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Posted: 4/14/2019 1:52:47 PM EST
[#1]
I just purchased a Monoprice select mini as my first 3d printer. And I know absolutely zero.zero about what I'm getting into.
Now I need to know what software to use to model for it. I've seen videos using Cura, are there others I should look at (I didn't get that far in my video watching)? Or can I just use any software, as long as the file type is compatible with the printer? |
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Posted: 4/14/2019 2:33:34 PM EST
[#2]
You have cad to model and then a slicer to prepare that model for the printer.
I'm not sure about monoprice specifically, but I imagine most any slicer will work fine for it. Imho, fusion 360 is the ultimate modeling software, and you can easily set it up fusion to export directly to your slicer. It's free for hobbyists. Check out Maker's Muse on YouTube, I think he has some 3d printing 101. Also check out this channel https://youtu.be/YYUPfBJz3I6Y That video specifically is how to calibrate your extruder. Buying a cheap printer means tinkering and tuning. Just be aware of that. The more you pay for the printer, the more "set and forget" you get. Always feel free to ask questions! |
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Posted: 4/14/2019 3:14:47 PM EST
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You have cad to model and then a slicer to prepare that model for the printer. I'm not sure about monoprice specifically, but I imagine most any slicer will work fine for it. Imho, fusion 360 is the ultimate modeling software, and you can easily set it up fusion to export directly to your slicer. It's free for hobbyists. Check out Maker's Muse on YouTube, I think he has some 3d printing 101. Also check out this channel https://youtu.be/YYUPfBJz3I6Y That video specifically is how to calibrate your extruder. Buying a cheap printer means tinkering and tuning. Just be aware of that. The more you pay for the printer, the more "set and forget" you get. Always feel free to ask questions! 
I'll check out the videos- thanks. |
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Posted: 4/14/2019 8:40:46 PM EST
[#4]
I have become the resident CAD/3D Printing expert at my job due to my extensive CAD background.
We have two EVO22 Airwolfe 3D printers to use. We have access to pretty much any filaments on the markets to learn how they work and how we can realize benefits from it. I have been printing a lot of test parts and learning pieces from new users. This setup is a total premium printer but there is a ton to learn about how it works. |
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Posted: 4/15/2019 9:21:09 AM EST
[#5]
Finished up a copy of that ball jointed robot. I had more left on the spool than I thought, still have a bit more.
The arms (@ elbow joint) were too tight for the 2.5mm cord I used on the dragon, so I doubled up on some 1mm. I need to find some about 1/2 way between the two ... Nick |
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Posted: 4/15/2019 9:27:06 AM EST
[#6]
I really like what I am seeing from the Artillery Sidewinder X1 as an alternative to the CR-10 family. Might have to pick one up at some point to go with my heavily modded E3 and CR-10S.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Artillery-3D-Printer-Sidewinder-X1-SW-X1-High-Precision-Large-Plus-Size-300-300-400mm-3d/32887558875.html |
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Posted: 4/15/2019 9:52:09 AM EST
[#7]
One of the fans on my extruder started making noises overnight on Saturday and ended up sounding like it was grinding rocks just before what I was printing was finished. I'll probably go ahead and replace both fans as long as I'm taking things apart.
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Posted: 4/15/2019 10:22:21 AM EST
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
One of the fans on my extruder started making noises overnight on Saturday and ended up sounding like it was grinding rocks just before what I was printing was finished. I'll probably go ahead and replace both fans as long as I'm taking things apart. I used to stock those like crazy, as they would constantly fail. Got rid of that headache when I upgraded the hotend. |
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Posted: 4/15/2019 10:34:21 AM EST
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Was it one of those small 25mm(?) fans that you get on the generic "all metal hotend" type hotends for the heat break cooling? I used to stock those like crazy, as they would constantly fail. Got rid of that headache when I upgraded the hotend. 
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Posted: 4/15/2019 10:52:11 AM EST
[#10]
Not one of those super-minis that I has nonstop issue with, but yeah, they do fail.
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Posted: 4/15/2019 12:07:59 PM EST
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Parts are shit, they take forever to make, are weak, sometimes warp and separate between layers if you're making them out of ABS, which is stronger. Or for < $400 you can buy a 40w laser cutter off eBay and cut 1/4" plywood and acrylic with it. |
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Posted: 4/15/2019 2:24:15 PM EST
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You or your printer guy dont know what their doing then......Ive made parts that stand up to some pretty harsh and intentional use with no issues. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: Parts are shit, they take forever to make, are weak, sometimes warp and separate between layers if you're making them out of ABS, which is stronger. Or for < $400 you can buy a 40w laser cutter off eBay and cut 1/4" plywood and acrylic with it. I'm using parts I made myself for my EDC holster rig (belt loops). I plan on 3D printing a 1 piece holster, if I ever get the time to design it up. I use a 3D printed adapter in-between the air filter and air intake for my skidsteer (LOTS of vibration/bouncing/chems). Holding up just fine. And don't tell anybody, but I've sold MANY 3D printed trigger simulators for AR15's, and I've never had a complaint... If you do it right, 3D printed parts can be very durable. |
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Posted: 4/15/2019 5:33:06 PM EST
[#13]
Well, crap...replaced the fan and now it won't lay any material down. I knocked a ribbon cable loose when I unplugged the fan but I did plug it back in before I tried to print something else. I did check to make sure that it would extrude material by telling it to extrude from the front panel.
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Posted: 4/15/2019 5:44:25 PM EST
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Well, crap...replaced the fan and now it won't lay any material down. I knocked a ribbon cable loose when I unplugged the fan but I did plug it back in before I tried to print something else. I did check to make sure that it would extrude material by telling it to extrude from the front panel. |
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Posted: 4/15/2019 5:54:51 PM EST
[#15]
So I've had my ender 3 for two weeks and now I'm in the tank for...
An all metal heat end An ezabl An acrylic enclosure A new main board for dual extruders (doing a 2 in 1 setup) A second extruder stepper Two titan clone extruders But it is fun and I've enjoyed fucking with it. I just got it to print glock frames but now I'm making all sorts of plastic garbage. |
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Posted: 4/15/2019 6:46:26 PM EST
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It'll extrude when using the control panel, but not during prints? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Well, crap...replaced the fan and now it won't lay any material down. I knocked a ribbon cable loose when I unplugged the fan but I did plug it back in before I tried to print something else. I did check to make sure that it would extrude material by telling it to extrude from the front panel. Edit: and yes it does extrude when using the control panel, too. |
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Posted: 4/15/2019 6:53:02 PM EST
[#17]
Any chance z offset or nozzle height is no longer correct? (i.e. nozzle never gets close enough to build plate to lay down filament...) Could you have changed the hot end position when the fan was replaced?
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Posted: 4/15/2019 7:21:10 PM EST
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Any chance z offset or nozzle height is no longer correct? (i.e. nozzle never gets close enough to build plate to lay down filament...) Could you have changed the hot end position when the fan was replaced? |
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Posted: 4/15/2019 7:55:45 PM EST
[#19]
Monoprice Mini Select Pro.
First ever 3d print. It's from a file that came with the printer. Very impressed- this thing will be fun. I'm just happy this thing worked out of the box with the cheap supplied PLA. Extruder temp= 110, Bed temp= 60 
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Posted: 4/15/2019 8:32:20 PM EST
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
One of the fans on my extruder started making noises overnight on Saturday and ended up sounding like it was grinding rocks just before what I was printing was finished. I'll probably go ahead and replace both fans as long as I'm taking things apart. |
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Posted: 4/18/2019 7:58:46 AM EST
[#21]
I tried to print a Benchy the other night but I think I had the build plate temp too hot.
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Posted: 4/18/2019 11:35:38 AM EST
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I tried to print a Benchy the other night but I think I had the build plate temp too hot. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/22875/2019-04-18_08_54_45-916438.jpg  
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Posted: 4/19/2019 2:31:49 PM EST
[#23]
I'm very new to this, and have been playing around with this (Monoprice Select Mini Pro) printer today.
I'm just happy that it works, but now I want more. Here are two, not so clear, pictures of the bottom of this quad part I printed. Everything I've made has this rough, stringy bottom to it. How can I fix this? Hatchbox PLA at 200C and bed temp is 60C. Printing on the stock bed with no adhesive, haven't installed glass yet. 
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Posted: 4/19/2019 2:53:30 PM EST
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm very new to this, and have been playing around with this (Monoprice Select Mini Pro) printer today. I'm just happy that it works, but now I want more. Here are two, not so clear, pictures of the bottom of this quad part I printed. Everything I've made has this rough, stringy bottom to it. How can I fix this? Hatchbox PLA at 200C and bed temp is 60C. Printing on the stock bed with no adhesive, haven't installed glass yet. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/173898/3D_Part_2-917938.jpg https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/173898/3D_Part_1-917937.jpg |
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Posted: 4/19/2019 3:02:07 PM EST
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So I've had my ender 3 for two weeks and now I'm in the tank for... An all metal heat end An ezabl An acrylic enclosure A new main board for dual extruders (doing a 2 in 1 setup) A second extruder stepper Two titan clone extruders But it is fun and I've enjoyed fucking with it. I just got it to print glock frames but now I'm making all sorts of plastic garbage. |
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Posted: 4/19/2019 3:27:33 PM EST
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: ... How can I fix this? Hatchbox PLA at 200C and bed temp is 60C. Printing on the stock bed with no adhesive, haven't installed glass yet. |
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Posted: 4/19/2019 3:34:10 PM EST
[#27]
Anybody have issues with Solutech filament?
I just picked some up but I'm getting some stringing and my overhangs are a little ugly. |
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Posted: 4/19/2019 3:44:47 PM EST
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anybody have issues with Solutech filament? I just picked some up but I'm getting some stringing and my overhangs are a little ugly. |
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Posted: 4/19/2019 3:57:43 PM EST
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anybody have issues with Solutech filament? I just picked some up but I'm getting some stringing and my overhangs are a little ugly. If its too stringy, drop your temps until you get a balance of good layer-layer adhesion and no/little "oozing". |
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Posted: 4/19/2019 4:02:22 PM EST
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've used a couple rolls. Nothing awesome, nothing bad. Average I'd say. If its too stringy, drop your temps until you get a balance of good layer-layer adhesion and no/little "oozing". Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Anybody have issues with Solutech filament? I just picked some up but I'm getting some stringing and my overhangs are a little ugly. If its too stringy, drop your temps until you get a balance of good layer-layer adhesion and no/little "oozing". |
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Posted: 4/19/2019 4:27:04 PM EST
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Relevel the bed, make sure it is consistent and close. I use a piece of standard printer paper, and want just a slight 'grab' on the paper between the nozzle and bed. I have run the autolevel multiple times. |
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Posted: 4/19/2019 4:28:55 PM EST
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Yep, like he said, looks like you need to re-do your bed level & adjust the distance to nozzle doing the paper thing. PLA wants to be "squished" onto the bed for the initial layer, your pics look like way too much clearance. PLA wasn't sticking until I lowered the z-axis by 0.25. Maybe I need to lower it more- but I'm concerned about nozzle hitting the bed. Thank you. |
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Posted: 4/19/2019 5:03:39 PM EST
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ok, this sounds promising. PLA wasn't sticking until I lowered the z-axis by 0.25. Maybe I need to lower it more- but I'm concerned about nozzle hitting the bed. Thank you. Something like this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:97151 |
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Posted: 4/19/2019 5:46:23 PM EST
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ok, this sounds promising. PLA wasn't sticking until I lowered the z-axis by 0.25. Maybe I need to lower it more- but I'm concerned about nozzle hitting the bed. Thank you. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: Yep, like he said, looks like you need to re-do your bed level & adjust the distance to nozzle doing the paper thing. PLA wants to be "squished" onto the bed for the initial layer, your pics look like way too much clearance. PLA wasn't sticking until I lowered the z-axis by 0.25. Maybe I need to lower it more- but I'm concerned about nozzle hitting the bed. Thank you. Works for me a lot better than the paper test. |
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Posted: 4/19/2019 6:58:04 PM EST
[#35]
Thanks guys, I won't be able to do anything until next week, I'll let you know how it goes.
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Posted: 4/19/2019 7:29:51 PM EST
[#36]
I've had the parts around for a while, but finally got around to wiring things up. I replaced the standalone battery smoke alarm in my Ender 3's enclosure with a hardwired version (with battery backuip) that has a provision for group alarms & wired in a relay made to work with that version that changes state when the alarm goes off. The specs on the relay looked to be adequate for the Ender 3 power draw (15 amp resistive or 1/3 HP motor). I wired the relay into a short (2') extension cord so the printer power gets interrupted if the smoke alarm goes off.
The smoke detector was $12.25 at Amazon (prime) First Alert Smoke Detector Alarm | Hardwired with Backup Battery, BRK9120b6CP The relay was $16.89 at Amazon (prime) BRK RM4 Smart Relay for First Alert I used some round 3 conductor antenna rotor cable for the connection from cord to smoke detector pigtail. All connections were soldered & covered with multiple layers heat shrink. I didn't bother with an enclosure for the relay assembly, it was already heat shrink sealed as a bundle, so I just taped the connections together to make a neat packet. Wiring was pretty straight forward. The pigtail for the detector wanted hot & neutral wires plus a third for the signal. The input for the relay needed signal + hot & neutral. On the output side, the common got a connection to hot from the plug. The socket end of the cord got ground & neutral from the plug end + the relay's NC wire for the hot side. Tested it out with a kill-a-watt before plugging the printer in (had already checked wiring cold for continuity & shorts). It dropped power on the detector test button being pressed & restored power about 5 seconds after the beeping stopped. 
It doesn't address everything that could go wrong, but if I need to leave the area for a bit it makes for a bit of insurance while I'm out of earshot. |
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Posted: 4/20/2019 9:46:36 AM EST
[#37]
Just ran across a maintenance item I hadn't been aware of previously on the Ender 3. Even if the bowden tube does not get roasted by high temperatures, you may still need to periodically either trim back the hot end side of the tube or replace it (if too short to trim). I had noticed that when pulling filament back through the extruder for a change that lately it would get hung right at the fitting on the exit side of the extruder. There was a small "swollen" area at the end of the filament. Things were printing OK, no under extrusion issues or stringing that goes along with a bowden tube not flush on the nozzel base, so I had just been loosening the tube at the extruder fitting to nip off the filament end.
Anyway, finally needed to do a nozzle change when I ran into a partial blockage while changing over from PETG to PLA. While doing the change, I noticed the end of the bowden tube no longer had a perfect circular opening. It was decidedly egg shaped due to wall thinning on one side. No indications of heat damage, just a misshaped opening. Apparently the tube end can wear (or distort?) over time. That was the source of the swollen filament end. Not enough to block movement through the tube when removing, but big enough to not fit through the end opening of the brass fitting on the extruder. TLDR: If filament gets stuck at the extruder fitting when being removed on an otherwise properly functioning Ender 3 you probably need to either replace the bowden or trim a portion of it at the hot end to remove the distorted portion. |
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Posted: 4/20/2019 9:59:00 AM EST
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Anybody have suggestions for useful gun stuff to print? |
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Posted: 4/20/2019 12:36:19 PM EST
[#39]
Just bought my 26 year old step son an Ender 3 pro for his birthday next week. I'll let him go through the pain of figuring it out and then I'll buy one for myself.
I've been following this thread and reading every post. Some really cool stuff you guys are doing! Carry on 
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Posted: 4/20/2019 5:47:13 PM EST
[#40]
Here is one of the printers I am working with.
It isn't warped, I think I took the picture crooked or something.  Attached File |
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Posted: 4/20/2019 8:11:29 PM EST
[#41]
I have been making some drone parts on my Ender 3 Really surprised how well they come out.
Right now I'm testing the limits as I have never tried .6mm layers before now, so far things are moving along slowly. Here is what I am cobbling together. 
The lower image was printed with default cura 4 settings. |
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Posted: 4/21/2019 2:08:43 AM EST
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Where did you get the acrylic enclosure? I would like to do ABS with my ender 3 and have read that an enclosure is needed. 
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Posted: 4/21/2019 10:54:43 AM EST
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
look up lack enclosures on thingiverse. A couple of us have them on here. I think I might have 50 bucks or so in cash and almost 2 rolls of filament in mine. http://i63.tinypic.com/2pqknzc.jpg I have the tables, just need to print some more parts and get the panels. |
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Posted: 4/21/2019 11:31:50 AM EST
[#44]
Do any of you have a SLS printer? The consumer stuff is just not accurate enough for the stuff I want to do. I have been thinking of buying the Form Lab SLS they have coming out. So far I have been using a print bureau for my stuff. I am printing in Nylon 12 and its very strong and durable since all the stuff I am doing is being used.
Some examples. 
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Posted: 4/21/2019 12:44:02 PM EST
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
what did you use on your side and back panels? I have the tables, just need to print some more parts and get the panels. 
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Posted: 4/21/2019 1:31:48 PM EST
[#46]
Always wanted to play with SLS, but $$ has prevented it this far.
The small build space on anything near affordable kind of sucks too. Looks damn high quality though! |
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Posted: 4/21/2019 1:57:32 PM EST
[#47]
@sgthatred,
That is beyond impressive looking. Clarify who/what is doing those parts for you?! |
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Posted: 4/21/2019 2:15:03 PM EST
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
@sgthatred, That is beyond impressive looking. Clarify who/what is doing those parts for you?! |
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Posted: 4/21/2019 2:20:00 PM EST
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Always wanted to play with SLS, but $$ has prevented it this far. The small build space on anything near affordable kind of sucks too. Looks damn high quality though! The accuracy is great and the strength is very high. As you can see in the drum, the 3D printed threads are to ACME standards and they work great. I printed a pistol grip and was using a 3 lb sledge on it without any real damage. |
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Posted: 4/21/2019 2:38:17 PM EST
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: For mine (done using 3 stacked Lack tables, with leg extensions for the top table) I used 18"x24" acrylic sheet from Lowe's for the door & one side. No cutting required, the 24" overlaps the legs & table tops nicely. For the other side & back, I used trimmed pieces of 20"x30"x 3/16" foam board (like kids use for school projects). You can find foam board at Walmart. Foam board is easy for making cutouts for wiring & venting. https://www.skhowell.com/images/DSCN5464.jpg 
I thought it might be thin plywood, but foam board seems like it'd be perfect! |
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