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These are the same idiots complaining in tire reviews online about how they “blow out in less than 5000 miles”.... Well no shit Sherlock. They’re not meant to be driven on the sidewalk there ricer dude.
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When I was at myrtle beach I saw a lot of this too and could not figure out what the point was.. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384425/IC90gC1_png-1092228.JPG View Quote |
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Yeah, it's definitely a look. A lot of these cars are trying to run wheels with a large lip face (often referred to as the "barrel"). These wheels tend to be negative offset designs. If you look at an old school muscle car wheel, they will have large lip and the center hub portions sits further inside the wheel. On most modern wheels on FWD cars, the central hub portion is almost flat with the edge of the wheel (considered a positive offset...often listed as a +35 or +45). People that run these extreme camber setups are trying to fit the widest lipped wheel under their fender. That's also why the tend to run "stretched" tires with a narrow tire on a wider rim (example....205/40 on a 16x9" wheel). Running a narrow tire makes the tire sidewall slant inwards and gives you even more room to fit a wider rim under the fenders. Here is similar sized (height) wheels with a different offset/width. The entire wheel looks different. Smaller width/higher offset https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0768/0985/products/DSC03785.JPG Slightly wider but with a negative offset. Having that extra barrel lip is a big deal for people into this trend. Often times these wheels will cost 2X (used market) as the wheels above because of the demand even though the only difference is maybe an 1-2" width. https://www.jdmdistro.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/SSR-LONGCHAMP-XR4-old-school-14-inch-wheels-for-sale-uk-europe-2.jpg View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I don't get all that negative camber crap. I have a friend that has a Chevy C10 with Porterbuilt dropmembers front and rear and air bags, he can tuck 24" wheels and barely has any negative camber when the truck is aired all the way down. Your friend's truck has solid axles where all of the cars shown here have independent suspension. I was told the extreme negative camber wasn't just a side effect from being lowered but that it is the look they are going for. I've always liked the look of a lowered vehicle, but that extreme negative camber is just stupid looking. A lot of these cars are trying to run wheels with a large lip face (often referred to as the "barrel"). These wheels tend to be negative offset designs. If you look at an old school muscle car wheel, they will have large lip and the center hub portions sits further inside the wheel. On most modern wheels on FWD cars, the central hub portion is almost flat with the edge of the wheel (considered a positive offset...often listed as a +35 or +45). People that run these extreme camber setups are trying to fit the widest lipped wheel under their fender. That's also why the tend to run "stretched" tires with a narrow tire on a wider rim (example....205/40 on a 16x9" wheel). Running a narrow tire makes the tire sidewall slant inwards and gives you even more room to fit a wider rim under the fenders. Here is similar sized (height) wheels with a different offset/width. The entire wheel looks different. Smaller width/higher offset https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0768/0985/products/DSC03785.JPG Slightly wider but with a negative offset. Having that extra barrel lip is a big deal for people into this trend. Often times these wheels will cost 2X (used market) as the wheels above because of the demand even though the only difference is maybe an 1-2" width. https://www.jdmdistro.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/SSR-LONGCHAMP-XR4-old-school-14-inch-wheels-for-sale-uk-europe-2.jpg |
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It's not bad if done correctly. People always assume that camber is what destroys tires but excessive toe is much worse. I've run cars with extreme camber in my past but had correct factory toe measurements...and my tires just barely wore faster than normal. View Quote |
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Spending extra money to get a worse looking, worse performing, higher maintenance needing car is the exact opposite of what I look for in my car accessories.
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I just came across this on FB. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/325390/43D9F624-67F3-4498-907A-3F5EA7438354_jpeg-1092328.JPG View Quote Former mini truck low rider owner |
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I don't get all that negative camber crap. I have a friend that has a Chevy C10 with Porterbuilt dropmembers front and rear and air bags, he can tuck 24" wheels and barely has any negative camber when the truck is aired all the way down. Your friend's truck has solid axles where all of the cars shown here have independent suspension. I was told the extreme negative camber wasn't just a side effect from being lowered but that it is the look they are going for. I've always liked the look of a lowered vehicle, but that extreme negative camber is just stupid looking. Yeah, it's definitely a look. A lot of these cars are trying to run wheels with a large lip face (often referred to as the "barrel"). These wheels tend to be negative offset designs. If you look at an old school muscle car wheel, they will have large lip and the center hub portions sits further inside the wheel. On most modern wheels on FWD cars, the central hub portion is almost flat with the edge of the wheel (considered a positive offset...often listed as a +35 or +45). People that run these extreme camber setups are trying to fit the widest lipped wheel under their fender. That's also why the tend to run "stretched" tires with a narrow tire on a wider rim (example....205/40 on a 16x9" wheel). Running a narrow tire makes the tire sidewall slant inwards and gives you even more room to fit a wider rim under the fenders. Here is similar sized (height) wheels with a different offset/width. The entire wheel looks different. Smaller width/higher offset https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0768/0985/products/DSC03785.JPG Slightly wider but with a negative offset. Having that extra barrel lip is a big deal for people into this trend. Often times these wheels will cost 2X (used market) as the wheels above because of the demand even though the only difference is maybe an 1-2" width. https://www.jdmdistro.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/SSR-LONGCHAMP-XR4-old-school-14-inch-wheels-for-sale-uk-europe-2.jpg |
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It's not bad if done correctly. People always assume that camber is what destroys tires but excessive toe is much worse. I've run cars with extreme camber in my past but had correct factory toe measurements...and my tires just barely wore faster than normal. Tire wears depends on a lot of other factors: type of suspension, conditions of where you drive, how hard you drive, suspension geometry, rotating, etc.. When people lower their cars and go through tires every 5k miles, 9/10 times that's due to excessive toe, not camber. |
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No. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/107869/IMG_0165_2_jpg-1092382.JPG Just....No.. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/107869/IMG_2292_jpg-1092386.JPG View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Stanced vehicles are pants-on-head retarded and their owners tend to be the dumbest of all the rocks in the box. Generally useless trash excuses for human beings. I can't say I'm really in favor of state vehicle inspections but I would be in favor of certain laws that dictate certain minimum safety requirements for all vehicles. More than 2.5 degrees negative camber would be out of bounds. For safety, the entire tread patch must be in contact with the road. Other things I'd stipulate: All doors and windows must be operable. They must open and close and lock normally. No driving around in a vehicle with a bashed-in door that can't be opened without the Jaws of Life. All lights must be conformant to factory specifications. That may mean you have to pay to get that bashed-in fender or rear quarter panel fixed properly. Bumpers of the factory type must be present, front and rear. No replacing it with a 2x6 and you can't run without a bumper. I don't really care about window tinting and though I think fart can mufflers are just as stupid as stancing a vehicle, I wouldn't outlaw either. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/107869/IMG_0165_2_jpg-1092382.JPG Just....No.. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/107869/IMG_2292_jpg-1092386.JPG Just, beautiful! |
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Still doesn't compare to this kind of fuckery. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/69748/15-inch-g15_jpg-1092215.JPG View Quote |
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i have seen those, but i have no idea what they are called. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Still doesn't compare to this kind of fuckery. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/69748/15-inch-g15_jpg-1092215.JPG |
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When I was at myrtle beach I saw a lot of this too and could not figure out what the point was.. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384425/IC90gC1_png-1092228.JPG View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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The Carolina Squat is pants on head retarded too. Why do it? Is looking "speshul" the only point? https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/384425/IC90gC1_png-1092228.JPG |
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It's not bad if done correctly. People always assume that camber is what destroys tires but excessive toe is much worse. I've run cars with extreme camber in my past but had correct factory toe measurements...and my tires just barely wore faster than normal. View Quote |
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the GF's car has about 7* negative camber on the rear of her car due to age and mileage, its dangerous to drive at highway speeds. I've tried to have it aligned and that doesn't help much.
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But why? What is the point of more than say, -5 degrees as an extreme. Just losing contact patch. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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It's not bad if done correctly. People always assume that camber is what destroys tires but excessive toe is much worse. I've run cars with extreme camber in my past but had correct factory toe measurements...and my tires just barely wore faster than normal. Most of the cars in this thread are of the "Stance" trend. Basically it's all about running you car lowest as possible with the widest wheels you can barely tuck under your fenders. In these groups, you get bonus points for fitting wheels with a large lip (looks like a barrel) under your fender. That's why people tend to run insane 5+ degree camber...it's the only way they're fitting that wide negative offset wheel under their fenders without it rubbing. The cars with horrible camber pictured in this thread are ALL about show and doing it for "street cred" for their fellow "Stance" crowd. It has zero to do with performance, it's just a look they're going after, nothing more. Go on google images and type in "stance cars" and you can find thousands of these examples from all over the world of every type of car (US, Euro, Japan, etc..) It's very popular. |
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Quoted: Damn....looks like somethings busted https://i.stack.imgur.com/vR2OF.jpg https://cdn.motor1.com/images/mgl/kG3OQ/s1/2012-296153-extreme-negative-oni-camber-tuning-800-12-02-20121.jpg View Quote |
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Oh, the one I do get a chuckle out of is the Japanese Oni-Camber or "Demon camber" That's more of a bosozoku style deal though. "Demon camber" lol https://cdn.motor1.com/images/mgl/44BGK/s1/2012-296163-extreme-negative-oni-camber-tuning-600-12-02-20121.jpg View Quote |
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Still doesn't compare to this kind of fuckery. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/69748/15-inch-g15_jpg-1092215.JPG View Quote |
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I have -3 degrees front and -2.5 rear. Not a huge amount but it is 100% necessary. I get a full .5g of extra grip on fresh tires thanks to the camber. When cornering at 110mph+ and at 1.8g+, if you don’t have a good amount of camber your contact patch is going to be tiny and you’re going to be skating. View Quote |
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You mean you don't want an awful ride and 10% of your tires contact patch on the ground?
What is wrong with you OP? |
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Still doesn't compare to this kind of fuckery. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/69748/15-inch-g15_jpg-1092215.JPG View Quote At least that lets you know the Ghetto trash is rolling ... If the thumped out Ghetto Rattling Trunk Bass didn't signal it first... Very Houston look with the Ghetto Goblins these days... |
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Quoted: Your either missing a zero in your numbers, or are completely full of it. 1.08 is reasonable. 1.8 is fucking magic. View Quote I sustain 1.1g in certain turns before my tires are even warm. Here is just a quick G trace from my last event at Road Atlanta. The program automatically scrubs erroneous peak data and only shows maximum sustained (IE not sliding, not abrupt peaks, not bumps, etc) G load from brake/accel and lateral movement. Notice my peak sustained G is 1.73 at turn 3, then turn 4 has a max of 1.42. The peak G in the top is 1.86 right, which would be t12 where you are taking a nearly 90 degree turn at over 110mph. I used this screen shot because it's on my phone, from another thread where a poster asked for my plot at T3 specifically. Sustaining 1.8g through some turns at road atlanta is just sort of normal. Please don't act like you know what you're talking about when you clearly don't. I have literally hours of data from 2 different sources from *thousands* of laps. So, I guess I do "fucking magic" on almost every lap. This isn't even the most compelling data. The aim solo has much more accurate data because it uses GPS and accelerometers that have a MUCH higher sample rate, so the data can be cleaned up a lot more. The aim solo has shown 2g sustained in t12, so 1.8 isn't even the max. Attached File Just to really fuck you up, that's 1.73G through t3 only using 2 tires for traction. The other two are just floating and along for the ride. Attached File |
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Quoted: But why? What is the point of more than say, -5 degrees as an extreme. Just losing contact patch. View Quote Losing contact patch when travelling straight at a constant speed? Sure. But that's not when we really need the most traction. Losing contact patch when under heavy braking or during cornering? No. Camber INCREASES your contact patch (therefore:traction) when in cornering. This is why all race cars run a fairly large amount of camber, and even street/race cars do as well. I run -3 in the front and even that isn't enough. I'm currently changing some suspension components to allow for even more front camber so I have more traction in corners. In truth, WITHOUT camber your contact patch is going to be tiny, and you'll have less traction. Camber is a good thing for handling/traction - for when it counts at least. |
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Losing contact patch, where? Your statement is an incomplete and can't be taken as "truth" because it's a partial statement. Losing contact patch when travelling straight at a constant speed? Sure. But that's not when we really need the most traction. Losing contact patch when under heavy braking or during cornering? No. Camber INCREASES your contact patch (therefore:traction) when in cornering. This is why all race cars run a fairly large amount of camber, and even street/race cars do as well. I run -3 in the front and even that isn't enough. I'm currently changing some suspension components to allow for even more front camber so I have more traction in corners. In truth, WITHOUT camber your contact patch is going to be tiny, and you'll have less traction. Camber is a good thing for handling/traction - for when it counts at least. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: But why? What is the point of more than say, -5 degrees as an extreme. Just losing contact patch. Losing contact patch when travelling straight at a constant speed? Sure. But that's not when we really need the most traction. Losing contact patch when under heavy braking or during cornering? No. Camber INCREASES your contact patch (therefore:traction) when in cornering. This is why all race cars run a fairly large amount of camber, and even street/race cars do as well. I run -3 in the front and even that isn't enough. I'm currently changing some suspension components to allow for even more front camber so I have more traction in corners. In truth, WITHOUT camber your contact patch is going to be tiny, and you'll have less traction. Camber is a good thing for handling/traction - for when it counts at least. Most dedicated race cars don't run more than -5 or so, IIRC. Wouldn't more than that be extreme and inappropriate for 99.9+ percent of cars on the road? |
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Quoted: To a point. Think you CTR would corner and brake better with 30 degrees of camber? The suspension would have to be designed in a way that the tires articulate to flat under those forces, the cars in the photos in these threads are not. Most dedicated race cars don't run more than -5 or so, IIRC. Wouldn't more than that be extreme and inappropriate for 99.9+ percent of cars on the road? View Quote But there are posters in here saying anything more than -3 is “extreme” and dangerous. Makes me LOL. |
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Of course not. -30 is silliness. But there are posters in here saying anything more than -3 is “extreme” and dangerous. Makes me LOL. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted: To a point. Think you CTR would corner and brake better with 30 degrees of camber? The suspension would have to be designed in a way that the tires articulate to flat under those forces, the cars in the photos in these threads are not. Most dedicated race cars don't run more than -5 or so, IIRC. Wouldn't more than that be extreme and inappropriate for 99.9+ percent of cars on the road? But there are posters in here saying anything more than -3 is “extreme” and dangerous. Makes me LOL. |
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Quoted: Most people never even use a quarter of their cars cornering ability and only make full use of their brakes during panic stops because they were looking at their phone. View Quote People on this forum love to talk about subjects (which they apparently have very little knowledge/experience) with these broad brush strokes. It's irritating. Like an online dunning-kruger study around here. |
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I try to be as open minded and laid back as I can about the different facets of car culture (to each his own), but I really don't get this one. At all.
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Have you tried going even more in the front? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I have -3 degrees front and -2.5 rear. Not a huge amount but it is 100% necessary. I get a full .5g of extra grip on fresh tires thanks to the camber. When cornering at 110mph+ and at 1.8g+, if you don’t have a good amount of camber your contact patch is going to be tiny and you’re going to be skating. My racecar sits @ -3.2 & -2.7 respectively. Going more than that on most cars in race conditions will start to severely impact your drivability and lose the optimum setup for grip for most race tires. |
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Owners of stanced cars and bro trucks tend to be vapid cunts.
They aren’t “bad” people per say, they just tend not to bring anything to the table. |
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There are two asshats in town that have done that to Honda S2000s.
They deserve to be beaten |
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Not extreme camber, but damn... https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/403204/low_truck_jpg-1094499.JPG View Quote Never had the balls to body drop my own though. |
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Not extreme camber, but damn... https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/403204/low_truck_jpg-1094499.JPG View Quote Old mini trucker here. Had a 97 Tacoma that was 4.5-6 (static). ETA: I will build another. Want to do a factory turbo 85-89 2wd toyota extracab. |
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Quoted: Of course not. -30 is silliness. But there are posters in here saying anything more than -3 is “extreme” and dangerous. Makes me LOL. View Quote I gave up running more than 2deg neg camber for running as much caster as my adjustable plates would allow. I gained almost 2deg of caster with the adjustable caster/camber plates. I can spot 1.5-2deg of neg camber on similar model cars to mine because I know what is stock and I know where my car is and how it sits. The stance faggots have got to be 10deg or more on their cars while getting hardons at the thought of 15. |
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This thread taught me that GD doesn't understand the AoA characteristics of MacPherson and multi-link suspension geometries.
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Quoted: For street cars there is a lot that can be accomplished by caster as well. I gave up running more than 2deg neg camber for running as much caster as my adjustable plates would allow. I gained almost 2deg of caster with the adjustable caster/camber plates. I can spot 1.5-2deg of neg camber on similar model cars to mine because I know what is stock and I know where my car is and how it sits. The stance faggots have got to be 10deg or more on their cars while getting hardons at the thought of 15. View Quote |
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