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Posted: 2/1/2018 1:44:14 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Just saw a chart showing deaths vs elevation. Seriously, how shitty would it be to die at base camp??  Aviator |
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Posted: 2/1/2018 1:45:04 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you think Everest climbers are crazy, check out K2 Almost as high Alot harder to climb |
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Posted: 2/1/2018 2:02:29 PM EDT
[#3]
Snow melts well up there. The sun is really intense, and even on the snow fields it can get hot during daylight hours.
The stuff you see blowing off the top of Everest isn't snow for the most part, it is evaporation. |
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Posted: 2/1/2018 4:23:52 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
It's a values thing... Is your life long dream truly reached if you stepping over desperate mountain brothers to get there? If so, I don't give a fuck about your story or you. "I gave up my summit (to try) to save someone's life in the death zone," is someone who I want to hear from and be around. In Sharp's case, he might have been unsalvagable. Is the Ironman World Championship in Kona any less challenging and prestigious because amateur lottery winners get to race it without qualifying? Fuck no...I’ve done six marathons and a full Ironman, and Kona is still the king. |
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Posted: 2/1/2018 4:38:49 PM EDT
[#5]
After the ice fall killed all those sherpas, more people are climbing Everest from the Chinese side.
Besides, you can now drive your car to the Everest base camp (on the Chinese side). 
Turn left to go to Everest: 
Youtube: Driving in China/Drive to Mt.Everest Base Camp Mt. Everest Climb from North Side 2016 |
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Posted: 2/1/2018 5:47:11 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: When they say 40 people passed him, they were on their way up, including a group with a huge amount of support that was supporting summiting the first double amputee. Based on the initial reports, they all basically stepped over the guy on their way to their own personal glory. (Further details suggest Sharp was beyond help, but those saying so were the ones under scrutiny) My friends and I were rather disgusted when we heard the news reports on our the door to ski. We mocked the heartlessness by staging a photo on a 13er (that's a 13,xxx ft peak, not an arfcom 13er) where I wore an "oxygen" mask and laid down desperately reaching up for help toward my friend who feigned pissing on me. After we took the picture we prepared to go up the ridge we were to ski. A guy coming down the ridge asked us WTF are you guys doing? Turns out he'd been to Everest 4x. He hadn't heard what happened, but was horrified when we told him. I bet 75% of today's population couldn't drag a guy covered in gear across the highway if asked. How , regardless of motives or greed, do you expect folks to successfully rescue someone from those locations. If the code was SAVE EVERYONE the mountain could turn into one giant recovery party There is a NYT about recovering the 4 dead Indian climbers who refused to heed the turn around time. It took thousands of dollars and multiple teams of sherpas in good weather to do it. How someone could think a barely functioning climber from the US or Europe could do it is beyond me. Anyone who claims greed has never and will never drag 200lbs down that mountain. They are just being mouthy to be mouthy. |
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Posted: 2/1/2018 9:37:51 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I live in WA state and we have Mount Rainier ( I think its around 15,000 feet and the highest in the state )- and yea every couple years someone dies up there due to some extreme accident / unforseen problem while trying to ascent the summit. |
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Posted: 2/1/2018 9:46:22 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You may know what it's like to exert yourself at 13,000 feet plus but I bet the majority of those outraged at the thought of leaving the guy to die liken it to simply pulling their car over on the side of the road and getting out to ask if the person in the accident needs you to call 911 I bet 75% of today's population couldn't drag a guy covered in gear across the highway if asked. How , regardless of motives or greed, do you expect folks to successfully rescue someone from those locations. If the code was SAVE EVERYONE the mountain could turn into one giant recovery party There is a NYT about recovering the 4 dead Indian climbers who refused to heed the turn around time. It took thousands of dollars and multiple teams of sherpas in good weather to do it. How someone could think a barely functioning climber from the US or Europe could do it is beyond me. Anyone who claims greed has never and will never drag 200lbs down that mountain. They are just being mouthy to be mouthy. |
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Posted: 2/1/2018 9:53:16 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You may know what it's like to exert yourself at 13,000 feet plus but I bet the majority of those outraged at the thought of leaving the guy to die liken it to simply pulling their car over on the side of the road and getting out to ask if the person in the accident needs you to call 911 I bet 75% of today's population couldn't drag a guy covered in gear across the highway if asked. How , regardless of motives or greed, do you expect folks to successfully rescue someone from those locations. If the code was SAVE EVERYONE the mountain could turn into one giant recovery party There is a NYT about recovering the 4 dead Indian climbers who refused to heed the turn around time. It took thousands of dollars and multiple teams of sherpas in good weather to do it. How someone could think a barely functioning climber from the US or Europe could do it is beyond me. Anyone who claims greed has never and will never drag 200lbs down that mountain. They are just being mouthy to be mouthy. the controversey when the original reports came out were that he was mobile but ignored by ascending teams later reports were that many teams just didn't notice him and when someone finally noticed him he couldnt stand even with support, making it very risky even if you had 6 or 12 sherpas with you In fact, it took 6 sherpas to get a stumbling disabled Turkish girl down from (3rd step?) above Sharp to camp the same day. They were already occupied on the way down. Many question what if they had helped on their way up? There was another man named Hall who was rescued from above Sharps position, but again he could (kinda) walk. Everyone who came down said that Sharp couldn't walk even with help. That means death is all but expectant. This is a good read: https://www.outsideonline.com/1909966/over-top |
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Posted: 2/1/2018 9:55:38 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
After the ice fall killed all those sherpas, more people are climbing Everest from the Chinese side. Besides, you can now drive your car to the Everest base camp (on the Chinese side). http://adventureblog.nationalgeographic.com/files/2016/05/paved-road-everest-base-camp-tibet.jpg Turn left to go to Everest: http://www.watchtheworld.net/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/photo-base-camp-everest-china-1.jpg Youtube: Driving in China/Drive to Mt.Everest Base Camp Mt. Everest Climb from North Side 2016 |
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Posted: 2/2/2018 9:47:27 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You may know what it's like to exert yourself at 13,000 feet plus but I bet the majority of those outraged at the thought of leaving the guy to die liken it to simply pulling their car over on the side of the road and getting out to ask if the person in the accident needs you to call 911 I bet 75% of today's population couldn't drag a guy covered in gear across the highway if asked. How , regardless of motives or greed, do you expect folks to successfully rescue someone from those locations. If the code was SAVE EVERYONE the mountain could turn into one giant recovery party There is a NYT about recovering the 4 dead Indian climbers who refused to heed the turn around time. It took thousands of dollars and multiple teams of sherpas in good weather to do it. How someone could think a barely functioning climber from the US or Europe could do it is beyond me. Anyone who claims greed has never and will never drag 200lbs down that mountain. They are just being mouthy to be mouthy. |
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Posted: 2/2/2018 12:15:09 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Everest is still king..... Just because Doctors and lawyers have climbed it, doesn’t mean it’s not the highest point on earth. Is the Ironman World Championship in Kona any less challenging and prestigious because amateur lottery winners get to race it without qualifying? Fuck no...I’ve done six marathons and a full Ironman, and Kona is still the king. Anyways... I still stand by my belief that K2 IS THE UNDISPUTED KING of mountains. The "mountain of mountains". Perfection created by the artistic brush of nature. My favorite stunning view of K2 from the north: 
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Posted: 2/2/2018 12:22:30 PM EDT
[#13]
Also, regarding K2, and regarding UNSELFISHNESS in the high mountains... you need to know the story of the 1953 American team that went to K2. They proved that you don't have to be a selfishly driven asshole to create a beautiful story in the mountains. They did things right. They lived with honor and are honored because of it.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1953_American_Karakoram_expedition |
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Posted: 2/2/2018 9:30:58 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Also, regarding K2, and regarding UNSELFISHNESS in the high mountains... you need to know the story of the 1953 American team that went to K2. They proved that you don't have to be a selfishly driven asshole to create a beautiful story in the mountains. They did things right. They lived with honor and are honored because of it. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1953_American_Karakoram_expedition Well, after reading that, I just bought K2 The Savage Mountain by Dr. Houston |
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Posted: 2/2/2018 9:46:13 PM EDT
[#15]
Were it not for Schoening and his ice axe, I'm not sure I'd have this photo.
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Posted: 2/2/2018 9:50:00 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I guess it is if you're talking about several hundred extra feet (over K2). But K2, Annapurna, Nanga Parbat, and several other 8,000ers are far more treacherous. They just don't have the allure to some because you can't say "I climbed Mount Everest". But as someone who used to do a fair bit of climbing (mostly ice climbing), I can safely say that I'd MUCH rather be able to say that I climbed one of those "mountaineer's mountains", than "I climbed that mountain that those couple of thousand doctors, lawyers, postal carriers, socialites, etc" climbed. And for that matter, I'd much rather be able to say that I trekked solo across Antarctica than that I'd climbed Everest. I'm serious. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
29,000+ feet. Mt. Everest is in a place by itself. Over the years there has been speculation that Mallory & Irvine actually summited the mountain, but both died on the way down, based on location of some of their gear, their bodies, plus sightings of them the day of their climb. The allure is there. But having too many friends have issues with altitude climbs, I decided early out that Scotland's Munros & New England's Whites were enough challenge for me. It's easy to see if in other's eyes. I talked a few folks out of summit attempts in the Whites when weather was ugly & iffy. Hard granite is no place to be in high winds & driving snow. It is THE tallest. Not the coldest, not the hardest, not the most dangerous. Just the tallest. A place entirely by itself. |
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Posted: 2/2/2018 9:50:53 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Also, regarding K2, and regarding UNSELFISHNESS in the high mountains... you need to know the story of the 1953 American team that went to K2. They proved that you don't have to be a selfishly driven asshole to create a beautiful story in the mountains. They did things right. They lived with honor and are honored because of it. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1953_American_Karakoram_expedition |
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Posted: 2/2/2018 10:20:46 PM EDT
[#18]
I often wonder what it takes to do things like this. As a scientist I have an interest in a ton of things I don't actually do, and mountain climbing is one of them. For me, it's drawing parallels to things that I do regularly.
When I was in the Austrian Alps snowboarding, I was at 11,000 feet, above the clouds, and I was out of breath when I bent over to strap in. Sure, I wasn't prepared as I live close to sea level, but I can't even comprehend being 17,000 feet above that. When I fly and the aircraft has those seatback computers, I'll occasionally check where we are. Sometimes I see that we're at 28,000 feet, where it's -30 or something like that. I am reminded that the summit of Everest is actually higher than that. I watched Meru, and was taken most not by the insane route of the climb (it was) but by the fact that they were suspended on the side of a mountain - in a portable tent - for days. That's just insane. I am more than happy to get my adrenaline rush elsewhere - SCUBA, for example - but that doesn't mean I don't enjoy the insane aspect of mountaineering. |
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Posted: 2/2/2018 11:49:36 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Were it not for Schoening and his ice axe, I'm not sure I'd have this photo. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/203937/12th_Pitch_Bivy-431569.jpg |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 12:21:50 AM EDT
[#20]
I remember seeing this video years ago:
 Ueli Steck New Speed Record Eiger 2015 And didn't realize this until pulling above vidoe:  Failed To Load Title |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 4:58:56 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryGreat! Good stuff. Have read it several times. I also dig Jim Curran's and Ed Veisters' books on the 1986 and 2008 K2 disasters.
I highly recommend the book Fallen Giants for a great overview on the golden age of Himalayan mountaiineering. It's my favorite book on the Himalaya. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 5:01:13 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That's exactly what I'm talking about. It is THE tallest. Not the coldest, not the hardest, not the most dangerous. Just the tallest. A place entirely by itself. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 5:03:45 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted: That's a bad example. It seems that most experts agree that the entire expedition would have died trying to save Gilkey if he hadn't fallen to his death. 
Because that was my point. They put their own lives on the line for their fellow man. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 5:06:43 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I remember seeing this video years ago:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NfpYNr7es0Y
And didn't realize this until pulling above vidoe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6GoRKvFWKQ
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Posted: 2/3/2018 5:14:43 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I am in fairly good shape, and I hike to 4000 feet or so. I pretty much know if I even sprain my ankle im in a fucking heap of trouble. and its warm and dry. I would have a hard time getting my 50lb kid down from up there if I had to carry him. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 5:43:05 PM EDT
[#26]
I went for 37 days in 2012 on a whim. I had the time off from work after I was removed from the schedule so a new hire could be trained. I left the day after I found out I would have that much time off work. I did zero prep. I had no idea what I was doing. I didn't summit and I had no intention to do so. I made it up to just over 6500 meters without any problems and with zero oxygen or assistance. I carried my own gear and food and I was solo. Was it smart? Probably not. Was it one of the best trips of my life? Undoubtedly. It's hard to explain. You're either a mountain person or you're not. I'd go again if given the time.
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Posted: 2/3/2018 6:00:46 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: My first exposure to altitude was at the La Paz, Bolivia airport (elevation 13, 332 ft) in 1992. A quarter mile hike flat wore my ass out (and I was in excellent shape at the time). Needed O2 bottle to sleep at night for the first two nights. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 6:10:23 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I went for 37 days in 2012 on a whim. I had the time off from work after I was removed from the schedule so a new hire could be trained. I left the day after I found out I would have that much time off work. I did zero prep. I had no idea what I was doing. I didn't summit and I had no intention to do so. I made it up to just over 6500 meters without any problems and with zero oxygen or assistance. I carried my own gear and food and I was solo. Was it smart? Probably not. Was it one of the best trips of my life? Undoubtedly. It's hard to explain. You're either a mountain person or you're not. I'd go again if given the time. 
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Posted: 2/3/2018 6:11:11 PM EDT
[#29]
In Current News:
Polish climbing team launches search and rescue for two missing climbers @7300m on NANGA PARBAT... IN WINTER... Nanga Parbat is deadlier than K2 percentagewise. The Poles located one climber, but the other is presumed dead. Those Polish rescuers detached from the elite Polish climber team attempting to summit K2 in Winter. K2 is the only 8000m peak that has not been summited in Winter. They fucking came from another mountain. HOLY. SHIT. That is humanity above summit. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 6:14:11 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: A bad example of what? A climbing TEAM putting their humanity above summiting?
Because that was my point. They put their own lives on the line for their fellow man. If your point is that the Everest climbers should have died to try to save another when they know it is not going to work, you are simply wrong. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 6:20:01 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: No, they were on their way to suicide before he died. That is not a good thing. Noble self-sacrifice dying to save an unsaveable victim is not noble or smart. If your point is that the Everest climbers should have died to try to save another when they know it is not going to work, you are simply wrong. I understand rescuer safety and making no more victims... but these were teammates. You don't give up on your teammates if there is a chance and no other options. By some codes of ethics, you go down with them. On the same code, one teammate may have sacrificed himself with the idea he was saving the others. But also look at what I posted right before your post... not teammates... just fellow climbers... from another mountain! |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 6:25:46 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There is debate. Members of that expedition felt could do it. I understand rescuer safety and making no more victims... but these were teammates. You don't give up on your teammates if there is a chance and no other options. By some codes of ethics, you go down with them. On the same code, one teammate may have sacrificed himself with the idea he was saving the others. But also look at what I posted right before your post... not teammates... just fellow climbers... from another mountain! On Everest the "Death Zone" is called that for a reason. One simply has no resources to try to save another and live. To condemn others from a distance is just not fair. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 6:32:12 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Gonna need a little more info, new guy. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 6:34:53 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Good job. On Everest the "Death Zone" is called that for a reason. One simply has no resources to try to save another and live. To condemn others from a distance is just not fair. There are examples of rescue from the Death Zone on Everest too, not always successful (although they require some level mobility on the part of the victim). Every situation is different, and there are ethical gray zones, but the philosophy of every man for himself if there is added risk to assist is not an ethic mountaineers' mountaineers ascribe to. Humanity over summit as @Red_Label put it... |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 6:37:03 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm happy to answer your questions. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 6:51:05 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Got pictures? Did you just fly to Katmandu and start walking? |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 7:10:13 PM EDT
[#37]
I flew from Atlanta to Detroit to Amsterdam to New Delhi to Kathmandu to Lukla. From there I started my trek...
Ramp in Lukla. The worlds most dangerous airport. 
Aircraft that brought us in. Dornier Do 228 
This is "Arthur" I don't know his real name. I made friends with him shortly after arriving by feeding him a hardboiled egg. He followed and slept with me for the entirety of the trip. Yes... I fed him. The locals informed me that this was his modus operandi and that I was the lucky one to be chosen. 
Some of the grub along the way. 
Typical trail along the way. I was in shorts and a t-shirt for the first two weeks. I even got a sunburn. 
More trail views. 
Namche Bazaar (3440 meters) Stayed here a few days for acclimation. Even found a billiards table that a guy carried up on his back. Amazing. 
A younger me. 
Radio / Weather Equipment (5550 meters) 
Prayer Rock (Everest Base Camp) 
Acclimation Day. Kala Patthar summited. 
Me exhausted after carrying a 17 year old girl down the mountain after she passed out. She suffered from AMS. Returned her to Gorak Shep. 
Me again in a tea hut I stayed at along the way. Don't recall the location at the moment. 
Everest in all her glory. 
ETA - Sorry guys. Tried to make the pictures visible. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 7:19:56 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I flew from Atlanta to Detroit to Amsterdam to New Delhi to Kathmandu to Lukla. From there I started my trek... Ramp in Lukla. The worlds most dangerous airport. http://i66.tinypic.com/e0h3y8.jpg Aircraft that brought us in. Dornier Do 228 http://i66.tinypic.com/11spndi.jpg This is "Arthur" I don't know his real name. I made friends with him shortly after arriving by feeding him a hardboiled egg. He followed and slept with me for the entirety of the trip. Yes... I fed him. The locals informed me that this was his modus operandi and that I was the lucky one to be chosen. http://i67.tinypic.com/10n7pfl.jpg Some of the grub along the way. http://i64.tinypic.com/15pfort.jpg Typical trail along the way. I was in shorts and a t-shirt for the first two weeks. I even got a sunburn. http://i67.tinypic.com/10opiro.jpg More trail views. http://i65.tinypic.com/of7wur.jpg Namche Bazaar (3440 meters) Stayed here a few days for acclimation. Even found a billiards table that a guy carried up on his back. Amazing. http://i67.tinypic.com/53tdh3.jpg A younger me. http://i65.tinypic.com/2ljgfeq.jpg Radio / Weather Equipment (5550 meters) http://i64.tinypic.com/289eq0p.jpg Prayer Rock (Everest Base Camp) http://i67.tinypic.com/24vqyxe.jpg Acclimation Day. Kala Patthar summited. http://i68.tinypic.com/nnljd5.jpg Me exhausted after carrying a 17 year old girl down the mountain after she passed out. She suffered from AMS. Returned her to Gorak Shep. http://i67.tinypic.com/o69nd0.jpg Me again in a tea hut I stayed at along the way. Don't recall the location at the moment. http://i63.tinypic.com/246kgec.jpg Everest in all her glory. http://i64.tinypic.com/vzhnhd.jpg Welcome to the site, bro! 
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Posted: 2/3/2018 7:24:25 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Well damn. Welcome to the site, bro! |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 7:31:48 PM EDT
[#40]
Amen, nice pics.
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Posted: 2/3/2018 7:42:06 PM EDT
[#41]
Awesome. Love reading climbing and mountaineering books, but im not a climber.
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Posted: 2/3/2018 8:02:43 PM EDT
[#42]
Holy shit, new guy!
Welcome to the site. I have thought that if I have the time it would be cool to do the same thing. That would be enough for me. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 8:06:38 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Gonna need a little more info, new guy. He wasn't saying he shot OBL, the dude make a seemingly believable post. Christ |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 8:07:26 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Were it not for Schoening and his ice axe, I'm not sure I'd have this photo. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/203937/12th_Pitch_Bivy-431569.jpg |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 8:10:39 PM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Holy shit, new guy! Welcome to the site. I have thought that if I have the time it would be cool to do the same thing. That would be enough for me. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 8:14:13 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I flew from Atlanta to Detroit to Amsterdam to New Delhi to Kathmandu to Lukla. From there I started my trek... Ramp in Lukla. The worlds most dangerous airport. http://i66.tinypic.com/e0h3y8.jpg Aircraft that brought us in. Dornier Do 228 http://i66.tinypic.com/11spndi.jpg This is "Arthur" I don't know his real name. I made friends with him shortly after arriving by feeding him a hardboiled egg. He followed and slept with me for the entirety of the trip. Yes... I fed him. The locals informed me that this was his modus operandi and that I was the lucky one to be chosen. http://i67.tinypic.com/10n7pfl.jpg Some of the grub along the way. http://i64.tinypic.com/15pfort.jpg Typical trail along the way. I was in shorts and a t-shirt for the first two weeks. I even got a sunburn. http://i67.tinypic.com/10opiro.jpg More trail views. http://i65.tinypic.com/of7wur.jpg Namche Bazaar (3440 meters) Stayed here a few days for acclimation. Even found a billiards table that a guy carried up on his back. Amazing. http://i67.tinypic.com/53tdh3.jpg A younger me. http://i65.tinypic.com/2ljgfeq.jpg Radio / Weather Equipment (5550 meters) http://i64.tinypic.com/289eq0p.jpg Prayer Rock (Everest Base Camp) http://i67.tinypic.com/24vqyxe.jpg Acclimation Day. Kala Patthar summited. http://i68.tinypic.com/nnljd5.jpg Me exhausted after carrying a 17 year old girl down the mountain after she passed out. She suffered from AMS. Returned her to Gorak Shep. http://i67.tinypic.com/o69nd0.jpg Me again in a tea hut I stayed at along the way. Don't recall the location at the moment. http://i63.tinypic.com/246kgec.jpg Everest in all her glory. http://i64.tinypic.com/vzhnhd.jpg ETA - Sorry guys. Tried to make the pictures visible. 
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Posted: 2/3/2018 8:29:27 PM EDT
[#47]
I highly recommend Ed Viesturs' books about his climbing experiences, especially, "No Shortcuts to the Top". The man has climbed all 14 8000'ers without supplemental oxygen. Everest may be not be the deadliest mountain out there, but it is still quite the accomplishment to summit, and deadly to even the most experienced high-altitude climbers.
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Posted: 2/3/2018 8:41:56 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Thank you. You should go. I would love to return but I have zero interest in summiting. I need my fingers and toes to do my work and pull the bang switch from time to time. Just not worth the risk for me personally. Just getting out there and seeing it in person was amazing. I made a lot of friends that I still keep in touch with and the memories will never fade. The problems with being an adventurous and curious person is that life is too short to do it all. Still, just to stand at the bottom of the ice fall would be a dream realized. Good for you. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 8:56:31 PM EDT
[#49]
Polish Expedition blog on the Nanga Parbat Rescue - In Polish, but even Google Translate renders amazing writing
"When we got up and sat down to breakfast, the offer came: You have to help them, gentlemen! ... Here, in Pakistan, We. We realized that we are their only chance. We are prepared, we have equipment, we are acclimatized. And we want, we want and we can help them! We go to the warehouse, prepare equipment, Krzysztof hangs on the phone. It's so simple. You have to call the heli, pack the rescuers and after 3 hours we drive into the Nangi wall. ... There will be a flight. We fly! The propellers have started. We're running on helipad, we're pushing the sackcloth. From the bottom, the whirring of engines grows over the moraine. We're flying after them, we're flying! I know, I know it. We'll save them! Propellers intensify the wind, terrible cold, rattle hands. They're chattering. I look at the faces of this four. Their joy, their determination, their stubbornness. Yes, in that moment I felt proud that I was Polish. No doubts. No hesitation. We are all convinced of the rightness of the decision. ... There is an information that Eli and Tomek were at the top. But what does it matter? We do not care. It's ... they've arrived. Like the wolves who were captured, Denis and Adam rushed to the wall. Night falls, wind, cold, and They are walking, one meter behind the subway Kuluar Kinshofer towards Eli and Tom. They're out there somewhere, Eli knows, she knows they're coming for her." Interview with Urubko, one of the Polish rescuers (in Polish) Sounds like Elizabeth would have died on the Kinshoffer Wall (technical section) without them. Weather made it impossible to fly up for Tomek who was last seen unconscious at 7300m days prior. She spent 2 nights in the open, no sleeping bag or tent... and a combo of hypothermia, hypoxia, exhaustion, and dehydration made her hallucinate and take her boot off in a dream. She woke up missing one boot with severe frostbite. She managed to still downclimb to one of her camps where the rescuers found her. I saw some pics of Elizabeths feet and hands. She is back in Europe and they'll make the amputation decision any day now. |
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Posted: 2/3/2018 9:52:51 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
OK... tell the story Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Were it not for Schoening and his ice axe, I'm not sure I'd have this photo. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/203937/12th_Pitch_Bivy-431569.jpg In the K2 expedition, George Bell was the first to lose his footing in the chain reaction that was ultimately arrested by Pete Schoening. Schoening's belay saved the day, but it also saved everything that happened after that. Bell went on to have a son, also named George, and the younger Bell also became an avid climber. The younger Bell wrote an article that appeared in a 1992 issue of Climbing, titled The Forgotten Yosemite, about a phenomenal region of Canada that had sort of sat forgotten for decades after the brief flurry of first ascents. George went on to document and aggregate a lot of information on the region, recent ascents, and so forth, and in doing so, was instrumental in the success of a lot of parties that went in there in the 1990s. I had a number of conversations with George over the phone and we realize that we had two similar, geographically linked photographs, but separated by about a decade in time. On the left is George's photograph, and the second photo from the left is mine. George's photo is looking at the peak from where I took my photo, and my photo is facing where George was when he took his. And, George has a copy of my photo. 
Additionally, unknown to me at the time, a friend of mine from the same small town in Virginia happened to be about dozen or so miles north of us, also halfway up a granite wall, but socked with 17 inches of snow, a far cry from the few inches we received on the periphery of the storm. So, yeah, thanks to Pete for saving George's father's life, and thanks to everyone like them that inspired those that went on to follow somewhat similar footsteps. |
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