User Panel
User Panel
User Panel
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 9:37:15 AM EDT
[#1]
Test for voltage at the connections under the well cap. Could just be a faulty connection there. If you have juice there but wellpump isn't running, pull the pump and check the wiring. As the pump kicks on and off sometimes it will rub a spot through the wire jacket if it's touchhing the casing. Get a friend or two to help pull the pump.
If no juice at the well cap, your problem is likely at the pressure switch. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 9:41:08 AM EDT
[#2]
My well did the same thing two years ago. My well was 23 years old and the pump had gone out. $2700 dollar repair.
 |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 9:43:49 AM EDT
[#3]
A pressure tank is an accumulator. It hold pressure, so your pump does not need to cycle as much. Even when they fail, they don't eliminate all of the pressure in the system. They should just cause your pump to cycle more, since there is nothing there to help with the pressure.
Lack of pressure sounds like a pump. Also, look at check valves. These can fail and block the line. Can you access your pump? |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 9:48:08 AM EDT
[#4]
Did you check the pressure switch that turns the pump on/off?
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 9:48:55 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Did you check the pressure switch that turns the pump on/off? Good point. There should be a lever to manually cycle the switch too. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 9:49:33 AM EDT
[#6]
It could be the pump, the pressure switch, the control box, or the breakers for the well. It could also be corrosion in the pipe going to the pressure switch. If the tank goes bad and won't hold pressure(loses it's air buffer) it can burn out the switch, box, or pump due to the repeated on off cycles.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 9:57:04 AM EDT
[#7]
my pump, 60feet down, was killed by lightning strike once.....
if breaker good, pump power throw lever next to pressure tank(maybe) is good...then out to the well pipe! call well pump guy to prove your pump is good? good luck |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:00:55 AM EDT
[#8]
There should be a pressure gauge at the tank. Pressure switches are usually 40/60 which means they turn on at 40 lbs pressure and shut off at 60 lbs pressure. Turn off power to the pump. If you are below 40 lbs, when you turn the power on, you should hear a click from the pressure switch. If you don't, the switch is bad. If you do, the problem is your pump. I'm assuming your pump is in your well. The pump motor could be burned up (more likely) or the pump case has separated from the pump motor and is recycling the water in your well instead of delivering it to the house.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:05:03 AM EDT
[#9]
Your pressure switch, pull the cover,
The contacts (red arrows) - are they open or closed? 
Shit's (likely) hot BTW |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:05:36 AM EDT
[#10]
So is the pump running but you don't have water pressure?
Or is the pump not even coming on at all? If the pump is running but you don't have pressure, it sounds like the bladder in the tank is shot or it somehow lost all its air. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:12:00 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So is the pump running but you don't have water pressure? Or is the pump not even coming on at all? If the pump is running but you don't have pressure, it sounds like the bladder in the tank is shot or it somehow lost all its air. As noted by RDP above, the tank is not the issue. He'd still have water pressure, but the pump would cycle more often. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:12:43 AM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There should be a pressure gauge at the tank. Pressure switches are usually 40/60 which means they turn on at 40 lbs pressure and shut off at 60 lbs pressure. Turn off power to the pump. If you are below 40 lbs, when you turn the power on, you should hear a click from the pressure switch. If you don't, the switch is bad. If you do, the problem is your pump. I'm assuming your pump is in your well. The pump motor could be burned up (more likely) or the pump case has separated from the pump motor and is recycling the water in your well instead of delivering it to the house. If I turn on/off there is no noise whatsoever. Not from the pressure switch or anything and the pressure gauge is at 0. Looks like I need a new pressure switch maybe? My voltage meter is at work so I'll have to run in and grab that. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:18:34 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If I turn on/off there is no noise whatsoever. Not from the pressure switch or anything and the pressure gauge is at 0. Looks like I need a new pressure switch maybe? My voltage meter is at work so I'll have to run in and grab that. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
There should be a pressure gauge at the tank. Pressure switches are usually 40/60 which means they turn on at 40 lbs pressure and shut off at 60 lbs pressure. Turn off power to the pump. If you are below 40 lbs, when you turn the power on, you should hear a click from the pressure switch. If you don't, the switch is bad. If you do, the problem is your pump. I'm assuming your pump is in your well. The pump motor could be burned up (more likely) or the pump case has separated from the pump motor and is recycling the water in your well instead of delivering it to the house. If I turn on/off there is no noise whatsoever. Not from the pressure switch or anything and the pressure gauge is at 0. Looks like I need a new pressure switch maybe? My voltage meter is at work so I'll have to run in and grab that. Get your meter and check for power into the switch. If you have power, then the switch is probably bad. You can pick one up at Home Depot/Lowes etc. Make sure you get one that is set for the same pressures. While 40/60 is fairly normal, there are others (30/50, 20/40) available. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:20:20 AM EDT
[#14]
Turn off the breaker to your well and clean the points on your pressure switch, turn power back on.
Ants get smashed between the points and allow no electricity to pass, pretty common problem (well guy 25+ years experience) |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:22:46 AM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Your pressure switch, pull the cover, The contacts (red arrows) - are they open or closed? http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/plumbing/well/pressure_tank/pbwta43b.jpg Shit's (likely) hot BTW IDK, looks like this. 
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:24:37 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
IDK, looks like this. http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff392/Jcramer1911/3622EC2D-36B2-44A4-92F9-A9C1B4A25D3D.jpg Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Your pressure switch, pull the cover, The contacts (red arrows) - are they open or closed? http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/plumbing/well/pressure_tank/pbwta43b.jpg Shit's (likely) hot BTW IDK, looks like this. http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff392/Jcramer1911/3622EC2D-36B2-44A4-92F9-A9C1B4A25D3D.jpg Is that with the power on or off? |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:25:06 AM EDT
[#17]
Alright thanks a bunch
guys, I'll try cleaning everything up, if that doesnt work I'll grab my voltage meter and a new switch and hope that fixes it. How do I know what switch I need? From watching my gauge before it seems like it kicks on at 20, but not real sure. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:25:29 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted: IDK, looks like this. http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff392/Jcramer1911/3622EC2D-36B2-44A4-92F9-A9C1B4A25D3D.jpg Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Your pressure switch, pull the cover, The contacts (red arrows) - are they open or closed? http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/plumbing/well/pressure_tank/pbwta43b.jpg Shit's (likely) hot BTW IDK, looks like this. http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff392/Jcramer1911/3622EC2D-36B2-44A4-92F9-A9C1B4A25D3D.jpg Switch is closed as it should be at o psi, try cleaning the points. The points look good though. Might be a problem with your control box if it is a 220V pump motor. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:25:38 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Is that with the power on or off? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Your pressure switch, pull the cover, The contacts (red arrows) - are they open or closed? http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/plumbing/well/pressure_tank/pbwta43b.jpg Shit's (likely) hot BTW IDK, looks like this. http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff392/Jcramer1911/3622EC2D-36B2-44A4-92F9-A9C1B4A25D3D.jpg Is that with the power on or off? on |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:25:55 AM EDT
[#20]
pumps dead jim
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:27:26 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
pumps dead jim 
This |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:27:35 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
pumps dead jim lol. I really hope not. (that sounds like the more expensive fix ?) |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:28:35 AM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
on Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Your pressure switch, pull the cover, The contacts (red arrows) - are they open or closed? http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/plumbing/well/pressure_tank/pbwta43b.jpg Shit's (likely) hot BTW IDK, looks like this. http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff392/Jcramer1911/3622EC2D-36B2-44A4-92F9-A9C1B4A25D3D.jpg Is that with the power on or off? on When you turn the power off, those contacts should open. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:28:52 AM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If I turn on/off there is no noise whatsoever. Not from the pressure switch or anything and the pressure gauge is at 0. Looks like I need a new pressure switch maybe? My voltage meter is at work so I'll have to run in and grab that. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
There should be a pressure gauge at the tank. Pressure switches are usually 40/60 which means they turn on at 40 lbs pressure and shut off at 60 lbs pressure. Turn off power to the pump. If you are below 40 lbs, when you turn the power on, you should hear a click from the pressure switch. If you don't, the switch is bad. If you do, the problem is your pump. I'm assuming your pump is in your well. The pump motor could be burned up (more likely) or the pump case has separated from the pump motor and is recycling the water in your well instead of delivering it to the house. If I turn on/off there is no noise whatsoever. Not from the pressure switch or anything and the pressure gauge is at 0. Looks like I need a new pressure switch maybe? My voltage meter is at work so I'll have to run in and grab that. Check this first. I always keep an extra for emergencies. If it's not this it's either your pump or a wiring issue. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:29:13 AM EDT
[#25]
Take a look at Franklin electric. Troubleshooting starts on page 40 I believe. There's a lot of info in there.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:29:46 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: When you turn the power off, those contacts should open. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Your pressure switch, pull the cover, The contacts (red arrows) - are they open or closed? http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/plumbing/well/pressure_tank/pbwta43b.jpg Shit's (likely) hot BTW IDK, looks like this. http://i1233.photobucket.com/albums/ff392/Jcramer1911/3622EC2D-36B2-44A4-92F9-A9C1B4A25D3D.jpg Is that with the power on or off? on When you turn the power off, those contacts should open. NO...WTF are you talking about those points are pressure based not power based for fuck sakes??? |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:30:44 AM EDT
[#27]
whoever built my house buried the pressure tank in the dirt ..I had to dig that shit up with a shovel just to check it
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:31:40 AM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
NO...WTF are you talking about those points are pressure based not power based for fuck sakes??? I'll defer to the pro. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:32:44 AM EDT
[#29]
When you decide to pull the pump, look on line for a couple of strategies for preventing dropping the pump, motor, and line into the bottom of the hole. Do this early in the day and have the phone number for the well guys handy so they can come out early in the day to retrieve the gear and not ruin their Saturday evening.
Put two check valves in the line so a back up is available in case one fails. Don't put them in backwards. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:33:36 AM EDT
[#30]
lol. well when I turn the switch they dont do anything, it does seem like the would be pressure based. There is definitely electricity running to that switch, as it gives me a nice buzz when I touch it so I dont think its my breaker. Sounds like its the switch? How do I know which switch I need? |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:36:18 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'll defer to the pro. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: NO...WTF are you talking about those points are pressure based not power based for fuck sakes??? I'll defer to the pro. Looks by wire color you have a 120V pump and therefore no control box, if points on pressure switch are clean and you have power to the pressure switch and it is truly 120V which you can tell by the breaker being a single pole (120V) or double pole (220V) your proble is probably down the hole. So which is it 220V or 120V?? I can tell if the PS has power by putting a tapping couple fingers on the screws to see if they are hot...you may want to use a meter instead. ETA: manly way to check power to the PS..congrats |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:36:21 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
lol. well when I turn the switch they dont do anything, it does seem like the would be pressure based. There is definitely electricity running to that switch, as it gives me a nice buzz when I touch it so I dont think its my breaker. Sounds like its the switch? How do I know which switch I need? It may be on the pressure tank. Or google the part number of the switch. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:36:43 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
When you decide to pull the pump, look on line for a couple of strategies for preventing dropping the pump, motor, and line into the bottom of the hole. Do this early in the day and have the phone number for the well guys handy so they can come out early in the day to retrieve the gear and not ruin their Saturday evening. Put two check valves in the line so a back up is available in case one fails. Don't put them in backwards. I know my abilities and limitations. Replacing a switch I'll do, messing the the pump/well I'll call I guy. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:40:18 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I know my abilities and limitations. Replacing a switch I'll do, messing the the pump/well I'll call I guy. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: When you decide to pull the pump, look on line for a couple of strategies for preventing dropping the pump, motor, and line into the bottom of the hole. Do this early in the day and have the phone number for the well guys handy so they can come out early in the day to retrieve the gear and not ruin their Saturday evening. Put two check valves in the line so a back up is available in case one fails. Don't put them in backwards. I know my abilities and limitations. Replacing a switch I'll do, messing the the pump/well I'll call I guy. 99% of submersible pumps already have a check valve on the discharge head of the pump you only need one above ground between the well and the pressure tank...not two...rarely do check valves fail unless you buy the from Home Depot or Lowes. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:41:27 AM EDT
[#35]
Hire a pump guy to come out and fix it do not pull it yourself. You don't have the proper equipment to do so and can easily hurt yourself or others.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:44:08 AM EDT
[#36]
If you have voltage at the pressure switch and at the well head then I'm leaning towards a dead pump.
I watched the guys replace my pump. Next time I'm pretty confident I can change it myself with the help of two neighbors and a couple of 12' ladders. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:45:07 AM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Looks by wire color you have a 120V pump and therefore no control box, if points on pressure switch are clean and you have power to the pressure switch and it is truly 120V which you can tell by the breaker being a single pole (120V) or double pole (220V) your proble is probably down the hole. So which is it 220V or 120V?? I can tell if the PS has power by putting a tapping couple fingers on the screws to see if they are hot...you may want to use a meter instead. ETA: manly way to check power to the PS..congrats Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
NO...WTF are you talking about those points are pressure based not power based for fuck sakes??? I'll defer to the pro. Looks by wire color you have a 120V pump and therefore no control box, if points on pressure switch are clean and you have power to the pressure switch and it is truly 120V which you can tell by the breaker being a single pole (120V) or double pole (220V) your proble is probably down the hole. So which is it 220V or 120V?? I can tell if the PS has power by putting a tapping couple fingers on the screws to see if they are hot...you may want to use a meter instead. ETA: manly way to check power to the PS..congrats I aint afraid of a little electricity, although I probably should be. ha It is 220v |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:49:53 AM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted: If you have voltage at the pressure switch and at the well head then I'm leaning towards a dead pump. I watched the guys replace my pump. Next time I'm pretty confident I can change it myself with the help of two neighbors and a couple of 12' ladders. I don't recommend anyone that isn't a well pump guy screw with changing their own pump sice most people don't even know how to check their underwater splices. Pumps I am doing now are 450hp 4KV set at 980' that push 935 gpm. Just ordered 15 of them at about $700k a piece including phase shift, step down and step up transformers and VFD control panels with SCADA comms. Let a pro do your pump. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:50:53 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
99% of submersible pumps already have a check valve on the discharge head of the pump you only need one above ground between the well and the pressure tank...not two...rarely do check valves fail unless you buy the from Home Depot or Lowes. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
When you decide to pull the pump, look on line for a couple of strategies for preventing dropping the pump, motor, and line into the bottom of the hole. Do this early in the day and have the phone number for the well guys handy so they can come out early in the day to retrieve the gear and not ruin their Saturday evening. Put two check valves in the line so a back up is available in case one fails. Don't put them in backwards. I know my abilities and limitations. Replacing a switch I'll do, messing the the pump/well I'll call I guy. 99% of submersible pumps already have a check valve on the discharge head of the pump you only need one above ground between the well and the pressure tank...not two...rarely do check valves fail unless you buy the from Home Depot or Lowes. The only time I've had to install a new pump and motor was caused by an in line check valve failure. I don't recall a valve on the pump and I junked it years ago so I can't take a look. My pump is 300 feet down, and an extra check valve was cheap in comparison to the rest of the equipment. There is no other check valve above ground, although I suppose I could add one at the tank. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:51:52 AM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I aint afraid of a little electricity, although I probably should be. ha It is 220v Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: NO...WTF are you talking about those points are pressure based not power based for fuck sakes??? I'll defer to the pro. Looks by wire color you have a 120V pump and therefore no control box, if points on pressure switch are clean and you have power to the pressure switch and it is truly 120V which you can tell by the breaker being a single pole (120V) or double pole (220V) your proble is probably down the hole. So which is it 220V or 120V?? I can tell if the PS has power by putting a tapping couple fingers on the screws to see if they are hot...you may want to use a meter instead. ETA: manly way to check power to the PS..congrats I aint afraid of a little electricity, although I probably should be. ha It is 220v Then there should be a control box with with reset button on the bottom of it. Try the button. If that doesn't do it could be a bad start or run capacitor or a bad triad relay...you would be best served by calling a pump guy and paying him the $120 an hour to diagnose. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:53:25 AM EDT
[#41]
If you have a water softener,check the filter thats between the pressure tank and softener.
I had a prob with my well system,that was acting pretty close to your prob,a couple weeks ago.And it was the filter.Soaked in CLR for a few good minutes.Problem solved. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:57:48 AM EDT
[#42]
Funny story, pulled a bad pump in the early afternoon, dropped of new pump pipe and wires late afternoon for an early morning install the next day.
Set the pump at about 600' finish up hit the power...no water and pump is drawing amps like it is dead headed (low amps) chew my guys out for installing the check valve backwards down the hole. Rule of thumb is one check valve for every 200' of drop pipe. Pull the pump and a fucking gopher snake is packed into the check valve...how the fucker didn't fall out when hoisting pipe I'll never know. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 10:58:06 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: This Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: pumps dead jim This |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 11:03:15 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Funny story, pulled a bad pump in the early afternoon, dropped of new pump pipe and wires late afternoon for an early morning install the next day. Set the pump at about 600' finish up hit the power...no water and pump is drawing amps like it is dead headed (low amps) chew my guys out for installing the check valve backwards down the hole. Rule of thumb is one check valve for every 200' of drop pipe. Pull the pump and a fucking gopher snake is packed into the check valve...how the fucker didn't fall out when hoisting pipe I'll never know. ha damn. its experiences like that that make us pros at our jobs. If you done it ling enough you've seen (almost) everything. Con-sol I really appreciate your help and time. Any way you can help me find this control box? I dont know what it is or what it looks like. I dont see anything with a reset button. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 11:11:31 AM EDT
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted: ha damn. its experiences like that that make us pros at our jobs. If you done it ling enough you've seen (almost) everything. Con-sol I really appreciate your help and time. Any way you can help me find this control box? I dont know what it is or what it looks like. I dont see anything with a reset button. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Funny story, pulled a bad pump in the early afternoon, dropped of new pump pipe and wires late afternoon for an early morning install the next day. Set the pump at about 600' finish up hit the power...no water and pump is drawing amps like it is dead headed (low amps) chew my guys out for installing the check valve backwards down the hole. Rule of thumb is one check valve for every 200' of drop pipe. Pull the pump and a fucking gopher snake is packed into the check valve...how the fucker didn't fall out when hoisting pipe I'll never know. ha damn. its experiences like that that make us pros at our jobs. If you done it ling enough you've seen (almost) everything. Con-sol I really appreciate your help and time. Any way you can help me find this control box? I dont know what it is or what it looks like. I dont see anything with a reset button. If your power feed to the pump is 220V there is a gray control box somewhere there with your pump gear. If it is a 3hp or larger pump there will be a reset button on the bottom of the box. Smaller pump will not have reset button. All 220V 4" pump motors have a start & run capacitor and a triad relay that switches the power from the start capacitor to the run capacitor. looks like this;  |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 11:15:09 AM EDT
[#46]
The start capacitor is the big one and the run is the small one, usually the start capacitor is the one that goes out. Before you touch it with the pwoer off use your screwdriver to short it out across the terminals (discharge it) then with your digital or analog meter set it at 10k Ohms and test the two leads.
Should slowly increase resistance to show zero ohms or less than 500 ohms..capacitor is then good, if not capacitor is then bad and needs replacing. Did you clean the points on your pressure switch real good like I told you? |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 11:17:16 AM EDT
[#47]
thanks, I definitely don't think I have one of those. There's not one anywhere in line from my breaker to the area where my well stuff is. But at the breaker my pump is a 220v.
If you don't think my problem is my pressure switch I guess I'll try and get a hold of someone and have to be without water for a couple days. |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 11:19:37 AM EDT
[#48]
Mine has a little black button on the bottom of a gray box where the wires go in & out, last year the button which is a braker was blown, reset the button and I heard it start up, been going ever since.
|
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 11:22:00 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Did you check the pressure switch that turns the pump on/off? Yep this will do it, the 1/4 pipe that connects it will plug up with rust, it happens every couple of years |
|
|
|
Posted: 9/26/2015 11:22:51 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Looks by wire color you have a 120V pump and therefore no control box, if points on pressure switch are clean and you have power to the pressure switch and it is truly 120V which you can tell by the breaker being a single pole (120V) or double pole (220V) your proble is probably down the hole. So which is it 220V or 120V?? I can tell if the PS has power by putting a tapping couple fingers on the screws to see if they are hot...you may want to use a meter instead. ETA: manly way to check power to the PS..congrats Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: NO...WTF are you talking about those points are pressure based not power based for fuck sakes??? I'll defer to the pro. Looks by wire color you have a 120V pump and therefore no control box, if points on pressure switch are clean and you have power to the pressure switch and it is truly 120V which you can tell by the breaker being a single pole (120V) or double pole (220V) your proble is probably down the hole. So which is it 220V or 120V?? I can tell if the PS has power by putting a tapping couple fingers on the screws to see if they are hot...you may want to use a meter instead. ETA: manly way to check power to the PS..congrats OP also needs to check motor start and run capacitors which should be between switch and motor, on top sides. |
|
|
Win a FREE Membership!
Sign up for the ARFCOM weekly newsletter and be entered to win a free ARFCOM membership. One new winner* is announced every week!
You will receive an email every Friday morning featuring the latest chatter from the hottest topics, breaking news surrounding legislation, as well as exclusive deals only available to ARFCOM email subscribers.
AR15.COM is the world's largest firearm community and is a gathering place for firearm enthusiasts of all types.
From hunters and military members, to competition shooters and general firearm enthusiasts, we welcome anyone who values and respects the way of the firearm.
Subscribe to our monthly Newsletter to receive firearm news, product discounts from your favorite Industry Partners, and more.
Copyright © 1996-2024 AR15.COM LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Any use of this content without express written consent is prohibited.
AR15.Com reserves the right to overwrite or replace any affiliate, commercial, or monetizable links, posted by users, with our own.
