A 66 Mustang rebuild thread/saga. - back from dyno tune (Page 8 of 8)
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Spoke to engine shop today. Waiting on thd cam to come back from being spec'd. Once that is done the engine should be going back together to check for valve spring seat pressure, lift, and ordering off pushrods if the 1:7 ratio rockers are suitable for the cam/springs. With luck engine back in around 2 weeks. Gonna try to either take 3 days off before christmas or new years to have it running again. Car goes back up in the air for thanksgiving to make PTFE fuel lines and I am gonna retorque all the suspension bits. Might try to get new headers cut and welded for new O2 sensor bungs on each side as well so those are ready when engine goes back in. Will have to modify the exhaust one last time hopefully with the new headers and car will be good for awhile. Was thinking of running a pancake style oil cooler but I am not fond of running the lines to a cooler where if I take damage to the cooler I will just spit all the oil out of the engine with a quickness. What the engine was sounding like a few days before the cam pin sheered and things went all fucky. Running up through 3rd |
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Originally Posted By Obvious_Man: Bump for updates? Actually yeah. Was coming to look for the thread and figured it would be on page 2 now. Picked the engine up from shop today. Have flywheel/clutch/bellhousing on along with front accesories. Couple things to run around and get tomorrow. Have to wind up modifying one of like 4 exhaust manifold gaskets I have because none of them fit the ports/bolt pattern correctly. Engine should be in by end of tomorrow and everything hooked up. Likely firing it up on Sunday. Would post some pictures but imgur is being a little bitch and wont let me upload from my phone. |
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Managed to hit my goal of driving to work today. Got engine and everything installed Sat. Called it a day. Yesterday I was adding fluids and wrapping up wiring. Said to myself "prime the engine, dont just assume they did it." Wound up finding a shit ton of oil at the back of the block off plate between block and bell housing. After severe shouting I took pics and sent to owner of engine shop. He called me as soon as he saw that shit. It took me an hour to tear down all the shit I had installed the previous day. Fuck I hate removing/installing transmissions even if it is a little 85 pound T5. I also had my bell housing set so goddamn true to the crank while the engine was out. So much harder to fuck with that shit while engine is in the car. Got back to looking at the galley plugs and you can see one leaking. Pulled it out. Shop owner came over and took a look at it. Found a hole drilled in it for the purpose of it acting like a squirter. He was pissed. Kept that fitting to take to his older than hell set in his ways build guy to basically feed it to him. We put new plugs in and sealed them. Reprimed to confirm no leak. Then I spent the next 2 hours manhandling shit as I reinstalled the trans and all the other shit. Went through rest of my fluids and electrical. Car was fired last night in my garage at 10pm. Didnt want to piss off entire neighborhood ao did it with garage door and windows shut. Once I had timing set I could barely see from my eyes watering. It was 32 degrees this morning when I fired up. Tune was from summer time and she was not happy. I reset the ECU and put it in super safe base learn mode. Fired right up and idle was decent. As learn table populates I will get the car back to a decent idle while I watch for leaks, oil/temp and AFR. I legitimately forgot how loud this car was. Left for work this morning at 0715 hours. Set off 3 car alarms in the parking garage when I got to work. I have the next 6 days off to fuck around with it. Then back monday followed by another 6 days off. |
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Originally Posted By ScottsGT: Wow, I remember humping it like that in my younger days. At 59 now, that would be a months job for me.  Anger is the great motivator... My neck is pretty sore today from all the awkward angles I have been hitting the past 48 hours while up and down and back and forth. Today a thermactor plug backed out on me and I thought I had a goddamn exhaust leak in the headers. Took me awhile to find |
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Originally Posted By K_Mac: It's not uncommon to have a "squirter" galley plug for the distributor gear. It's a good practice unless it's installed in the wrong location  When building a SBF, I tap and plug all of them, of course the internal plugs are drilled to allow oil to flow. It sounds like an external plug was drilled? What a pain. |
10/22/14 I stand with Canada
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Originally Posted By mustb123: When building a SBF, I tap and plug all of them, of course the internal plugs are drilled to allow oil to flow. It sounds like an external plug was drilled? What a pain. Sometimes a FRONT galley plug will be drilled with a tiny hole. It provides a pressurized oil feed to the distributor gear and timing set. Especially if running a bronze dist gear, a little extra oil helps them live longer. Some dumbass wasn’t paying attention and put a drilled plug in the back |
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Update on where the car sits. Now at 1200 miles on the rebuild. Last week I locked out the distributor and enabled the ECU timing control. I built a timing curve that wasnt bad but it hesitated slightly while cold like the old mechanical advance. I thought maybe it was pinging so I I shifted my timing to the right to delay the advance by 200 RPM. The hesitation got worse. Then it all clicked on how poor timing can effect EVERYTHING. Did the reverse move with timing by shifting the curve 200rpm sooner and my cold temps hesitation went away. So a week of playing around with the curve to have the timing come in earlier while feeling for that partial throttle hesitation has the car running even better. Saturday I took a 70 mile drive out to local road course and nearly squeeked 13mpg. Made a change and did basically the same drive sunday and wound up a little worse off for mileage. Looked at the plugs and they were beginning to foul. I had put in colder plugs back when I was seeing hesitation and mistaking it for pinging. Compounding a problem much? Yes, I know, but at least it was towards a more retarded condition as opposed to being too hot/advanced. Went in and looked at my MAP while in cruise and reset my timing for a bit more advance under cruise conditions and leaned out the fuel ever so slightly more. Result for 105 miles driven yesterday with a 70+mph average was 15mpg. That includes a couple 4th gear blasts to 5k rpm for passing. Now that I am squeeking in on a proper timing curve it is interesting to see how the fuel table and learn table is responding. Given the timing was off before the ECU trying to compensate for AFRs that it was seeing was just bat shit. I may not have noticed it but looking back on it my brain was definitely figuring it out. In reflection, my decision to keep mechanical advance for my initial setup of the car was smart in terms of not having too many variables to try and control. I could have run a bit more initial advance on the mechanical setup but I was trying to keep my total advance to 32deg and by doing that it set me to around 13-14deg intial. Was worried I may have too much WOT advance if I went beyond 15deg initial. Adding timing control later helped put the pieces together and see the effect of that mid range advance as well as see the effect of running a hotter plug. Started with Autolite 3924s but stepped down to 3922s. As I roll timing back in I am now back to 3923s. Going to play with timing a little bit more while watching the plugs. Once I think I am in a good spot I will bring the timing down slightly by maybe .25-.5% from 33 total to like 31.5 then put the 3924 plugs back in and then rework the timing curve one final time. The no brainer was how the fuel map is absolutely keyed to the timing map while using target AFR. But not knowing that your timing curve is shit makes the fuel map basically complete garbage. It could have been so much worse had I gone with adjust timing from the beginning. The final learning step will be paying to get a dyno tune done and seeing what a polished fuel/timing map looks like as compared to where I was. I would post pictures of what these tune files look like where the 2D tables and heat range maps for fuel/timing are changing during theae tweaks. But imgur is being a little bitch and wont recognize uploads from my phone. May change browsers and see if the problem goes away. Also getting ready to buy all my sheet metal in the hopes of getting car out to body work come end of summer. |
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So as I am learning more about the tuning software I am also learning more about the Sniper and how prone it is to picking up electro magnetic noise. I was working on phasing the rotor better the other night and brought out my cap with the hole drilled in it for phasing. Did some tweeks and thought I was set. At the time I didnt buy a clue but as I put thd air cleaner back on the idle got a bit irratic. Figured maybe it was speed density system noticing change in the air cleaner restriction. Phasing cap was still on and I went to do just a short drive with the phasing cap on. TPS sensor went haywire and the handheld said "fuck your couch" and basically shut down with "no data" fields every where. Car was hard to restart as well. Went through all wires and then figured it must be the cap. Swapped to my cap without the goatse sized hole drilled in it. Problem gone. But is it really? How much better can I get it if I maybe dont have a giant reflector of an air cleaner on the throttle body? Maybe use a plastic one? There is even a guy on youtube suggesting the stud for the aircleaner hold down could act as an antenna. Here I am with a magnetic pick up billet distributor sending the phasing voltage along a pair of wires doing fuck all for voltage. Gauranteed there is noise in that system as well. A hall effect distributor would be nice but the Holley forums have a lot of talk about those systems sending off EMI noise as well. Gonna be doing two things. Looking at building some shielding to try and help address the issue while looking for an air cleaner base that isnt reflective. May move the coil as well. Also going to at some point look at the Terminator Stealth because it puts the brains of the system inside the car instead of underhood. Also a lot more inputs/outputs for various sensors if I want to add them like a trans and diff temp sensor along with cooler outputs for both. |
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Couple image updates from interior quality of life upgrades. Mocking up a 3D printed bezel. Took measurements off the original radio for getting bolt hole locations and centerline to the square opening. First print off the 3D printer was close enough to perfect in almost every way. This piece will be for new gauges to monitor oil temp and fuel pressure.  Machined out of aluminum with bolt recesses cut to within a few thou of being a press in fit.  Bezel polished with carbon fiber insert machined .015 smaller on x/y to be a press fit and then epoxied into place.  Crap picture of old before with stock radio but with my Ford logo high beam indicator turned on.  Gauge cluster installed waiting for wiring to be hooked up.  Vid clip of the gauge and how the carbon fiber gives off a jeweled look. https://imgur.com/Vf7eCaM |
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Been a long time since updates. Put about 5k miles on the car in the last year. Spent the past 3 weeks on vacation and got some shit done. Made a new bulkhead for the trunk for fuel lines and the diff breather/overflow.      New seats went in. Old original seat was collapsing and couldnt stand up to cornering capabilities of the car. New Sparcos are "big boy" seats and with the non-quick disconnect steering wheel it leaves you feeling old and fat trying to get in and out Figuring out a way to mount the seats as low as possible to wirk arou d tge stock seat risers and still be safe was a challenge. Wound up using .375 aluminum plate with counter sinks to leave the screws flush to the back side. The brackets got bolted to the plate and then the whole thing bolts down into the stock bolt holes. Overall head position from headliner is about the same as if I had a good stock seat that was not a bent to shit POS. Doors close with about an 1/4 inch to spare between shoulder bolster and door.   A roll bar and harness bar going in when car goes to body work. Hoping spring of next year. Will be 3D scanning the rear package tray area after roll bar goes in and ve doing a rear seat delete along with fire bottle mounts. |