A good friend of mine sells them most of their base oil.


If you remember their “nex-Gen” product, that was from “re-refined” base oil.

1. It used my company’s formula.

Because 2.  We owned the re-refinery.


They use nearly the same formulations I do in my house brand products. Which, I’m not talking down on. It’s good stuff. Mostly because it’s the same as another major brand name.

Foxtrot do you know of any issues with the newer 2.0L ecoboosts?   The blowby issue with the other engine is interesting because I had convinced myself  that the 10k oil changes were ok.   But I am an actual dumb bitch when it comes to engines and oil.

They still use the same integrated exhaust manifold/turbo set up. Which is an expensive fix when it cracks.

Some carbon build up issues. But wasn’t a gigantic concern.  

They had some issues with blocks in 18/19. Head gaskets popped. And they had a tsb to long block the engine.


Oil wise, no major concerns that I’ve heard of. 9000 mile oil intervals.  So it’s not a super extendo drain.

When I had my Ecobeast Stang my tuner (Adam at TunePlus) recommended Motul and adding in Ceretec with 5k changes.  It went 50k miles at over 500whp before I traded it in for a tacoma.  I use Motul and Ceretec in my truck now.

Amsoil
Shell rotella

that's pretty cool, I found this stuff a while back at walmart for cheap, so I bought it

re-refining? is that taking used motor oil and turning it back to new?

Anything better for zinc content than Brad Penn, Penn Grade? I use it in a big block mopar with a solid flat tappet cam.

Taking used oil, and turning back into good base oils.

This is your group 2+ category of base oils.


It goes through a flash distillation process. Which cooks off the water / glycol / fuels, those are separated out.

After that it depends on the re-refinery.

Older style like KPP East Chicago or Breslau will go through a vacuum separation tower. And basically just like crude, heavier products sink. Lighter products go out to be refined.

After that the commonalities come back. Modern takes on re-refining take the concept of thin film evaporator that is also a sort of distillation column.  Allowing you to skip part of the vacuum separation.  Older ones it’d a basic thin film.  Which makes a base oil and asphalt extender.

After that, the base oil aspect goes through a hydrotreating process. Just like regular base oils.

that's really cool. I never knew that was a thing.

Very religious about the oil in an engine. I trust nobody with oil changes.

I think each engine seems to have a preferred oil. My current engine works very well with Penzoil Ultra Platinum, which is a Ford 5.4.

Pennzoil Platinum is what I used in my Mazdaspeed3 (Turbo 2.3 DI).  UOA showed it did quite well. At the time (Years ago...) It was considered one of the better oils for handling fuel dilution

I've never bought a new vehicle. I buy gently used and usually run them to near death before unloading them.

Also always been an oil change fanatic. Used Valvoline for over 30 years. I've never had an engine oil related failure in all those years. The last ten years I've used the synthetic version.

Been using Quaker State UD for years with a Mobil 1 filter. Car has 130,000 miles on it.

Huge thanks to Foxtrot08 for sharing all his knowledge.

Thanks, I had heard about most of those problems, supposedly they were mostly fixed the last time they refreshed the design except maybe the turbo manifold issue.  Apparently the version they sell in europe uses a two piece manifold but I have no idea if it's also prone to cracking.

The thing with oil dilution on the other engine was news to me and was curious if you knew about similar issues in the 2.0 since the next vehicle I get will have one.  The mazda 3 I drive now eats oil but inconsistently, not sure what that's due to, but I let it go at one point for almost a year and it was 2 quarts down.    Gonna stick to the 3-5 k thing since I do almost exclusively stop and go driving and have a heavy foot.  That should prevent things from getting out of hand.  Thanks again.

I do oil changes myself too.



Penzoil platinum is looking good.
In the OP I said 5k interval, but I'm considering 3k given fuel dilution and potential for carbon build-up.




I didn't plan on buying new, but 2-3 year old used ones with  30-40k miles were priced too close to what I ordered a new one for; also, I wanted a convertible, manual transmission, no rental, no wrecks and disliked seeing oil changes every 9k.
I intend to keep the car indefinitely and I'm a picky ass, so I'm glad I bought new. 0% for 36 months was nice too.

My last two vehicles I bought new and they each have just over 100k miles on them now. I've done all the oil changes on those myself with Vavoline full synthetic every 3-5k (went to 5k after 80,000 miles or so) and those vehicles are going to my teenage boys. At least I'm able to give them each a vehicle that has been maintained.

Ditto.

Let's not forget about Apollo.

https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-apollo-fips-treatment?utm_campaign=p_cf+share-flow-1&utm_medium=copy_link&utm_source=customer

Why are you still here?

Again, the best thing I can advise is test and find out.

Running an oil analysis once a year let’s you make informed decisions. B

Maybe you won’t have much blow by. Maybe your valve guides aren’t leaking oil.  Maybe you won’t have much fuel dilution.

Or maybe you do.  

Only way you can know for sure is oil sampling.

Or do a UOA at the recommended interval and see how your oil is doing every now and then and make an informed decision

Whatever the dealer puts in my 2018 Camry.

I used to change my own oil when I lived in a house, before the divorce. Now I'm in an apartment and don't feel like changing my own oil in the parking lot, so I have the Toyota dealer 5 minutes down the road change my oil...roughly every 10,000 miles, because that's the recommended OCI for my car.  I'm sure they use the Toyota branded stuff, 0W-16.  Works fine.

I actually had time to think about this issue driving today. With OP’s specific engine.


No egr, so where are the deposits coming from?


Through the PCV? Maybe.

But via how the distillation process works, the Chevron page I posted and even the SAE article: Additives won’t really be carried by distilled oil.  At least not well at all.

Alright. So, how about the pcv and dirt getting in through the intake? Extremely possible.

How about the above, and unburnt fuel coming through the pcv as well? As blow by happens both ways, and we know these engines have a problem with fuel dilution.

How about sloppy valve guide fit?

Now we’re getting somewhere.  

Combine all the above. You have the oil vapor pulling dirt in through the intake. You have dirty fuel vapor passing through the crank case and coming in through the pcv. And you could have generally a poor engine fit. Which would explain the drop in viscosity and oil dilution.

The oil on the back side of the valve would get scalded during the combustion sequence. Not burned off.  This would create carbon formations and leave ash.

So is the answer Noack? Not directly. But it doesn’t help. As we know oil myst will trap particles.

As I said. It’s a combination of things.  

But oil leakage via valve guides explains why it shears fast and the increase fuel dilution. As your engine is making oil via fuel blow by.

This would also then build up on the intake side of the engine - the ash from the fuel.

I Googled the whole deal and that's what I learned.

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