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Posted: 9/8/2024 3:06:39 PM EST
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MrMackey: Yes they seemed to have a bunch of stuff! I'm new to the bambu world but I've made the trip there a few times to build some gaming pc's. The staff there is absolutely incredible every single time. Set up time! https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/587392/IMG_2113_jpeg-3316495.JPG |
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Posted: 9/8/2024 4:11:52 PM EST
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MrMackey: I’ve noticed that! Thank you!! I've had good luck with the "flat" versions from user "AU3D" - I've tried fuzzy skin and regular and they both work exceptionally well. |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 9/8/2024 5:32:11 PM EST
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MrMackey: I’ve noticed that! Thank you!! Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MrMackey: Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: You'll need to print rings for your cardboard spools more than likely. I’ve noticed that! Thank you!! Next will be spool dryers. The S4 is an excellent unit. I have 2. |
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Posted: 9/8/2024 5:58:24 PM EST
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: You'll need to print rings for your cardboard spools more than likely. What's the downside to running the carboard? I printed some rings for my polymaker and it fit some rolls and didnt fit others, so ive been running with a mix of them that have the rings and some that dont. I haven't been able to discern a different in performance between either of them in the ams. |
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Posted: 9/8/2024 6:06:06 PM EST
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Keekleberrys: What's the downside to running the carboard? I printed some rings for my polymaker and it fit some rolls and didnt fit others, so ive been running with a mix of them that have the rings and some that dont. I haven't been able to discern a different in performance between either of them in the ams. As they roll in the AMS, the cardboard reels eventually produce a bunch of cardboard dust that gets into the mechanism and causes issues. |
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Posted: 9/8/2024 6:25:03 PM EST
[Last Edit: Keekleberrys]
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ParityError: As they roll in the AMS, the cardboard reels eventually produce a bunch of cardboard dust that gets into the mechanism and causes issues. i havent printed a full roll of the cardboard stuff yet so i guess i just havent printed enough to have had a problem yet. guess im printing rings when im done printing out my snapon drawer organizers i made while practicing in fusion 360. |
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Posted: 9/8/2024 6:42:56 PM EST
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Keekleberrys: i havent printed a full roll of the cardboard stuff yet so i guess i just havent printed enough to have had a problem yet. guess im printing rings when im done printing out my snapon drawer organizers i made while practicing in fusion 360. Issue is three fold. First, most of the time cardboard spools don't get enough traction to retract filament properly, especially as the roll gets lighter. Second, dust build up. Third, the cardboard can actually wear a groove in the rubber from the slipping. |
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Posted: 9/8/2024 7:35:05 PM EST
[Last Edit: Keekleberrys]
[#8]
are there any non fiber reinforced nylons that are decent?
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Posted: 9/9/2024 1:15:03 AM EST
[Last Edit: chevrofreak]
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Keekleberrys: are there any non fiber reinforced nylons that are decent? I am a big fan of Overture Easy Nylon. Create your own print profile using their recommendations and it will print very well. It is some of the most sturdy filament I have ever used, so try not to need supports as they will be impossible to remove. |
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Posted: 9/9/2024 9:05:09 AM EST
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: I've had good luck with the "flat" versions from user "AU3D" - I've tried fuzzy skin and regular and they both work exceptionally well. Thanks brother! I printed them out yesterday while I was smoking some meat on the Traeger haha. I’m printing a poop bucket right now and these clipped onto the spools pretty well. Lesson learned and microcenter suckered me in with a sale on pla when I was there. I’ll probably stick with some plastic spools here on out if I can. My wife opened her mouth about the printer and all the girls in her office want shit printed out. Ass, filiament, or grass….i don’t print for free I told her. She wasn’t amused.  Attached File |
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Posted: 9/9/2024 8:41:38 PM EST
[Last Edit: Keekleberrys]
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By chevrofreak: I am a big fan of Overture Easy Nylon. Create your own print profile using their recommendations and it will print very well. It is some of the most sturdy filament I have ever used, so try not to need supports as they will be impossible to remove. appears to be sold out on their website. amazon says wont ship till end of October or early November. Matterhackers has some of their own brand thats but its in .75kg spools and its more expensive than the GF/CF reinforced stuff from bambu |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 9/10/2024 8:38:43 AM EST
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By MrMackey: Thanks brother! I printed them out yesterday while I was smoking some meat on the Traeger haha. I’m printing a poop bucket right now and these clipped onto the spools pretty well. Lesson learned and microcenter suckered me in with a sale on pla when I was there. I’ll probably stick with some plastic spools here on out if I can. My wife opened her mouth about the printer and all the girls in her office want shit printed out. Ass, filiament, or grass….i don’t print for free I told her. She wasn’t amused. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/587392/IMG_2147_jpeg-3317504.JPG Is this GD? Pics of wife with coworker girls not loading. |
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Posted: 9/10/2024 9:18:17 AM EST
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Keekleberrys: appears to be sold out on their website. amazon says wont ship till end of October or early November. Matterhackers has some of their own brand thats but its in .75kg spools and its more expensive than the GF/CF reinforced stuff from bambu I'm not sure why, but everyone was out. I have 4 rolls pre-ordered through Amazon. I am using it to print a monocore suppressor. |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 9/10/2024 10:03:53 AM EST
[#14]
So I just ordered the P1S combo and browsing around, it looks like I might be able to use carbon reinforced filament. Is that true? Will I need any upgrades to make that happen?
I can't wait, I've had an Ender 5 por for a while now and this looks like a nice upgrade. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 9/10/2024 10:11:40 AM EST
[Last Edit: Gage]
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By madwis15: So I just ordered the P1S combo and browsing around, it looks like I might be able to use carbon reinforced filament. Is that true? Will I need any upgrades to make that happen? I can't wait, I've had an Ender 5 for a while now and this looks like a nice upgrade. You'll need to get the hardened steel hotend (or complete hot end) .4mm or larger, and the hardened steel extruder gear assembly Extruder gear assembly Hotends |
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WI, USA
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Posted: 9/10/2024 10:56:51 AM EST
[Last Edit: madwis15]
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Gage: You'll need to get the hardened steel hotend (or complete hot end) .4mm or larger, and the hardened steel extruder gear assembly Extruder gear assembly Hotends Thanks, I did order the hardened steel hot end along with the printer. I guess I'll order the Extruder too. What kind of things do you typically print with the carbon anyways? What CF filaments do you normally use? |
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Posted: 9/11/2024 6:12:21 PM EST
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By madwis15: Thanks, I did order the hardened steel hot end along with the printer. I guess I'll order the Extruder too. What kind of things do you typically print with the carbon anyways? What CF filaments do you normally use? I haven't messed with any of the Nylon CF filaments yet, but I'm sure I'll experiment soon. If only to see if I can get good prints. |
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MT, USA
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Posted: 9/13/2024 12:31:26 PM EST
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By gtfoxy: There are screen upgrades. Here ya go.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9p361eqZmo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Av64TRznlIGot my Xtouch set up a few days ago. It is a significant improvement over the stock P1S screen. When I ordered the screen it was on sale for less than $4.00 with free shipping and it was delivered in about week which is impressive coming from AliExpress. I printed the Teaching Tech case from the video. 10/10 would recommend if you want a touch screen for not a whole lot of money. Super simple to get set up. It boggles my mind that this works as well as it does and costed less than $4.00. They aren't on sale for dirt cheap anymore but still only cost about $12. I wish I would have bought a few of them just to have a couple extra for other projects. |
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AL, USA
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Posted: 9/13/2024 8:09:14 PM EST
[Last Edit: memsu]
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By madwis15: So I just ordered the P1S combo and browsing around, it looks like I might be able to use carbon reinforced filament. Is that true? Will I need any upgrades to make that happen? I can't wait, I've had an Ender 5 por for a while now and this looks like a nice upgrade. You aren't supposed to use carbon reinforced filament within the AMS though. Have to use external spool holder for that or print from a dry box. Your Ender 5 is still an awesome printer. You can convert your Ender 5 to a Zero G Merc 1 with a Rapido hotend and print PLA/PETG faster than the P1S. Especially if you put a big nozzle on it. Print all the ABS parts for it on the P1S as the first big project on it. They have conversion kits out now with the hardware you need. It's actually turned out to be one of my more reliable printers. https://zerog.one/  Joining The 6 Minute Club! ZeroG Mercury One Hydra Speed Benchy |
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Posted: 9/13/2024 11:22:22 PM EST
[#20]
sometimes im super confused. the black asa bambu labs filament i had to fucking pry off the print bed using the normal profile and damn near damaged the bed. and then i got some polymaker olive brown asa and i had to crank the bed temp up to 110c to get it to even complete a benchy
guess thats why its a tinkering sport. |
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Posted: 9/14/2024 12:50:35 AM EST
[#21]
I run PETG and PLA CF filaments through my AMS almost daily, No issues thus far.
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WI, USA
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Posted: 9/14/2024 11:15:21 AM EST
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Midyew5959: Got my Xtouch set up a few days ago. It is a significant improvement over the stock P1S screen. When I ordered the screen it was on sale for less than $4.00 with free shipping and it was delivered in about week which is impressive coming from AliExpress. I printed the Teaching Tech case from the video. 10/10 would recommend if you want a touch screen for not a whole lot of money. Super simple to get set up. It boggles my mind that this works as well as it does and costed less than $4.00. They aren't on sale for dirt cheap anymore but still only cost about $12. I wish I would have bought a few of them just to have a couple extra for other projects. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Midyew5959: Originally Posted By gtfoxy: There are screen upgrades. Here ya go. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9p361eqZmo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Av64TRznlIGot my Xtouch set up a few days ago. It is a significant improvement over the stock P1S screen. When I ordered the screen it was on sale for less than $4.00 with free shipping and it was delivered in about week which is impressive coming from AliExpress. I printed the Teaching Tech case from the video. 10/10 would recommend if you want a touch screen for not a whole lot of money. Super simple to get set up. It boggles my mind that this works as well as it does and costed less than $4.00. They aren't on sale for dirt cheap anymore but still only cost about $12. I wish I would have bought a few of them just to have a couple extra for other projects. Didn’t realize they were that cheap. Cool. |
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Posted: 9/18/2024 8:11:18 PM EST
[Last Edit: delemorte]
[#23]
Finally decided to try support materials and how to set it up in bambu studio.
WTF was I waiting for. That shits awesome!!! The parts with supports were smoother than what was sitting on the plate and peeled right off. Zero hassles.  Attached File Attached Filehttps://imgur.com/a/how-why-to-print-with-support-interface-material-DhoQgtV |
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Posted: 9/19/2024 6:10:12 PM EST
[#24]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By delemorte: Finally decided to try support materials and how to set it up in bambu studio. WTF was I waiting for. That shits awesome!!! The parts with supports were smoother than what was sitting on the plate and peeled right off. Zero hassles. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/127073/1000009183_jpg-3326157.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/127073/1000009182_jpg-3326158.JPG https://imgur.com/a/how-why-to-print-with-support-interface-material-DhoQgtV Or, use PLA as a support for PETG and vice versa, they don't stick well to each other. |
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Posted: 9/20/2024 7:15:10 AM EST
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Saker13: You should try the Bambu PVA support filament. After printing, put the print in some water and the PVA disolves. Or, use PLA as a support for PETG and vice versa, they don't stick well to each other. I've seen the dissolvable stuff and am now considering it. I had considered petg but was worried about temp differences and what not.. but the purpose built support is super sweet. Regret not trying it out previously |
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Posted: 9/20/2024 7:49:34 AM EST
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By delemorte: I've seen the dissolvable stuff and am now considering it. I had considered petg but was worried about temp differences and what not.. but the purpose built support is super sweet. Regret not trying it out previously Don't bother with PVA unless you need it dissolvable specifically. Use PETG for PLA and PLA for PETG. I do this literally all the time. The purge sequence needs to be long to get proper layer adhesion but that gives plenty of time for temp difference. I've used this technique extensively, and it works perfectly. Set top interface distance to zero, and top interface spacing to zero. Makes a perfect overhang every time. This is yellow PETG with gray PLA as the interface material. Pic taken at the end of the interfacing top layer. Here is the finished product, with the center surface supported by the gray PLA in the first Pic. It's very smooth and evenly textured without any drooping or gapping.   
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Posted: 9/20/2024 10:06:32 AM EST
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Don't bother with PVA unless you need it dissolvable specifically. Use PETG for PLA and PLA for PETG. I do this literally all the time. The purge sequence needs to be long to get proper layer adhesion but that gives plenty of time for temp difference. I've used this technique extensively, and it works perfectly. Set top interface distance to zero, and top interface spacing to zero. Makes a perfect overhang every time. This is yellow PETG with gray PLA as the interface material. Pic taken at the end of the interfacing top layer. Here is the finished product, with the center surface supported by the gray PLA in the first Pic. It's very smooth and evenly textured without any drooping or gapping. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000012396-3327371.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000012397-3323957.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000012398-3323956.jpg Very cool. Thank you |
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Posted: 9/21/2024 9:44:11 AM EST
[#28]
I'm considering ditching my Ender 5 and going Bambu, but my printer area is relegated to the basement so I'm worried the AMS's dessicant won't keep up with the moisture. The dehumidifier is set to 35% and runs on and off, right now I run all of my prints with the filament in a food dehydrator at 54C for the entirety of the print, with bowden tube all the way to the direct drive motor. New rolls get 12+ hours of dehydration before they go into sealed storage.
Choice would be P1S or X1C, either with AMS. Kharn |
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Posted: 9/21/2024 10:13:28 AM EST
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kharn: I'm considering ditching my Ender 5 and going Bambu, but my printer area is relegated to the basement so I'm worried the AMS's dessicant won't keep up with the moisture. The dehumidifier is set to 35% and runs on and off, right now I run all of my prints with the filament in a food dehydrator at 54C for the entirety of the print, with bowden tube all the way to the direct drive motor. New rolls get 12+ hours of dehydration before they go into sealed storage. Choice would be P1S or X1C, either with AMS. Kharn It will do fine. Only watch out is PLA gets very brittle when it gets wet so if you leave a roll in there awhile the portion in the tube gets wet and will break off in the AMS. Not fun. Thats my only real complaint honestly. Otherwise it's great. OH, don't microwave ASA dessicant containers. Learned that the hard way. 
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Posted: 9/21/2024 10:15:56 AM EST
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kharn: I'm considering ditching my Ender 5 and going Bambu, but my printer area is relegated to the basement so I'm worried the AMS's dessicant won't keep up with the moisture. The dehumidifier is set to 35% and runs on and off, right now I run all of my prints with the filament in a food dehydrator at 54C for the entirety of the print, with bowden tube all the way to the direct drive motor. New rolls get 12+ hours of dehydration before they go into sealed storage. Choice would be P1S or X1C, either with AMS. Kharn I’m planning on moving up from my ender 3 if there’s a Black Friday sale that seems good. X1C with AMS and I need to figure out what other things that they offer to add on when I do it. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 9/21/2024 6:54:18 PM EST
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By APPARITION: I’m planning on moving up from my ender 3 if there’s a Black Friday sale that seems good. X1C with AMS and I need to figure out what other things that they offer to add on when I do it. Do you need the X1C? The P1S combo is 849 now, +29 ship. I don't know if it goes lower. |
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Posted: 9/21/2024 11:52:32 PM EST
[Last Edit: Keekleberrys]
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Don't bother with PVA unless you need it dissolvable specifically. Use PETG for PLA and PLA for PETG. I do this literally all the time. The purge sequence needs to be long to get proper layer adhesion but that gives plenty of time for temp difference. I've used this technique extensively, and it works perfectly. Set top interface distance to zero, and top interface spacing to zero. Makes a perfect overhang every time. This is yellow PETG with gray PLA as the interface material. Pic taken at the end of the interfacing top layer. Here is the finished product, with the center surface supported by the gray PLA in the first Pic. It's very smooth and evenly textured without any drooping or gapping. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000012396-3327371.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000012397-3323957.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/1000012398-3323956.jpg i have had bad luck with support materials at the interface with smaller tree supports like on the trigger guards and what not on glocks, goes everywhere and almost starts a spaghetti. but then i have great results with it on large parts where teh support interface is very large. its weird because i dont have problems if i just use the same material as support, i just have problems removing it. any tips? |
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Posted: 9/22/2024 12:11:27 AM EST
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Keekleberrys: i have had bad luck with support materials at the interface with smaller tree supports like on the trigger guards and what not on glocks, goes everywhere and almost starts a spaghetti. but then i have great results with it on large parts where teh support interface is very large. its weird because i dont have problems if i just use the same material as support, i just have problems removing it. any tips? I'd have to see the part print settings but common issues are support trees breaking off. Make sure you get all tree trunks on the same brim field if possible. That helps a ton. Then limit interface to two layers, and only use the opposite material on those two layers. That allows for two filament changes only. If you want to give an failed print's settings I could help troubleshoot. One more issue that could be caused by smaller prints is inadequate layer time. Heat retention causes curling. Curling causes raised edges and raised edges cause crashes or broken supports. |
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Posted: 9/22/2024 12:13:23 AM EST
[Last Edit: Keekleberrys]
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: I'd have to see the part print settings but common issues are support trees breaking off. Make sure you get all tree trunks on the same brim field if possible. That helps a ton. Then limit interface to two layers, and only use the opposite material on those two layers. That allows for two filament changes only. If you want to give an failed print's settings I could help troubleshoot. One more issue that could be caused by smaller prints is inadequate layer time. Heat retention causes curling. Curling causes raised edges and raised edges cause crashes or broken supports. that makes sense because ive been fighting warping. its a learning experience for sure! ill post my print settings next time i have a problem. thanks |
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Posted: 9/22/2024 8:05:54 AM EST
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: It will do fine. Only watch out is PLA gets very brittle when it gets wet so if you leave a roll in there awhile the portion in the tube gets wet and will break off in the AMS. Not fun. Thats my only real complaint honestly. Otherwise it's great. OH, don't microwave ASA dessicant containers. Learned that the hard way. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By Kharn: I'm considering ditching my Ender 5 and going Bambu, but my printer area is relegated to the basement so I'm worried the AMS's dessicant won't keep up with the moisture. The dehumidifier is set to 35% and runs on and off, right now I run all of my prints with the filament in a food dehydrator at 54C for the entirety of the print, with bowden tube all the way to the direct drive motor. New rolls get 12+ hours of dehydration before they go into sealed storage. Choice would be P1S or X1C, either with AMS. Kharn It will do fine. Only watch out is PLA gets very brittle when it gets wet so if you leave a roll in there awhile the portion in the tube gets wet and will break off in the AMS. Not fun. Thats my only real complaint honestly. Otherwise it's great. OH, don't microwave ASA dessicant containers. Learned that the hard way. I don't leave filament out in the open, I use five gallon buckets with the spin-top lids and desiccant inside to store my open rolls so if I'm not starting another print within the next hour, I take the spool off and put it back in the bucket. I think I'm heading to Microcenter today, wife and one kid have tickets to a show so I just have to bribe the other kid to not be a menace. Kharn |
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Posted: 9/22/2024 10:53:28 AM EST
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ctfish15: Do you need the X1C? The P1S combo is 849 now, +29 ship. I don't know if it goes lower. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By ctfish15: Originally Posted By APPARITION: I’m planning on moving up from my ender 3 if there’s a Black Friday sale that seems good. X1C with AMS and I need to figure out what other things that they offer to add on when I do it. Do you need the X1C? The P1S combo is 849 now, +29 ship. I don't know if it goes lower. Probably don’t need it but you never know and I’d rather go all in. |
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Posted: 9/22/2024 11:30:02 AM EST
[Last Edit: -Obsessed-]
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By APPARITION: Probably don’t need it but you never know and I’d rather go all in. Go all in. It's worth it. One of these days we will convince Rat to go all in too. He still needs to build his Voron. Bambu will probably release a large format before he finishes it.
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Posted: 9/22/2024 8:23:24 PM EST
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Go all in. It's worth it. One of these days we will convince Rat to go all in too. He still needs to build his Voron. Bambu will probably release a large format before he finishes it. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By APPARITION: Probably don’t need it but you never know and I’d rather go all in. Go all in. It's worth it. One of these days we will convince Rat to go all in too. He still needs to build his Voron. Bambu will probably release a large format before he finishes it. The filament calibration feature was what made me go for the X1C vs the P1 series. Sure I might have gone 3 months without changing anything on my Ender if I was printing stuff with the same filament for the same hobby, but when things went wrong or I wanted to switch applications, it was 2-3 weeks of pure misery getting new settings dialed in. I hit Microcenter this afternoon, got home in time for dinner, ate while reading the quick start booklet, and had it printing the six piece toy that comes loaded into memory while the toys were being put away before bed. Holy crap does it make some weird noises during calibration and vibrate the hell out of my crappy, sheet metal Harbor Freight tool stand, I need a heavy duty workbench for it. Kharn |
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Posted: 9/22/2024 9:46:03 PM EST
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kharn: The filament calibration feature was what made me go for the X1C vs the P1 series. Sure I might have gone 3 months without changing anything on my Ender if I was printing stuff with the same filament for the same hobby, but when things went wrong or I wanted to switch applications, it was 2-3 weeks of pure misery getting new settings dialed in. I hit Microcenter this afternoon, got home in time for dinner, ate while reading the quick start booklet, and had it printing the six piece toy that comes loaded into memory while the toys were being put away before bed. Holy crap does it make some weird noises during calibration and vibrate the hell out of my crappy, sheet metal Harbor Freight tool stand, I need a heavy duty workbench for it. Kharn I ended up building a bench into the wall of the basement. Now it just makes weird noises throughout the whole house. 
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MT, USA
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Posted: 9/22/2024 9:53:05 PM EST
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kharn: The filament calibration feature was what made me go for the X1C vs the P1 series. Sure I might have gone 3 months without changing anything on my Ender if I was printing stuff with the same filament for the same hobby, but when things went wrong or I wanted to switch applications, it was 2-3 weeks of pure misery getting new settings dialed in. I hit Microcenter this afternoon, got home in time for dinner, ate while reading the quick start booklet, and had it printing the six piece toy that comes loaded into memory while the toys were being put away before bed. Holy crap does it make some weird noises during calibration and vibrate the hell out of my crappy, sheet metal Harbor Freight tool stand, I need a heavy duty workbench for it. Kharn Exact same thing. My E3's were dialed in to run Inland PLA+ at that was all I could ever do. Had a shelf full of other filaments I couldn't use. Once the X1C showed up I was able to burn through everything. Various PLA's PETG's ABS, TPU's. Sealed, open, wet, old...etc It really made the hobby enjoyable and fun again. |
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Posted: 9/23/2024 4:56:02 AM EST
[Last Edit: Kharn]
[#41]
It shits on the floor more than a toddler.
Kharn |
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Posted: 9/24/2024 8:22:40 PM EST
[#42]
Back in June I put the Hydra Pro mod in my AMS. It's been reliable and a worthwhile mod.
Humebeam on printables designed it. Basically, you print new parts for the spool holder and replace the injection molded parts. The electronics and such from the original transfer over. Not very difficult to do at all. Printed parts are available from Matterhackers and Voxelab I think. But you've got a 3d printer right there. I printed everything in ABS. The main benefit is that Atomic spools work way better. They're on the larger side both in width and diameter, plus Atomic seems to fill the spools to the brim which would rub against the feeder causing jams. light, nearly empty cardboard spools jump around, especially if the filament is curled tightly against the hub. |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 9/26/2024 9:30:11 AM EST
[#43]
First, a big thank you to all who have posted their experiences here. I'm currently planning an upgrade and was considering the K1 vs Prusa XL and P1S/X1C. This made it easy to compare based on the real world experience of others (yes I read all 15 pages). So now I have a P1S combo on order to replace my first 3D printer and it's going to be great not spending an hour preparing to do a 2 hour print.
Jim |
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IA, USA
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Posted: 9/26/2024 11:18:53 AM EST
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Gage: You'll need to get the hardened steel hotend (or complete hot end) .4mm or larger, and the hardened steel extruder gear assembly Extruder gear assembly Hotends Just a heads up - the complete hot end is well worth the extra $ 10,000 hours spread across 5 machines each one has needed a new hot end, and two have needed hot end cooling fans. It's well worth the extra $8 to have it assembled with the hotend, heater, thermistor, and cooling fan. |
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IA, USA
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Posted: 9/26/2024 11:35:31 AM EST
[#45]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kharn: I'm considering ditching my Ender 5 and going Bambu, but my printer area is relegated to the basement so I'm worried the AMS's dessicant won't keep up with the moisture. The dehumidifier is set to 35% and runs on and off, right now I run all of my prints with the filament in a food dehydrator at 54C for the entirety of the print, with bowden tube all the way to the direct drive motor. New rolls get 12+ hours of dehydration before they go into sealed storage. Choice would be P1S or X1C, either with AMS. Kharn I have them in my unconditioned shop space - we have had the doors open from April - September July and August in Iowa are brutal for humidity ZERO moisture issues inside the AMS - but a spool of filament only lasts 2 days. I do keep them sealed in the package and only put a second roll in the AMS if its going to switch mid print. |
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Posted: 9/26/2024 11:37:49 AM EST
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By stewie97: Just a heads up - the complete hot end is well worth the extra $ 10,000 hours spread across 5 machines each one has needed a new hot end, and two have needed hot end cooling fans. It's well worth the extra $8 to have it assembled with the hotend, heater, thermistor, and cooling fan. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By stewie97: Originally Posted By Gage: You'll need to get the hardened steel hotend (or complete hot end) .4mm or larger, and the hardened steel extruder gear assembly Extruder gear assembly Hotends Just a heads up - the complete hot end is well worth the extra $ 10,000 hours spread across 5 machines each one has needed a new hot end, and two have needed hot end cooling fans. It's well worth the extra $8 to have it assembled with the hotend, heater, thermistor, and cooling fan. Buy the pack with the 0.2, 0.4, and 0.6 complete hot ends while you're at it. You can make a roll disappear even faster with the 0.6, or make ridiculously detailed prints with the 0.2. There are printable boxes to hold your spares and the tools. Kharn |
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Posted: 9/26/2024 12:10:40 PM EST
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kharn: Buy the pack with the 0.2, 0.4, and 0.6 complete hot ends while you're at it. You can make a roll disappear even faster with the 0.6, or make ridiculously detailed prints with the 0.2. There are printable boxes to hold your spares and the tools. Kharn Better yet, buy the Slice Engineering hotend and just swap nozzles. 
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IA, USA
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Posted: 9/26/2024 1:19:29 PM EST
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Kharn: Buy the pack with the 0.2, 0.4, and 0.6 complete hot ends while you're at it. You can make a roll disappear even faster with the 0.6, or make ridiculously detailed prints with the 0.2. There are printable boxes to hold your spares and the tools. Kharn for the product I print and sell I only need the .4 |
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Posted: 9/26/2024 5:55:27 PM EST
[#49]
had my first real failure last night. the poop chute got clogged up and somehow the front cover of the print head popped off stopping the machine maybe 6 hours into a 11 hour print. this was at 2am so I didn't find it until the morning and with the bed cooled the parts were just sitting there with no grip to the print bed. tried to clear it without disturbing the print bed but that wasn't happening. any tips for makeing sure the poops drop clear? i have a wrap around poop shoot I printed and I cleared it before this print started. this is my 2nd time doing a long multi color print. it takes SO much longer swapping colors a billion times. I really try to avoid multi color if I can.
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Posted: 9/26/2024 7:38:21 PM EST
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By slappomatt: had my first real failure last night. the poop chute got clogged up and somehow the front cover of the print head popped off stopping the machine maybe 6 hours into a 11 hour print. this was at 2am so I didn't find it until the morning and with the bed cooled the parts were just sitting there with no grip to the print bed. tried to clear it without disturbing the print bed but that wasn't happening. any tips for makeing sure the poops drop clear? i have a wrap around poop shoot I printed and I cleared it before this print started. this is my 2nd time doing a long multi color print. it takes SO much longer swapping colors a billion times. I really try to avoid multi color if I can. Print a better poop tray that will overflow to the floor instead of back up inside the machine? Or upgrade to the X1C, it has a poop overflow detector. Kharn |
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