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How much does the top door panel stick above the header? More than 8"?
Cut the bottoms off the two tracks bolted to the opening, drop it under the truss. Although you will likely have to used low head room brackets and modify them to get the top panel to seat right at the top. |
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Quoted: sucks they are like 4 hours away View Quote If they custom made those, do they have an engineer on staff that could make you a modification drawing and you can do the work? I doubt they would do that, but I'm just throwing out ideas. Your sketch you made with the white lines actually looks like it could work, but I'm not a truss expert. |
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Quoted: Quoted: How tall is that door ,like 14 ft. Just comparing By the mandoor in the pic. If it is, I don't think there would even be enough room above the header for a roll up. My roll up 8x8 need 16 or 18 inches above the header. door is 13'6" I'm not a math wizard or a garage door installer. Something doesn't add up. You need the height of a 13-6 door but your truss height was only 12-10 , then the trusses after that are only 12-10. What is the height requirement your storing and how long is it. Will it hit the next truss even if you get the height needed on that truss? |
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Quoted: Probably should talk to whomever engineered the truss to start with. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Im seriously not trolling, I knew this was going to be a issue, but I am trying to engineering a soloution. Probably should talk to whomever engineered the truss to start with. they are closed right now. |
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What's the tallest thing you plan to move in through the door?
Could you modify a door panel or remove one panel to resize the door down by about 12-18" and then drop your door header and track system to match? |
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Quoted: I knew you were going to post this. I'm not doing the statics to calculate all the loads. I just wouldn't bother. Get a new door. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: yes it's in tension, but I need to raise that tension! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/277411/truss_repair_jpg-2005520.JPG but if I welded a big ass plate on each side wouldn't that make the static calculations a moot point as we would ne entering coonass engineering? |
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Don't cut the truss, there are better solutions with the rails.
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Quoted: I'm not a math wizard or a garage door installer. Something doesn't add up. You need the height of a 13-6 door but your truss height was only 12-10 , then the trusses after that are only 12-10. What is the height requirement your storing and how long is it. Will it hit the next truss even if you get the height needed on that truss? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: How tall is that door ,like 14 ft. Just comparing By the mandoor in the pic. If it is, I don't think there would even be enough room above the header for a roll up. My roll up 8x8 need 16 or 18 inches above the header. door is 13'6" I'm not a math wizard or a garage door installer. Something doesn't add up. You need the height of a 13-6 door but your truss height was only 12-10 , then the trusses after that are only 12-10. What is the height requirement your storing and how long is it. Will it hit the next truss even if you get the height needed on that truss? so the door is behind the first truss and the door itself is lower, but as you go to the 2nd truss that is 10ft away, the track is 8" lower than the front where it mounts to the header. But then because of the angle of the dangle the rear of the track is like a foot lower that the door opening. I am about to make a youtube |
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Quoted: What's the tallest thing you plan to move in through the door? Could you modify a door panel or remove one panel to resize the door down by about 12-18" and then drop your door header and track system to match? View Quote offshore boat with t top and radar is going to be right under 13'6" |
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Quoted: You asked a question, you have been given the answer like 20 times, but you refuse to accept it and keep responding with "funny" responses. What do you call that? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Im seriously not trolling What do you call that? I keep getting the answer of get a new door. I don't want a new door. I need to know how to fix the truss to gain the clearance. Did the engineers at NASA tell John F Kennedy to just sent a satellite into space and call it quits? |
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Get some bottle jacks and shims. Would be a good time to add one of those vision rows with the clear plastic across the top for the natural light.
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Quoted: The correct answer here is low headroom track and trolley openers. View Quote Agreed but Im not 100% he can get the full distance he needs but its his best option to look into before cutting trusses. OP has... notice the horizontal track height above the door top edge. Attached File OP needs... notice the horizontal track height above the door top edge. Attached File |
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Quoted: offshore boat with t top and radar is going to be right under 13'6" View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: What's the tallest thing you plan to move in through the door? Could you modify a door panel or remove one panel to resize the door down by about 12-18" and then drop your door header and track system to match? offshore boat with t top and radar is going to be right under 13'6" Is the radar off to the side? You will have plenty of space for a trolley opener. Sidemounts are nice for certain things but not for lowheadroom aread. |
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Quoted: Get some bottle jacks and shims. Would be a good time to add one of those vision rows with the clear plastic across the top for the natural light. View Quote on the door? I already have a row of windows...looks nice Attached File |
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Quoted: Is the radar off to the side? You will have plenty of space for a trolley opener. Sidemounts are nice for certain things but not for lowheadroom aread. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: What's the tallest thing you plan to move in through the door? Could you modify a door panel or remove one panel to resize the door down by about 12-18" and then drop your door header and track system to match? offshore boat with t top and radar is going to be right under 13'6" Is the radar off to the side? You will have plenty of space for a trolley opener. Sidemounts are nice for certain things but not for lowheadroom aread. it's right in the middle of the door opening. |
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Quoted: wut?> View Quote Here is how the manufacturer describes it. https://support.chamberlaingroup.com/s/article/How-to-shorten-the-length-of-the-rail-to-make-room-for-a-ceiling-beam-or-other-obstruction-1484145517126 That's shortening rails, I was talking shortening the vertical, I've done it, you shouldn't unless you want to come up with a solution to hold the top panel tight. If you cut it wrong, you have to buy new verticals. Only way it would work is if you have excessive panel above the door and could keep the top roller below the radius. You don't have enough panel to do this after seeing the video, don't cut the rails. |
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Sketch something up showing what you have in mind. Send it to the people that engineered the truss and ask them for an engineered solution.
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Quoted: Agreed but Im not 100% he can get the full distance he needs but its his best option to look into before cutting trusses. OP has... notice the horizontal track height above the door top edge. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/480138/standard_jpg-2005538.JPG OP needs... notice the horizontal track height above the door top edge. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/480138/LH_jpg-2005544.JPG View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: The correct answer here is low headroom track and trolley openers. Agreed but Im not 100% he can get the full distance he needs but its his best option to look into before cutting trusses. OP has... notice the horizontal track height above the door top edge. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/480138/standard_jpg-2005538.JPG OP needs... notice the horizontal track height above the door top edge. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/480138/LH_jpg-2005544.JPG The second picture is not recommended. I will edit with proof. |
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Quoted: I keep getting the answer of get a new door. I don't want a new door. I need to know how to fix the truss to gain the clearance. Did the engineers at NASA tell John F Kennedy to just sent a satellite into space and call it quits? View Quote You do you, I would do it right and get a door that fits without compromising the structure. |
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What is the radius of the tracks for your door? If you can go smaller, that would help.
Often, in these low clearance situations, they go to a tight radius track and sometimes even do a double track for the horizontal rails. I'm not an expert, but my brother in law has a side business doing garage doors and I've helped him out a few times over the last few decades, so I've seen a couple low clearance and low headroom installs. ETA, I see this was already covered. |
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Quoted: on the door? I already have a row of windows...looks nice https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/277411/garage_door_small_jpeg-2005546.JPG View Quote Park the boat in the next bay over. |
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Quoted: You don't want to do it right. You want people to tell you to cut corners instead...literally. You do you, I would do it right and get a door that fits without compromising the structure. View Quote Which means new door with less height. The radius bend makes a world of different when it comes to headroom at the header which doesn't appear to be an issue. |
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Quoted: You don't want to do it right. You want people to tell you to cut corners instead...literally. You do you, I would do it right and get a door that fits without compromising the structure. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I keep getting the answer of get a new door. I don't want a new door. I need to know how to fix the truss to gain the clearance. Did the engineers at NASA tell John F Kennedy to just sent a satellite into space and call it quits? You do you, I would do it right and get a door that fits without compromising the structure. My only option for a door would be a rool up door and that's not in the cards. I can also ass another 6x6 to assist with the weight in the middle or the sides. |
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Quoted: I knew you were going to post this. I'm not doing the statics to calculate all the loads. I just wouldn't bother. Get a new door. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: yes it's in tension, but I need to raise that tension! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/277411/truss_repair_jpg-2005520.JPG You both are making it too complicated. Cut the truss and run a ratchet strap where the truss was. When you want to open the door take down the ratchet strap, close the door tighten it up again. Easy. |
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Quoted: Quoted: on the door? I already have a row of windows...looks nice https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/277411/garage_door_small_jpeg-2005546.JPG Park the boat in the next bay over. theres the same door going there too |
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Quoted: I keep getting the answer of get a new door. I don't want a new door. I need to know how to fix the truss to gain the clearance. Did the engineers at NASA tell John F Kennedy to just sent a satellite into space and call it quits? View Quote No, they spent a ridiculous amount of money. |
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You would have to place it in a program like RISA or STADD-Pro, and run an analysis. You are cutting the main tension member of the truss (under gravity loads) or the main compression member under high wind loads (yes it does both). Granted, your max tension and compression is near mid-span of the truss. But you can't just cut it. You must do something else. I bill my time out at $175/hour, but I'm not licensed in your state. Someone analyzing it would need the original design drawings with dimensions, sizes, and steel strength.
I think it would be cheaper to return the door and get a sliding door, roll up door, or shorter door. |
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Quoted: No, they spent a ridiculous amount of money. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: I keep getting the answer of get a new door. I don't want a new door. I need to know how to fix the truss to gain the clearance. Did the engineers at NASA tell John F Kennedy to just sent a satellite into space and call it quits? No, they spent a ridiculous amount of money. Well, this shouldn't costs that much. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: on the door? I already have a row of windows...looks nice https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/277411/garage_door_small_jpeg-2005546.JPG Park the boat in the next bay over. theres the same door going there too But the truss isn't low there is it? I am assuming you have three (or more) bay doors. |
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Quoted: You would have to place it in a program like RISA or STADD-Pro, and run an analysis. You are cutting the main tension member of the truss (under gravity loads) or the main compression member under high wind loads (yes it does both). Granted, your max tension and compression is near mid-span of the truss. But you can't just cut it. You must do something else. I bill my time out at $175/hour, but I'm not licensed in your state. Someone analyzing it would need the original design drawings with dimensions, sizes, and steel strength. I think it would be cheaper to return the door and get a sliding door, roll up door, or shorter door. View Quote How about welding 3/16" plate on each side.? |
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Quoted: But the truss isn't low there is it? I am assuming you have three (or more) bay doors. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: on the door? I already have a row of windows...looks nice https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/277411/garage_door_small_jpeg-2005546.JPG Park the boat in the next bay over. theres the same door going there too But the truss isn't low there is it? I am assuming you have three (or more) bay doors. two bay doors and I am going to run into the same exact problem on the other side. |
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Quoted: yes it's in tension, but I need to raise that tension! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/277411/truss_repair_jpg-2005520.JPG View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Do not cut that bottom member it is in tension....modify the garage tracks.... Going back to my statics class in college, every node of that truss has forces going in and out of it.... yes it's in tension, but I need to raise that tension! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/277411/truss_repair_jpg-2005520.JPG Whoever shingled your roof did a piss poor job. |
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Quoted: And so you are asking to do something that will directly impede that function? You know the answer, you just don't want to accept it. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: OP why is the truss there to begin with? hold up my roof? Wait wait you were on to something. No roof, no truss, no problem! It’s brilliant in its simplicity. |
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Contact an engineer. Have him draw up plans. Implement plan. Save plans for insurance or building department as necessary.
Or... go online. Ask structural question on gun forum. Field many questions, read many solutions. Some good, many bad. Do whatever hillbilly shit you were going to do anyway. ???? Profit. |
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Quoted: Whoever shingled your roof did a piss poor job. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Do not cut that bottom member it is in tension....modify the garage tracks.... Going back to my statics class in college, every node of that truss has forces going in and out of it.... yes it's in tension, but I need to raise that tension! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/277411/truss_repair_jpg-2005520.JPG Whoever shingled your roof did a piss poor job. maybe so, it survived a catagory 3 last year. |
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OP---Get in touch with the truss designer. The program they use to design those trusses has the ability to do modifications such as you describe. It may require a certified welder or some such, but it won't be all that expensive. I used to build houses with trusses for a living. Ran into many instances where we had to modify on the fly. Giterdone.
You say they are closed. Like for the day or forever? |
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Quoted: The second picture is not recommended. I will edit with proof. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: The correct answer here is low headroom track and trolley openers. Agreed but Im not 100% he can get the full distance he needs but its his best option to look into before cutting trusses. OP has... notice the horizontal track height above the door top edge. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/480138/standard_jpg-2005538.JPG OP needs... notice the horizontal track height above the door top edge. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/480138/LH_jpg-2005544.JPG The second picture is not recommended. I will edit with proof. Im not sure why low headroom double track wont work if it gets the drop distance needed. We installed 18x8 clopay code W7 rated at 200+ in condos on the beach with these very tracks. Those doors are like 600lbs easily. Edit: After seeing the video. His horizontals are about as low as they can go (parallel with the top of the door). His only option is to mod the truss with that door. I wanna see this boat! |
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Quoted: OP---Get in touch with the truss designer. The program they use to design those trusses has the ability to do modifications such as you describe. It may require a certified welder or some such, but it won't be all that expensive. I used to build houses with trusses for a living. Ran into many instances where we had to modify on the fly. Giterdone. You say they are closed. Like for the day or forever? View Quote I think till next week. I'll try again tomorrow. |
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Quoted: if I did this with a plate on each side I don't see how it wouldn't work. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/277411/truss_repair_plate_jpg-2005569.JPG View Quote If you extended the plate to the next bottom gusset I would feel more comfortable. |
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