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Link Posted: 9/17/2019 7:38:14 AM EDT
[#1]
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Quoted:
Thank you for all of the replies.

The prices seem to be all over the place. I'm hoping to get it done for around $1600.00, but that might be a pipe dream.

I would really like this done by the end of this month so some of the suggestions won't work.

I would like to just throw grass seed on it afterwards.

It's a fairly flat peice of property with hardly any rocks. It's a 2.5 acre section, but there are several clear spots. I'd say there is only around 1.75 acres of actual trees. I don't want any of the large trees taken down so that ought to help.
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You could probably rent a dozer for a grand for a day.
Link Posted: 9/17/2019 7:50:11 AM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
I have a 2.5 acre spot that's pretty flat and has out of control Christmas trees in the 1" - 7" range. There are also some black locust trees in the 1" - 3" range mixed in. I'd like to get it around 80% cleared.

I've called a couple of different people to look at it but was wondering what the average rate would be.
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My neighbor knocked something similar out for me in four hours including loading, unloading and road time for $280 with a skid steer and a hydro brush hog.

He lives adjacent to me across the holler and only had to transit 3 miles though, and is a Christian neighbor, and we gave him some free legal advise on business development

You may pay $500 for the same if you can find a half day minimum kind of guy

$500 here in SW VA will also get you a mini hoe with a thumb  to pluck and leave up to an  acre of cedars, rose and olive in a half day on smooth low slope old pasture
Link Posted: 9/17/2019 7:52:18 AM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
I have a 2.5 acre spot that's pretty flat and has out of control Christmas trees in the 1" - 7" range. There are also some black locust trees in the 1" - 3" range mixed in. I'd like to get it around 80% cleared.

I've called a couple of different people to look at it but was wondering what the average rate would be.
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Did you mean feet (')?
Link Posted: 9/17/2019 7:57:30 AM EDT
[#4]
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Quoted:

Did you mean feet (')?
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I have a 2.5 acre spot that's pretty flat and has out of control Christmas trees in the 1" - 7" range. There are also some black locust trees in the 1" - 3" range mixed in. I'd like to get it around 80% cleared.

I've called a couple of different people to look at it but was wondering what the average rate would be.

Did you mean feet (')?
Diameter.
Link Posted: 9/17/2019 7:59:52 AM EDT
[#5]
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Quoted:
I’ve been wondering this same thing for a while as I have about 8-10 acres of hilly old pine growth (40-50’ trees) with 6-8’ of poplar undergrowth which is driving me nuts.

I typically walk around and drop the little brush clusters (up to 1” usually only like 3/8-1/2”) with a chainsaw and just leave it lay but I’m overly cautious as I have a friend who cut his leg twice (yes twice) doing this.

Any merit behind the sawblade style attachments for the heavier duty string trimmers?
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I have one of these bad boys for what you describe, they run around 1k though, but will go through 1" like a string trimmer and cut 3' or 4" in a few careful seconds

https://www.stihlusa.com/products/trimmers-and-brushcutters/brushcutters-and-clearing-saws/fs560cem/
Link Posted: 9/17/2019 8:01:45 AM EDT
[#6]
call your VA department of forestry office and see what their recommendation is.

http://www.dof.virginia.gov/locations/index.htm

Is it surrounded by field?

If so they might be able to burn it for you.

or rent a dozer for a day, run it all over and burn it yourself,
Link Posted: 9/17/2019 8:04:47 AM EDT
[#7]
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Quoted:

For anything less than 6" or so, I don't use my chainsaw (Stihl MS-180 or MS-362CM).  I use my Ridgid battery powered sawzall.  Mucho handier and far safer than a chainsaw IMO.
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And when you dull a blade you can trash it, replace it and be back in the game for $1 and 30 seconds of your time.  When cleaning fencerows, I usually only use my sawzall up to 3" or 4" though.  ETA: this ain't how I'd clear 2 overgrown acres though.

Back to the topic at hand, OP, I pay $85/hr. (including windshield time from their shop) for a Fecon FTX 250 (+mobilization to get it to the job), $120/hr. for a Cat 299 with a Fecon head &/or $140/hr. for a big Kubota skidsteer with a brushhog.  This is for 40/hr. a week steady work, so it is not necessarily all that applicable to you.  I just mention it because prices can be all over the board.
Link Posted: 9/17/2019 8:16:02 AM EDT
[#8]
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Quoted:
The prices seem to be all over the place. I'm hoping to get it done for around $1600.00, but that might be a pipe dream.

I would like to just throw grass seed on it afterwards.
View Quote
I'd think about finding a reputable somewhat local guy with a big skidsteer and a drum mower, tell him you have a $1,600 budget and see how far he thinks that will get you.  If it would get you a days worth of work, I think a good operator would be able to make a heck of a dent in your work, if not get it completed.

If there are a lot of locusts, be ready for the tire issues that will probably follow, but that is just the cost of doing business when you're getting rid of them.
Link Posted: 9/17/2019 8:18:57 AM EDT
[#9]
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Quoted:
I'd think about finding a reputable somewhat local guy with a big skidsteer and a drum mower, tell him you have a $1,600 budget and see how far he thinks that will get you.  If it would get you a days worth of work, I think a good operator would be able to make a heck of a dent in your work, if not get it completed.

If there are a lot of locusts, be ready for the tire issues that will probably follow, but that is just the cost of doing business when you're getting rid of them.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
The prices seem to be all over the place. I'm hoping to get it done for around $1600.00, but that might be a pipe dream.

I would like to just throw grass seed on it afterwards.
I'd think about finding a reputable somewhat local guy with a big skidsteer and a drum mower, tell him you have a $1,600 budget and see how far he thinks that will get you.  If it would get you a days worth of work, I think a good operator would be able to make a heck of a dent in your work, if not get it completed.

If there are a lot of locusts, be ready for the tire issues that will probably follow, but that is just the cost of doing business when you're getting rid of them.
Not a great way to open, he might see the project and only want a grand.
Link Posted: 9/17/2019 8:37:32 AM EDT
[#10]
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Quoted:
I don't know what your plan is to manage regeneration, but you better have one.
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Mine would be Arsenal  
Link Posted: 9/17/2019 9:05:16 AM EDT
[#11]
North Ga. I have a guy coming out at $200 an hour to expand land for my orchard and do general understory clearing on the rest. He’s got a massive skid steer and a drum mulcher.
Link Posted: 9/17/2019 10:15:56 AM EDT
[#12]
OP, what is the end goal for use of the property, once you are finished?  Can you do it in phases?  Are you turning into more of agrazing pasture, or golf course?
Link Posted: 9/17/2019 6:34:42 PM EDT
[#13]
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Quoted:

Mine would be Arsenal  
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not for pine regen, that only controls hardwoods.
Link Posted: 9/18/2019 6:27:24 AM EDT
[#14]
I had a guy look at it yesterday and he has talked me into doing a combination of brush mulching all of the smaller stuff (1-3"), and pushing everything bigger than that into piles for me to burn in a few months. He gave me a price of $2600+/-. This was quite a bit cheaper than just brush mulching the whole thing.

He said that a brush mulcher leaves the stumps flush with the ground, and with 5" and larger trees like I have that you end up with holes all over your property in a three or four years when they rot. I would end up having a LOT of holes.
Link Posted: 9/18/2019 6:34:02 AM EDT
[#15]
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Quoted:

I highly doubt a lumber company will be interested in 2ac of 1-7" trees.
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Unless it's right next door to a paper factory, biomass burner, or other pulpwood using process.....it's a solid nope.
Link Posted: 9/18/2019 6:44:06 AM EDT
[#16]
OP,

Where in VA are you.  I might have a guy.
Link Posted: 9/18/2019 8:11:37 AM EDT
[#17]
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Quoted:

He said that a brush mulcher leaves the stumps flush with the ground, and with 5" and larger trees like I have that you end up with holes all over your property in a three or four years when they rot. I would end up having a LOT of holes.
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Yeaaah not really.

The mulch will turn into dirt as it breaks down. As well the ground will naturally fill in the root area by sinking slightly.   Plus grass will grow over it, etc.  it generally doesn’t leave a noticeable hole at all. At most in a few years you run a disk over it to break the top soil up slightly and plant what you want.  Food plot / grasses. Or use a law roller for finish mowing. Both work.

Conversely, ripping the root ball right out and taking off the top 2-4 inches of dirt with a dozer, does lead to some erosion issues and pot hole issues that need to be filled in.

But I’m also not the one trying to get money from you.

I also own:





Big enough equipment to push and pile.

Yet we really don’t. Just doesn’t end up well.  My dad likes to play on the dozer but you just end up with a mess unless you rework the ground. And the pile you have to stir with an excavator to get to burn.
Link Posted: 9/18/2019 8:18:10 AM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Yeaaah not really.

The mulch will turn into dirt as it breaks down. As well the ground will naturally fill in the root area by sinking slightly.   Plus grass will grow over it, etc.  it generally doesn’t leave a noticeable hole at all. At most in a few years you run a disk over it to break the top soil up slightly and plant what you want.  Food plot / grasses. Or use a law roller for finish mowing. Both work.

Conversely, ripping the root ball right out and taking off the top 2-4 inches of dirt with a dozer, does lead to some erosion issues and pot hole issues that need to be filled in.

But I’m also not the one trying to get money from you.

I also own:

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/148484/20181028_120735-719785.jpg

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/148484/20190713_170011-1014723.jpg

Big enough equipment to push and pile.

Yet we really don’t. Just doesn’t end up well.  My dad likes to play on the dozer but you just end up with a mess unless you rework the ground. And the pile you have to stir with an excavator to get to burn.
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Quoted:
Quoted:

He said that a brush mulcher leaves the stumps flush with the ground, and with 5" and larger trees like I have that you end up with holes all over your property in a three or four years when they rot. I would end up having a LOT of holes.
Yeaaah not really.

The mulch will turn into dirt as it breaks down. As well the ground will naturally fill in the root area by sinking slightly.   Plus grass will grow over it, etc.  it generally doesn’t leave a noticeable hole at all. At most in a few years you run a disk over it to break the top soil up slightly and plant what you want.  Food plot / grasses. Or use a law roller for finish mowing. Both work.

Conversely, ripping the root ball right out and taking off the top 2-4 inches of dirt with a dozer, does lead to some erosion issues and pot hole issues that need to be filled in.

But I’m also not the one trying to get money from you.

I also own:

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/148484/20181028_120735-719785.jpg

https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/148484/20190713_170011-1014723.jpg

Big enough equipment to push and pile.

Yet we really don’t. Just doesn’t end up well.  My dad likes to play on the dozer but you just end up with a mess unless you rework the ground. And the pile you have to stir with an excavator to get to burn.
When the farmers here try to reclaim fields they usually have a guy come in a with a D9 and a big excavator (my neighbor) and he digs a huge ditch, pushes all the shit into it, then grades right back over top of it, they are usually planting the following year on it.

There are a lot of areas that used to be unusable because of drainage that some of the big farms have enough money to work on now, lots of new ditches and tile, every square foot of food counts for those guys.
Link Posted: 9/18/2019 8:19:08 AM EDT
[#19]
Edit: double tap
Link Posted: 9/18/2019 8:20:58 AM EDT
[#20]
edit: shit freaked out yo
Link Posted: 9/19/2019 8:53:52 AM EDT
[#21]
We had over 3k Xmas trees piled up 14 years ago. We still have piles. They have shrunk considerably, and are filled with raspberry bushes. They just don't burn. The ground was rutted big time, and your piles have so much dirt the fire constantly fizzled out. We had a neighbor spend a day with a disc trying to level it out, helped a lot, but his equipment was a little undersized.

We didn't keep up on it and so past year had it cleared again with the ground mulcher thing. Way better.

Everyone saying sell - doesn't work that way. They will start harvesting soon for trees they have been maintaining the last 7 years. They bring in trucks of Mexicans with machetes to trim them to shape and then will paint the good ones green and tag them for harvest. Land owner gets $1 per tree. My grandpa did it for a long time, and had about 10k trees. He liked it better than an open field to provide cover for deer. They aren't going to come get trees that have been growing wild.
Link Posted: 9/19/2019 9:05:40 AM EDT
[#22]
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Quoted:
I’ve been wondering this same thing for a while as I have about 8-10 acres of hilly old pine growth (40-50’ trees) with 6-8’ of poplar undergrowth which is driving me nuts.

I typically walk around and drop the little brush clusters (up to 1” usually only like 3/8-1/2”) with a chainsaw and just leave it lay but I’m overly cautious as I have a friend who cut his leg twice (yes twice) doing this.

Any merit behind the sawblade style attachments for the heavier duty string trimmers?
View Quote
I have a Stihl FS-85 and have cut 2" popular with the saw blade.  They work well for cutting small trees.  Much safer than a chainsaw.
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