2024 Subaru WRX (Page 5 of 22)
|
Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: WRXs and others have two ventilation systems https://www.reddit.com/r/2022wrx/comments/vwy5zm/pcv_ccv_explained_on_vb_wrx/ https://www.clubwrx.net/threads/2022-need-catch-can.134618593/ Both have some information on them So there's also EGR, exhaust gas recirculation Aerosolized oil and soot come in from the EGR system iirc - and any detergents in the oil that can help prevent it from building up carbon are a good thing...I wouldn't expect it to be a panacea but anything is better than nothing long term. I ordered Red Stuff brake pads for the front. I'm curious to see how those are going to feel. I'll keep the OEM pads as a backup. |
|
Originally Posted By Emoto: The video shows the path for FI using throttle bodies. Correct me if I am wrong, but Our VB engines are Direct Injection, aren't they? So, no throttle body for oil vapor to be sent across the valve head along with fuel to keep the valve head free of deposits. It is my ignorance that makes me ask these questions. Where does the VB PCV send its output? To the air filter? Cylinder head? I am finding conflicting info online. If you are claiming that oil mist exiting the crankcase via the PCV valve reaches the intake valves, what is the path that it takes? Or, am I completely misunderstanding the whole thing? There's no filter on either, so that's why people install catch cans and AO separators. It's to trap some of that oil and water vapor before it can get into the manifold. It helps, but I don't think it completely prevents the buildup around the valves. That's a downside product of the design of the engine. |
|
Originally Posted By TripleC: This guy is a tuner and put an upgraded turbo on. Check those Dyno numbers.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1oBOsb4rlo AWD FTW. 
|
Proud and grateful Tennessee Squire
flgfish: "Low mileage cars piss me off. You saving your girlfriend for the next guy? Drive the car and enjoy it. A 911 is damn near bulletproof."
flgfish: "Low mileage cars piss me off. You saving your girlfriend for the next guy? Drive the car and enjoy it. A 911 is damn near bulletproof."
|
Originally Posted By Butternut: Man's that's crazy cool. AWD FTW. Originally Posted By Butternut: Originally Posted By TripleC: This guy is a tuner and put an upgraded turbo on. Check those Dyno numbers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1oBOsb4rlo AWD FTW. Stock fuel system too. I bet that thing rips. |
when you die, on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness
|
Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: If you look in front of the intercooler on top of the engine, you can see where the PCV hose goes into the manifold. It bypasses the intercooler. I think the CVV hose vents into the intake before the intercooler, although it's not as much as the PCV side. There's no filter on either, so that's why people install catch cans and AO separators. It's to trap some of that oil and water vapor before it can get into the manifold. It helps, but I don't think it completely prevents the buildup around the valves. That's a downside product of the design of the engine. I'll take a look. But if using this new Valvoline oil, wouldn't it be good if mist from that went into the intake manifold (and on to the intake valves)? |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
|
Originally Posted By Emoto: I'll take a look. But if using this new Valvoline oil, wouldn't it be good if mist from that went into the intake manifold (and on to the intake valves)? That is the "theory" that this new oil might eliminate the need for a catch can. Too new to know at this point. It would be a very small amount in thousands of miles.  Do Catch Cans REALLY Work? |
when you die, on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness
|
Originally Posted By TripleC: That is the "theory" that this new oil might eliminate the need for a catch can. Too new to know at this point. It would be a very small amount in thousands of miles. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWLYRvBhJgQ |
|
Originally Posted By TripleC: That is the "theory" that this new oil might eliminate the need for a catch can. Too new to know at this point. It would be a very small amount in thousands of miles. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWLYRvBhJgQIt will be interesting if anyone comes along who can indicate a benefit. If I were playing around with higher boost pressures or anything else that might increase crankcase pressures or temperatures, I might consider a catch can, but I don't see the need for a stock WRX. But, that's just me. Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Wow, his catch can caught a lot of fluid, and in only 3k miles. I'd say, at least for his vehicle, the catch can was worth it. I wouldn't want that gross mess going through my manifold. It makes me feel a lot better about having installed one. That was a VW Tiguan(sp?). That engine is a completely different design from ours, so those results, although interesting, are not indicative of what we might expect. We also know nothing of the environmental conditions that VW drove through or the condition of its air intake or anything else. |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
|
Originally Posted By TripleC: Guy runs a camera into an 200k mine engine after using that oil. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1_5nfwSQ0_g@Foxtrot08 Any thoughts about this new oil? |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
|
Originally Posted By Emoto: @Foxtrot08 Any thoughts about this new oil? Originally Posted By Emoto: Originally Posted By TripleC: Guy runs a camera into an 200k mine engine after using that oil. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1_5nfwSQ0_g@Foxtrot08 Any thoughts about this new oil? It’s Valvoline marketing. They know you can’t prove it works better than anyone else’s full synthetic. And they can’t prove that it actually works if you maintain your car. It’s all their marketing, is just like this. Generic enough that it says something that means nothing. “Restore and protect” - okay… so, assuming you owned a car since new. And ran a normal name brand / oem brand full synthetic, for normal oil change intervals - what’s there to restore? What’s there to protect better? It’s bullshit. I talked to people at Valvoline about it. It’s a Walmart product. (I.e. only products sold to the DIY market.) my speculation is it’s just GF7, which is the next step in automotive engine oil approvals, that are already on the market. But the licensing is due in March - May. But there’s 0 way to prove it works, or doesn’t work. Because you would need to do side by side fleet testing, with another full synthetic brand. And have equally carbon ed/varnished/slushed up engines. And then go through your ~20,000-30,000 mile cycle, without anything else breaking. Good luck. It’s not going to hurt anything. But oil marketing is the worse marketing. Don’t fall for it. Run your favorite brand full synthetic at regular oil change intervals. And your car will last until something mechanical breaks / wears out, that’s not an oil related issue. Or, until it falls apart physically. 
|
Direction, not intention, determines destination.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
|
Originally Posted By Emoto: It will be interesting if anyone comes along who can indicate a benefit. If I were playing around with higher boost pressures or anything else that might increase crankcase pressures or temperatures, I might consider a catch can, but I don't see the need for a stock WRX. But, that's just me. That was a VW Tiguan(sp?). That engine is a completely different design from ours, so those results, although interesting, are not indicative of what we might expect. We also know nothing of the environmental conditions that VW drove through or the condition of its air intake or anything else.  I really don't know what I will find, if anything. The OEM hose didn't seem to have much, if any, oil in it. I checked the inside of the intake and it seemed dry. So my catch can might not catch much. If it doesn't, then you guys will know it's an option rather than a necessity. Of course, you all are in colder climates, so that might color your decision. But, for now, we'll see how my can does. |
|
Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: It's Valvoline marketing. They know you can't prove it works better than anyone else's full synthetic. And they can't prove that it actually works if you maintain your car. It's all their marketing, is just like this. Generic enough that it says something that means nothing. "Restore and protect" - okay so, assuming you owned a car since new. And ran a normal name brand / oem brand full synthetic, for normal oil change intervals - what's there to restore? What's there to protect better? It's bullshit. I talked to people at Valvoline about it. It's a Walmart product. (I.e. only products sold to the DIY market.) my speculation is it's just GF7, which is the next step in automotive engine oil approvals, that are already on the market. But the licensing is due in March - May. But there's 0 way to prove it works, or doesn't work. Because you would need to do side by side fleet testing, with another full synthetic brand. And have equally carbon ed/varnished/slushed up engines. And then go through your ~20,000-30,000 mile cycle, without anything else breaking. Good luck. It's not going to hurt anything. But oil marketing is the worse marketing. Don't fall for it. Run your favorite brand full synthetic at regular oil change intervals. And your car will last until something mechanical breaks / wears out, that's not an oil related issue. Or, until it falls apart physically. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/SHW1WtX-3056396.jpg The oil man has spoken! I was skeptical as well but I have seen many "before and after" that looks like the oil is doing some cleaning. It meets GF-6 (that is what our engines require) so it's not something that will do any harm. I'll get an oil analysis done after the next change. @Foxtrot08 What is different about GF7? I looked it up and it says it's coming out in March 2025. |
when you die, on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness
|
Originally Posted By TripleC: The oil man has spoken! I was skeptical as well but I have seen many "before and after" that looks like the oil is doing some cleaning. It meets GF-6 (that is what our engines require) so it's not something that will do any harm. I'll get an oil analysis done after the next change. @Foxtrot08 What is different about GF7? I looked it up and it says it's coming out in March 2025. @Foxtrot08 Thanks for your input. The world of oil can be a confusing one and we're fortunate to have our own Sherpa to give us insight into what's good and what's not so good. |
|
GF-7 info Attached File https://www.oronite.com/products-technology/passengercarmotoroils/ilsac-gf-7-specification.html  |
when you die, on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness
|
Originally Posted By TripleC: The oil man has spoken! I was skeptical as well but I have seen many "before and after" that looks like the oil is doing some cleaning. It meets GF-6 (that is what our engines require) so it's not something that will do any harm. I'll get an oil analysis done after the next change. @Foxtrot08 What is different about GF7? I looked it up and it says it's coming out in March 2025. Originally Posted By TripleC: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: It's Valvoline marketing. They know you can't prove it works better than anyone else's full synthetic. And they can't prove that it actually works if you maintain your car. It's all their marketing, is just like this. Generic enough that it says something that means nothing. "Restore and protect" - okay so, assuming you owned a car since new. And ran a normal name brand / oem brand full synthetic, for normal oil change intervals - what's there to restore? What's there to protect better? It's bullshit. I talked to people at Valvoline about it. It's a Walmart product. (I.e. only products sold to the DIY market.) my speculation is it's just GF7, which is the next step in automotive engine oil approvals, that are already on the market. But the licensing is due in March - May. But there's 0 way to prove it works, or doesn't work. Because you would need to do side by side fleet testing, with another full synthetic brand. And have equally carbon ed/varnished/slushed up engines. And then go through your ~20,000-30,000 mile cycle, without anything else breaking. Good luck. It's not going to hurt anything. But oil marketing is the worse marketing. Don't fall for it. Run your favorite brand full synthetic at regular oil change intervals. And your car will last until something mechanical breaks / wears out, that's not an oil related issue. Or, until it falls apart physically. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/148484/SHW1WtX-3056396.jpg The oil man has spoken! I was skeptical as well but I have seen many "before and after" that looks like the oil is doing some cleaning. It meets GF-6 (that is what our engines require) so it's not something that will do any harm. I'll get an oil analysis done after the next change. @Foxtrot08 What is different about GF7? I looked it up and it says it's coming out in March 2025. GF7 is a pretty big evolution in oil specs. One of the big problems with GF6, was it didn’t really update the tests. So they were still using 20-30 year old engine tests for the certification. GF7 updates a lot of these tests to newer engines and newer standards. While also providing the frame work for lower viscosity oil specs, like 0w16, 0w8, etc. It’s really hard to design an oil that you have to bench test on 30 year old engines that don’t really exist in the wild anymore. It got the point where running these tests are hard because they can’t get spare oem parts anymore. And if you can’t get oem parts, then you’re not doing the test right. So updating the tests, updating the test standards led to a pretty different formulation. From GF5 to GF6, that was just more of general update of frame work. GF6 to GF7 is a big evolutionary jump. And GF8 isn’t super far behind. We will probably see it before 2030. Just to continue to catch tests up with engines. So a complete ground up rebuild of additive packages led to a lot of updates. In my opinion, part of that is just being able to keep things cleaner. Oronite (Chevron additive company) has invested alot in designing oil cleaners. You see it on the industrial side with their Vartech product. It’s not a hard stretch that they took this idea and moved it into their PCEO and HDEO products. That includes their new 600 ADF product. Thus, sure. You run the new Valvoline RP for 30,000 miles or so. Yeah, it will probably clean up an engine that ran a cheap ass GF5-6 synthetic blend. But if you’re running a good oil… there’s nothing to clean. See previous post about marketing. But I generally feel like the GF7 update is large. And generally vastly needed. |
Direction, not intention, determines destination.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
|
Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: GF7 is a pretty big evolution in oil specs. One of the big problems with GF6, was it didn't really update the tests. So they were still using 20-30 year old engine tests for the certification. GF7 updates a lot of these tests to newer engines and newer standards. While also providing the frame work for lower viscosity oil specs, like 0w16, 0w8, etc. It's really hard to design an oil that you have to bench test on 30 year old engines that don't really exist in the wild anymore. It got the point where running these tests are hard because they can't get spare oem parts anymore. And if you can't get oem parts, then you're not doing the test right. So updating the tests, updating the test standards led to a pretty different formulation. From GF5 to GF6, that was just more of general update of frame work. GF6 to GF7 is a big evolutionary jump. And GF8 isn't super far behind. We will probably see it before 2030. Just to continue to catch tests up with engines. So a complete ground up rebuild of additive packages led to a lot of updates. In my opinion, part of that is just being able to keep things cleaner. Oronite (Chevron additive company) has invested alot in designing oil cleaners. You see it on the industrial side with their Vartech product. It's not a hard stretch that they took this idea and moved it into their PCEO and HDEO products. That includes their new 600 ADF product. Thus, sure. You run the new Valvoline RP for 30,000 miles or so. Yeah, it will probably clean up an engine that ran a cheap ass GF5-6 synthetic blend. But if you're running a good oil there's nothing to clean. See previous post about marketing. But I generally feel like the GF7 update is large. And generally vastly needed. |
|
Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Is there going to be something different about the GF-7 oils, like some radical, revolutionary jump forward in oil tech? Or is it just a certification thing? Modern synthetic oils seem to be pretty advanced these days. I guess they could invent an oil that doesn't shear down. I've heard that modern big rigs go 100k miles on an oil change. They just have a far more advanced filtration system that allows them to go that long between changes. I don't know if that's true, but wouldn't the oil shear long before then? Unless diesel oil doesn't shear? I know little about big rig oil, TBH. Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Originally Posted By Foxtrot08: GF7 is a pretty big evolution in oil specs. One of the big problems with GF6, was it didn't really update the tests. So they were still using 20-30 year old engine tests for the certification. GF7 updates a lot of these tests to newer engines and newer standards. While also providing the frame work for lower viscosity oil specs, like 0w16, 0w8, etc. It's really hard to design an oil that you have to bench test on 30 year old engines that don't really exist in the wild anymore. It got the point where running these tests are hard because they can't get spare oem parts anymore. And if you can't get oem parts, then you're not doing the test right. So updating the tests, updating the test standards led to a pretty different formulation. From GF5 to GF6, that was just more of general update of frame work. GF6 to GF7 is a big evolutionary jump. And GF8 isn't super far behind. We will probably see it before 2030. Just to continue to catch tests up with engines. So a complete ground up rebuild of additive packages led to a lot of updates. In my opinion, part of that is just being able to keep things cleaner. Oronite (Chevron additive company) has invested alot in designing oil cleaners. You see it on the industrial side with their Vartech product. It's not a hard stretch that they took this idea and moved it into their PCEO and HDEO products. That includes their new 600 ADF product. Thus, sure. You run the new Valvoline RP for 30,000 miles or so. Yeah, it will probably clean up an engine that ran a cheap ass GF5-6 synthetic blend. But if you're running a good oil there's nothing to clean. See previous post about marketing. But I generally feel like the GF7 update is large. And generally vastly needed. All multi viscosity oils will shear. The quality of polymers in the VI improver, the quality of base oils used, etc. determines how much and how fast it will shear. Diesel engine oils shear just as much. Think about the differences in oil generations like ammo components. Ammo in 2000, I remember shooting surplus radway green. It was dirty, Smokey, and horribly inaccurate out of my rifle. But, it shot. And I had fun. Ammo in the mid 2010s was cleaner, more consistent, more reliable, somewhat more accurate. Ammo today, with the best / newest powders, primers, bullets, etc. are faster, cleaner, better ballistics, more accurate, etc. Oil today will just be able to do more with the chemistry. It will keep your engine cleaner, longer. Have better cold flow. Have more shear stability. Etc. They just keep updating and changing lab testing, then matching it with real world results. That allows the additive manufacturers, to make a better product for everyone. Thus, why I think Valvoline RP, is just GF7. Probably with a slightly tweaked detergent package. |
Direction, not intention, determines destination.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
Integrity is the essence of everything successful.
|
I did some work on the WRX today and checked a few things. Letting you guys know what I found. I decided to go ahead and do a gear oil change for the transmission. The shifting was becoming really notchy. I know some guys change out their transmission oil pretty early. I'm at about 2,300 miles now so I figured it was a good time to get all of that break in oil out and some Motul in. I also planned to check on the Radium catch can I installed last week to see if there was anything in it. I also wanted to re-route the PCV hose so it didn't have such a kink in it. I removed the TMIC and got to work. I was able to route the PCV hose a little better. There's still a slight kink in it but it's not as bad as it was. It looks like it can flow easily which is what I was looking for. I removed the bottom can to check to see if I had anything. To my surprise, there was oil in it. It wasn't much, but enough to roll around in the bottom of the can. I really was expecting it to be dry. And that was just after one week. I kinda wish I had done the install sooner, although I don't think a lot of oil has had time to get into my manifold. I'd say if you're on the fence about it, I did find that I'm catching oil. And it's a lot more than I was expecting for such a short period of time. When I drained the factory transmission oil, it was a lot darker than I was expecting. And a couple of metal plumes were visible. The magnet on the drain plug had a good bit of metal on it as well. I was glad I decided to go ahead and get it done. I'm planning to do the rear axle tomorrow morning. I took the car for a short drive. The Motul really smooths the shifting noticeably. A lot of people have reported that although the transmission is supposed to take 3.5 quarts, a little less than 3 quarts get you to the F line. That was my experience as well. I put just under 3 quarts and that put me just above the F line. My guess is that it's 3.5 quarts completely dry. About a half a quart remains when you do a drain. I'll check the oil level again in a bit to make sure it's good. This is the transmission oil: 
|
|
Which Motul did you use? I don't know about our WRX transmission parts, but in some transmissions or differentials, new parts have some sort of black oxide coating that wears off from all of the contact areas during normal use. This causes the oil to become very dark. Again, I do not know if our transmission parts have that sort of finish, but if they do, that would explain it. EDIT: Another thought I had is that it would be cool to be able to track average RPM and average boost, to see if there is any correlation between RPM, boost, and catch can quantities. |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
|
Originally Posted By Emoto: Which Motul did you use? I don't know about our WRX transmission parts, but in some transmissions or differentials, new parts have some sort of black oxide coating that wears off from all of the contact areas during normal use. This causes the oil to become very dark. Again, I do not know if our transmission parts have that sort of finish, but if they do, that would explain it. EDIT: Another thought I had is that it would be cool to be able to track average RPM and average boost, to see if there is any correlation between RPM, boost, and catch can quantities. I know there is some correlation with all of those factors. I haven't really driven all that aggressively so I was expecting to see a dry can. I'd imagine I will have a half-cup or more by the time of the next oil change. I have to say, I'm happy I went ahead and installed it. Clearly, the PCV valve sends some nasty goop to the manifold. |
|
Originally Posted By Emoto: How hard is it to get to the manual transmission fluid drain? I use ramps for the engine oil but I don't know if that works for the transmission, which I think shares a common sump with the front diff, doesn't it? As for the rear pumpkin, the car is really low to the ground so sliding back there is another challenge. I'm not going to use ramps for the rear but I will jack up one side to give me a few more inches of clearance so I can get back there. I'm hoping it goes smoothly. There's a really good video of the entire procedure, front and back. The guy doesn't mention bolt torques which is disappointing. He just snugs them down good which will probably be fine. I found the values, though. It's around 50 ft/lbs for the front drain bolt and around 35 for the rear. He glosses over some parts of the process. But otherwise, it's a good video and gives you an idea of how to approach the task. WRX Gear Oil Change ETA: That quick-jack setup he's got is sweet. I was so jealous that I priced them after I saw the video. They're around $1,500 for the 2.5 ton model. There's a 3.5 ton model for around $1,800. That's some coin but, man, it looks like it really makes working under the car much easier. |
|
Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Even on ramps, it was a challenge. I can't use my creeper since the car is so low. I had to slide back under the car on cardboard. The drain plug for the transmission uses a weird Torx bolt, a 70 size. And it's pretty messy as it drains with lots of splashing. Getting to the dipstick on top isn't bad. You just need a long funnel. It took me longer because I had a couple of other things I wanted to do which required me to remove the TMIC. Plus, I kept dropping tools into the engine (grrrr) which meant I had to start removing items to get to where the tools dropped. So that slowed me down a bit. Overall, it wasn't all that bad and next time should be a lot quicker since I know what I'm doing. I see some shortcuts that will help. As for the rear pumpkin, the car is really low to the ground so sliding back there is another challenge. I'm not going to use ramps for the rear but I will jack up one side to give me a few more inches of clearance so I can get back there. I'm hoping it goes smoothly. There's a really good video of the entire procedure, front and back. The guy doesn't mention bolt torques which is disappointing. He just snugs them down good which will probably be fine. I found the values, though. It's around 50 ft/lbs for the front drain bolt and around 35 for the rear. He glosses over some parts of the process. But otherwise, it's a good video and gives you an idea of how to approach the task. WRX Gear Oil Change ETA: That quick-jack setup he's got is sweet. I was so jealous that I priced them after I saw the video. They're around $1,500 for the 2.5 ton model. There's a 3.5 ton model for around $1,800. That's some coin but, man, it looks like it really makes working under the car much easier. Yeah, those quick jack things are pretty cool, but very expensive. Thanks for the video link. I'll check it out. What I meant to ask is whether using ramps or jacking up the car would put the transmission drain at an angle that would be bad for getting all the old fluid out. I guess maybe watching the video will answer that question.  You might be saved some hassle grabbing dropped tools with one of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/hardware/magnets/pick-up-tools/15-lb-capacity-telescoping-magnetic-pickup-tool-64656.html |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
|
The drain and fill plugs for the rear pumpkin are on the side of the differential, on the passenger side. If you can get to them, the change is cake. The trick, however, is getting to them. For the drain procedure, I jacked up the driver's side about 6 inches. It made the drain more thorough, actually, since the hole was tilted slightly down. For the fill procedure, I did the opposite. The bottle has the ounces on it so you can do a calculation to see how much you need to put in. 80% of a quart bottle is about 26 ounces. So when the bottle gets down to about 6 ounces, you're there even if the slight tilt keeps the oil from running out of the fill hole. Lifting the car like that really, really makes the job a lot easier. It took me about 30 minutes to do it, taking my time. As for the oil, it was every bit as dark as the transmission oil, i.e., black with metal swirls in it. The drain magnet had a good bit of metal powder on it as well. I'm glad I changed it out. I would not recommend going 30k miles on that oil. I feel far more comfortable with the Motul in there now than I did with the factory oil. We'll see how it does. So far, shifting feels much smoother and the transmission should run a bit cooler. I don't know how, or if, it will affect gas mileage. |
Joey has a sweet build, well over 400hp daily. Goes over the mods while driving.  Big Turbo 22 WRX Cruise & Pulls // New Project Car Incoming! |
when you die, on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness
|
Originally Posted By TripleC: Joey has a sweet build, well over 400hp daily. Goes over the mods while driving. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bh0mkeP2eyc |
|
Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: He's done quite a bit of work since his transmission oil change video, lol. He now has a FMIC and I think I heard him say he's replaced his transmission with an STI part. I saw his high boost is 24psi+. I'd be happy to get 18psi but I know that's not happening without a tune. A real one, too. Bigger turbo. I think He made a video of each of his mods done to the car. |
when you die, on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness
| At a certain point of increased power, the heads start to lift off from the barrels. I don't think that 400hp is when that starts to happen, but I think the guys who make big power do a lot of additional things to prevent problems. Some use a modified (closed deck?) engine block. |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
|
Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Isn't the factory turbo capable of higher than 12psi of boost? I'm pretty sure it is. Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Originally Posted By TripleC: Bigger turbo. I think He made a video of each of his mods done to the car. Seen boost with a stock turbo in the mid 20s but boost isn't the whole equation. According to Graham from Boosted Performance the exhaust side of the stock turbo is what's holding back. Aftermarket turbos that are larger giving it way more breathing potential. |
when you die, on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness
|
Originally Posted By TripleC: Seen boost with a stock turbo in the mid 20s but boost isn't the whole equation. According to Graham from Boosted Performance the exhaust side of the stock turbo is what's holding back. Aftermarket turbos that are larger giving it way more breathing potential. |
|
Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Every time I have to remove the TMIC, I'm always paranoid that I'm not reinstalling it correctly. Would a boost leak lower PSI on a run? I was able to test today and got up to 11.8 PSI. It was a bit cooler and barometric pressure was higher than usual. I suspect that's what kept me from getting over 12 PSI on the run. If I had a boost leak, wouldn't I see it in max boost? No hissing noises or any other indications that I reinstalled the TMIC incorrectly. That is about normal. It depends on the weather too. Mine is at 13.6 at the moment. I have a K&N filter and ripped out the charcoal filter and that seemed to help out a bit. Are you still running the stock air filter and have your charcoal filter still installed? |
when you die, on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness
|
Originally Posted By TripleC: That is about normal. It depends on the weather too. Mine is at 13.6 at the moment. I have a K&N filter and ripped out the charcoal filter and that seemed to help out a bit. Are you still running the stock air filter and have your charcoal filter still installed? |
|
Anyone have a line on an appropriate handgun safe/vault for this? I had a console vault (the factory Toyota one) in my previous 4Runner - there's not enough room in the center console in these things to hold a 1911 or something similarly full-sized - you might be able to fit a Glock 19 in one, without a holster, and without an optic...but that's about it. And of course it doesn't lock. I don't mind something that's just tethered to the seat mount and slid under the seat, or between the seat and the transmission tunnel - this would be purely for storage of a carry gun when needing to enter a prohibited building (courthouse, etc), not a long term thing. I just don't know what's out there, and what would work with the WRX or not, so hoping someone else has explored this and found a solution? |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
|
Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I removed the carbon filter as one of the first mods. I have an AEM filter installed now. The highest PSI I've seen for my car is 12.7 on a warm day. I've read some stories of people with boost leaks who were only getting about 4-5 PSI on runs. So I'm guessing I'm good. Someone did a video using their shop car and went through various iterations of air filters, both with and WITHOUT the carbon filter.  2023 VB Subaru WRX Ultimate Intake Test: Stock vs Drop-in filter vs modded vs ETS intake. https://youtu.be/Bw8TP5F3O4k?t=116 should take you to the direct time stamp when he starts talking about it IIRC - it let it build RPMs faster but it didn't really budge the performance needle any more than that, and the cost was basically breaking emissions if you live in an emissions state. It's a few hundred bucks to replace the housing with a new filter (you can't just re-glue it back in apparently). It had no effect on peak boost in his testing. YMMV? I thought about deleting it on mine but the cost/benefit's not really there especially if you decide to sell it, and need to undo the change. It'll also put you at odds if you participate in any activities that require factory smog/emissions components to be unmodified... |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
| You guys who like to mod may already be all over this, but my understanding is that when you increase boost (however you go about it) you can reach a point where the stock fuel injectors cannot keep up and will need to be replaced with a higher output injector. |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
|
Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: Anyone have a line on an appropriate handgun safe/vault for this? I had a console vault (the factory Toyota one) in my previous 4Runner - there's not enough room in the center console in these things to hold a 1911 or something similarly full-sized - you might be able to fit a Glock 19 in one, without a holster, and without an optic...but that's about it. And of course it doesn't lock. I don't mind something that's just tethered to the seat mount and slid under the seat, or between the seat and the transmission tunnel - this would be purely for storage of a carry gun when needing to enter a prohibited building (courthouse, etc), not a long term thing. I just don't know what's out there, and what would work with the WRX or not, so hoping someone else has explored this and found a solution? |
|
Originally Posted By Emoto: You guys who like to mod may already be all over this, but my understanding is that when you increase boost (however you go about it) you can reach a point where the stock fuel injectors cannot keep up and will need to be replaced with a higher output injector. Boost is just one part of the equation but yes increasing it will increase power. Tune for tacos got 506HP out of the factory injectors. |
when you die, on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness
|
Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: I've run into the same problem. There's just not a lot of storage room in the car. The center console is tiny. I keep a flashlight, some keys, and a USB cable in there. It's more of a cubby. The glove box is a bit bigger. I've been able to squeeze a Dagger pistol with soft case in there but it's a tight fit. The space under the seats isn't too bad but it places a pistol out of easy reach. I'm still thinking about options myself. Originally Posted By TheLASwamp: Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: Anyone have a line on an appropriate handgun safe/vault for this? I had a console vault (the factory Toyota one) in my previous 4Runner - there's not enough room in the center console in these things to hold a 1911 or something similarly full-sized - you might be able to fit a Glock 19 in one, without a holster, and without an optic...but that's about it. And of course it doesn't lock. I don't mind something that's just tethered to the seat mount and slid under the seat, or between the seat and the transmission tunnel - this would be purely for storage of a carry gun when needing to enter a prohibited building (courthouse, etc), not a long term thing. I just don't know what's out there, and what would work with the WRX or not, so hoping someone else has explored this and found a solution? I just ordered a Hornady portable safe/vault thing - under the car seat is fine, I'll see if this one fits. It's almost entirely strictly for a place to stick my handgun when I need to go somewhere prohibited (court building, etc) - it's not for long-term storage of anything, but a safe place to stick shit that I need to take off for a little bit. |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
|
Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: I just ordered a Hornady portable safe/vault thing - under the car seat is fine, I'll see if this one fits. It's almost entirely strictly for a place to stick my handgun when I need to go somewhere prohibited (court building, etc) - it's not for long-term storage of anything, but a safe place to stick shit that I need to take off for a little bit. I look forward to hearing how this works out. |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
|
Sadly the specific Hornady vault that I ordered is almost literally a smidge too thick/tall to correctly fit under the driver's front seat; it won't even really start. It'll start to go under the passenger front seat...but still too tall. 1/8" or even less tall and I bet it'd fit just fine. But, the wire cable that you would use to anchor it to one of the seat mounts, DOES safely wrap around/anchor it to one of the trunk hood struts when it's closed - so you could anchor it in your trunk. So you could (in theory) disarm, go to the trunk, lock it and anchor it there, and go on about your day - then come back, unlock and untether the lockbox, close it up and bring it back inside the car, and re-arm yourself in the confines of your car. A bit of a faff, but it's doable, and the lock box is for sure large enough to fit just about every modern autoloader I can think of, especially ones with optics and/or lights on them. Hell it'll probably fit the whole rig, holster and spare mags included. Anything smaller than one of those should fit under car seats just fine - this one lengthways was ok to fit under the front seat, it was just too tall. |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
| Is there more height under the seat once you get past the edges? In other words, if you loosened the seat mounting bolts enough to raise the seat slightly, would there be enough room under the cushion to bolt the seat back down properly? |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
|
Originally Posted By Emoto: Is there more height under the seat once you get past the edges? In other words, if you loosened the seat mounting bolts enough to raise the seat slightly, would there be enough room under the cushion to bolt the seat back down properly? Probably, but to what end? Are you going to get out of your car, loosen the seat bolts, remove your portable handgun vault, secure your handgun, put it back under the seat, and then tighten the seat back down? |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
|
Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: Probably, but to what end? Are you going to get out of your car, loosen the seat bolts, remove your portable handgun vault, secure your handgun, put it back under the seat, and then tighten the seat back down? No, I thought maybe it opened on one end. |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
|
It opens like a Pelican, or Glock handgun case; it's not one of those drawer-types that slide open or closed. I don't like those because if it doesn't pop open when you unlock it...then what; what's your plan B for getting into it, since none of the ones I've seen have a handle to yank on it from the outside. They all seem to pop open via spring/lever... |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
|
Originally Posted By Evil_Ed: It opens like a Pelican, or Glock handgun case; it's not one of those drawer-types that slide open or closed. I don't like those because if it doesn't pop open when you unlock it...then what; what's your plan B for getting into it, since none of the ones I've seen have a handle to yank on it from the outside. They all seem to pop open via spring/lever... Yeah, that form seems difficult at best when placed underneath something. I was thinking you'd found something like the "gunvault". BTW, gunvault is a crap product best avoided. I have 2 of them and they both failed in fairly short order and the company owner found ways to not help me fix them. F him. Edit: How much height is there to work with? There's this: https://store.sentrysafe.com/collections/firearm-storage/products/pp1k |
Don't confuse where I live with where I'm from.
|
Originally Posted By Emoto: Yeah, that form seems difficult at best when placed underneath something. I was thinking you'd found something like the "gunvault". BTW, gunvault is a crap product best avoided. I have 2 of them and they both failed in fairly short order and the company owner found ways to not help me fix them. F him. Edit: How much height is there to work with? There's this: https://store.sentrysafe.com/collections/firearm-storage/products/pp1k Originally Posted By Emoto: Yeah, that form seems difficult at best when placed underneath something. I was thinking you'd found something like the "gunvault". BTW, gunvault is a crap product best avoided. I have 2 of them and they both failed in fairly short order and the company owner found ways to not help me fix them. F him. Edit: How much height is there to work with? There's this: https://store.sentrysafe.com/collections/firearm-storage/products/pp1k Just eyeballing it, it'll be too tall - the TrekLite XXL box I got is 3.3" tall (according to Hornady) and even without the factory all-weather floormat on the passenger floor behind the driver's seat; even if I lift that out, there's not enough room under the driver's seat. I mean there MIGHT be, if you really want to jam it in there with some force - but now it's stuck under the seat, good luck getting it out, etc. I'd say 3" or 2.5" would be even better for a max external dimension. Yeah the SentrySafe has the same external dimension, at least for being tall: Exterior Height x Width x Depth 3.3 in x 11.3 in x 10.0 in The Hornady one I got is Exterior Dimensions: 12.2" x 10.1" x 3.3" Now, something like this: https://store.hornady.com/hornady-lock-box-xl would be perfect-ish - the problem is, it's not big enough for a full size 1911 with an optic, I don't think, and not one with a couple of reloads thrown in as well. (Walking into a court house or gov't building with a couple reloads on your belt that you forgot about isn't fun - need to chuck them into the lockbox as well...) It needn't be any taller, but longer and wider to fit would be perfect...so trying to find that kind of goldilocks size. The more I roll it around in my head, the more I think it's not a huge deal frankly - these cars having locking trunks that don't have glass panels in them, unlike most SUVs so to be brutally honest this discussion is mostly moot. The concept is better served for things like Crosstreks, Foresters or Outbacks...but, still. Frankly finding one that slides under the front seat from the front is probably better but that's even tougher given that there's a big ridge right there, so even if you get the lock box past that, trying to get it back out the front would be an exercise in frustration... |
"Oh, bother," said Pooh, as he pulled the pin on another grenade...
|
I have a Kimber lock box that's pretty small and looks like it'd fit under the seats without issue. I found a link to a pic of it. I keep it by my bedside but it looks like it would work for what you need it to do. Link |