User Panel
Posted: 10/30/2024 12:43:56 PM EST
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[#1]
Fuel line joint disconnects?
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[Last Edit: Bogdan]
[#2]
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[#3]
Tie rods
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[#4]
Is your car brave enough?
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Preferred pronoun: MARINE
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[#5]
Inner tie rods.
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[#6]
Originally Posted By wildearp: Is your car brave enough? View Quote The real question is is tough enough to withstand my incompetence. No he real question is why the fuck did the stupid lazy worthless fucks at Ford only put flats on one side of the steering rack forcing me to take off both wheels and repalce both bellows to change my inner tie rod on the passenger side only? |
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[#7]
Inner tie rods. Usually not too bad.
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[#8]
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[#9]
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[#10]
Tie rods weren't bad on my 2012 mustang but the ball joints.... never again. I'll replace the the control arm with the ball joints next time I have to do any.
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“Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.”
— Benjamin Franklin |
[#11]
Count the turns taking them off. Mine were pretty close when taking it to get a alignment. Made the drive to the alignment shop less interesting.
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“Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.”
— Benjamin Franklin |
[Last Edit: jos51700]
[#12]
Inner tie rods. Also works on fal barrels
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[Last Edit: wildearp]
[#13]
Originally Posted By Bogdan: The real question is is tough enough to withstand my incompetence. No he real question is why the fuck did the stupid lazy worthless fucks at Ford only put flats on one side of the steering rack forcing me to take off both wheels and repalce both bellows to change my inner tie rod on the passenger side only? View Quote (I have done this several times) |
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Preferred pronoun: MARINE
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[#14]
Originally Posted By wildearp: Did you price a re-manufactured rack? That is how I did it, but not on a Ford. I have a high quality parts supplier. (I have done this several times) View Quote Yes and I would rather buy a used oem or pay a lot more for new oem. I had too many paper weights that were "rebuilt". Not worth the risk. I'm kinda tempted to use a chain wrench to hold the rack in just on one side but I'm worried that it might mar the rack and take out internal seals. There is no flats on the side of the rack that I am fixing. Any suggestions for a tool/strap to keep it from rotating? |
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[#15]
Originally Posted By Bogdan: Yes and I would rather buy a used oem or pay a lot more for new oem. I had too many paper weights that were "rebuilt". Not worth the risk. I'm kinda tempted to use a chain wrench to hold the rack in just on one side but I'm worried that it might mar the rack and take out internal seals. There is no flats on the side of the rack that I am fixing. Any suggestions for a tool/strap to keep it from rotating? View Quote Yeah, I went with a junkyard rack when I needed one for my BMW. Everything I could find on the remans was not good. |
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[#16]
Originally Posted By Bogdan: Yes and I would rather buy a used oem or pay a lot more for new oem. I had too many paper weights that were "rebuilt". Not worth the risk. I'm kinda tempted to use a chain wrench to hold the rack in just on one side but I'm worried that it might mar the rack and take out internal seals. There is no flats on the side of the rack that I am fixing. Any suggestions for a tool/strap to keep it from rotating? View Quote Weld the inner socket and then the nut to the threads. Use the welded nut to break it loose. |
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[#17]
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[Last Edit: number40Fan]
[#18]
The rack that the inner tie rod threads onto won't spin.
Since you said you don't have flats on the stock inner tie rod, you can weld the joint of the inner tie rod as well as the jam nut. Use the jam nut to break the inner tie rod from the rack. ETA: Let me know the year and model of your Ford, and I'll see if they do recommend something else. |
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[#20]
Gotcha now!
You'll be fine without holding the rack on the other side. |
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[#21]
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[#22]
Originally Posted By Bogdan: Wouldn't it twist and casue all sorts of issues? View Quote No you will be fine. I usually even git them a quick ugga dug with the impact. One quick blip to break them loos then they just spin out by hand. It actualy does less damage to the inner tie rod tool as well. Just be sure that once you get the tool on the inner tie rod and all lined up you pull out on it so it doesnt slip off. |
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[#23]
Originally Posted By Goostoff: No you will be fine. I usually even git them a quick ugga dug with the impact. One quick blip to break them loos then they just spin out by hand. It actualy does less damage to the inner tie rod tool as well. Just be sure that once you get the tool on the inner tie rod and all lined up you pull out on it so it doesnt slip off. View Quote Ah! Thank you! I do have one of those brand new fancy 1/2 M18 ugga duggas that thing is a BEAST. Between that monster and my air hammer working on cars got easier. |
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