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Posted: 10/1/2007 7:33:57 AM EDT
[#1]
I hate to make this sound too much like the "Vogue/GQ Forums", but (thunderw21) where do you find your vintage clothes? Do you have specialty stores around your area, or do you strike gold in goodwill/salvation army stores? |
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Posted: 10/1/2007 9:17:36 AM EDT
[#2]
Good question. I find most of my vintage hats in antique shops/malls. They're usually cheap (under $20). Ebay often has a good selection but they can go pretty high. I only have a couple of vintage suits. One I was lucky to find a perfect 1930s one at a Goodwill store while the others (like the jacket in my picture from yesterday) I got off of ebay. Most of my vintage ties are from antique shops with the others from ebay. Most of the things I wear are actually modern pieces that have vintage characteristics. I pick these up at Goodwill. You'd be amazed at what people give away to Goodwill. Several months ago I got a pair of barely used $300 Allen Edmond shoes for $4. Also, you have to know what to look for depending upon what era you want to represent. *For example, 1930s-1950s style trousers will have little to no taper along the leg but also have no flare (no bellbottoms). Pleats were common back in the 1930s-1950s but are not for everyone, especially if you are heavy. Cuffs at the bottom of the legs were very common, mainly 1 1/2"-2" wide. Hope that answers your question. If you would like I can explain in greater detail what makes certain clothing items vintage style while others are not. |
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Posted: 10/1/2007 9:39:43 AM EDT
[#3]
As an add-on to my reply above, here are some links to another forum that deals specifically with vintage clothing.
Studying these links can help you identify what looks classic vintage and what doesn't. I'll follow up later when I have more time. Fall 1934 APPAREL ARTS images *** http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=18122&highlight=esquire MORE 1939 People, Clothes IN COLOR http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=12528&highlight=esquire The QUALITY of 1937 Sears suits * (Multi-page thread) http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=6672&highlight=esquire MANY '30s IMAGES: Suits & More *** http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=10602 MORE '30s IMAGES: Suits & More *** http://www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=10662&highlight=esquire |
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Posted: 10/2/2007 7:08:08 PM EDT
[#4]
This thread is branching out into more than just hats and I think that's a good thing.
Okay, here are some pictures from old advertisements dating from the early to late 1930s. Note that in some that some things are exaggerated, such as the pinched waist and wide trouser legs (specifically on #762).  Note that all of the trousers have no taper but are wide at the leg cuff. This was a normal feature of 1930s-1940s trousers, even into the 1950s. Also notice every pair of trousers have cuffs at the bottom of the leg, usually around 1 1/2"-2" wide. #762's open jacket reveals his DB vest and very high-waisted trousers. High-waisted trousers were very common back in the '30s and came up to or beyond the belly button. All of the trousers shown have absolutely no break to them ('break' being a slight wrinkle in the trouser leg where the trouser cuff meets the shoe). Some break is acceptable though you do not want your trousers to be bunched up and dragging on the floor. As for the suits themselves, all shown are single-breasted and the three on the left have notched lapels while the furthest to the right has peaked lapels. Notched lapels were prevailent on SB jackets but peaked lapels on SB jackets were common, at least more common than they are today. Also notice the fit of each suit. The waist is nipped in to reveal an atheletic appearance. No off the rack suits today are fitted like those of the 1930s/1940s. Also note that suit jackets of yesteryear had 'high armholes' which allowed greater arm movement without the jacket rising up on the wearer. Today most every suit has 'low armholes' that do make the jacket rise up when the wearer raises his arm. In other words, high armholes are more comfortable and easier to move around in. Examples Vintage suit, high armholes:   Compare that to this modern suit, low armholes:   Notice on the low armholes that the lapels spread and the sleeves come down the arm. It doesn't fit right and won't because of the armholes. Jacket with low armholes are easier to put on and take off but look and feel lousy. |
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Posted: 10/2/2007 7:13:31 PM EDT
[#5]
Here's another one:
 Note the shape of the suit. The nipped waist seems exaggerated but then again look at this photo of me in one of my overcoats:  So, nipped waists were possible and perhaps very common in the 1930s. Note that his trousers are straight-legged and have no taper as well as no break (there are no folds since the cuff is right above the shoe but doesn't touch it). They have cuffs as well. This was a common style of suit and could be worn either with or without a vest/waistcoat. |
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Posted: 10/2/2007 7:14:30 PM EDT
[#6]
Dude, where were you for the last big fashion thread?
I'm glad someone else appreciates that certain features are timeless. |
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Posted: 10/2/2007 7:16:56 PM EDT
[#7]
Guess I missed it. Do you have a link to it? |
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Posted: 10/2/2007 7:21:36 PM EDT
[#8]
Here's a nice DB suit:
 Frankly, I love DB suits. The double row of buttons and the peaked lapels speak of power and elegance. Also note that the bottom jacket button is left unbuttoned, this is a common thing to do on both SB and DB jackets. His trousers have no taper and little to no break in them. Also, the cuff is present. Unusual for the 1930s, he is wearing spats over his shoes which is considered a bit old fashion for the time (though he appears to be in a formal setting). Then again, check out Johnny Depp wearing almost the exact same thing.  Edit: getting pic working |
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Posted: 10/2/2007 7:22:49 PM EDT
[#9]
Way too long ago for that. They aren't quite as common as the Mason, Creationism, Mormon, Ron Paul, etc. threads. I wouldn't even know where to start in the archives, as I'm sure it was a hijack, not an intentional fashion thread. |
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Posted: 10/2/2007 7:29:54 PM EDT
[#10]
Thanks, it's too bad I missed it. I'm glad you appreciate the classic look as well. I wish more people would too. T-shirts and jeans get very old. Wearing a suit in a stylish fashion isn't difficult and the comments and winks you get from the ladies are very nice. You feel very confident while doing so. More guys should try it, I think it would catch on again. |
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Posted: 10/2/2007 7:31:22 PM EDT
[#11]
Hippies. |
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Posted: 10/2/2007 7:36:28 PM EDT
[#12]
Americans look to Hollywood for fashion sense - and Hollywood has none - just money. Money does not equal class or style. I still can't get over Denzel Washington excepting his Academy Award, with the wing-tip, turned up collar CLEARLY showing a clip on bow tie. If you are going to wear a clip-on, wear a lay-down collar to cover it up, Denzel I'm single-breasted suit guy, myself. |
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Posted: 10/2/2007 7:41:50 PM EDT
[#13]
Amen. Have you seen the things Thom Browne has been making? Horrid:  Yeah, Denzel either should have worn a lay-down collar with the clip-on or gone with a real bowtie. I have many vintage clip-ons and I always wear them with a lay-down collar. Don't know why anyone would do otherwise. The thing about SB is you can wear vests with them. And I like that. Here's a nearly unworn 1930s 3-piece suit I got at Goodwill. Unfortunately, as you can see, it's too small for me. But look at that waist! You'll never see a modern jacket fit like that. 
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Posted: 10/2/2007 7:42:43 PM EDT
[#14]
+1 |
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Posted: 10/2/2007 7:44:46 PM EDT
[#15]
Do you go for the conservative notched lapel or the peaked lapel? |
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Posted: 10/2/2007 7:53:10 PM EDT
[#16]
There are variations on the double-breasted suit jacket.
Below is a 6x1 DB jacket. The "6x1" stands for the buttons. The jacket has 6 external buttons with one that actually buttons. 6x1 DB jackets were not often seen in the 1930s-1950s and are more of a late 1980s-early 1990s thing, though they do have a certain vintage look to them, especially if they are well fitted like this jacket.  Below is a more common 1930s-1950s 6x2 DB suit jacket. Two of the buttons actually button, though the bottom one is often left unbuttoned.  This particular jacket was originally 6x1 but with a few alterations i was able to turn it into a 6x2. I think that's enough education for now. There's a lot more to show y'all, though. I've just begun. If you have more to add, definitely feel free to do so. I'm just a noob at this stuff. 
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Posted: 10/2/2007 7:58:23 PM EDT
[#17]
Never worn a peaked lapel - I'm a shawl lapel guy on a tux, though - try finding one of those these days! I seem to recall the last thread starting to diverge, when I commented on how common it was to see three botton suits these days, when just two years before that, I was laughed at in suit shops for suggesting I wanted one. I swear, fashion Nazis are like the government "1984" - whatever is in fashion that year, has "ALWAYS" been in fashion. If you want to do your own thing, you have to pay for it. I really ruffled some feathers when I said I didn't wear satin piping on my tuxedo pants. Oooohh... Funny, but if some snot in Hollywood would just do it ONCE, it would suddenly become an accepted norm, and folks would act as if that is how it has always been. I just wish I could find a tailor who could do sleeves like in you pics - even my custom made stuff bunches up too much. Come to think of it, the thread may have originally been about royalty, with someone bringing up the Hollywood crowd as "our" royalty. I begged to differ, because real royalty has fashion sense and standards of acceptable public behavior. |
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Posted: 10/2/2007 8:17:08 PM EDT
[#18]
Ah, the shawl lapel. True, they are tough to find. I think I recently saw one but it was way too small. Unfortunate.
Our society wastes too much time focusing on what Hollywood and those type of people do and wear. If you break from the norm you are considered strange even if you look great, better than everyone else in their T-shirts and jeans. Frankly, I think some of the negative comments I get ("dude, you look stupid" or "F%cker") are the result of people being uncomfortable around someone so well dressed and so confident. They want to be the same way but either don't know how to or they don't have to drive to do it. It's actually kind of nice to stand out in the crowd (I'm telling you, the ladies give me so much attention when I'm dressed up nice. The smiles, the winks, girls stopping you to say you look nice. I never would have gotten the same attention if I was dressed like everyone else. It feels great to look sharp). I urge everyone reading this just to dress up nice one day for no reason and give it a try. What can you lose? Bohr, you might ask your tailor about high armholes. They will eliminate the bunching up of the sleeves. Few tailors are able to do it nowadays but you never know. I've found that Korean and Japanese tailors are better at high armholes than other tailors. Also, Bohr, you might appreciate this website: www.thefedoralounge.com/index.php |
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Posted: 10/2/2007 8:20:48 PM EDT
[#19]
It was a Korean tailor that couldn't get my tux right. My last tailor was Turkish - he did a pretty good job on my most recent suit. Erhh... I travel a lot.  There's actually a custom suit shop here in town - I cringe at the thought of what the prices will be like in the US, but I need to check them out. |
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Posted: 10/2/2007 8:24:24 PM EDT
[#20]
Lucky man. I never get around and there are absolutely no tailors around here (at least good tailors). But it just takes a little looking to find the right one. Edit: you got any pictures of your suits? |
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Posted: 10/2/2007 8:33:03 PM EDT
[#21]
Not on digits - I'll try to remember this thread if I ever get my scanner up and running. Or, I can just take some on hangers, I suppose. |
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Posted: 10/2/2007 8:40:55 PM EDT
[#22]
That's fine. Whenever you can. I look forward to seeing them. |
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Posted: 10/15/2007 7:01:01 PM EDT
[#23]
Heck, even my cat is getting into the spirit.
 
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Posted: 11/4/2007 2:08:23 PM EDT
[#24]
Has anyone gotten any nice hats or suits lately?
Here's a newer one:  Not a good pic, unfortunately. The suit is modern 100% wool. It's dark blue with a lighter blue 'windowpane' pattern throughout. I took it in to be tailored around the waist area for a more shaped look. |
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Posted: 11/4/2007 4:03:43 PM EDT
[#25]
I'm going to have to look into a coat with high armpits. I rarely wear suit coats because I have to do a lot of IT work at my job which involves a lot of reaching, lifting, etc. The two pictures of the guys lifting up their arms shows a huge difference. Why did low armpits ever become standard? That just seems silly to change from something practical to something that makes you look ridiculous if you do anything but stand or sit with your arms by your side.
BTW, I thought you might get a kick out of this: 
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Posted: 11/4/2007 6:02:50 PM EDT
[#26]
Haha! Thanks for that pic, it made my day.  As for you question as to the switch from high to low armholes, it has to do with convenience and perhaps even our weight, though convenience is more prevaliant. Jackets with low armholes are easier to put on and take off. You can reach both arms into the sleeves and slip the jacket on with ease with low armholes. Not with high armholes. You have to put each arm into the sleeves seperately and it takes time to get the jacket adjusted. Also, for men who have worn low armhole jackets all their lives high armhole jackets can be uncomfortable in the armpits, at least at first. And since fewer men wear suits on a regular basis the needs to lift ones arms and to be able to move around unrestricted is on the decline. Also, modern off the rack suits are not meant to be tailor fitted to each specific wearer. As such, low armhole jackets accomedate a wider variety of body shape and style (bigger) than jackets with high armholes. Because of this the art of high armholes is nearly lost. Hope this clears it up a bit. And thanks for the pic. |
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Posted: 11/7/2007 5:03:04 PM EDT
[#27]
How about some vintage ties?
Here's a short article I wrote for by blog, mrlapel.blogspot.com/.
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Posted: 11/7/2007 5:05:48 PM EDT
[#28]
Some more:
   Not vintage, but you gotta love the llama tie.  
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Posted: 11/7/2007 5:18:56 PM EDT
[#29]
Thunderw21
Cool threads you have there!  The only vintage type clothing I have are my A2 jacket and I also have a Westen custom made goat skin Indy Jones jacket. I'd like to get fedora too but I need to pick one that won't make me look like a dork. I don't know if I can ever pull off that look as well as you do. Cheers! |
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Posted: 11/7/2007 8:25:59 PM EDT
[#30]
Thanks. A2s are fun. I have a cheap one that I'm painting noseart on. I'm close to being done, I'll try to post some pics of it over Thanksgiving break. It's not completely historically correct but few people will know it. Here's a link that will help you choose a hat for your face shape: www.millerhats.com/hatcare_index/hatfaces.html Anyone can wear a fedora and look good, it just depends on what kind of fedora they wear and how they wear it. Cheers! |
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Posted: 11/7/2007 8:37:40 PM EDT
[#31]
Its probably not the hat...........
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Posted: 11/7/2007 8:38:39 PM EDT
[#32]
All I have is one cool Panama hat. Fedoras are teh shib. If I had one I would wear it.
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Posted: 11/7/2007 8:53:06 PM EDT
[#33]
Eureka! You have explained what I could not exactly put my finger on. Low arm holes are what I hate about my suits. How do I get suits with high arm holes? Custom? |
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Posted: 11/7/2007 8:57:53 PM EDT
[#34]
Holy hell, that's a nice picture.
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Posted: 11/7/2007 9:01:15 PM EDT
[#35]
Custom is the best way to go. However, high armholes are becoming a lost art so you'll want to be sure that the tailor knows that's what you want and how to do it. He'll have to take a measurement like the technique below.  I found that Vietnamese and Korean and sometimes Japanese tailors are good with high armholes, but it always differs with each one. Hope this helps. |
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Posted: 11/9/2007 9:17:34 PM EDT
[#36]
This thread rocks my socks. I'm inspired now to look for a fedora and suit and wingtip shoes to go swing dancing in!
LOL, The Mask was on tonight and it reminded me of this thread, so I thought I'd give it a bump-a-roo! 
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Posted: 11/9/2007 9:50:32 PM EDT
[#37]
neat thread
I too wish Fedoras would come back Nice vintage ties there I too have found a few vintage gems at the goodwill I love ties probably have over 200 need to dig out the camera and get a couple pics |
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Posted: 11/10/2007 8:16:20 AM EDT
[#38]
Hot dog! I was hoping people would get inspired. Thanks for the bump. You'll want to check out this forum for help: www.fedoralounge.com
Quite a collection. Please do so, I'd love to see 'em. How do you store them all? |
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Posted: 11/10/2007 9:47:06 AM EDT
[#39]
How about some more ties?
Vintage clip-on bow ties:    Cotton and wool:  One of my favorites. Great for New Years Eve:  |
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Posted: 11/10/2007 9:48:43 AM EDT
[#40]
You wouldn't know it by looking at black and white photos, but the 1930s-1950s was a colorful time!
    A Goodwill find: 
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Posted: 11/10/2007 9:49:04 AM EDT
[#41]
I was into fedoras back in the 90's when I was in Highschool and Ska/Swing was popular.
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Posted: 11/10/2007 12:19:52 PM EDT
[#42]
I have a fairly nice fedora that I bought at Cabela's a couple of years ago. Nice shape, nice brim...the only problem I have with it is that it only has a thin, leather band. I'd like a more traditional band, but there are no true milliner's in my town or the surrounding towns. Anyone know of someone in Kansas City or Wichita (KS) that could do it? |
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Posted: 11/10/2007 12:22:00 PM EDT
[#43]
What an odd thing to collect.
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Posted: 11/10/2007 4:04:24 PM EDT
[#44]
Here you go. Both are listed as full service renovators. Wichita Hat Works 601 W Douglas Ave, Wichita KS 67213 (316) 264-4881 www.hatmanjacks.com Arrow Quality Hat Works 3838 Troost, Kansas City MO 64109 (816) 931-2452 www.arrow-care.com Who knows, you might even pick up a hat or two while you're at it. |
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Posted: 11/10/2007 8:49:34 PM EDT
[#45]
Thanks! I will call them and find out what sort of price I'm looking at to modify the hat.
No, I don't really need another expensive hobby. My wife would kill me. |
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Posted: 11/10/2007 9:47:12 PM EDT
[#46]
Get one for her. If you're brave enough you can put on a ribbon and bow yourself. All you have to do is go out and get some grosgrain ribbon (Wal-Mart has some, though their ribbon is 100% polyester, which doesn't form to the hat as well as poly-blend ribbon meant for hats). If you do use 100% polyester ribbon you might have some trouble keeping a gap from forming between the hat and the top of the ribbon if the hat tapers towards the top. I know there are places that sell the more flexible poly blend ribbon. To get an idea of what to do just look at photos of hat ribbons and bows. There are a wide variety you could make. As someone who has done it multiple time, just take your time and if you're not happy with the result start over from the beginning. Advice: -On men's hats the bow goes on the left side of the hat while women's hats have the bow on the right side. -To hold the ribbon down around the hat tack it in place at the bottom of the ribbon only with a few tacks along the whole length. This will make the ribbon stay without the restraint being visible. -Make the bow first, then tack it into place. -Make sure the bow is centered on the side of the hat, not too far forward or back. Edit: here's a thread that shows how to make a bow step by step: www.thefedoralounge.com/showthread.php?t=23388 |
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Posted: 11/10/2007 10:09:14 PM EDT
[#47]
Examples of ribbons and bows:
Regular style bow (my first self made ribbon and bow, not bad):  Fancier bow (last week I made a bow very much like this one):  Another style of fancy bow:  Western-style thin ribbon and bow: 
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Posted: 11/16/2007 9:50:13 PM EDT
[#48]
Here's something you guys might be interested in.
I picked up this modern A-2 'lookalike' jacket at a garage sale over the summer. It was a perfect candidate for a little paint.  It's not a historically accurate representation of a WW2 A-2 but for 50 cents I couldn't pass it up. I almost had it finished in Augustbut school started up again and got in the way. The front is finished and I need to do a few details on the back but other than that it's finished. This is my first hand-painted jacket and am very happy with it. I painted the 56th FG insignia on the front and a P-47 on the back with the name "Highwayman' (inspired by the song by the same name) above it. Front:  "Cave Tonitrum" = Fear the Thunderbolt  I don't have any pics of the painted back but here is the general layout. It's changed a little since this pic was taken: "Highwayman" is a different font and arched, the plane is larger and the bombs are little crosses.  Painting a jacket isn't hard to do, it just takes a lot of time and patience more than anything. If anyone would like to try their hand at it feel free to contact me and I'll help you through the process. |
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Posted: 11/16/2007 10:26:08 PM EDT
[#49]
On the military side, 11th ACR's recently changed from the black cavalry stetson to the "1901 Pattern Campaign Hat" which I'm reading is basically a brown fedora with a wider brim.
I'm still trying to find a good photo of it. NTM |
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Posted: 11/16/2007 11:11:03 PM EDT
[#50]
Very cool thread, I work in a very casual industry and don't get to dress up very often. I am doing more client relations things so I hope that will change. My biggest issue is that I dropped 50 lbs and my suits and tux no longer fit. Now I have to find another suit or three. The high arm holes thing makes perfect sense as to why a suit has never fit very well even after having them tailored.
If you haven't done it I suggest having a suit tailored to your body, it completely changes the way it feels and people can tell. It makes you look better and more comfortable too. Now I just need to get my wife to help me pick a hat, I can't figure out which facial type I am. Although I wish I could get away with a re-molded campaign cover like I used to have. After I was out of the Aggie Corps I worked on a ranch for a time and I used my campaign cover that I had reshaped as a work hat, unfortunately I have lost it since then. Can straw hats be found in different shapes? I work outside and I am follicularly challenged, I could use a good hat; adjustable ball caps leave a sideways D on the back of my head and wearing sunscreen on your head all of the time gets old. Anyway great thread and keep it up, never apologize for dressing well. Fashion is transitory, style is enduring. 96Ag |
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