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Posted: 7/24/2018 2:39:30 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I made one of these for a potato gun. GoPro Potato Cannon Round May be able to scale some of it to work in a can cannon We had some summer interns at the government site I work at. I hit it off with one kid. Just happens that he was first generation US citizen from Syria. I thought it would be a good idea to have a Syrian print mortar rounds and estes rocket bodies. No one at work got the joke but the kid. He had to hack a 3d systems cube x so it no longer required proprietary filament spools and could use unencrypted g-code. His last week of work we went out to a guys farm and shot all the stuff. The kid would fire the potato gun round and then get in a side-by-side and retrieve it. I also took him to a southern bbq joint during Ramadan.....for the beef and chicken  Cool story. |
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Posted: 7/24/2018 2:44:20 PM EDT
[#2]
Other projectiles I found.
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Posted: 7/24/2018 3:00:52 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Other projectiles I found. https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/d6/4e/fa/ce/48/463003b1b0cce86b87fa5fff2fc894d6_preview_featured.jpg https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/c4/ed/38/d7/cd/73a769c21c14c386d120150c0b07dce7_preview_featured.jpg https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/29/0a/eb/fd/09/1c09d4e9143718032a03811d13ac415e_preview_featured.jpg https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/78/f1/b2/61/14/d1d11aa3d32893871d6528ac07005cf9_preview_featured.jpg https://thingiverse-rerender-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/34/2f/b0/f5/1b/Morter_gap_5_res_10_preview_featured.jpg https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/c7/f5/53/07/7e/Spud_preview_featured.jpg |
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Posted: 7/24/2018 3:04:10 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So how much do those projectiles cost to make? Not including the printer. Any online shops that will print stuff for you if you get them the file? |
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Posted: 7/24/2018 3:36:17 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted: "Projectiles" |
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Posted: 7/24/2018 3:37:16 PM EDT
[#7]
And for you purists out there.
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Posted: 7/24/2018 4:47:27 PM EDT
[#8]
What you want to do is print off just one of the designs you want, then use that as a mold positive to make cast polyurethane projectiles.
You can make a pretty good mold using one of the kits from Smooth-On. |
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Posted: 7/24/2018 5:21:52 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
X2 Any online shops that will print stuff for you if you get them the file? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
So how much do those projectiles cost to make? Not including the printer. Any online shops that will print stuff for you if you get them the file? https://www.xometry.com/prototype-manufacturing?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=3D%2520Printing%2520Services%2520(Exact)&utm_term=3d%2520printing%2520prototyping&utm_content=3D%2520Printing%2520-%2520Prototypes |
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Posted: 7/24/2018 5:40:42 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryI’ll split the $15 with you. 
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Posted: 7/24/2018 5:57:11 PM EDT
[#11]
This talk of 3d printing reminds me of this.
 U.S. Army Successfully Tests 3D-Printed Grenade Launcher  AM Printed Grenade Launcher |
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Posted: 7/24/2018 7:04:28 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Sight picture: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/291BEB95-7508-42F8-A625-D0A163579782-617756.JPG From above: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/E72C5AAB-9E11-477F-A2D6-C95088349150-617757.JPG The front post clears the side of the launch tube (when the sight is folded out and you are aiming) by over an inch. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/F5A9389F-A987-40FE-B39A-06CE2DCB0F50-617759.JPG I’m pretty sure I could remove the detachable carry handle spacer I mentioned in the post above: This one https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/72F4BD6E-F5BF-4B41-AD86-F020C1956BCC-617758.JPG and the sights would still clear the launch tube fine. I’ll probably do that later when I have time to fool with it more. Hopefully these posts are helpful and clearer.  |
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Posted: 7/24/2018 7:55:05 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thats awesome. It needs a hole for one of those screeching whisels like on nerf foot balls. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Was looking for 3D printer models suitable for use as projectiles. Lots of spud gun projectiles that can be rescaled. Then I stumbled on this. Can Cannon 3D Projectile https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/e1/fb/5c/5f/0a/ce89e5a98dfb23930d9f480169721410_preview_featured.jpg My 3D printer has been clogged for months. I may need a new print head. Do you have any idea how much money I have saved because Uncle ASUsax's toy machine is broken? And now you give me a good reason to fix it. 
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Posted: 7/24/2018 9:53:45 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Awesome. I'll probably get one. Where did you get yours? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Sight picture: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/291BEB95-7508-42F8-A625-D0A163579782-617756.JPG From above: https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/E72C5AAB-9E11-477F-A2D6-C95088349150-617757.JPG The front post clears the side of the launch tube (when the sight is folded out and you are aiming) by over an inch. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/F5A9389F-A987-40FE-B39A-06CE2DCB0F50-617759.JPG I’m pretty sure I could remove the detachable carry handle spacer I mentioned in the post above: This one https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/72F4BD6E-F5BF-4B41-AD86-F020C1956BCC-617758.JPG and the sights would still clear the launch tube fine. I’ll probably do that later when I have time to fool with it more. Hopefully these posts are helpful and clearer. ETA: Here is a listing for a like new older style sight (without the detachable carry handle spacer). If it goes too high just wait and keep checking. There are a ton of them out there. https://www.ebay.com/itm/M203-Quadrant-Sight-Colt-rifle-Rock-River-DMPS-Armalite-NOS-USGI/223071210254?hash=item33f0148b0e%3Ag%3AAqAAAOSwNSxVAfxj&_sacat=0&_nkw=m203+quadrant+sight&_from=R40&rt=nc |
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Posted: 7/24/2018 10:45:38 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
So how much do those projectiles cost to make? Not including the printer. Any online shops that will print stuff for you if you get them the file? https://www.xometry.com/prototype-manufacturing?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=3D%2520Printing%2520Services%2520(Exact)&utm_term=3d%2520printing%2520prototyping&utm_content=3D%2520Printing%2520-%2520Prototypes I wonder how feasible it is to have some models printed out in hard plastic and then have a chinese supplier mold copies of them in bulk plastic? It’s likely doable, but to make the fins cheap enough to sell you’d likely have to order 87 bazillion of them (large cash outlay), then take the risk of eating them if you couldn’t sell them all. Take this Bud Light 16oz bottle for example: It’s below bore size for the can launcher (appr. 66mm)  Attached File Attached FilePrint out a bore sized cup for the base of the bottle that has spiral fins underneath it. It could be a press fit. Now also make an obturator ring for the top of the bottle’s cylinder. Send the printed parts (after some testing) off to china and have them molded in bulk out of tough (non-brittle), cheap, plastic. You could possibly have slip on kits for cheap in bulk. Then after firing (the bottle is toast on impact), just pull your parts off and recycle them on the next bottle for as long as they remain serviceable. Buy ‘em by the dozen, and shoot all day (or until the bottles run out). |
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Posted: 7/24/2018 10:50:51 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You guys are the debil. I want fin kits so bad.lol I wonder how feasible it is to have some models printed out in hard plastic and then have a chinese supplier mold copies of them in bulk plastic? It's likely doable, but to make the fins cheap enough to sell you'd likely have to order 87 bazillion of them (large cash outlay), then take the risk of eating them if you couldn't sell them all. Take this Bud Light 16oz bottle for example: It's below bore size for the can launcher (appr. 66mm) https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/415CF42C-E7E7-48CB-ABCE-B1242D927A8F-618496.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/BDA97622-D683-4A7E-A6B3-1FDE65782561-618498.JPG Print out a bore sized cup for the base of the bottle that has spiral fins underneath it. It could be a press fit. Now also make an obturator ring for the top of the bottle's cylinder. Send the printed parts (after some testing) off to china and have them molded in bulk out of tough (non-brittle), cheap, plastic. You could possibly have slip on kits for cheap in bulk. Then after firing (the bottle is toast on impact), just pull your parts off and recycle them on the next bottle for as long as they remain serviceable. Buy 'em by the dozen, and shoot all day (or until the bottles run out).
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Posted: 7/24/2018 10:59:26 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You can 3D print molds and do Lost PLA aluminum casting as well. You could actually use the shrapnel from old cans, melt it down and use it to make fins for new projectiles. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: You guys are the debil. I want fin kits so bad.lol I wonder how feasible it is to have some models printed out in hard plastic and then have a chinese supplier mold copies of them in bulk plastic? It's likely doable, but to make the fins cheap enough to sell you'd likely have to order 87 bazillion of them (large cash outlay), then take the risk of eating them if you couldn't sell them all. Take this Bud Light 16oz bottle for example: It's below bore size for the can launcher (appr. 66mm) https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/415CF42C-E7E7-48CB-ABCE-B1242D927A8F-618496.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/BDA97622-D683-4A7E-A6B3-1FDE65782561-618498.JPG Print out a bore sized cup for the base of the bottle that has spiral fins underneath it. It could be a press fit. Now also make an obturator ring for the top of the bottle's cylinder. Send the printed parts (after some testing) off to china and have them molded in bulk out of tough (non-brittle), cheap, plastic. You could possibly have slip on kits for cheap in bulk. Then after firing (the bottle is toast on impact), just pull your parts off and recycle them on the next bottle for as long as they remain serviceable. Buy 'em by the dozen, and shoot all day (or until the bottles run out).  ) pretty well.
We’ll recast the aluminum for critical warhead parts later. 
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Posted: 7/25/2018 12:04:09 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Other projectiles I found. https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/d6/4e/fa/ce/48/463003b1b0cce86b87fa5fff2fc894d6_preview_featured.jpg https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/c4/ed/38/d7/cd/73a769c21c14c386d120150c0b07dce7_preview_featured.jpg https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/29/0a/eb/fd/09/1c09d4e9143718032a03811d13ac415e_preview_featured.jpg https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/78/f1/b2/61/14/d1d11aa3d32893871d6528ac07005cf9_preview_featured.jpg https://thingiverse-rerender-new.s3.amazonaws.com/renders/34/2f/b0/f5/1b/Morter_gap_5_res_10_preview_featured.jpg https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/c7/f5/53/07/7e/Spud_preview_featured.jpg -A.L. |
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Posted: 7/25/2018 11:30:27 AM EDT
[#19]
For anyone interested in a cheap side charger option. Buy the BCG, get the upper FREE.
http://www.primaryarms.com/BCA-BCG-15-SC For just under $120 shipped, I ordered. Seems I remember a few in this thread that had or were trying the same set up... EDIT: DEALS DEAD, NO MORE FREE UPPERS 
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Posted: 7/25/2018 11:59:38 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For anyone interested in a cheap side charger option. Buy the BCG, get the upper FREE. http://www.primaryarms.com/BCA-BCG-15-SC For just under $120 shipped, I ordered. Seems I remember a few in this thread that had or were trying the same set up... I lack self-control.
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Posted: 7/25/2018 1:01:45 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For anyone interested in a cheap side charger option. Buy the BCG, get the upper FREE. http://www.primaryarms.com/BCA-BCG-15-SC For just under $120 shipped, I ordered. Seems I remember a few in this thread that had or were trying the same set up... I'll stick with a normal charging handle for now |
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Posted: 7/25/2018 1:07:40 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not great reviews at PA though I'll stick with a normal charging handle for now |
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Posted: 7/25/2018 1:25:00 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not great reviews at PA though I'll stick with a normal charging handle for now I'm using the BCA side charging upper/bolt on my F5 can cannon right now. The bolt handle has loosened up, but some blue loctite has fixed that. Overall I'm liking the side charging setup better than the normal charging handle. |
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Posted: 7/25/2018 1:28:01 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For anyone interested in a cheap side charger option. Buy the BCG, get the upper FREE. http://www.primaryarms.com/BCA-BCG-15-SC For just under $120 shipped, I ordered. Seems I remember a few in this thread that had or were trying the same set up... . Now I will go forward with my plan to mount a legitimate buffer tube and stock indexed 180º for proper sight alignment.The only part of this BCG that is really all that important from a function standpoint is the bolt itself. So long as it doesn't shear off the lugs and explode, it should work fine. Side note: It's probably possible to drill a small hole and put a gas tube into the receiver, but I think it would take something dramatically smaller in diameter as to not blow all the pressure into the receiver as it unlocks. I really don't mind it being a straight pull bolt action though. |
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Posted: 7/25/2018 1:37:54 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Holy shit. I fent. I spend more that that at dinner most nights... . Now I will go forward with my plan to mount a legitimate buffer tube and stock indexed 180 for proper sight alignment.The only part of this BCG that is really all that important from a function standpoint is the bolt itself. So long as it doesn't shear off the lugs and explode, it should work fine. Side note: It's probably possible to drill a small hole and put a gas tube into the receiver, but I think it would take something dramatically smaller in diameter as to not blow all the pressure into the receiver as it unlocks. I really don't mind it being a straight pull bolt action though. |
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Posted: 7/25/2018 3:03:57 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Interesting. You could put a few inches of survey tape into the can, leave the remainder hanging free. It would be embedded in the ice after freezing. The rounded can bottom would be the nose of the projectile, with the survey tape sitting under it in the can. When fired the tape would unfurl and act as a stabilizer in flight. |
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Posted: 7/25/2018 3:14:56 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For anyone interested in a cheap side charger option. Buy the BCG, get the upper FREE. http://www.primaryarms.com/BCA-BCG-15-SC For just under $120 shipped, I ordered. Seems I remember a few in this thread that had or were trying the same set up... I wonder if they price match. |
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Posted: 7/25/2018 3:18:16 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I did not want to be picking up survey tape after the ice melts. I am going for easy clean up projectiles. |
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Posted: 7/25/2018 3:46:13 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
May I ask why? Are you trying to make it extract the fired blank and chamber a fresh blank using gas pressure? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: Holy shit. I fent. I spend more that that at dinner most nights... . Now I will go forward with my plan to mount a legitimate buffer tube and stock indexed 180 for proper sight alignment.The only part of this BCG that is really all that important from a function standpoint is the bolt itself. So long as it doesn't shear off the lugs and explode, it should work fine. Side note: It's probably possible to drill a small hole and put a gas tube into the receiver, but I think it would take something dramatically smaller in diameter as to not blow all the pressure into the receiver as it unlocks. I really don't mind it being a straight pull bolt action though. |
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Posted: 7/25/2018 4:07:04 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For anyone interested in a cheap side charger option. Buy the BCG, get the upper FREE. http://www.primaryarms.com/BCA-BCG-15-SC For just under $120 shipped, I ordered. Seems I remember a few in this thread that had or were trying the same set up... 
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Posted: 7/25/2018 4:07:59 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm not seeing where the upper is free. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
For anyone interested in a cheap side charger option. Buy the BCG, get the upper FREE. http://www.primaryarms.com/BCA-BCG-15-SC For just under $120 shipped, I ordered. Seems I remember a few in this thread that had or were trying the same set up... |
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Posted: 7/25/2018 5:03:11 PM EDT
[#32]
Couldn't get the BCA BCG and upper at PA to add to my cart on multiple devices so I tried calling. Guy told me that the upper was out of stock and hung up on me.
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Posted: 7/25/2018 5:08:00 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Couldn't get the BCA BCG and upper at PA to add to my cart on multiple devices so I tried calling. Guy told me that the upper was out of stock and hung up on me. 
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Posted: 7/25/2018 5:15:29 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Couldn't get the BCA BCG and upper at PA to add to my cart on multiple devices so I tried calling. Guy told me that the upper was out of stock and hung up on me. I placed my order just before posting the deal, its already shipped. |
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Posted: 7/25/2018 5:55:54 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Holly shit! that's FUCKED up. I have always heard PA had stellar customer service, never had a need myself... I placed my order just before posting the deal, its already shipped. The SKU for the bundle is different than for the BCG or Upper separately. The bundle link didn't load properly in either Chrome or Internet Explorer. But I do have the email deal offer. I ordered last Thursday, still in transit. When I called to price match, the girl was a bit confused because the deal wasn't loading on her end either. That bundle is a smoking deal for a fun project like this. It's $60 less than I paid for the two separately. |
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Posted: 7/25/2018 6:41:08 PM EDT
[#36]
I had it in my cart but it's now out of stock/not avail...
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Posted: 7/25/2018 6:46:49 PM EDT
[#37]
I linked what I purchased, and, made sure it linked right once I posted it. What ever went wrong, did so later on.
in my original link, the free upper was listed and you would have to UN-check the box for the free upper to not get the deal. I don't even see a combo offered now. The BCG is still in stock, the upper is not.... |
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Posted: 7/25/2018 7:08:31 PM EDT
[#38]
That same bolt was 89.00 and the upper was 74.99 before the special 109.00/ both as I had them in my cart a few days ago.
Today's deal was legit, they are just out of uppers so it's now just 109 for the bolt alone... It would be nice if you could still order the bolt for 109.xx and still get the upper for free on back order. Oh well, ya gotta be quick... |
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Posted: 7/25/2018 8:05:07 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Tubing was 2.75" OD SS 304 tube (I bought 6' from Colombia River Mandrel Bending for ~$92 shipped - enough for three launchers). It also fits 10.5oz steel soup cans for launching home-brew smoke canisters. Here is some remote beverage supply action:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKGaBpofkv8Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: @qwezxc12 , you're giving me some bad ideas. I'm going to have to see if I have a suitably sized piece of tubing lying around now... Here is some remote beverage supply action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKGaBpofkv8Is this the tubing you bought? http://www.mandrelbends.com/tube-pipe-bar/round-tubing-16-gauge/304-stainless/2-75-od-16-gauge-304-stainless-straight-tube.html I’ve been looking at tubing trying to find something just like that in a little heavier wall thickness with the same bore diameter. 16 gauge is obviously perfect for normal use, but (since I’m not an engineer) I’d maybe like to find a thicker tube for use in constructing a “soda mortar” using handloaded blanks of M195 Grenade strength or thereabouts. 16ga. might be fine, but launching a 16oz (or heavier) projectile with 26 grains of red dot would make me nervous. Maybe someone with some engineering can comment.
If people think 16ga. would be ok, then I’d get a 3’ length and try finding someone to weld it up for me. I could always fire it remotely for a while (lanyard) to test it’s integrity with some heavy loads. Edit: fix smiley and add below link and screen pic- This place has 2 7/8” stainless tubing (2.875”) with a .120” wall thickness. That’d come out to a 2.635” bore though. A little too loose I think... https://stainlessandalloy.com/stainless-steel-seamless-tube/  Attached File |
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Posted: 7/25/2018 10:40:02 PM EDT
[#40]
I called the Atlantic Blanks place on my lunch today.
Turns out they are about 30 minutes from me but do not have a retail store. I spoke to the owner and he had a very unfavorable opinion of Xproducts but wouldn't say why. Talked to him about the rounds and this thread. He said that he tested over 400 loads in the Canon when it came out in a few month time. The weak point was the can. He even had a load that would put you back 3 steps every shot but the can would only go 2 feet. After telling him about this thread he gave me a coupon code for their can launching blanks. 15% off code was ARF and would be good once for each person. He said he would follow this thread. Never thought I would blow my entire lunch talking to some dude about blanks but it was interesting. |
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Posted: 7/26/2018 12:10:37 AM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I called the Atlantic Blanks place on my lunch today. Turns out they are about 30 minutes from me but do not have a retail store. I spoke to the owner and he had a very unfavorable opinion of Xproducts but wouldn't say why. Talked to him about the rounds and this thread. He said that he tested over 400 loads in the Canon when it came out in a few month time. The weak point was the can. He even had a load that would put you back 3 steps every shot but the can would only go 2 feet. After telling him about this thread he gave me a coupon code for their can launching blanks. 15% off code was ARF and would be good once for each person. He said he would follow this thread. Never thought I would blow my entire lunch talking to some dude about blanks but it was interesting.
I have M200 blanks, but I want to try some heavier blank loads with thicker beer cans, and also some pop cans with cardboard base sabot/wads. I’m tempted to just skip to the M195 and see what happens, —- so long as the can launcher wouldn’t blow itself up. I’m guessing the launcher itself can withstand the M195 Grenade cartridge just fine, and that it’s only the fact that the cans fail and the recoil is very high? I’m intending to head this way with a “mortar” eventually anyway, so it’d be cool to buy some M195 cartridges and see what’d happen so long as it would be safe to fire (launcher not fail) and I would place the butt on a sandbag or the ground. |
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Posted: 7/26/2018 12:20:08 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
15% off code was ARF and would be good once for each person. He said he would follow this thread. 
If they're monitoring this thread, hopefully they can chime in about the differences between the M200 Duplicate blanks and the specifically labeled Can Launching Blanks. |
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Posted: 7/26/2018 2:52:22 AM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted: You guys are the debil. I want fin kits so bad.lol I wonder how feasible it is to have some models printed out in hard plastic and then have a chinese supplier mold copies of them in bulk plastic? It’s likely doable, but to make the fins cheap enough to sell you’d likely have to order 87 bazillion of them (large cash outlay), then take the risk of eating them if you couldn’t sell them all. Take this Bud Light 16oz bottle for example: It’s below bore size for the can launcher (appr. 66mm) https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/415CF42C-E7E7-48CB-ABCE-B1242D927A8F-618496.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/BDA97622-D683-4A7E-A6B3-1FDE65782561-618498.JPG Print out a bore sized cup for the base of the bottle that has spiral fins underneath it. It could be a press fit. Now also make an obturator ring for the top of the bottle’s cylinder. Send the printed parts (after some testing) off to china and have them molded in bulk out of tough (non-brittle), cheap, plastic. You could possibly have slip on kits for cheap in bulk. Then after firing (the bottle is toast on impact), just pull your parts off and recycle them on the next bottle for as long as they remain serviceable. Buy ‘em by the dozen, and shoot all day (or until the bottles run out). Somewhere I have a 3d model to adapt aluminum bud bottles to reloadable fins for a 60mm mortar |
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Posted: 7/26/2018 4:08:14 AM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I think your trying to launch the bud bottle the wrong way. Make a thread adapter with fins. Narrow end down the tube first. Just need a narrow ring for the obturator...aluminum bottle cozy cut up. Launch it like a mortar round. big end out first it's more stable in flight that way. Somewhere I have a 3d model to adapt aluminum bud bottles to reloadable fins for a 60mm mortar Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: You guys are the debil. I want fin kits so bad.lol I wonder how feasible it is to have some models printed out in hard plastic and then have a chinese supplier mold copies of them in bulk plastic? It’s likely doable, but to make the fins cheap enough to sell you’d likely have to order 87 bazillion of them (large cash outlay), then take the risk of eating them if you couldn’t sell them all. Take this Bud Light 16oz bottle for example: It’s below bore size for the can launcher (appr. 66mm) https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/415CF42C-E7E7-48CB-ABCE-B1242D927A8F-618496.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/BDA97622-D683-4A7E-A6B3-1FDE65782561-618498.JPG Print out a bore sized cup for the base of the bottle that has spiral fins underneath it. It could be a press fit. Now also make an obturator ring for the top of the bottle’s cylinder. Send the printed parts (after some testing) off to china and have them molded in bulk out of tough (non-brittle), cheap, plastic. You could possibly have slip on kits for cheap in bulk. Then after firing (the bottle is toast on impact), just pull your parts off and recycle them on the next bottle for as long as they remain serviceable. Buy ‘em by the dozen, and shoot all day (or until the bottles run out). Somewhere I have a 3d model to adapt aluminum bud bottles to reloadable fins for a 60mm mortar I even took a screen capture of it to remind myself.
 Attached FileI’d glady shoot bud bottles facing either direction if I can just get the right parts (semi-reasonably priced) to put them together. I’ve been on Alibaba for the last 3 hours trying to find something that could be exploited. Haven’t found anything that’s a slam dunk yet. I‘ve even thought about epoxying some fins to carbon fiber tube. Maybe those could last a while too, but might be too much cost and effort compared to something else I haven’t found yet. |
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Posted: 7/26/2018 8:03:36 AM EDT
[#45]
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I called the Atlantic Blanks place on my lunch today. Turns out they are about 30 minutes from me but do not have a retail store. I spoke to the owner and he had a very unfavorable opinion of Xproducts but wouldn't say why. Talked to him about the rounds and this thread. He said that he tested over 400 loads in the Canon when it came out in a few month time. The weak point was the can. He even had a load that would put you back 3 steps every shot but the can would only go 2 feet. After telling him about this thread he gave me a coupon code for their can launching blanks. 15% off code was ARF and would be good once for each person. He said he would follow this thread. Never thought I would blow my entire lunch talking to some dude about blanks but it was interesting. |
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Posted: 7/26/2018 10:13:04 AM EDT
[#47]
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@qwezxc12 Is this the tubing you bought? http://www.mandrelbends.com/tube-pipe-bar/round-tubing-16-gauge/304-stainless/2-75-od-16-gauge-304-stainless-straight-tube.html I’ve been looking at tubing trying to find something just like that in a little heavier wall thickness with the same bore diameter. 16 gauge is obviously perfect for normal use, but (since I’m not an engineer) I’d maybe like to find a thicker tube for use in constructing a “soda mortar” using handloaded blanks of M195 Grenade strength or thereabouts. 16ga. might be fine, but launching a 16oz (or heavier) projectile with 26 grains of red dot would make me nervous. Maybe someone with some engineering can comment.
If people think 16ga. would be ok, then I’d get a 3’ length and try finding someone to weld it up for me. I could always fire it remotely for a while (lanyard) to test it’s integrity with some heavy loads. Edit: fix smiley and add below link and screen pic- This place has 2 7/8” stainless tubing (2.875”) with a .120” wall thickness. That’d come out to a 2.635” bore though. A little too loose I think... https://stainlessandalloy.com/stainless-steel-seamless-tube/ https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/1DCF8BFF-201F-4886-9832-78A828BE9F93-619407.JPG Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted: @qwezxc12 , you're giving me some bad ideas. I'm going to have to see if I have a suitably sized piece of tubing lying around now... Here is some remote beverage supply action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKGaBpofkv8Is this the tubing you bought? http://www.mandrelbends.com/tube-pipe-bar/round-tubing-16-gauge/304-stainless/2-75-od-16-gauge-304-stainless-straight-tube.html I’ve been looking at tubing trying to find something just like that in a little heavier wall thickness with the same bore diameter. 16 gauge is obviously perfect for normal use, but (since I’m not an engineer) I’d maybe like to find a thicker tube for use in constructing a “soda mortar” using handloaded blanks of M195 Grenade strength or thereabouts. 16ga. might be fine, but launching a 16oz (or heavier) projectile with 26 grains of red dot would make me nervous. Maybe someone with some engineering can comment.
If people think 16ga. would be ok, then I’d get a 3’ length and try finding someone to weld it up for me. I could always fire it remotely for a while (lanyard) to test it’s integrity with some heavy loads. Edit: fix smiley and add below link and screen pic- This place has 2 7/8” stainless tubing (2.875”) with a .120” wall thickness. That’d come out to a 2.635” bore though. A little too loose I think... https://stainlessandalloy.com/stainless-steel-seamless-tube/ https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/1DCF8BFF-201F-4886-9832-78A828BE9F93-619407.JPG My suggestion for your can mortar would be a high pressure/low pressure system since you have to get it welded anyway. Make a section at the bottom (maybe 3" long) that is thick walled and has the chamber and the ported tube for the blank. This can be the same OD as the 16ga tube, but with a smaller ID. Make a cap/plug between the high pressure and low pressure sections and port the crap out of it. Make a stand off so the can does not sit on the ported plate, but 1" to 2" above it. This gives you a thick section to take the pressure of the blank, a section for the gas to expand and a baffle to slow it enough that it wont burst the can (hopefully!). Just a spitball idea. You might be better off with a really thick wall (1/2" or so) so that it would reduce the volume in the first chamber and provide more gas volume for lifting the can. |
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Posted: 7/26/2018 6:22:18 PM EDT
[#48]
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Posted: 7/26/2018 6:54:40 PM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
<--- Some manner of engineer My suggestion for your can mortar would be a high pressure/low pressure system since you have to get it welded anyway. Make a section at the bottom (maybe 3" long) that is thick walled and has the chamber and the ported tube for the blank. This can be the same OD as the 16ga tube, but with a smaller ID. Make a cap/plug between the high pressure and low pressure sections and port the crap out of it. Make a stand off so the can does not sit on the ported plate, but 1" to 2" above it. This gives you a thick section to take the pressure of the blank, a section for the gas to expand and a baffle to slow it enough that it wont burst the can (hopefully!). Just a spitball idea. You might be better off with a really thick wall (1/2" or so) so that it would reduce the volume in the first chamber and provide more gas volume for lifting the can. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted: @qwezxc12 , you're giving me some bad ideas. I'm going to have to see if I have a suitably sized piece of tubing lying around now... Here is some remote beverage supply action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EKGaBpofkv8Is this the tubing you bought? http://www.mandrelbends.com/tube-pipe-bar/round-tubing-16-gauge/304-stainless/2-75-od-16-gauge-304-stainless-straight-tube.html I’ve been looking at tubing trying to find something just like that in a little heavier wall thickness with the same bore diameter. 16 gauge is obviously perfect for normal use, but (since I’m not an engineer) I’d maybe like to find a thicker tube for use in constructing a “soda mortar” using handloaded blanks of M195 Grenade strength or thereabouts. 16ga. might be fine, but launching a 16oz (or heavier) projectile with 26 grains of red dot would make me nervous. Maybe someone with some engineering can comment.
If people think 16ga. would be ok, then I’d get a 3’ length and try finding someone to weld it up for me. I could always fire it remotely for a while (lanyard) to test it’s integrity with some heavy loads. Edit: fix smiley and add below link and screen pic- This place has 2 7/8” stainless tubing (2.875”) with a .120” wall thickness. That’d come out to a 2.635” bore though. A little too loose I think... https://stainlessandalloy.com/stainless-steel-seamless-tube/ https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/53338/1DCF8BFF-201F-4886-9832-78A828BE9F93-619407.JPG My suggestion for your can mortar would be a high pressure/low pressure system since you have to get it welded anyway. Make a section at the bottom (maybe 3" long) that is thick walled and has the chamber and the ported tube for the blank. This can be the same OD as the 16ga tube, but with a smaller ID. Make a cap/plug between the high pressure and low pressure sections and port the crap out of it. Make a stand off so the can does not sit on the ported plate, but 1" to 2" above it. This gives you a thick section to take the pressure of the blank, a section for the gas to expand and a baffle to slow it enough that it wont burst the can (hopefully!). Just a spitball idea. You might be better off with a really thick wall (1/2" or so) so that it would reduce the volume in the first chamber and provide more gas volume for lifting the can. I got a quote for the heavier walled stuff. I’d be okay with the $225 price, but the $60 they tack on to simply mail out a 3’ tube is kind of insulting.  
 Attached FileI could probably tighten the bore up with chrome. I don’t know how much that costs though. |
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Posted: 7/26/2018 6:57:02 PM EDT
[#50]
I have 3 pretty crazy ideas half assembled on my work bench. For now, here's one. My DIY recoil reducing stock for side charging upper. I cut the buffer tube to allow for more travel. I'll probably grind it cleaner later. I just wanted to test proof of concept.
 Attached File Attached File |
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