:26:02 AM EST
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That does not address what oil is specified in the manual. Which is where most would check to see what their manufacturer recommends. The manual and vehicle could be manufactured before the sn+ standard became a thing. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: LSPI has to deal with the amount of calcium in the add pack. This was addressed with the SN+ change over, about 4 years ago now. That does not address what oil is specified in the manual. Which is where most would check to see what their manufacturer recommends. The manual and vehicle could be manufactured before the sn+ standard became a thing. Older generations of additives are normally not manufactured for gasoline engines. So as long as you’re buying a fairly name brand oil, it would be SN+ Or SP. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:26:06 AM EST
[#14]
Rotella T6. Love me some zinc!
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:26:45 AM EST
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Where does synthetic base oil come from ? Who is the largest synthetic base oil supplier to the US ? Who are the top 4 world suppliers of synthetic base oil and how many brands do they sell to ? Additives & viscosity based on fuel burned, internal parts metallurgy and general temperatures. There is a reason there are manufacturing specs. Any oil within that recommended specification is GTG. Longevity comes from the additives that increase the specification above the manufacturer specs…see above. Longevity of the engine is not a priority in any way. Meeting the emission standard is ! Buy within spec or above..From most well known brands and you are there. I mean, do you want the short answer or the long answer to the base oil question? |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:29:28 AM EST
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If it's a Fram Ultra, no, its probably the best filter on the market. I'm partial to WIX XP though. I am sure she will be fine. I get a kick out of GDs flat out HATRED for fram filters......... |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:31:37 AM EST
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted: LSPI has to deal with the amount of calcium in the add pack. This was addressed with the SN+ change over, about 4 years ago now. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: If it meets or exceeds the specs required by the manufacturer of my vehicle, whatever is on sale or cheapest. Keep in mind that depending on when your vehicle was made newer specs may have been developed based on engines blowing up. Direct injection turbocharged vehicles in particular. For these engines oil is very critical in preventing low speed preignition and carbon buildup. It’s not just about wear characteristics. Fuck I hate typing on my phone. LSPI has to deal with the amount of calcium in the add pack. This was addressed with the SN+ change over, about 4 years ago now. Thre is more paralysis by analysis in GD oil threads than almost any other topic. It's just not something to overthink. So much emotional energy is spent on arguing one oil or another you could power a small town. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:32:04 AM EST
[#18]
Driving habit will matter more than the oil you use. The biggest issue I can see is when people running a turbo motor arrive at their destination after getting the turbo good and heat soaked and immediately kill the engine. While the turbo is nice and hot you stop circulation of the oil and the oil sits in the hot turbo. This will degrade the oil faster and begin in a sense seasoning the inside of the turbo. Those with turbos on your engines let the car sit for just a bit and the turbo cool down especially if you were building boost. Even 30 secs will help the turbo cool down a bit if you can swing 1 minute of cool down will help the oil not breakdown as quickly. Also 5K is kind of early by todays standards of oil most all synthetics will easily do 10K. I change mine when the oil change % drops to 10% or lower and that amounts to just about 6-6500K
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:32:41 AM EST
[#19]
Using Mobil 1 and a Wix XP filter make me feel good inside...
 - Clint |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:37:55 AM EST
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Older generations of additives are normally not manufactured for gasoline engines. So as long as you’re buying a fairly name brand oil, it would be SN+ Or SP. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: LSPI has to deal with the amount of calcium in the add pack. This was addressed with the SN+ change over, about 4 years ago now. That does not address what oil is specified in the manual. Which is where most would check to see what their manufacturer recommends. The manual and vehicle could be manufactured before the sn+ standard became a thing. Older generations of additives are normally not manufactured for gasoline engines. So as long as you’re buying a fairly name brand oil, it would be SN+ Or SP. @Foxtrot08 let me ask you this, are older standards even still available? For example would you even find SM, or SJ oil on the shelf (at a fairly reputable store, not the dollar store). And if not, then aren't you by default buying the latest standards from whichever oil manufacturer? |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:38:14 AM EST
[#21]
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:38:45 AM EST
[#22]
Schaeffers
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:43:40 AM EST
[#23]
Even two years ago there were more sn rated oils on the shelf than sn+.
Saying to just grab an oil based on manufacturer recommendations is not enough. Guaranteed there are still oils not meeting sn+ Or better standards still on the shelf. Sn+ also does not fully address the carbon buildup issue. If you don’t mind paying thousands to have your engine serviced because of carbon on your intake valves then by all means, use whatever oil you want. It’ll be good enough at preventing wear, which is all oil does in a high tech engine, right? /s |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:46:33 AM EST
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Any name brand on sale. This. Cheapest is best. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:48:33 AM EST
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: @Foxtrot08 let me ask you this, are older standards even still available? For example would you even find SM, or SJ oil on the shelf (at a fairly reputable store, not the dollar store). And if not, then aren't you by default buying the latest standards from whichever oil manufacturer? Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: LSPI has to deal with the amount of calcium in the add pack. This was addressed with the SN+ change over, about 4 years ago now. That does not address what oil is specified in the manual. Which is where most would check to see what their manufacturer recommends. The manual and vehicle could be manufactured before the sn+ standard became a thing. Older generations of additives are normally not manufactured for gasoline engines. So as long as you’re buying a fairly name brand oil, it would be SN+ Or SP. @Foxtrot08 let me ask you this, are older standards even still available? For example would you even find SM, or SJ oil on the shelf (at a fairly reputable store, not the dollar store). And if not, then aren't you by default buying the latest standards from whichever oil manufacturer? The only regularly made SJ product I know of is Honda oil for their powersports unit. We still sell a lot of Honda 10w40 SJ spec. All to power sports - atvs / dirt bikes / etc. it’s specifically made for them by p66 and indemitsu. I know there are some boutique blenders (amsoil / Lucas / etc.) that mimic old spec’s but don’t actually claim to meet them. So yeah. If you’re buying licensed product from a normal store, you’re probably buying the latest generation of specs by default. At least within ~6 months of the change over. I know there are rules set by API that govern how long you have for change over. I think we bought the last of the P66/Kendall case goods that were SN plus, in July of 2020. And SP came out in May of 2020. But here’s the real pro tip: It’s a rolling change over. The SP additive package actually hit the floor in blenders in January/February of 2020. Most blenders were done using SN+ additives in March / April of 2020. Using SP additives then. That way when may 1st 2020 rolled around, you switched the tank labels and the paperwork - blamo. Everything was SP / GF6. Now the problem is case goods. It takes a while to clear out things in warehouses and such. Thus why we bought the rest of the Sn+ stuff out in July at a discount. But by now everything should be taken care of. Sn+ was even more extensive. Everyone knew of the LSPI issues for years before the SN+ change over. It was the basis for Dexos 1 Gen 2. So additive packages adjusted accordingly over a year before the 2018 SN+ change over. Probably even 2 years before. So when that change hit, it was not a shock to anyone. Or even a big deal. The SM to SN change over was a nightmare. Because the formulas weren’t supposed to be mixed in bulk. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:50:03 AM EST
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Even two years ago there were more sn rated oils on the shelf than sn+. Saying to just grab an oil based on manufacturer recommendations is not enough. Guaranteed there are still oils not meeting sn+ Or better standards still on the shelf. Sn+ also does not fully address the carbon buildup issue. If you don’t mind paying thousands to have your engine serviced because of carbon on your intake valves then by all means, use whatever oil you want. It’ll be good enough at preventing wear, which is all oil does in a high tech engine, right? /s By carbon build up, you mean NOACK again? And I also guarantee you’re wrong about oils not meeting SN+ on the shelf. As I know all the people that make 90% of what’s on the shelf. Personally. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:51:31 AM EST
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Any name brand on sale. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 11:56:19 AM EST
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: The only regularly made SJ product I know of is Honda oil for their powersports unit. We still sell a lot of Honda 10w40 SJ spec. All to power sports - atvs / dirt bikes / etc. it’s specifically made for them by p66 and indemitsu. I know there are some boutique blenders (amsoil / Lucas / etc.) that mimic old spec’s but don’t actually claim to meet them. So yeah. If you’re buying licensed product from a normal store, you’re probably buying the latest generation of specs by default. At least within ~6 months of the change over. I know there are rules set by API that govern how long you have for change over. I think we bought the last of the P66/Kendall case goods that were SN plus, in July of 2020. And SP came out in May of 2020. But here’s the real pro tip: It’s a rolling change over. The SP additive package actually hit the floor in blenders in January/February of 2020. Most blenders were done using SN+ additives in March / April of 2020. Using SP additives then. That way when may 1st 2020 rolled around, you switched the tank labels and the paperwork - blamo. Everything was SP / GF6. Now the problem is case goods. It takes a while to clear out things in warehouses and such. Thus why we bought the rest of the Sn+ stuff out in July at a discount. But by now everything should be taken care of. Sn+ was even more extensive. Everyone knew of the LSPI issues for years before the SN+ change over. It was the basis for Dexos 1 Gen 2. So additive packages adjusted accordingly over a year before the 2018 SN+ change over. Probably even 2 years before. So when that change hit, it was not a shock to anyone. Or even a big deal. The SM to SN change over was a nightmare. Because the formulas weren’t supposed to be mixed in bulk. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: LSPI has to deal with the amount of calcium in the add pack. This was addressed with the SN+ change over, about 4 years ago now. That does not address what oil is specified in the manual. Which is where most would check to see what their manufacturer recommends. The manual and vehicle could be manufactured before the sn+ standard became a thing. Older generations of additives are normally not manufactured for gasoline engines. So as long as you’re buying a fairly name brand oil, it would be SN+ Or SP. @Foxtrot08 let me ask you this, are older standards even still available? For example would you even find SM, or SJ oil on the shelf (at a fairly reputable store, not the dollar store). And if not, then aren't you by default buying the latest standards from whichever oil manufacturer? The only regularly made SJ product I know of is Honda oil for their powersports unit. We still sell a lot of Honda 10w40 SJ spec. All to power sports - atvs / dirt bikes / etc. it’s specifically made for them by p66 and indemitsu. I know there are some boutique blenders (amsoil / Lucas / etc.) that mimic old spec’s but don’t actually claim to meet them. So yeah. If you’re buying licensed product from a normal store, you’re probably buying the latest generation of specs by default. At least within ~6 months of the change over. I know there are rules set by API that govern how long you have for change over. I think we bought the last of the P66/Kendall case goods that were SN plus, in July of 2020. And SP came out in May of 2020. But here’s the real pro tip: It’s a rolling change over. The SP additive package actually hit the floor in blenders in January/February of 2020. Most blenders were done using SN+ additives in March / April of 2020. Using SP additives then. That way when may 1st 2020 rolled around, you switched the tank labels and the paperwork - blamo. Everything was SP / GF6. Now the problem is case goods. It takes a while to clear out things in warehouses and such. Thus why we bought the rest of the Sn+ stuff out in July at a discount. But by now everything should be taken care of. Sn+ was even more extensive. Everyone knew of the LSPI issues for years before the SN+ change over. It was the basis for Dexos 1 Gen 2. So additive packages adjusted accordingly over a year before the 2018 SN+ change over. Probably even 2 years before. So when that change hit, it was not a shock to anyone. Or even a big deal. The SM to SN change over was a nightmare. Because the formulas weren’t supposed to be mixed in bulk. That's what I thought. Thanks for the explanation. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:00:16 PM EST
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If it's a Fram Ultra, no, its probably the best filter on the market. I'm partial to WIX XP though. Cheap Frams are pure junk. I've been using WIX XP. Great filters. Also, OP, For a turbo engine, after driving the vehicle, it's best to let the engine idle for a minute before shutting it down. This will allow the turbo to cool down a bit. Oil often gets "cooked" in the turbo. As for oil, get a good brand like Mobil 1 and stick with it. Try not to switch brands frequently just because it's on sale. Each brand of oil comes with different additives package. Obviously, it won't kill your engine but transitioning from one package to another may cause some additional engine wear. Frequent oil change is very important. Don't ever trust the oil life indicators some vehicles are equipped with. Change synthetic oil every 5k miles and you'll be fine. The extended oil change intervals suggested by the manufacturers are the result of the pressure from environmental agencies to further reduce pollution index from the vehicles. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:04:14 PM EST
[#30]
I was very impressed with Mobil 1 Annual Protection oil. Gas mileage was noticeably better (yes, hard to believe but true). Engine ran very smoothly. Unfortunately they stopped making it. The new, Extended Performance 20K formulation isn't as good.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:04:26 PM EST
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Cheap Frams are pure junk. I've been using WIX XP. Great filters. Also, OP, For a turbo engine, after driving the vehicle, it's best to let the engine idle for a minute before shutting it down. This will allow the turbo to cool down a bit. Oil often gets "cooked" in the turbo. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: If it's a Fram Ultra, no, its probably the best filter on the market. I'm partial to WIX XP though. Cheap Frams are pure junk. I've been using WIX XP. Great filters. Also, OP, For a turbo engine, after driving the vehicle, it's best to let the engine idle for a minute before shutting it down. This will allow the turbo to cool down a bit. Oil often gets "cooked" in the turbo. You should of stopped there. As for oil, get a good brand like Mobil 1 and stick with it. Try not to switch brands frequently just because it's on sale. Each brand of oil comes with different additives package. Obviously, it won't kill your engine but transitioning from one package to another may cause some additional engine wear. Frequent oil change is very important. Don't ever trust the oil life indicators some vehicles are equipped with. Change synthetic oil every 5k miles and you'll be fine. The extended oil change intervals suggested by the manufacturers are the result of the pressure from environmental agencies to further reduce pollution index from the vehicles. As most of this is bullshit. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:10:03 PM EST
[#32]
Tractor supply had some 5 qt jugs of 5w30 synthetic for 13.99. So my car is getting that this weekend.
The car gets it's oil changed yearly, whether it gets 1k or 5k a year. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:14:44 PM EST
[#33]
Foxtrot told me to use Kendall or Pennzoil Platinum so I get the Platinum because it’s available locally.
I change it every 5K because I pull heavy, idle long time, dusty conditions. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:17:50 PM EST
[#34]
All the choices in your poll are fine OP. I use Mobil 1 because Walmart carries it. I also use the bulk oil my dealer carries. Just change it at the interval your manufacturer recommends.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:22:15 PM EST
[#35]
Mobil 1 extended performance
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:27:14 PM EST
[#36]
Love GD oil threads…
 Along with Foxtrot08 dropping knowledge/facts…  Looks like we might have a “CapnRob vs MrHiggs” going on in this here oil thread. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:27:34 PM EST
[#37]
I use Valvoline because it sounds like vulva. What more do you need?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:30:23 PM EST
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Even two years ago there were more sn rated oils on the shelf than sn+. Saying to just grab an oil based on manufacturer recommendations is not enough. Guaranteed there are still oils not meeting sn+ Or better standards still on the shelf. Sn+ also does not fully address the carbon buildup issue. If you don't mind paying thousands to have your engine serviced because of carbon on your intake valves then by all means, use whatever oil you want. It'll be good enough at preventing wear, which is all oil does in a high tech engine, right? /s Know your audience and their creds Or post some creds of your own. Standing by to see if either come to fruition. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:33:44 PM EST
[#39]
Mobil 1
LiquiMolly Motul |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:34:46 PM EST
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Love GD oil threadshttps://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/367483/purse_fight_gif-2160743.gif Along with Foxtrot08 dropping knowledge/facts https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/367483/boom-404578.gif Looks like we might have a "CapnRob vs MrHiggs" going on in this here oil thread. ETA: @madcap3k Sincerely trying to help. Rather than debate the guy you are debating and trying to correct him, why don't you ask him HOW he knows what he knows. You might learn something today. Have a nice day man. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:35:12 PM EST
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: -snip-  |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:40:42 PM EST
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: By carbon build up, you mean NOACK again? And I also guarantee you’re wrong about oils not meeting SN+ on the shelf. As I know all the people that make 90% of what’s on the shelf. Personally. I have no doubt about your credentials or experience. However, it took me two seconds to find sn rated oil on the shelf at the local hardware store. https://www.menards.com/main/tools/automotive/automotive-maintenance/motor-oil-filters/fvp-reg-conventional-motor-oil-1-quart/5w20-qt/p-1484896867295-c-9112.htm?tid=-3445876253887350417&ipos=5 |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:43:11 PM EST
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have no doubt about your credentials or experience. However, it took me two seconds to find sn rated oil on the shelf at the local hardware store. https://www.menards.com/main/tools/automotive/automotive-maintenance/motor-oil-filters/fvp-reg-conventional-motor-oil-1-quart/5w20-qt/p-1484896867295-c-9112.htm?tid=-3445876253887350417&ipos=5 Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: By carbon build up, you mean NOACK again? And I also guarantee you’re wrong about oils not meeting SN+ on the shelf. As I know all the people that make 90% of what’s on the shelf. Personally. I have no doubt about your credentials or experience. However, it took me two seconds to find sn rated oil on the shelf at the local hardware store. https://www.menards.com/main/tools/automotive/automotive-maintenance/motor-oil-filters/fvp-reg-conventional-motor-oil-1-quart/5w20-qt/p-1484896867295-c-9112.htm?tid=-3445876253887350417&ipos=5 It took me five seconds to google the manufacturer and pull up the product information sheet on the product. Menards hasn’t updated their product description. I’ll actually link it: https://www.fvpparts.com/application/files/1016/1895/0910/FVP_Conventional_Oil_Sell_Sheet_v4.20b21.pdf Edit: Also made by Citgo according to the bottle. Want me to text the president of lubricants for citgo to find out if it was SN plus in 16? Edit 2: I smoke cigars with him all the time and talk to him weekly. We were the first company to buy a transport load of TES668 in the country. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:43:24 PM EST
[#44]
Amsoil signature series
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:44:30 PM EST
[#45]
The one the owner's manual calls for.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:46:28 PM EST
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If it's a Fram Ultra, no, its probably the best filter on the market. I'm partial to WIX XP though. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I did just put a fram on the wife's car. Is she going to die???? It was all walmart had for her car. She got fram and mobil 1. My F150 gets Motorcraft oil and OEM filters. Not saying that's best, just saying that's what I use. Im not sure I am smart enough to tell the difference from one brand to the next. If it's a Fram Ultra, no, its probably the best filter on the market. I'm partial to WIX XP though. Yep, Frame Ultra Synthetic is one of, if not the, best filter on the market. Standard Fram are shit. Same goes for Pennzoil. Their Ultra Platinum Synthetic oil is some of the best on the market and on par with Amsoil. The rest of their lineup is garbage. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:46:46 PM EST
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I have no doubt about your credentials or experience. However, it took me two seconds to find sn rated oil on the shelf at the local hardware store. https://www.menards.com/main/tools/automotive/automotive-maintenance/motor-oil-filters/fvp-reg-conventional-motor-oil-1-quart/5w20-qt/p-1484896867295-c-9112.htm?tid=-3445876253887350417&ipos=5 I am sure somebody out there does this though. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:47:30 PM EST
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Kendall GT-1 MAX This |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:47:31 PM EST
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I am sure she will be fine. I get a kick out of GDs flat out HATRED for fram filters......... Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: If it's a Fram Ultra, no, its probably the best filter on the market. I'm partial to WIX XP though. I am sure she will be fine. I get a kick out of GDs flat out HATRED for fram filters......... All I ever bought for 15 years at least. Never had any related vehicle issues. I tend to buy Wix now, but I am not opposed to Fram, as long as it's not the cheapest one. Forget the name. |
|
|
|
Posted: 11/18/2021 12:47:48 PM EST
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Cheap Frams are pure junk. I've been using WIX XP. Great filters. Also, OP, For a turbo engine, after driving the vehicle, it's best to let the engine idle for a minute before shutting it down. This will allow the turbo to cool down a bit. Oil often gets "cooked" in the turbo. As for oil, get a good brand like Mobil 1 and stick with it. Try not to switch brands frequently just because it's on sale. Each brand of oil comes with different additives package. Obviously, it won't kill your engine but transitioning from one package to another may cause some additional engine wear. Frequent oil change is very important. Don't ever trust the oil life indicators some vehicles are equipped with. Change synthetic oil every 5k miles and you'll be fine. The extended oil change intervals suggested by the manufacturers are the result of the pressure from environmental agencies to further reduce pollution index from the vehicles. I'm talking about Fram Ultras, and needing to cool down a turbo before shutting it off hasn't been needed since the 90's. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
