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Funny you should mention that. I kept having issues with my Ender leaking plastic around the nozzle (due to the Bowden design). Since I had one day left to return it, I did. I'm saving my money for an Original Prusa i3 MK3, should order it in a couple of weeks. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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FWIW I'll have about $500 - $600 into my Ender 3 ($240 from Amazon) when I'm ready to buy a new printer. But the Ender's pretty solid right out of the box (after I built it). Have you thought about getting an i3 kit? |
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Sounds like the nozzle just needed tightened down, or there might have been an issue with the throat. Have you thought about getting an i3 kit? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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FWIW I'll have about $500 - $600 into my Ender 3 ($240 from Amazon) when I'm ready to buy a new printer. But the Ender's pretty solid right out of the box (after I built it). Have you thought about getting an i3 kit? While I didn't get any good prints (I guestimate half a spool of Hatchbox/MatterHacker's filament wasted) I learned quite a bit about troubleshooting the basic printer. So I don't anticipate any issues putting the Prusa together. I'd better start learning my way around Slic3r PE though. |
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Quoted: Funny you should mention that. I kept having issues with my Ender leaking plastic around the nozzle (due to the Bowden design). Since I had one day left to return it, I did. I'm saving my money for an Original Prusa i3 MK3, should order it in a couple of weeks. View Quote |
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Quoted: @TheTaxMonkey The STL files output from SketchUp often cause your Slicer program of choice to fail or lockup due to structure errors. View Quote I watched a few YT videos after I asked and a few suggestions kept recurring such as ensuring planes were contiguous and models were one object rather than a grouping of multiples. I have experience with SU but not 3D printing from SU created models and I think I can see where some of those problems might originate. Very interesting. Thanks. |
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I had this problem initially. It was put together wrong in the factory. I had to reassemble making sure the stainless tube that the Bowden tub slides into was butted up all the way against the back of the nozzle when the nozzle is screwed in. There was approx a 0.100" gap between them from the factory. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: Funny you should mention that. I kept having issues with my Ender leaking plastic around the nozzle (due to the Bowden design). Since I had one day left to return it, I did. I'm saving my money for an Original Prusa i3 MK3, should order it in a couple of weeks. I think I'll be happier with the Prusa anyway. |
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@ProfGAB101 I watched a few YT videos after I asked and a few suggestions kept recurring such as ensuring planes were contiguous and models were one object rather than a grouping of multiples. I have experience with SU but not 3D printing from SU created models and I think I can see where some of those problems might originate. Very interesting. Thanks. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: @TheTaxMonkey The STL files output from SketchUp often cause your Slicer program of choice to fail or lockup due to structure errors. I watched a few YT videos after I asked and a few suggestions kept recurring such as ensuring planes were contiguous and models were one object rather than a grouping of multiples. I have experience with SU but not 3D printing from SU created models and I think I can see where some of those problems might originate. Very interesting. Thanks. Isn't there a program that fixes STLs that won't print correctly? Is it MeshMixer? |
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Quoted: Ahh, well. If I'd had another week I'd have been willing to troubleshoot further. I know, and know of, people who've had zero issues with the Ender 3. I think I'll be happier with the Prusa anyway. View Quote When I bought mine I basically considered that money gone I didn't expect Banggood to honor any kind of moneyback guarantee, so I just kept ripping shit apart and putting it back together. I was in the same situation as you. It took me over a month to print anything that I found to be acceptable. Plus another 50 bucks in parts. But I've got it where I can print decent things. And I'm happy with that. |
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Here is a great challenge:
3D printed 3 jaw chuck - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:624625 I might need to print this for use with my Sinker EDM. |
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Didn't realize this thread was still going.
Anybody want to print one of these? 36" 3D Printed Northern Pike Maiden Flight I've posted the STL's to thingiverse for anyone that wants to print one. The files are free, but if you wanted to tip me on thingiverse, I won't say no. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3040294 It's a 40 hour or so print to make all the parts. Every piece will fit on a standard 200x200x180mm build area printer. About 12 dollars worth of plastic, and maybe $50 for the electronics. Discussion on it here: https://www.ar15.com/forums/general/36-Northern-Pike-3D-Printed-RC-Airplane/5-2135734/ |
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Which printer is she getting you? View Quote I expect to be picking up one of the ~200 range DIY kits and a few spools of various filaments. There's not a wide range of options available here in that range. Anet A8, Creality Ender 3, Tronxy X3, Tevo Tornado, and a few delta style printers. Stuff like that. A lot of my research and reading so far leads me to believe that once I've got one that works decently enough I can use it to essentially build another. This amuses me, as well as the ability to just download and print a part for something rather than having to go to the store. Whichever I end up with will be one with a good aftermarket support system with parts availability and upgrades on thingiverse. |
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I have not decided yet. She will be sending me some cash and I will pick something up locally or order from our amazon equivalent. I expect to be picking up one of the ~200 range DIY kits and a few spools of various filaments. There's not a wide range of options available here in that range. Anet A8, Creality Ender 3, Tronxy X3, Tevo Tornado, and a few delta style printers. Stuff like that. A lot of my research and reading so far leads me to believe that once I've got one that works decently enough I can use it to essentially build another. This amuses me, as well as the ability to just download and print a part for something rather than having to go to the store. Whichever I end up with will be one with a good aftermarket support system with parts availability and upgrades on thingiverse. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Which printer is she getting you? I expect to be picking up one of the ~200 range DIY kits and a few spools of various filaments. There's not a wide range of options available here in that range. Anet A8, Creality Ender 3, Tronxy X3, Tevo Tornado, and a few delta style printers. Stuff like that. A lot of my research and reading so far leads me to believe that once I've got one that works decently enough I can use it to essentially build another. This amuses me, as well as the ability to just download and print a part for something rather than having to go to the store. Whichever I end up with will be one with a good aftermarket support system with parts availability and upgrades on thingiverse. Re: Building your own. Check out OpenBuilds. Lot's of interesting builds there. |
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Anyone that wants to offer advice, feel free to pick a printer from this site
https://www.lazada.com.ph with a philippine peso price of let's say 13,000 or less. If the printer you like is more expensive and you can justify it, I'll consider it. Link or search terms would be appreciated. If you've got another idea for a site that can reliably ship to the Philippines...I'm open to that too. Features I'm interested in: I want to build it from a kit, no ready to run setups please. Large-ish build volume (no 100x100x100 or smaller, for example) Quality hot end Quality heated bed Can be tuned for excellent accuracy/precision Support for exotic filaments is a plus, but basic pla/abs/petg support is practically mandatory. Solid aftermarket support - both printable upgrades and replacement hardware/electronics/modifications. |
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Anyone that wants to offer advice, feel free to pick a printer from this site https://www.lazada.com.ph with a philippine peso price of let's say 13,000 or less. If the printer you like is more expensive and you can justify it, I'll consider it. Link or search terms would be appreciated. If you've got another idea for a site that can reliably ship to the Philippines...I'm open to that too. Features I'm interested in: I want to build it from a kit, no ready to run setups please. Large-ish build volume (no 100x100x100 or smaller, for example) Quality hot end Quality heated bed Can be tuned for excellent accuracy/precision Support for exotic filaments is a plus, but basic pla/abs/petg support is practically mandatory. Solid aftermarket support - both printable upgrades and replacement hardware/electronics/modifications. View Quote Many people have had excellent results with their Ender3 right out of the box (it's a partially assembled kit). There is a ton of aftermarket support in terms of YT videos, Thingiverse and printable upgrades, as well as paid aftermarket support products for the Ender 3 (among others)l from companies like TH3D (site appears to be down at the moment, otherwise I'd provide a more specific link). |
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Quoted: Of the printers listed at that site I'm going to say go with the Ender 3. That site has it for 15,000 PHP, but it can be had from Gearbest for under 9,600 PHP. Many people have had excellent results with their Ender3 right out of the box (it's a partially assembled kit). There is a ton of aftermarket support in terms of YT videos, Thingiverse and printable upgrades, as well as paid aftermarket support products for the Ender 3 (among others)l from companies like TH3D (site appears to be down at the moment, otherwise I'd provide a more specific link). View Quote Hope that price holds for a while. Also hope I can scare up the cash soon There's also one at banggood for 189.99 US but with free shipping. Down side is that deal is scheduled to end tomorrow. Bleh. I'm researching upgrades and ender 3 stuff now. Unless something crazy happens this will likely be the one I go with. |
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My first print on my first 3d printer is in progress.
Printing some stuff on my new Anycubic Photon. If the prints turn out decent, these will be used for casting in silver. |
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My first print on my first 3d printer is in progress. Printing some stuff on my new Anycubic Photon. If the prints turn out decent, these will be used for casting in silver. View Quote SLA printing is pretty amazing. |
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My first print on my first 3d printer is in progress. Printing some stuff on my new Anycubic Photon. If the prints turn out decent, these will be used for casting in silver. View Quote |
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Good news, I found a local supplier that carries PLA, ABS, and PETG filaments in various colors and mixes. CF, wood, metal, etc. Also PC and various flexible filaments.
Bad news - most of these filaments do not respond well to humid environments and well, I live in the Philippines. I'm going to have to engineer up some sort of solution to not only store the filament safely but also be able to actually use it without it going bad. A big ass enclosure with a bunch of desiccant packs should do the trick. |
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Designed my first 3D print in Fusion 360!
Attached File It's a model of a tank from the Gundam universe. I based it off of a model kit that I have, with the intention of using it as a game piece in a tabletop strategy game I'm working on. Now, instead of paying $10 a piece for the model, I can just print one of these off at an hour and twenty minutes a print. Attached File Thingiverse - Mobile Worker V1.1 |
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Good news, I found a local supplier that carries PLA, ABS, and PETG filaments in various colors and mixes. CF, wood, metal, etc. Also PC and various flexible filaments. Bad news - most of these filaments do not respond well to humid environments and well, I live in the Philippines. I'm going to have to engineer up some sort of solution to not only store the filament safely but also be able to actually use it without it going bad. A big ass enclosure with a bunch of desiccant packs should do the trick. View Quote |
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Quoted: You might also look at some form of cooling or refrigeration for your enclosure. Cold air carries less moisture. View Quote WHY you NEED TO DRY your FILAMENTS! I can get the large plastic, the foam sealant, the desiccant, and the longer bowden tube/hardware for the really picky ones. |
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Quoted: I was thinking of building a rack of dry boxes like ze German guy built here - see at about 3 minutes or so https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAXUjZZER5E I can get the large plastic, the foam sealant, the desiccant, and the longer bowden tube/hardware for the really picky ones. View Quote i use these bins and dessicant for storage...
if the filament starts to get brittle it's begun getting saturated with humidity. a simple food dehydrator covered with this will return it to normal.
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I'm not sure why a lot of the Fusion360 tutorials I'm finding are related to coins and fidget spinners, but I'm calling it useful training in any case. Here's my fidget spinner based loosely on a maker's muse tutorial. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/56693/new_spinner_2018-Aug-12_07-56-57AM-000_CustomizedView13764500233-638104.png I can think of several improvements to make to it but I do not know how to do it yet. I'd like to taper the ends a bit so that the center bearing would allow it to spin while on a flat surface. I may have to do that in the sketch rather than in the extrude. Or there's another tool I haven't found yet. Still learning! My next project will be something from the kitchen. Not sure what, exactly. Frying pan, something like that. Get used to making odd shapes and stuff with volume. View Quote |
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I think we really need a "Home Manufacturing" forum. There's a whole lotta stuff out there besides 3d printers that can be used for manufacturing without an entire shop setup. At the risk of going off topic, check out this video on a desktop waterjet cutter.
FROM THE ARCHIVES: How WAZER Works Ok, enough of that. OpenBuilds is a source for DIY 3d printers and other home manufacturing plans (CNC routers, etc). In short, I believe we could justify a Home Manufacturing forum. I don't want to hijack this thread, so I'll ask for PMs if there's interest, and start a thread requesting said forum if there are enough. Edit: Helps if you don't try to use the Image icon to post a YT vid. |
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@ProfGAB101 Isn't there a program that fixes STLs that won't print correctly? Is it MeshMixer? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Quoted: @TheTaxMonkey The STL files output from SketchUp often cause your Slicer program of choice to fail or lockup due to structure errors. I watched a few YT videos after I asked and a few suggestions kept recurring such as ensuring planes were contiguous and models were one object rather than a grouping of multiples. I have experience with SU but not 3D printing from SU created models and I think I can see where some of those problems might originate. Very interesting. Thanks. Isn't there a program that fixes STLs that won't print correctly? Is it MeshMixer? |
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The Beer Slayer has shown the exact setup we use at work. We have a gun safe dryer for each tote and an extra one for every other tote, plugged in drying.
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i am in alabama which is humid as hell all the time. don't sweat it too much. proper handling and storage is the key. i use these bins and dessicant for storage... www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWTJXHSwww.amazon.com/dp/B000H0XFCSif the filament starts to get brittle it's begun getting saturated with humidity. a simple food dehydrator covered with this will return it to normal. www.amazon.com/dp/B000BC5EY4 View Quote |
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My Prusa i3 MK3 arrived today, just as I was getting ready for work. I opened the box and took out the assembly manual, looks like 150 pages or so.
Color me excited! I'll probably work on it for a couple of hours when I get home. |
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I printed out a batch of parts for a big mech build.
My blog with pics and movie of parts curing. or you could just watch the movie of parts curing... Anicubic Photon Parts Rotary Curing Under UV Light Also, to avoid double posting, here is tonight's output. 7 scorpion legs. Scorpions Don't Skip Leg Day Best, JBR |
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Quoted: If you're looking to learn Fusion 360, I recommend checking out Lars Christensen. He has lots of videos, and a tutorial series aimed at beginners. NYC CNC is another good channel, but he focuses more on the CAM and machining side of things. View Quote Updating my Fusion 360 diaries - I have now created a multi part assembly that includes screws and threaded holes etc. This was created by more or less following along with a tutorial posted by Lars. |
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Lars ended up in my recommended videos on youtube. Seems like he's a good source. Updating my Fusion 360 diaries - I have now created a multi part assembly that includes screws and threaded holes etc. This was created by more or less following along with a tutorial posted by Lars. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/56693/jbox1_JPG-647547.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/56693/jbox2_JPG-647549.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/56693/jbox3_JPG-647551.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/56693/jbox4_JPG-647552.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: If you're looking to learn Fusion 360, I recommend checking out Lars Christensen. He has lots of videos, and a tutorial series aimed at beginners. NYC CNC is another good channel, but he focuses more on the CAM and machining side of things. Updating my Fusion 360 diaries - I have now created a multi part assembly that includes screws and threaded holes etc. This was created by more or less following along with a tutorial posted by Lars. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/56693/jbox1_JPG-647547.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/56693/jbox2_JPG-647549.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/56693/jbox3_JPG-647551.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/56693/jbox4_JPG-647552.jpg |
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Something like that, yes. I'm not actually sure what the part was, and I don't really care. Start here, this is part 1 of 3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5bc9c3S12g I've moved on to working on stuff like this: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/56693/fan_blade_JPG-647746.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Is that an outdoor conduit junction? Start here, this is part 1 of 3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A5bc9c3S12g I've moved on to working on stuff like this: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/56693/fan_blade_JPG-647746.jpg |
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Okay, was wanting to know how various filaments might hold up to the sun and how much shrinkage or splitting occurred from the suns heat. View Quote You might find some info here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiczXOhGpvoQGhOL16EZiTg Also worth checking here: https://www.youtube.com/user/ThomasSanladerer Also here: https://www.youtube.com/user/TheMakersMuse/ I saw at least one heat/sun test on Maker's Muse before. Having trouble finding it right now though. |
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My printed-out parts for the 28mm Scorpion Mech. Banana for scale.
http://johnbearross.blogspot.com/2018/08/behold-my-28mm-scorpion-parts.html What she'll look like, hopefully, when assembled... Best JBR |
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My printed-out parts for the 28mm Scorpion Mech. Banana for scale. http://johnbearross.blogspot.com/2018/08/behold-my-28mm-scorpion-parts.html https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NIaMXmlriKI/W37pCbKmkcI/AAAAAAAAx4Y/sNplatUa7LUmSIGAyR8gGuoW5pDxw05WgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20180823_094658326.jpg https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PtaItrVOUCE/W37pBIJzPLI/AAAAAAAAx4I/vqp8LzQX-Yo_5eFApUsAkxgctHqDfAl5ACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20180823_094635181.jpg https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Yy2YnH6bW5o/W37pBTQzNTI/AAAAAAAAx4M/CBrJGMzoTig2UrjSlyhDhtrAzIjAi-ooACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20180823_094641551.jpg https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NIaMXmlriKI/W37pCbKmkcI/AAAAAAAAx4Y/sNplatUa7LUmSIGAyR8gGuoW5pDxw05WgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_20180823_094658326.jpg What she'll look like, hopefully, when assembled... https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6blBksDryMM/W3O077nrZLI/AAAAAAAAxzQ/G_AlqEPKYy4PCMMlOvVa-y24clp720xOACLcBGAs/s1600/28mmScorp7.jpg Best JBR View Quote Reminds me of a mech from a movie that came out in the 80's or 90's. |
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Kick ass! Reminds me of a mech from a movie that came out in the 80's or 90's. View Quote Robot Wars (1993) |
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Quoted: Sorry if you've already answered this and I forgot what you said. Which 3D modeling package do you use for this? View Quote File format goes from .3dm to .STL, and straight to print. It's near grunt-proof, which is why I'm able to grasp it. Best, JBR |
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I think I told you guys I had returned my Ender 3. Well I ordered an Original Prusa i3 MK3. it got here last week and my son helped his poor, blind father put it together.
Due to a faulty part (or possible cross threading) one of the Z axis motors was binding and the printer would not complete calibration. Prusa has 7x24 chat support, and they said they'd send two of the parts out on Monday, no charge. Well 3 - 4 days was too long to wait, so my wife (who's gotten as excited about this as I am) and I took a jewelers screwdriver and made the bottom half of the threads deeper and wider. Printer has now passed diags and calibration, and is printing beautifully. After printing the Prusa test placard I think I still need to lower the Z home another 0.005 - 0.01 mm, but I got impatient, so I'm printing a Nefertiti bust (no GD, it's her head!!) overnight while I'm sleeping. |
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I think I told you guys I had returned my Ender 3. Well I ordered an Original Prusa i3 MK3. it got here last week and my son helped his poor, blind father put it together. Due to a faulty part (or possible cross threading) one of the Z axis motors was binding and the printer would not complete calibration. Prusa has 7x24 chat support, and they said they'd send two of the parts out on Monday, no charge. Well 3 - 4 days was too long to wait, so my wife (who's gotten as excited about this as I am) and I took a jewelers screwdriver and made the bottom half of the threads deeper and wider. Printer has now passed diags and calibration, and is printing beautifully. After printing the Prusa test placard I think I still need to lower the Z home another 0.005 - 0.01 mm, but I got impatient, so I'm printing a Nefertiti bust (no GD, it's her head!!) overnight while I'm sleeping. View Quote @MCSquared |
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House much did the Prusa set you back? I'd eventually like to get into a nicer class machine. @MCSquared View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I think I told you guys I had returned my Ender 3. Well I ordered an Original Prusa i3 MK3. it got here last week and my son helped his poor, blind father put it together. Due to a faulty part (or possible cross threading) one of the Z axis motors was binding and the printer would not complete calibration. Prusa has 7x24 chat support, and they said they'd send two of the parts out on Monday, no charge. Well 3 - 4 days was too long to wait, so my wife (who's gotten as excited about this as I am) and I took a jewelers screwdriver and made the bottom half of the threads deeper and wider. Printer has now passed diags and calibration, and is printing beautifully. After printing the Prusa test placard I think I still need to lower the Z home another 0.005 - 0.01 mm, but I got impatient, so I'm printing a Nefertiti bust (no GD, it's her head!!) overnight while I'm sleeping. @MCSquared I'd probably buy the prebuilt if I had to do it again, maybe. That extra $250 is a lot of scratch. But when you buy the kit, it is a kit. no two parts are put together. There's a lot of cleaning out screw holes, and the threaded plastic nuts that mount the X axis gantry to the Z lead screws (yes, 2 of them) might come malformed. They did for me. I had to gouge out the threads at the bottom of one of them, make them wider and deeper. It was binding one side of the Z axis so tight it couldn't move. And yes, they are 3 day shipping two more of those nuts to me at no cost, but they won't be here till Wednesday and I wanted to start printing NOW. |
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