‘16 CCSB 4x4 - just turned 70k and the cab/body mounts are falling apart, as sounds typical on this gen.

Anyone replaced before? Truck has always been in TX so no rust, but factory thread lock on the body bolts is supposed to be nuclear grade, so thinking of picking up an induction heater to try to make it a bit more tolerable.

S&B make a silicone set, sounds good in theory. Anyone have experience with them? Mostly want to preserve the factory ride, so don’t want to pay more for something that will ride worse.

I’m ok with going back with the Ford ones, but if they haven’t improved the urethane and they do the same thing again that’d be frustrating.

I have only ever replaced with stock parts no I have no input on the aftermarket ones. I can say definitely use heat before you try to remove them so hopefully you don’t spin the cage nuts loose. I have heated the bolt head with oxy acetylene torch.

I have taken quite a few cab to frame mounting bolts out of all kinds of trucks in a previous job.

Buy, beg, or borrow a 3/4 inch socket of the appropriate size to fit the bolts. Than use the longest breaker bar you can to turn it. It's not worth the bother of trying it with a 3/8 drive.

Do not even waste your time trying it with an airgun or electric impact or drill of any size - the rubber mount will absorb all the impact and the bolt won't budge at all.

You'll need heavy duty grunt to get it out.

Inspect the bolts before you try it - if they are heavily rusted wirebrush the snot out of them and than (if you can) soak them in fresh evaporust (fill a plastic container cut to fit around the bolt to hold the stuff on the bolt) for about 8-24 hours. Than an actual penetrating lube like PB blaster.

Be careful if you use the torch trick (heat it than shoot it with penetrating oil and let the temp change suck the oil in), you don't want to set whats left of the rubber buffers on fire.

Thanks yall.

I was involved in a handful of body lift adventures back in the day, so the actual work isn’t new and I definitely know the fun of having to dig down through the interior to get to a caged or spot welded nut.

The front nose ones and then the ones right under the front of the cab seem to be the ones that give the most headaches from the rest of what I’ve seen online/youtube. The #1 location ones being a pain make sense being that they’re the most exposed on the nut side.

This is one of those jobs where an induction heater shines.