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Link Posted: 9/4/2016 10:43:48 AM EDT
[#1]
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Quoted:
I also like the quick connect type booster cable set ups I have seen on fleet vehicles, two vehicles equipped with those would allow you to jump one off without ever raising a hood.

I have thought hard about putting those on the vehicles my family uses most, and keeping a second quick connect to regular clamp cable for vehicles other vehicles.
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This.

Get some disconnects and wire them in.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0129E1KF8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473000302&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=battery+quick+disconnect&dpPl=1&dpID=51BOQFrt2XL&ref=plSrch#immersive-view_1473000333349

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Link Posted: 9/4/2016 10:44:15 AM EDT
[#2]
I carry an extra set in my airplane.
If I'm  ever going down they're bound to hang up on something before I hit the ground.
Link Posted: 9/4/2016 1:31:55 PM EDT
[#3]
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Quoted:




You don't off-road do you?

If it takes 3 seconds to jump a car you're doing it wrong. If it takes 5 minutes to winch your Jeep you didn't really need it.

I use a set of #4 jumper cables. They work fine. You connect the charging vehicle to the vehicle with the dead battery and wait. The fresh battery and charging system charges the dead one. When actually going to start the dead vehicle most of the power comes from it's own battery and some from the donor battery via the cables.
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Good terminal clamps are probably more important than wire size. JMHO


I agree.  

Even my Warn 12k lb winch only requires #2 cables, and it draws a decent amount of current.




because it has a short duty cycle




You don't off-road do you?

If it takes 3 seconds to jump a car you're doing it wrong. If it takes 5 minutes to winch your Jeep you didn't really need it.

I use a set of #4 jumper cables. They work fine. You connect the charging vehicle to the vehicle with the dead battery and wait. The fresh battery and charging system charges the dead one. When actually going to start the dead vehicle most of the power comes from it's own battery and some from the donor battery via the cables.



I have done plenty of off-roading  both with and without a winch.
Link Posted: 9/4/2016 1:44:28 PM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:




You don't off-road do you?

If it takes 3 seconds to jump a car you're doing it wrong. If it takes 5 minutes to winch your Jeep you didn't really need it.

I use a set of #4 jumper cables. They work fine. You connect the charging vehicle to the vehicle with the dead battery and wait. The fresh battery and charging system charges the dead one. When actually going to start the dead vehicle most of the power comes from it's own battery and some from the donor battery via the cables.
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Good terminal clamps are probably more important than wire size. JMHO


I agree.  

Even my Warn 12k lb winch only requires #2 cables, and it draws a decent amount of current.




because it has a short duty cycle




You don't off-road do you?

If it takes 3 seconds to jump a car you're doing it wrong. If it takes 5 minutes to winch your Jeep you didn't really need it.

I use a set of #4 jumper cables. They work fine. You connect the charging vehicle to the vehicle with the dead battery and wait. The fresh battery and charging system charges the dead one. When actually going to start the dead vehicle most of the power comes from it's own battery and some from the donor battery via the cables.


Finally, a voice of sanity in this thread.
Link Posted: 9/4/2016 1:53:34 PM EDT
[#5]
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Look at how thick the cables are that go from the battery to the starter motor, any bigger than that and it's a waste of cable.
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No, the longer the cable is the bigger it needs to be to handle the amperage going thru it..same reason extension cord wire size goes up as length increases for the same amperage ratings..

OP, I use 2.0  cable, really good hd clamps and soider all connections and then heat shrink them..I normally make my cables 25 ft long so I can reach a battery when parked behind a vehicle if needed.....
Link Posted: 9/4/2016 1:57:48 PM EDT
[#6]
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Lol, you don't want anything with a /0 in the size, especially at 15-20 feet in length. #2 AWG will handle anything that needs to be done on 12 or 24v systems down to sub-zero temps.
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You have never tried to start a diesel in sub zero weather, let alone a 24 volt Cat or any multiple battery truck.  I've melted 1's, and bigger. Good clamps and a 0 minimum. May be heavy but will always work for anything, welding wire is better for the reasons stated. Build them once build them for anything.
Link Posted: 9/4/2016 2:04:03 PM EDT
[#7]
My NATO slave cable is 00, I think.  

I never attach cables and immediately try to start the dead vehicle.   I give it a bit to at least try to recover the battery a bit before attempting to make that big current draw with the starter.
Link Posted: 9/4/2016 2:10:46 PM EDT
[#8]
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Quoted:

You have never tried to start a diesel in sub zero weather, let alone a 24 volt Cat or any multiple battery truck. I've melted 1's, and bigger. Good clamps and a 0 minimum. May be heavy but will always work for anything, welding wire is better for the reasons stated. Build them once build them for anything.
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Lol, you don't want anything with a /0 in the size, especially at 15-20 feet in length. #2 AWG will handle anything that needs to be done on 12 or 24v systems down to sub-zero temps.

You have never tried to start a diesel in sub zero weather, let alone a 24 volt Cat or any multiple battery truck. I've melted 1's, and bigger. Good clamps and a 0 minimum. May be heavy but will always work for anything, welding wire is better for the reasons stated. Build them once build them for anything.


Lol, right. I retired after 26 years as a field mechanic with Cat. I didn't really work on systems from 24 - 120 vdc every single day, it was all just a really bad dream.
Link Posted: 9/4/2016 2:14:52 PM EDT
[#9]
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Quoted:
350MCM welding cable is the only answer.
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High strand count for flexibility
Link Posted: 9/4/2016 2:20:09 PM EDT
[#10]
I've been using the same set of 25' long X 2awg cables for a couple decades. They've never let me down.
Link Posted: 9/4/2016 2:24:09 PM EDT
[#11]
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Quoted:
When I was in High School I jumped a car with speaker wire 18ga
It got hot
I should have used bigger wire
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Try a coat hanger for the hot and metal car bumpers touching for the ground.

That is old school.
Link Posted: 9/4/2016 2:32:33 PM EDT
[#12]
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Quoted:

You have never tried to start a diesel in sub zero weather, let alone a 24 volt Cat or any multiple battery truck.  I've melted 1's, and bigger. Good clamps and a 0 minimum. May be heavy but will always work for anything, welding wire is better for the reasons stated. Build them once build them for anything.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Lol, you don't want anything with a /0 in the size, especially at 15-20 feet in length. #2 AWG will handle anything that needs to be done on 12 or 24v systems down to sub-zero temps.

You have never tried to start a diesel in sub zero weather, let alone a 24 volt Cat or any multiple battery truck.  I've melted 1's, and bigger. Good clamps and a 0 minimum. May be heavy but will always work for anything, welding wire is better for the reasons stated. Build them once build them for anything.

24Vs actually halves the current... And thus the voltage drop as well...

For normal people vehicles <15ft I probably wouldn't go bigger than 2awg or so, make sure it had good clamps.

Length has a huge contribution on how thick it needs to be, twice the length of the cable doubles your voltage drop. There are tables for resistance of the wire...
Link Posted: 9/4/2016 2:38:32 PM EDT
[#13]
Real men carry a piece of 6 solid and touch bumpers.

Go with welding cable and parrot claw. Cut the positive short so the clamps hang separated. Long negative can still reach engine. Keep bottled water around to save your eyes when the battery blows.
Link Posted: 9/4/2016 2:44:04 PM EDT
[#14]
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Quoted:
Lol, you don't want anything with a /0 in the size, especially at 15-20 feet in length. #2 AWG will handle anything that needs to be done on 12 or 24v systems down to sub-zero temps.
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Says the guy with a Toyota.

OP, Good for you going with welding cable.  I made two pair about 30 years ago out of 3/0 with good clamps.

Don't skimp.  
Link Posted: 9/4/2016 2:45:50 PM EDT
[#15]
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Quoted:
Look at how thick the cables are that go from the battery to the starter motor, any bigger than that and it's a waste of cable.
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Ever hear of resistance?

Between the battery and starter is about 18".  OP is talking 15' to 20'.  There is a difference.

Do you even lift bro?
Link Posted: 9/4/2016 2:52:36 PM EDT
[#16]
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Quoted:


Says the guy with a Toyota.

OP, Good for you going with welding cable.  I made two pair about 30 years ago out of 3/0 with good clamps.

Don't skimp.  
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Lol, you don't want anything with a /0 in the size, especially at 15-20 feet in length. #2 AWG will handle anything that needs to be done on 12 or 24v systems down to sub-zero temps.


Says the guy with a Toyota.

OP, Good for you going with welding cable.  I made two pair about 30 years ago out of 3/0 with good clamps.

Don't skimp.  


Yup, never touched anything larger than a Toyota.
Link Posted: 9/4/2016 9:35:00 PM EDT
[#17]
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Quoted:


Lol, right. I retired after 26 years as a field mechanic with Cat. I didn't really work on systems from 24 - 120 vdc every single day, it was all just a really bad dream.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Lol, you don't want anything with a /0 in the size, especially at 15-20 feet in length. #2 AWG will handle anything that needs to be done on 12 or 24v systems down to sub-zero temps.

You have never tried to start a diesel in sub zero weather, let alone a 24 volt Cat or any multiple battery truck. I've melted 1's, and bigger. Good clamps and a 0 minimum. May be heavy but will always work for anything, welding wire is better for the reasons stated. Build them once build them for anything.


Lol, right. I retired after 26 years as a field mechanic with Cat. I didn't really work on systems from 24 - 120 vdc every single day, it was all just a really bad dream.


Hahaha

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Link Posted: 9/5/2016 8:47:05 PM EDT
[#18]
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Quoted:


Lol, right. I retired after 26 years as a field mechanic with Cat. I didn't really work on systems from 24 - 120 vdc every single day, it was all just a really bad dream.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Lol, you don't want anything with a /0 in the size, especially at 15-20 feet in length. #2 AWG will handle anything that needs to be done on 12 or 24v systems down to sub-zero temps.

You have never tried to start a diesel in sub zero weather, let alone a 24 volt Cat or any multiple battery truck. I've melted 1's, and bigger. Good clamps and a 0 minimum. May be heavy but will always work for anything, welding wire is better for the reasons stated. Build them once build them for anything.


Lol, right. I retired after 26 years as a field mechanic with Cat. I didn't really work on systems from 24 - 120 vdc every single day, it was all just a really bad dream.

I can guarantee you in the logging industry we have had sub zero days where D6's, 8's and 325's would not start, and we have burned up lesser cables, trying to get them started on cold ass mornings, extremely cold takes more amperage due to trying to start a cold ass diesel, with oil that becomes as thick as sludge when it is that cold, we've had to use space heaters to warm the oil enough to just turn over.
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