Bakelite Myth of the M16 (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 7/23/2026 12:32:43 PM EDT
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I know there a a lot of experts here, but diving into the Bakelite question Google said this... M16 handguards and grips were always made from fiberglass-reinforced composites, never genuine Bakelite. The widespread belief that early M16s featured Bakelite furniture is a persistent myth. It stems entirely from the striking visual similarity between the two materials. The distinct brownish, mottled appearance of early M16 stocks, handguards, and grips is a byproduct of the manufacturing processes and materials of the era. What Made Them Look Brown and Mottled? The early Colt and ArmaLite handguards were manufactured using a specialized material compound known as Fiberlite (or Fiberrite), which is a phenolic/polyester thermoset resin blended with loose fiberglass strands. The unique visual look came down to three distinct factors: The Raw Fiberglass Filler: When the liquid resin was mixed with structural fiberglass fibers and squeezed into compression molds, the glass strands clustered randomly. Because these glass fibers do not absorb the colored resin evenly, they created lighter, swirled patches throughout the material. This raw "mottling" effect is the exact pattern collectors look for today. Unpigmented Base Resins: The very first production batches (such as on the Colt Model 601) left the fiberglass resin unpigmented. The natural cured color of this fiberglass-epoxy composite is a deep, reddish-brown. Worn Exterior Paint: To make the rifles look uniform for the military, Colt initially painted these reddish-brown stocks with specialized "chocolate brown" or "grass green" exterior coatings. In the harsh jungles of Vietnam, soldier handling, solvents, and heat scraped this thin paint layer right off. The paint wore away first on the high points of the grip or triangular handguard corners, exposing the swirling, mottled brown raw fiberglass underneath. The Move to Solid BlackBy the mid-1960s, Colt fixed the peeling paint issue by blending dense black carbon pigments directly into the liquid fiberglass resin before it was molded. This created the standard matte-black look found on the classic Vietnam-era M16A1. However, even on those solid black pieces, looking closely under bright direct sunlight often reveals the faint, swirling shapes of the hidden fiberglass structural strands molded beneath the surface. |
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I'd buy a set of bakelite furniture, I imagine more than a few people would. Is it feasible for a specialty company to reproduce them? Make a set of molds, get material, easy peasy right (and NO, I'm not going to do it). I know there's 'fakelite', but how good does it look as compared to the origional? ETA: The original phenolic resin needs a press (heat and tonnage of forces), can't be replicated at home. But, google gave me a recipe for different fiberglass resin tints, fiberglass etc... but one would need a mold. Back to google to look for molds... |
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Luth AR does 'fakelite' furniture. I think they just recently did a run, but they are showing out of stock now. https://luth-ar.com/product/complete-retro-a1-furniture-kit-fakelite/ |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: I'd buy a set of bakelite furniture, I imagine more than a few people would. Is it feasible for a specialty company to reproduce them? Make a set of molds, get material, easy peasy right (and NO, I'm not going to do it). I know there's 'fakelite', but how good does it look as compared to the origional? ETA: The original phenolic resin needs a press (heat and tonnage of forces), can't be replicated at home. But, google gave me a recipe for different fiberglass resin tints, fiberglass etc... but one would need a mold. Back to google to look for molds... Maybe you can't replicate it at home. I've got a 3HP hydraulic pump, a milling machine set up for mold making and all of need is a couple Novus temp controllers and a cylinder. You can probably get really close with a modern epoxy resin, fiberglass and some coloring then just do it on a vacuum table. |
| So bakelite stocks and grips had no fiber in them? |
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Originally Posted By hotdog250j: Which is all well and good, but AI gets it's information from published sources they can access. Published by who? By anyone with an opinion. Don't rely on the internet for the final say. This, yet 87% of GD gets their “knowledge” the same way, instead of books & experience. Ironic, no? |
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Originally Posted By FredMan: So bakelite stocks and grips had no fiber in them? Yes, the fiber was chopped fiberglass. True or Not, per Google... The original M16 and M16A1 triangular handguards were manufactured using a specialized aerospace-grade composite technique called compression molding. The Materials: Instead of modern meltable plastics, the original handguards were made of a thermosetting polymer composite. The Matrix: Colt utilized a thermoset compound frequently referred to in military documentation as Fiberite. This combined a phenol-formaldehyde resin (structurally similar to Bakelite) or an epoxy base resin. The Reinforcement: Short, chopped strands of E-glass fiberglass were thoroughly blended into the raw resin mass. This created a Sheet Molding Compound (SMC) or Bulk Molding Compound (BMC). The Properties: Once heated and cured, this material underwent a permanent chemical cross-linking. It would never melt under high barrel temperatures, though it was brittle by modern standards. Compression Molding Method: Unlike modern high-speed injection molding, the original process resembled a heavy-duty industrial waffle iron Preparing the Charge: A precisely weighed "slug" or sheet of the pliable, raw fiber-and-resin mixture was prepared. The Heated Press: The raw compound was placed directly into the open cavity of a heated, multi-piece metal tool die consisting of male and female halves. High Pressure: A massive hydraulic press slammed the heated mold halves together. This intense force squeezed the softened compound, filling every intricate crevice of the triangular shape. Curing: The parts were held under pressure while the heat triggered a chemical reaction (baking the thermoset resin) until rigid. Post-Processing: The finished left or right handguard half was ejected, trimmed of excess squeezed-out material ("flash"), and riveted to its internal stamped aluminum heat shield. How They Got Their Colors: The distinct colors of vintage M16 furniture were achieved through through-molding pigment integration and external finishing. The Original Green (Colt Model 601): The earliest AR-15s adopted by the U.S. military featured a reddish-brown or yellowish-base composite mix. Because they could not achieve a clean military green directly in the resin mix, Colt originally painted these early handguards with a specialized, durable green primer and topcoat. Over years of hard military use, this green paint layer would wear away, revealing the brown fiberglass matrix underneath. The Classic Black (M16A1): As production ramped up for the M16A1, black carbon pigment was blended directly into the liquid Fiberite resin mass prior to molding. This through-color meant scratches wouldn't show a different color beneath. The "Mottled" Bakelite Look: Original vintage black handguards are famous for a swirly, uneven, slightly shiny appearance. This distinctive texture happened because the white and translucent fiberglass reinforcement strands didn't completely absorb the black dye. This caused the fibers to catch the light differently than the surrounding solid resin, giving it the iconic "1,000-yard stare" finish prized by collectors today. |
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Replying to my own thread. Going into the Bakelite rabbit hole, I recall the old phone had really thick, heavy, black plastic that had a very rough texture if it was broken, that is also Bakelite. I sold Chevy's in the 90's and they made fenders out of SMC (sheet molded compound) Saturn did too if I recall, we all just called it plastic. Apparently it's made in a sheet, the type of resin doesn't cure until heat and pressure is applied. I was under the impression it was more or less injection molded. I have seen a few handguards made from large weave fiberglass, not certain what the resin was, or if it's able to be called Bakelite. I still have some pots and pans with Bakelite handles. |
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Originally Posted By hotdog250j: Which is all well and good, but AI gets it's information from published sources they can access. Published by who? By anyone with an opinion. Don't rely on the internet for the final say. Pearls before swine. GD trust AI and YT totally. |
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Originally Posted By Clovis_Chitwood: Luth AR does 'fakelite' furniture. I think they just recently did a run, but they are showing out of stock now. https://luth-ar.com/product/complete-retro-a1-furniture-kit-fakelite/ |
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It's relevant information, and very timely too! I just made a set of dies for my carbine prototype. There's some bugs to work out and I need to change the interior design, but I have made a couple resin handguards just to play with. I wanted to do compression molding and I think these can be modified for that. I want to replicate the fiberlite look. I have tried chopping up fiberglass and mixing it with resin, but not under compression. Attached File Attached File |
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Originally Posted By LawnDartGoalie: It's relevant information, and very timely too! I just made a set of dies for my carbine prototype. There's some bugs to work out and I need to change the interior design, but I have made a couple resin handguards just to play with. I wanted to do compression molding and I think these can be modified for that. I want to replicate the fiberlite look. I have tried chopping up fiberglass and mixing it with resin, but not under compression. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/548699/18896_jpg-3800284.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/548699/18897_jpg-3800285.JPG OP here, I m not taking what Google says as gospel, but there has to be some nuggets of info in there. it did give a process for making the mottled look of the originals with different colors of resin that can be used with plain fiberglass. How close to the look did you get? the process is 1/4 to 1/2 chopped fiberglass, amber resin mixed 'see through', brown, and add a dash of carbon black(?). Paint the mold with the amber, soak some fiberglass in each color and mold it. I can find it again if you'd like. |
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@LawnDartGoalie Last time it said to cut up the 'glass into 1/4 to 1/2 inch pieces. Depending upon how you ask the question you may get varying answers but they are all similar, maybe I'll check Grok as well. Am I going to make any? No, but I still find it pretty interesting how the handguards came to be. To achieve an authentic, deep-mottled "fakelite" look entirely through the fiberglass casting process without paint, you must use translucent liquid tints rather than opaque pigments. True Bakelite (phenolic resin) gets its iconic look from light passing through varying depths of amber resin suspended over compressed wood-flour or fabric fibers. Here is the precise material blueprint, color ratio guide, and layup process. 1. Fiberglass & Resin Selection The Resin: Clear Polyester Laminating Resin or a low-viscosity Clear Epoxy Resin. Polyester is traditionally preferred for handguards because it handles the high heat of a rifle better than standard craft epoxies. The Glass Reinforcement: Woven Fiberglass Cloth (4 oz or 6 oz weight). Crucial Detail: Do not use Chopped Strand Mat (CSM). CSM contains a white chemical binder that does not turn transparent when wet with resin. Woven cloth goes completely translucent, allowing the layered resin colors and fiberglass textures to mimic the compressed organic fibers found in real Bakelite. 2. Color Formulations & Ratios You will need translucent liquid resin dyes (like Alumilite Liquid Dye or PolyColor Tints) in four distinct batches. Use a base ratio of roughly 75% Total Volume for your primary body color and 25% split among your accent swirls. Resin Batch Color Target Approximate Pigment Ratio (Per 100ml of Resin) Batch A (75%)Main Body Base Translucent Amber-Orange4 drops Orange + 2 drops Yellow + 1 drop Brown Batch B (10%)Dark Swirls / Striations Translucent Burnt Umber4 drops Brown + 2 drops Orange + 1 drop Black Batch C (10%)Highlights Bright Translucent Yellow5 drops Yellow + 1 drop Orange Batch D (5%)Depth Contrast Dark Charcoal / Red-Black4 drops Black + 2 drops Red Note: Always measure your manufacturer’s exact hardener/catalyst ratio (e.g., 2% MEKP for polyester resin) before or immediately after tinting. 3. The Swirled Fiberglass Layup Process To get a mottled pattern rather than a muddy, solid color, you must use a dirty-pour open layup technique inside your handguard mold. Prep the Mold: Thoroughly coat your handguard mold with Paste Wax and PVA Mold Release Agent. The Gelcoat Layer (The Pattern): Mix your four color batches in separate cups. In a clean pouring cup, dump Batch A (Amber) first. Pour a thin stream of Batch B (Dark Brown) and Batch C (Yellow) directly through the middle of the amber resin. Do not stir. Gently pour this unmixed, multi-colored resin directly into the mold face. Take a stir stick and draw a single "S" shape through the mold to lightly drag the colors into organic veins.Laying the Glass: Wait until the gelcoat becomes tacky but not fully hard (roughly 20-30 minutes). Lay your pre-cut strips of woven fiberglass cloth into the mold. Stippling the Resin: Pour more of Batch A (Amber) over the cloth. Use a cut-down, stiff bristle brush to "stipple" (damp vertically) the resin into the glass cloth. This pushes air bubbles out without smearing your mottled face pattern. Adding the Final Layer: For the final internal layer of glass, wet it out with remnants of Batch B (Dark Brown) and D (Black). This creates a dark backing that forces light to bounce back through the translucent amber front face, giving the part incredible visual depth.De-mold and Polish: Once fully cured, pop the part out. If the finish is slightly dull from the mold, wet-sand it with 2000-grit sandpaper and buff it with a plastic polishing compound to bring out a factory phenolic glass sheen. |
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@LawnDartGoalie I'd love to see the results if you decide to make a set For some reason Grok doesn't go quite into detail. I *assume they are both getting their info from the same source, who knows. I have no doubt there are some experts here who have already done this. Required Materials (Ingredients) Resin: Polyester resin (cheapest, closest to original; marine/boat repair grade) OR Epoxy resin (stronger, better adhesion, less shrinkage, but more expensive and slower cure). Pigments/Colors (for tinting the resin): Amber/translucent brown (main color) — Use polyester-compatible liquid pigments, universal tints, or resin dyes (e.g., brown, honey, or amber shades). Darker brown (for mottling depth). Very dark brown or black (small amounts for contrast and "veins"). Optional: White or light tan for highlights. Use pigment pastes or powders designed for fiberglass resin (1-5% by weight max — too much weakens the composite). Brands like FibreGlast or generic gelcoat pigments work well. Fiberglass Reinforcement: Chopped strand mat (CSM) 1.5 oz/yd² (common for hand layups) — good for random fiber mottling. Or a mix with woven fiberglass cloth (e.g., 6-10 oz/yd² E-glass) for strength in high-stress areas. Size: Standard E-glass (electrical grade) is fine; no special "M16" type needed. Avoid carbon fiber unless you want a modern hybrid. Other: Mold release agent (PVA or wax). Catalyst/hardener (MEKP for polyester; specific for epoxy). Gelcoat (optional tinted outer layer for smoothness and color). Tools: Brushes/rollers, mixing cups, vacuum bag (optional for better consolidation), mold (see below). Proportions (Approximate per batch — scale as needed): Resin : Pigment — Start with 1-3% pigment by weight (e.g., 10-30g pigment per 1kg resin). Mix thoroughly before adding catalyst. Base batch: 70-80% amber-brown resin. Mottling: Prepare small separate batches with darker brown (add 2-5% extra dark pigment) and very dark (trace black/brown). Resin : Fiberglass — Aim for 30-40% resin by weight in the final laminate (60-70% glass for strength). Too much resin = brittle; too little = dry spots. Catalyst: Follow manufacturer (typically 1-2% MEKP for polyester). Step-by-Step Process (Hand Layup in a Mold) Make a Mold: Use an original (or high-quality replica) handguard as a plug. Cover with mold release, build a fiberglass or silicone mother mold around it. Split mold for easy release. This is the hardest part for accuracy (include heat shield mounting points, grooves, etc.). Prepare Colored Resins: Mix small batches of tinted resin (amber base, dark variants). Stir pigments extremely well to avoid clumps. Test cure a small sample for color and strength. Layup: Apply tinted gelcoat (amber-brown) to the mold for the outer surface (optional but recommended for smooth finish). Lay wet-out fiberglass mat/cloth in the mold. Dab or pour darker resin batches irregularly while laying up layers to create mottling — don't over-mix; let colors swirl and streak naturally for the marbled effect. Build 3-6 layers (depending on thickness desired; originals were fairly thin but stiff). Roll out air bubbles thoroughly. For more authentic random mottling: Use chopped fibers mixed into resin in spots. Cure: Let cure at room temp (or post-cure in oven per resin instructions for max strength). Demold after full cure (24-48+ hours). Finish: Trim flash, sand with progressive grits (up to 600+), polish if desired. Apply a light oil rub or clear coat for depth if needed. Tips & Warnings Mottling Control: The random fiber + uneven pigment distribution creates the look — experiment on test panels. Originals had visible fiber "veins." Strength/Heat: Add internal aluminum heat shields like originals. Test for barrel heat tolerance. Safety: Work in ventilated area; resins are toxic (fumes, skin irritants). Use respirator, gloves. Difficulty: This is advanced DIY. First attempts may not match perfectly — practice on small parts. Compression molding (factory method) gives better density than hand layup. Sourcing: Fiberglass suppliers (e.g., FibreGlast, Amazon marine sections), resin from boat shops. This will get you very close to the original Fibrite aesthetic and feel. If you need mold-making details or specific product links, provide your location or setup! |
| bmarshall1, thanks for the follow-ups. The only successful pieces so far are the resin ones in my first reply. I tried "craft" epoxy, but it got stuck on the mold. I tried chopping my own fiberglass, but it doesn't work well with the colored resin. I have more chopped fiberglass and dyes on order and I'll pick up some casting epoxy locally. |
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I have never heard of this "myth" before but I have seen Ian McCullom's videos of the original AR10's/ prototype AR15's where he CLEARLY stated what the original furniture was made of, and it wasn't Bakelite. Who has been spreading this myth? Somebody with real information, or "just some guy on the Internet"? |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: OP here, I m not taking what Google says as gospel, but there has to be some nuggets of info in there. it did give a process for making the mottled look of the originals with different colors of resin that can be used with plain fiberglass. How close to the look did you get? the process is 1/4 to 1/2 chopped fiberglass, amber resin mixed 'see through', brown, and add a dash of carbon black(?). Paint the mold with the amber, soak some fiberglass in each color and mold it. I can find it again if you'd like. Originally Posted By bmarshall1: Originally Posted By LawnDartGoalie: It's relevant information, and very timely too! I just made a set of dies for my carbine prototype. There's some bugs to work out and I need to change the interior design, but I have made a couple resin handguards just to play with. I wanted to do compression molding and I think these can be modified for that. I want to replicate the fiberlite look. I have tried chopping up fiberglass and mixing it with resin, but not under compression. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/548699/18896_jpg-3800284.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/548699/18897_jpg-3800285.JPG OP here, I m not taking what Google says as gospel, but there has to be some nuggets of info in there. it did give a process for making the mottled look of the originals with different colors of resin that can be used with plain fiberglass. How close to the look did you get? the process is 1/4 to 1/2 chopped fiberglass, amber resin mixed 'see through', brown, and add a dash of carbon black(?). Paint the mold with the amber, soak some fiberglass in each color and mold it. I can find it again if you'd like. His Google trust is lacking. There is some good info in there, phenol resin with glass reinforcement, and some utter shit info such as crashing a mold together. You don't crash molds together. They are expensive. |
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Originally Posted By LawnDartGoalie: bmarshall1, thanks for the follow-ups. The only successful pieces so far are the resin ones in my first reply. I tried "craft" epoxy, but it got stuck on the mold. I tried chopping my own fiberglass, but it doesn't work well with the colored resin. I have more chopped fiberglass and dyes on order and I'll pick up some casting epoxy locally. What are you using for a mold release? In the past I've used simple automotive wax. Worked well. |
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The name Bakelite had a copyright attached to it. Companies changed up the formula/process slightly, then renamed it, as something else. Any phenolic resin, held at high temp, under pressure. Is Bakelite. That is why you see so many different names, for basically the same substance. The russians called theirs AG-4 |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: I did see a picture of one made with a large weave fiberglass, I have no idea if it was an AR10, m16, or repro. But it looked nice and has the same rich amber coloration that is desired. |
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Originally Posted By Scott-S6: On this forum OP's posts are highlighted by being a different color to the rest. Everyone can see that. Why do you point out that you're OP? Bot account? Originally Posted By Scott-S6: Originally Posted By bmarshall1: OP here On this forum OP's posts are highlighted by being a different color to the rest. Everyone can see that. Why do you point out that you're OP? Bot account? OP here  Because I recently found out and enabled that feature (very cool), so in prev. threads I announced myself so everyone knows it's me! Habit I suppose. |
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Originally Posted By Kilroytheknifesnob: People who post AI slop here should be banned. The guy who actually designed those is a member here. Maybe we could ask a credible source? Wow, sorry to be a buzz-kill IN MY OWN THREAD. But I'm always out to learn and I though it was interesting. No where else did I see any DIY instructions. 'AI Slop' educated me on what Bakelite REALLY was, as well as sheet molded compound. If someone can get the original designer in this thread I'd be happy for the insider knowledge, I have no idea who he is. So yea, a little AI involved but less slop and a bit ok knowledge. It's also why it's in GD, I don't want to dirty up the retro forum with my limited knowledge. |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: Wow, sorry to be a buzz-kill IN MY OWN THREAD. But I'm always out to learn and I though it was interesting. No where else did I see any DIY instructions. 'AI Slop' educated me on what Bakelite REALLY was, as well as sheet molded compound. If someone can get the original designer in this thread I'd be happy for the insider knowledge, I have no idea who he is. So yea, a little AI involved but less slop and a bit ok knowledge. It's also why it's in GD, I don't want to dirty up the retro forum with my limited knowledge. I appreciate your efforts OP, some great info. I doubt the designer of the original bakelite furniture is on AR15. com, wouldn't he be pushing 90 years old? These were designed in the late 50s. I've gotten a decent bakelite look using West System 105 epoxy with the 205 hardener (an amber color) and black walnut saw dust from a table saw. |
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| I notice on the early non-trapdoor stocks, “speckles” start to appear as the exterior gets worn. I assume those are reinforcement fibers involved in the plastic molding process. The later A1 furniture, and A2 furniture don’t seem to ever get the same “speckled” look. |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: Wow, sorry to be a buzz-kill IN MY OWN THREAD. But I'm always out to learn and I though it was interesting. No where else did I see any DIY instructions. 'AI Slop' educated me on what Bakelite REALLY was, as well as sheet molded compound. If someone can get the original designer in this thread I'd be happy for the insider knowledge, I have no idea who he is. So yea, a little AI involved but less slop and a bit ok knowledge. It's also why it's in GD, I don't want to dirty up the retro forum with my limited knowledge. Originally Posted By bmarshall1: Originally Posted By Kilroytheknifesnob: People who post AI slop here should be banned. The guy who actually designed those is a member here. Maybe we could ask a credible source? Wow, sorry to be a buzz-kill IN MY OWN THREAD. But I'm always out to learn and I though it was interesting. No where else did I see any DIY instructions. 'AI Slop' educated me on what Bakelite REALLY was, as well as sheet molded compound. If someone can get the original designer in this thread I'd be happy for the insider knowledge, I have no idea who he is. So yea, a little AI involved but less slop and a bit ok knowledge. It's also why it's in GD, I don't want to dirty up the retro forum with my limited knowledge. The slop was wrong. Hence Slop. Folks already told you how to do it before the slop. Phenolic resin under pressure at elevated temperature. Basically you are going to need a heated mold and a way to inject phenolic resin and hold it under pressure. Out of reach of most DIY, particularly the resin injection. The rest is just machining and heaters. It's basic composites. Nothing really special anymore. We do the same thing with molds and autoclaves. |
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Originally Posted By Deerhurst: What are you using for a mold release? In the past I've used simple automotive wax. Worked well. I have a variety of silicone and non-silicone sprays and PVA. The issue is with the die design. I realized a few mistakes after I made them, but that's ok since I want to change up the design anyway. |
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Originally Posted By LawnDartGoalie: I have a variety of silicone and non-silicone sprays and PVA. The issue is with the die design. I realized a few mistakes after I made them, but that's ok since I want to change up the design anyway. Relief angles wrong holding the part in the mold? Designing molds can be hard. Tool and die guys are a special breed. |
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Originally Posted By Deerhurst: The slop was wrong. Hence Slop. Folks already told you how to do it before the slop. Phenolic resin under pressure at elevated temperature. Basically you are going to need a heated mold and a way to inject phenolic resin and hold it under pressure. Out of reach of most DIY, particularly the resin injection. The rest is just machining and heaters. It's basic composites. Nothing really special anymore. We do the same thing with molds and autoclaves. Originally Posted By Deerhurst: Originally Posted By bmarshall1: Originally Posted By Kilroytheknifesnob: People who post AI slop here should be banned. The guy who actually designed those is a member here. Maybe we could ask a credible source? Wow, sorry to be a buzz-kill IN MY OWN THREAD. But I'm always out to learn and I though it was interesting. No where else did I see any DIY instructions. 'AI Slop' educated me on what Bakelite REALLY was, as well as sheet molded compound. If someone can get the original designer in this thread I'd be happy for the insider knowledge, I have no idea who he is. So yea, a little AI involved but less slop and a bit ok knowledge. It's also why it's in GD, I don't want to dirty up the retro forum with my limited knowledge. The slop was wrong. Hence Slop. Folks already told you how to do it before the slop. Phenolic resin under pressure at elevated temperature. Basically you are going to need a heated mold and a way to inject phenolic resin and hold it under pressure. Out of reach of most DIY, particularly the resin injection. The rest is just machining and heaters. It's basic composites. Nothing really special anymore. We do the same thing with molds and autoclaves. Well, the thread morphed more into a 'how to recreate the look'. I now know what Bakelite is and the 'slop' is more or less directions on how to recreate the look using DIY techniques. I have never read anything other than paint, apparently Micarta can be a pretty good substitute if done right. I understand molds, autoclave, vacuum bags etc... I used to deal with fiberglass in my younger days. If anyone out there has made DIY fiberglass Bakelite let's hear it. |
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Originally Posted By bmarshall1: Well, the thread morphed more into a 'how to recreate the look'. I now know what Bakelite is and the 'slop' is more or less directions on how to recreate the look using DIY techniques. I have never read anything other than paint, apparently Micarta can be a pretty good substitute if done right. I understand molds, autoclave, vacuum bags etc... I used to deal with fiberglass in my younger days. If anyone out there has made DIY fiberglass Bakelite let's hear it. Having worked with fiberglass in your younger days means nothing in the world of composites. Fiberglass is just that, glass fiber. If you've ever done a layup with a phenolic resin you've basically done "bakelite". It's not really that hard. Anything you do with glass fiber and an epoxy resin is likely stronger. I used to do a lot of work with composites. Have a kevlar and carbon weave frisbee I made when I was bored. Made some rockets, bike parts, etc. It's not rocket science and people have given you better info than the slop even before you went to the slop. Slop never gave any directions. It's missing the entire recipe. Just gave a sloppy outline written in crayon. |
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Originally Posted By lilMAC25: Someone is making Fakelite A1 furniture (not LuthAR). I see it advertised on Insta all the time. Cheating Death Customs https://www.instagram.com/p/DbI4GZIFqXQ/?img_index=1&igsh=NnA1aXRueG00YXA4 |