FUCK LOGS:

The butt-and-pass method is strong and relatively simple (as well as faster) when compared to some of the other methods. One of the main advantages of the butt-and-pass method is that you don't need to scribe and hand cut each log as you would if you went with a different method.

For chinking, Mr. Ellsworth recommended using portland cement (I know it may sound a little strange but they cover all the How's and Why's in class).
He advised against using modern synthetic chinking, arguing that it trapped moisture in the logs potentially leading to mold, rot and insect  problems.
Mr. Ellsworth taught that with large overhangs and proper design you can minimize many of the maintenance issues related to log homes. He argued log homes have existed long before synthetic chinking, modern sealers and those maintenance contracts the log kit companies always want you to sign.

Are cabins more expensive, more maintenance, more drafty, more buggy? On average, probably yes.

Do you do EVERYTHING in your life for efficiency? Place NO importance on quality of life and enjoyment? Do you have more than one AR15? why, they are expensive to feed and you don't NEED one.

Cabins are a lot like Jeeps, especially the older ones. There are plenty of haters. They are too noisy, expensive, hard to drive, cold, hot, blah, blah, blah.
They sure are fun as hell to drive and use.

If you want to go with maintenance free value, build a stinking cinder block building with floor drains, stainless steel internal fixtures and a tin roof. Damn, that sounds like somewhere I'D LOVE to live

Life's about living. Live a little.

Gotta find the right ones.  Not all Amish are created equal when it comes to home building.



 

Which urge? The ex-GF current Fiancee or the Log Cabin?

Maybe both?

It is very simple.  You google on "building a log cabin".  There are places that sell plans.  Others sell you the material.  Hopefully, you aren't the kind of guy who just takes on a project.  My next door neighbor is like that.  He has now been putting the replacement roof on his house, by himself.  He obtained a permit and has not passed final inspection.  One whole g-d-n year!

advice on building a log cabin start cutting down trees

haha

Heres a way to keep the butt and pass locked in.



We built this cabin in 1999, 20' x 40' with a second story sleeping loft, kept things pretty simple.

It's an awesome place, I could live there ––- but don't.

If I were you, I'd build a bunker.

loghomebuilders.org

You're speaking my language. Couldn't have a cabin without having a CJ-7 parked somewhere close by.



Glad to see that url show up again. I'm enjoying perusing that site.



Gorgeous!



Sorta thinking about just buying a couple acres of standing pine timber and cutting it myself. Not sure about tackling the whole log-peeling thing, though.




This one would only be started after much thought and planning.

My FIL built his own log home in AK.  He used three-sided logs, mostly because that was the simplest method.



If you plan to DIY, three-sided logs would be the simplest method by far.



Have you considered a timber frame building instead of a log building?

Because they are made from chestnut logs, which bugs will not touch.


Chestnut blight put paid to getting any more logs so....

I lived in a log home for 7 years.

loved it.

It was the most expensive home I ever lived in on a cost per sq ft. basis.

to answer your question about logs.

the best system, low maintenance,  no drafts,  no settling, are the laminated logs stacked directly on top of each other glued and lag bolted together with a but n pass corner.   simple to build.   solid as a rock.

Voice of experience.

That said If i were wanting to build a home today on some land I would build a steel sided steel roofed pole barn type house and finish it inside with t&g pine paneling.

No kidding.

With a crew, the shell goes up in a weekend and costs about 14 bucks a foot.

Insulate and finish out the inside at your own pace.   the wood interior is warm and attractive.  The steel exterior is maintenance free for something like 30 years.   If you are handy you could finish it out for less than 30 bucks a sq ft and forget the huge mortgage.

Thats what I would do.  

My elder architect friend calls them wastes of perfectly good trees.  



Its kinda a hobby house. I would rather build a timberframe any day than a log cabin. You still get the nice beams, you get an very solid frame and it can be build tight.

That is pretty much my plan for now.

Watch Little House on the Prairie re-runs.

I'll look for my pics.  Most were taken in 2000-2001 and not digital, hopefully it will inspire you to push forward

http://loghomelinks.com/

Is that applied with a brush?

Didn't see vertical method mentioned:
http://www.alaskacabin.net/
I don't know anything about it other than reading their booklet.

Some general advise for you. IF you have specific questions feel free to ask.

-Find out what materials are common and readily available in your area, as well as their working mechanical properties in relation to your specific desired application. Do this by going to forestry forum .com and asking to meet with sawmill owners in your area. There is a specific section on log and timber construction with a lot of pertinent information.

-Find a source for your logs, which may be a sawmill owner you make contact with, or directly through a logger. Ask questions and don't be afraid about sounding stupid. This is where your contact with a local sawyer will come in handy. he will be able to advise you on your specific material acquisition needs.
 
-Keep your plan simple if you goal is to keep your cost down. Use logs for your main level wall system and conventional framing for your gables/dormers/interior walls/ etc. Up here in the northwoods SIP's are nice way to do a roof system, Down by you, I would probably just frame it in as it will be more than adequate for your heating needs.

-Unless you have a machine on site or plan on renting/buying one, keep your log sizes manageable. For milled logs, 8x8x16 ft. (in dry white pine mind you) is the absolute longest length I would consider moving by hand with two big guys. With the southern yellow pine you have down there, I would say 12 footers would be about the limit for a reasonable working length.

-Scribers are nice looking, but are also time consuming and more susceptible to shrinkage issues than a milled log system. There are allot of ways to put together a milled wall package, Some of which I like, others not so much. Because the wall packages I typically do are usually on the larger size,(10x10 and 12 x12) I simply use a good application of PL400 or liquid nails and a Oly log hog screw every two feet on center. I have also used to good effect a combo of sill seal foam, 1 1/2 inch dowels, and oly log screws.
 
-As has been mentioned, large overhangs(30 inch+) should be incorporated, as should a foundation system that places your bottom course of logs no closer than 16 inches from the ground. Because termites will likely be an issue down by you, I would shoot for at least two feet of masonry barrier before you start your courses.  

Like I said, PM if you have any other questions.

Also to Vortex Sam,  Let me know if you ever need anything log home related, I got you covered and I like to trade.

Woodpeckers love log cabins.  

A little cold and snowy outside to be taking pictures...

But anyway, this far north termites aren't an issue, and carpenter bees want to bore into the underside of surfaces, not walls.

Nice lookin' house you got there

I'm overwhelmed at the offers of advice (and cabin visits!) here. Thanks, guys.

The fiancee and I really like the idea of building a garage/apartment first, then a cabin later. We're going to look further into that idea for now - maybe a block garage built into a hillside cutout, then a small cabin on top, then a home later (if the first venture doesn't kill us).

Now..... how much do blocks cost (raw and installed)?

Make a note, folks: there isn't a better community of folks anywhere on the internet. Anywhere. I love this place.

Mine is built on a full basement, installed by professionals, and made from 8-foot high preformed wall panels over a poured concreate foundation. I recently priced a similar basement, with the inclusion of a basement level walkout, and it ran ~ $20K.  I can't strees enough how much more livable this makes the entire cabin.  No portion of the wood comes closer to the ground than about 18"; the enitre structure is built on top of the contcrete forms, with a steel I-beam support that runs the length of the basement in the center.

You could build this first and basically create a finished basement with bath, wiith areas reserved for future fullhouse sized heating systems, mudroom, water, etc., and have a cozy, but usable home (think llarge studio apartment size after space is reserved for furure HVAC and stuff).  Put an appropriate roof over it and you could build any house you wanted over this basement at some point in the future, knowing that the foundation of the structure was done right.

Reading my mind you are, always wanted to build a tin shack.

If you have Amish in the area, just pay them to build you something. Log cabins are considered a luxury by rural companies that make the kits, and they charge rich suburbanites like you thru the nose by selling the dream.

I pretty much did this over the summer, and can tell you first hand that even if you/friends do 90% of the work, it is nearly impossible to maintain OPSEC.


BTW, concrete and masonry work S-U-C-K-S even with extremely qualified help. I saved about 50% on the project cost even with all the mistakes made along the way and it still was not an experience I care to repeat. This "root cellar" is the last masonry project I will ever be involved with.

I'm neither rich nor suburbanite. I'm a very rural person who just happens to make decent money with low overhead. The whole point of a cabin would be to maintain the 'low overhead' part.

I'd like to try one of these

And no I didnt read the whole thread, in case it's already been posted...

Another great site.  .

Advice:  Google before you invite "Log Cabin Republicans" over.

No bugs, no "peckers"
Ive not had a prob. Nor did my parents house, which was built 30 yrs ago.

Ok, you guys who built butt-and-pass cabins, what diameter logs did you use?

Is it possible to build a solid house with 12" or less logs - logs that start at 10"-12" and taper down to 6" or so?