I thought they were easy to modify to work in a Valmet. I almost sprung for a 76.

I have a Norinco Hunter not doing anything, kind of curious myself.

No videos as of yet, but its fairly strait forward.  

1. form rails
2. drill holes for FCG,
3. drill and form hole for selector
4. mill / cut out trigger, selector and pistol grip region on bottom of receiver.  This is the trickest part in my opinion.
5. mount /rivet bullet guide using one removed from demil stub.

The rails are "unfinished" and are essentially 'bridged" One forms the rails and the ejector by cutting out all the bridge material.  It was surprisingly easy.  I suppose you could even use an angle grinder and cut-off wheel to do it.  Just don't remove too much nd hand file the rest till the bolt fits.

The FCG holes can be located using careful measurements with the diagrams that Tortort has.  You can also use a transfer guide from Childers AK transfer plate for AK (FCG holes are the same) for just these holes or just make a template from the demilled receiver found in the kit.

The selector hole can be done by drilling out the right size holes - there is a cut out on the right side hole that is in a different location than a traditional AK.  a drill and careful dremel or filing can do this.  Careful is key language here.

The bottom cut outs for trigger can be cut out by using the dimensional info provided by Tortorts diagram and using a template from demil section of receiver.  the 80% receiver has a hole in that area that allows you to bolt on a section of the old demil receiver to use as a guide.  You can mill (preferably) or use drill and dremel  and file method.  There is a narrow slot for the selector adjacent to the pistol grip cut out - I didn't have a carbide mill bit that small.  used a drill bit and a dremel cut off wheel - went through 2 cut off wheels for that little section - its good steel in it.

The receiver is fairly hard. (no heat treat required) Use quality bits not the junk buts that most big box retailers have.  Use Cobalt or carbide and it will go better.  A good investment for this project.

The bolt in mine rotates perfect - no lock-up issues.  Its well done in my opinion.  Well worth the price.

It does not have any lightening cuts or scope slot like some receivers.  To be honest the best scope rail option (in my opinion) is to mount an AK style rail to the left, by drilling and tapping the holes directly into the receiver.  You will have many more options for optics.  I have a Galil ARM and an original scope mount and am not a fan of it compared to the normal AK platform.

The finish is a little on the rough side, but not bad at all. sand paper and a flat backer will clean it up fine.  I plan on using KG Gunkote or parkerizing  as I etched factory-like markings and don't want a heavy paint to hide those cool markings - BTW - those etch kits from the seller on AK files are "the bees knees" for making an AK look a little more authentic.

Short of the suspiciously low price, what's their deal?

OK, A few questions here.

I went ahead and bought one of the wood AR kits.  After buying it, I noticed in this thread that the SAR is the SBR version of the AR.  I looked again, and the SAR didn't come in wood.  Is there a reason for that?  Is there a different piston system in the SAR, or are the two common between the models?  I might so the SBR route if I can do it with an AR kit.

Barrel lengths - I see 18.1" on the AR and 13.1" on the SAR, but can I do one on a 16" to skip the ATF BS on going an SBR route? What barrel profile should I be getting? Hell, just post a link to the exact barrel if anyone can, I really get the feeling that whatever I buy is going to be wrong.

I'm thinking about waiting for a finished receiver from CNC Warrior, I do NOT trust my dremel work, and I have no mill or drill press.  If I go that route, can I also get an etching kit for it, or is it going to be stamped/roll marks from CNC? (More of a question for CNC Warrior, but someone here might know this; their pictures appear to show slick sides.) If I can do the etching kit, where do I get that?

I'm also concerned about the barrel buy.  You guys talk about milling and fitting when it comes to checking headspace and cutting extractors and naked barrels. Again, I do not have the proper tools/experience to dive into building this with confidence, so I would probably feel better sending it out to be built if there is any machining to be done.  Are there any videos out there to help show what I might be getting into if I try this on my own?  (Not necessarily Galil videos, but general fitting of barrels.)

@saigamanTX @cherenkov

Out of spec shit.

Hmmmm I wonder if I could build a 14.5" with pinned comp SAR? Just to avoid the post-41F bullshit.

Yes. The Israelis did this 

They are selling the remainder stock from the closing of Ohio Rapid Fire-- the owner was capable of decent work, but had personal demons which eventually led to the closing of the business at the owner's death. I have one of the later Galil receivers, bought from ORF, and it's a decent piece of work-- but that was after Century rejected a goodly number of out-of-spec receivers for the Golanis, and the critters were reworked-- trouble is I have no idea how hard it would be for Assault Weapons Of Ohio to find a later one-- @WolfsburgBob, do you remember much about these?

Yeah I read the same thing before I got them and then I found out differently. The feed angle on the galil is completely wrong for the valmet. The rounds nose dive into the breech face. Most of the time they will feed anyway but every so often the bullets get knocked way back into the case. Its a recipe for a kaboom. 

I think some people were welding the front tabs or grinding the rear locking tabs to get the angles right for the Valmet. I decided that it was too much work for a substandard solution.