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Posted: 11/17/2021 4:41:45 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ashraam: Nice. Even if you have to add a bit of weight it looks like a pretty easy fix. The right balance of weight and angle is giving us trouble. |
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Posted: 11/17/2021 11:47:31 PM EDT
[#2]
Success! We had to change the angle of the slide a bit.....like 3x, and had to shave off a bit of material on the flap to keep it from binding when it was fully up, but this seems to work. We added a bit of weight to the slide.
Now we have to make a duplicate for the opposite wing.  F-22 Raptor flap test |
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Posted: 11/18/2021 8:47:54 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By guns762: Success! We had to change the angle of the slide a bit.....like 3x, and had to shave off a bit of material on the flap to keep it from binding when it was fully up, but this seems to work. We added a bit of weight to the slide. Now we have to make a duplicate for the opposite wing.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abDN0EwDDXoI like the snap of the hat after the success of the test! 
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Posted: 11/18/2021 9:48:09 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By guns762: Success! We had to change the angle of the slide a bit.....like 3x, and had to shave off a bit of material on the flap to keep it from binding when it was fully up, but this seems to work. We added a bit of weight to the slide. Now we have to make a duplicate for the opposite wing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abDN0EwDDXo
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Posted: 11/18/2021 10:03:38 AM EDT
[#5]
 "Phantom of the Raptor" - F22 Filmed at 1000FPS |
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Posted: 11/19/2021 10:24:13 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryAwesome video.  |
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Posted: 11/19/2021 10:35:51 AM EDT
[Last Edit: guns762]
[#7]
Update 11/19
This was a pretty funny moment. This young man has been a pretty solid member of our Raptor Crew this year, and somehow he had not heard that his buddy, Team Leader Senate Page, was going to not be here next semester. They were talking about what Art classes they had next semester and how many they could get. He wanted to know if his lined up with our Senate Page. Our Team Leader has been a little coy and shy about telling other students about his acceptance to the Page program, and kept answering cryptically. He was asked, "you don't have any art classes next semester..../???????? " He was told no. After several minutes of what the hell questions and why the hell not comments...... I had to let it slip that our Team Leader was not going to be here at all next semester. I didn't say why, just he wasn't going to be here. After several minutes of this back and forth, we finally told him.  He legitimately got upset at this revelation.  We of course, were laughing, and I was trying to get pictures of this moment.  He got better, but it was pretty hysterical. There were the questions, of "how are we going to get this done now?" I told him, he was going to have to step up and take that leadership role.  One of my muralists.   We spent much time yesterday adding foam to the fuselage edges, heading back to the wing root. Sculpting this is messy work. There is foam everywhere, and all over anyone even close to this. We also managed to kill our shop vac.     Paper mache going on over the foam. This will be sanded down, and more paste applied to get a smoother surface.  Detail work under the bottom of the front of the fuselage, between the intakes.   |
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Posted: 11/19/2021 11:18:49 AM EDT
[#8]
Seeing that art material label instantly brought the smell back of a long-forgotten elementary school art studio.
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Posted: 11/19/2021 6:20:56 PM EDT
[#9]
Hot knife the foam for less mess. Or is it too stinky when melted?
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Posted: 11/19/2021 7:20:00 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FB41: Hot knife the foam for less mess. Or is it too stinky when melted? We used it a bit but there isn't enough ventilation out there to use it much. It's also some concave shapes that makes it less useful is some of those spots. We did use it for some of the bigger slabs. |
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Posted: 11/23/2021 10:41:58 AM EDT
[#11]
Update 11/22
Last update before Thanksgiving Break. We will be back at it next Monday. We were able to cut the corners off of the intakes, and are now using bondo to round them up a bit. The inside corners of the intakes will have to have a bit of Art board glued on to add the look of the curves. That should happen today sometime. We also have the flat panels inside the intakes cut out. They will need to be mounted sometime soon.   We have started skinning parts of the wing. The flaperons and flaps are where we are starting first, then the wing tips. We have the sliding weight being welded up today for the left wing, also. We just got done discussing how we were going to need a second pulley in the "down side" left wing to get the flap to pull up.   The airfield tiers are also doing well. We need to start gluing down the sandbags around the AA emplacement. We are looking for a CAD file for an AA gun. We might use the truck CAD from last year's Liberty Ships.  Downed 109 is just about ready.   |
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Posted: 11/23/2021 3:04:30 PM EDT
[#12]
Looks like you're already having to replace boards?
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Posted: 11/25/2021 9:35:52 AM EDT
[Last Edit: guns762]
[#13]
Thanksgiving Day Update!
I want to wish you all a Happy Thanksgiving, and again thank you all for your support over the last decade with all these projects. I hope you all have a wonderful weekend with your family and friends. My team leader has named you all "The Investors". Others have caught on and you all get brought up quite a bit when we are grabbing pictures. "The Investors expect results!" is a common phrase. We attached the wing again so we could line up the inside edge of the flaperon, and make sure it has the right angle.  There was a rush to get more bondo done on the front 1/3rd of the fueslage. Students who do much of the sanding made sure the bondo boys didn't get too carried away.   It warms my heart when I come out and catch a student so focused on her attention to detail. This young lady is only a sophomore and has become a major player in getting this F22 built.  More to come today. It was a very busy day for us, Tuesday. |
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Posted: 11/25/2021 9:42:23 AM EDT
[#14]
"The Investors"
Hmm... perhaps that could be worked into the shirts for sale. |
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Posted: 11/25/2021 9:49:49 AM EDT
[#15]
Update continued, 11/25
With the bondo and sculpting work in the intakes mostly complete, we moved the Raptor back into the hanger for a bit of work. We want to play with painting the canopy a bit.  We again started working on the top skin in front of the wing edge. Students worked to skin, then trim the edge to the right line above the intake.  Of course, more bondo on the tail fuselage tips.  We wanted to make sure the vents were close for the canopy painting. Base coat going on.  We aren't too sure on the results yet, and there Wil need to be some rework to get our canopy to the level we hope to achieve.  This was all really quick and we didn't get any holographic layers down, or any gold yet. Keep that in mind.   Front of the fuselage is looking pretty good.    |
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Posted: 11/25/2021 9:51:02 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AZNetEng: "The Investors" Hmm... perhaps that could be worked into the shirts for sale. That's a good idea!
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Posted: 11/25/2021 9:54:04 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher: Looks like you're already having to replace boards? Not sure exactly, but we have had to replace a few skin pieces already as things go wrong on instalation. Luckily it's not as expensive as the real thing, but every drawing board(20x30")we use cost about $3.65. I remind them of this every time we screw up.
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Posted: 11/25/2021 10:01:08 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By guns762: Update continued, 11/25 With the bondo and sculpting work in the intakes mostly complete, we moved the Raptor back into the hanger for a bit of work. We want to play with painting the canopy a bit. https://i.imgur.com/0lG7PK7.jpg We again started working on the top skin in front of the wing edge. Students worked to skin, then trim the edge to the right line above the intake. https://i.imgur.com/6yiYPdW.jpg Of course, more bondo on the tail fuselage tips. https://i.imgur.com/kYqUnUO.jpg We wanted to make sure the vents were close for the canopy painting. Base coat going on. https://i.imgur.com/Mz5qJHn.jpg We aren't too sure on the results yet, and there Wil need to be some rework to get our canopy to the level we hope to achieve. https://i.imgur.com/uuiykpH.jpg This was all really quick and we didn't get any holographic layers down, or any gold yet. Keep that in mind. https://i.imgur.com/zw0Ari8.jpg https://i.imgur.com/3s1dZqx.jpg Front of the fuselage is looking pretty good. https://i.imgur.com/d4XdnNE.jpg https://i.imgur.com/LYCuAic.jpg https://i.imgur.com/AIpXkal.jpg |
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Posted: 11/25/2021 10:10:34 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By AZNetEng: That looks pretty good for the level of effort on the canopy. It was a flurry of activity the last hour of the day Tuesday. I was able to talk with the painter a bit and we were basically just experimenting with the paint. It's pretty rough. We found a few voids in the surface that will have to be addressed. These under layers, we think should help give a more translucent look, one we get the gold sprayed. We will see. We probably will do this multiple times, hoping to do better with each variation. |
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Posted: 11/25/2021 1:16:39 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By guns762: Not sure exactly, but we have had to replace a few skin pieces already as things go wrong on instalation. Luckily it's not as expensive as the real thing, but every drawing board(20x30")we use cost about $3.65. I remind them of this every time we screw up. I may have said this before. Reminds me of the high school robotics team. Taking big pieces of aluminum and making small pieces of scrap. The plane is looking good. Happy Thanksgiving to you, your family, and the crew. |
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Posted: 11/25/2021 1:18:48 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By guns762: It was a flurry of activity the last hour of the day Tuesday. I was able to talk with the painter a bit and we were basically just experimenting with the paint. It's pretty rough. We found a few voids in the surface that will have to be addressed. These under layers, we think should help give a more translucent look, one we get the gold sprayed. We will see. We probably will do this multiple times, hoping to do better with each variation. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By guns762: Originally Posted By AZNetEng: That looks pretty good for the level of effort on the canopy. It was a flurry of activity the last hour of the day Tuesday. I was able to talk with the painter a bit and we were basically just experimenting with the paint. It's pretty rough. We found a few voids in the surface that will have to be addressed. These under layers, we think should help give a more translucent look, one we get the gold sprayed. We will see. We probably will do this multiple times, hoping to do better with each variation. Put it on in thin coats and give it a few hours + to dry for every thin coat Otherwise you'll finish and you'll have 1/8" of goo that looks kind of neat but never cures. |
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Posted: 11/25/2021 2:34:27 PM EDT
[Last Edit: backbencher]
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By guns762: This is the board i was speaking of, guns. It looks a mite stressed. It's got a 20-30 year lifespan ahead of it, looking a little weak. Happy Thanksgiving. I'm working away from home right now, isolated in a hotel room b/c of WuFlu, and this thread brings back so many memories as I sit here in my Door Gunner tshirt. ETA: the canopy looks great! |
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Posted: 11/25/2021 3:19:55 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher: This is the board i was speaking of, guns. It looks a mite stressed. It's got a 20-30 year lifespan ahead of it, looking a little weak. Happy Thanksgiving. I'm working away from home right now, isolated in a hotel room b/c of WuFlu, and this thread brings back so many memories as I sit here in my Door Gunner tshirt. ETA: the canopy looks great! The plywood? I can see what you are looking at, but it's all good. The plywood looked like thst before we even cut it. The new tension wire we added really should keep everything sucked together. The skin will also add even more overall strength to the wing. |
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Posted: 11/25/2021 8:09:42 PM EDT
[#24]
For the wall...I got the BFL logo off the 'net listed as a phone background, hopefully just using it here isn't a violation. The figures were also a screen grab, just a quick idea.
 Attached FileMotivational poster;  Attached FileI suck at this stuff |
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Posted: 11/25/2021 8:22:08 PM EDT
[#25]
If you aren't smiling, you're asking for Rivet Duty.
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Posted: 11/25/2021 9:31:27 PM EDT
[Last Edit: brass]
[#26]
One more thing on the canopy: Get a Tube of "Spot glazing putty", it's single stage stuff (one part, just the tube of reddish or grey goo) that you smear over a little scratch or chip in the bondo and it sands off very easily to make it flat again. It's able to be applied a lot more thinly than mixing up a batch of bondo and less wasteful.
Only downside is it can't really be used on bits over a fingernail or ~1/16" deep, it takes too long to dry (20 minutes ish) but you can do that depth in two passes by wiping it in the spot wiping off majority with paper towel or squeegee, then let that dry and apply a second dab to get a little bit more thickness. It sands super easy just a few passes and flat. It's great for things like car door dings or paint chips that can't be feathered in and don't come out entirely with a puller (metal stretches when it dents), and regular build bondo sticks in chunks/blobs 1/8" big or not at all sometimes. It's designed to be fast use, like final inspection before shooting the paint and usually not realized it is needed until the first coat of paint gives you the glossy surface that shows all sorts of nightmare spots that were invisible otherwise. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000AMOEH8 Local store probably has this bondo brand on the shelf, even a Wal-Mart  
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002Q1AHP4 |
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Posted: 11/25/2021 10:09:27 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By armoredman: For the wall...I got the BFL logo off the 'net listed as a phone background, hopefully just using it here isn't a violation. The figures were also a screen grab, just a quick idea. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/360589/Investors_jpg-2181166.JPG Motivational poster; https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/360589/Investors1_jpg-2181171.JPG I suck at this stuff Those. Are. Awesome!!!! I'll get those printed next week. 
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Posted: 11/26/2021 12:15:08 AM EDT
[#28]
Another canopy idea, in case plan B doesn't pan out.
You could try using non-metallic metal painting techniques to make the canopy look reflective gold or silver, without actually needing it to be reflective quality surface. This technique is used a lot by miniatures painters but I know it can be done in other medias as well. An example of what can be done. There's no actual metallic or reflective paint on this mini, just colors:  Attached File |
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Posted: 11/29/2021 12:51:10 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By brass: One more thing on the canopy: Get a Tube of "Spot glazing putty", it's single stage stuff (one part, just the tube of reddish or grey goo) that you smear over a little scratch or chip in the bondo and it sands off very easily to make it flat again. It's able to be applied a lot more thinly than mixing up a batch of bondo and less wasteful. Only downside is it can't really be used on bits over a fingernail or ~1/16" deep, it takes too long to dry (20 minutes ish) but you can do that depth in two passes by wiping it in the spot wiping off majority with paper towel or squeegee, then let that dry and apply a second dab to get a little bit more thickness. It sands super easy just a few passes and flat. It's great for things like car door dings or paint chips that can't be feathered in and don't come out entirely with a puller (metal stretches when it dents), and regular build bondo sticks in chunks/blobs 1/8" big or not at all sometimes. It's designed to be fast use, like final inspection before shooting the paint and usually not realized it is needed until the first coat of paint gives you the glossy surface that shows all sorts of nightmare spots that were invisible otherwise. www.amazon.com/dp/B000AMOEH8 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000AMOEH8 Local store probably has this bondo brand on the shelf, even a Wal-Mart www.amazon.com/dp/B002Q1AHP4 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002Q1AHP4 I"ll look for this. I think I may even have some already.
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Posted: 11/30/2021 3:00:03 PM EDT
[Last Edit: pasquale91]
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By guns762: It was a flurry of activity the last hour of the day Tuesday. I was able to talk with the painter a bit and we were basically just experimenting with the paint. It's pretty rough. We found a few voids in the surface that will have to be addressed. These under layers, we think should help give a more translucent look, one we get the gold sprayed. We will see. We probably will do this multiple times, hoping to do better with each variation. I don't know what kind of paints you've been applying, but in our design studio we used automotive paints exclusively for finished models. Putty-cote was used in place of Bondo over balsa foam or acrylic armatures, sanded to fine, primed, painted, and clear coated. Sanding in-between coats as needed. Now granted, our largest models were nowhere as large as yours, the process is exactly the same. Eta, this was 20 years ago also when I was an Industrial Design student too so there may be better and more cost effective alternatives out there. |
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Posted: 11/30/2021 3:48:36 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By pasquale91: I don't know what kind of paints you've been applying, but in our design studio we used automotive paints exclusively for finished models. Putty-cote was used in place of Bondo over balsa foam or acrylic armatures, sanded to fine, primed, painted, and clear coated. Sanding in-between coats as needed. Now granted, our largest models were nowhere as large as yours, the process is exactly the same. Eta, this was 20 years ago also when I was an Industrial Design student too so there may be better and more cost effective alternatives out there. Probably a good idea. I'm not sure I'll go grab car paint, except for clear coat. I may regret that. I'll explain in a bit. |
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Posted: 11/30/2021 4:17:30 PM EDT
[Last Edit: guns762]
[#32]
Update 11/30
For the canopy, we think we discovered a little happy accident. We began sanding the new layer of bondo applied to cover our little problem areas.  He is wet sanding with 600 grit and as he goes through layers of paint, it give is a pretty decent little organic reflective look. When we add gold over top, we think it might end up being pretty close to what we want. We will probably repaint out layers again, then sand down again before considering what to do next.  Fuselage edge getting a little more refined.   We will begin rounding out some of the corners of the intakes today.  We are also finishing up skinning the second flaperon.  Figuring out the angle that the vertical stabilizers are at is challenging. We are just starting to work on building the frame for these.  This little jig is set up to show us the height of the stabilizers, and the marks on the side show where the tips should end up. From here we were able figure out we needed 15 degrees coming off of the bases of the stabilizers to end up at our marks. 
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Posted: 12/2/2021 1:03:45 AM EDT
[Last Edit: backbencher]
[#33]
It's always a little bit sad to me when the skin begins to go on - the end is in sight - your projects always start w/ such mystery, and now some of the mystery is gone. We can see what it is, and it's almost over except for the flush rivets.
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Posted: 12/2/2021 12:33:22 PM EDT
[#34]
The Investors are waiting - is it riveting time yet?
So very many teeny tiny rivets! 
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Posted: 12/2/2021 1:02:20 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Mak_380: The Investors are waiting - is it riveting time yet? So very many teeny tiny rivets! I asked for a couple posters to be printed, larger than I have access to, but I haven't heard anything yet. 
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Posted: 12/2/2021 1:09:07 PM EDT
[#36]
Update 12/2
Mounting screws are in and our landscape tiers are getting roots and grass details added.   Mural has many more mountains.  Vertical stabilizers are growing. We added a bit more to our jig, so we can work on making sure we end up in the right spot at the end.  Fill, sand, repeat. We are learning what gets us the best results for the look we are hoping for. 
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Posted: 12/2/2021 1:20:51 PM EDT
[#37]
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Posted: 12/2/2021 1:39:17 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By redoubt: This is kind of how I envision the "Investors" of ARFCOM watching this thread. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/74363/council_png-2189216.JPG That seems about right!
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Posted: 12/2/2021 1:45:05 PM EDT
[#39]
And I struggle to build bookcases (which in theory should be simple).
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Posted: 12/2/2021 4:53:44 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By guns762: Update 11/30 For the canopy, we think we discovered a little happy accident. We began sanding the new layer of bondo applied to cover our little problem areas. https://i.imgur.com/HmvK5RJ.jpg He is wet sanding with 600 grit and as he goes through layers of paint, it give is a pretty decent little organic reflective look. When we add gold over top, we think it might end up being pretty close to what we want. We will probably repaint out layers again, then sand down again before considering what to do next. https://i.imgur.com/dODHxA2.jpg Fuselage edge getting a little more refined. https://i.imgur.com/ZA6tLBJ.jpg https://i.imgur.com/83TeD7H.jpg We will begin rounding out some of the corners of the intakes today. https://i.imgur.com/fX5kzyC.jpg We are also finishing up skinning the second flaperon. https://i.imgur.com/9rzUNjA.jpg Figuring out the angle that the vertical stabilizers are at is challenging. We are just starting to work on building the frame for these. https://i.imgur.com/imsqXKt.jpg This little jig is set up to show us the height of the stabilizers, and the marks on the side show where the tips should end up. From here we were able figure out we needed 15 degrees coming off of the bases of the stabilizers to end up at our marks. https://i.imgur.com/NYEX44f.jpg Happy accidents are the best ones.
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Posted: 12/2/2021 5:03:03 PM EDT
[Last Edit: brass]
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By guns762: Fill, sand, repeat. We are learning what gets us the best results for the look we are hoping for. https://i.imgur.com/8L7q3tA.jpg That IS the way to do it. There's a reason a glamour showroom finish on entire classic car is 5 digits vs 4 digits for just getting it "repainted". Not one speck orange peel, fisheye, dust, etc. Once you put down the gold and let it dry (maybe 2-4 coats depending on how much you want the base to ghost through the color for silhouette look), you wait a day then add the clear coat and then you wait a week repeat the polishing/flattening process except with 1500 grit sandpaper and rubbing compound if dust or orange peel appeared to get rid of it, that final wet sand/buff is only if there was an oopsie when applying clear - NEVER try to "fix it" while it is still wet, let it cure and deal with it then. Proper preparation usually results in perfect finish without having to re-work the clear at all, dust and bugs landing are the two things that need to be sort of controlled. Preparation is 95% of a paint job, actually spraying the paint is the easiest and shortest tasks in repairing or building something, but most people give it 85% of their time just with rattle cans then wonder why their paint never looks as good as a typical car finish does. Need to use clear coat over the gold, and it's easy to apply, it can be put on a little thicker without runs than the color, but still go with several thin coats. If you get a "dust" look to it from over spray (mask what you don't want really shiny), just keep adding clear to those areas (but not too much, just for gloss) and then sand/buff by hand after the clear coat has had a week to dry and it will look perfect if the prep was perfect (even when prep was imperfect a post-finish wet-sand can fix a lot of appearance issues). The base color paint has nothing in it to protect it from oxidation and UV light, so clear coat is needed if you don't want to wash/compound/buff/wax the canopy every year and still have it turn the hazy chalky white like 80s and earlier vehicles did before the base/clear urethane combination. |
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Posted: 12/3/2021 6:14:15 PM EDT
[#42]
I'll get some time next Monday to get these put up on display. 
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Posted: 12/3/2021 6:19:41 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By armoredman: For the wall...I got the BFL logo off the 'net listed as a phone background, hopefully just using it here isn't a violation. The figures were also a screen grab, just a quick idea. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/360589/Investors_jpg-2181166.JPG Motivational poster; https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/360589/Investors1_jpg-2181171.JPG I suck at this stuff Should have the bolt face embedded behind the people. Then make it into a shirt.
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Posted: 12/3/2021 6:25:10 PM EDT
[#44]
Update 12/3
Not sure how it happened, but when we were making the second flaperon, it became obivious there was a difference in size to make the wing dimensions all fit. Shocking, I know.  We are somehow a 1/2" short on the end of the left wing root. This caused the flaperon to be bigger than the right counterpart. It probably wouldn't have been that obvious, but it's annoying. To make that work, and not tear down the entire wing(not going to happen), we added a 1/2" piece of plywood to extend out the space just a bit.  You can see the right wing, and the difference here, as the edge of the wing where the flaperon mates up with the wing it only 1/2" and not 1" like the left wing. It will work, and now our wing edge has the right angle, and the flap and flaperon all have the right depth to match the opposite wing.  This is the now welded weight to slide inside of the wing. It's just a little bit bigger. I'm questioning whether this will work in the end, but we are far enough into it, that we are going with it.  To ease up friction on the flap, we dremeled out a bit of material, added a washer, and had to strengthen the plywood where the little post is glued into it. The sheet metal will be also screwed in to the wood to help add a bit of side wall strength.  To make the flaperons able to move a bit better without flexing the dowel, we moved the anchor closer to the last rib. Why will the flaperons be able to move at all.....not sure. We may end up fixing them in place in the end.  |
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Posted: 12/3/2021 7:19:16 PM EDT
[#45]
Have you planned how to add zerks to that sliding weight and any other lubrication points yet?
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Posted: 12/3/2021 7:41:33 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By redoubt: Have you planned how to add zerks to that sliding weight and any other lubrication points yet? Lubrication and the paper skin probably would end badly.
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Posted: 12/3/2021 7:56:27 PM EDT
[#47]
Hope that cable is steel wire and not fishing line.
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Posted: 12/3/2021 8:12:17 PM EDT
[Last Edit: brass]
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By guns762: Lubrication and the paper skin probably would end badly. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By guns762: Originally Posted By redoubt: Have you planned how to add zerks to that sliding weight and any other lubrication points yet? Lubrication and the paper skin probably would end badly. Dry Teflon lube. Low enough duty cycle/pressure/speed and in place sliding should keep it working OK. Put a paper towel under the rods and hose them down with the "Super Lube Dri Lube" spray (or liquid), dries a hazy white of PTFE/Teflon coating, can move a few times to get it distributed before it dries and should be all you need. It's kind of like liquid graphite, but won't make every in of the plane metallic grey from graphite fingerprints if it's used anywhere on the craft, graphite powder is magical like glitter telportation to stick just by being near it. So really, stay with the "Dry Lube PTFE" spray or liquid which use the liquid carrier to dispense which then evaporates and leaves the slick coating. |
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Posted: 12/3/2021 8:41:02 PM EDT
[Last Edit: guns762]
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By backbencher: Hope that cable is steel wire and not fishing line. Fishing in is 60lb. We have plastic tubing in the weight and in the wood to help keep it from wearing. Steel cable was not working. It just is too stiff. We tried some very light cable. If it fails we have set it up to be replaceable. |
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Posted: 12/3/2021 8:42:10 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By brass: Dry Teflon lube. Low enough duty cycle/pressure/speed and in place sliding should keep it working OK. Put a paper towel under the rods and hose them down with the "Super Lube Dri Lube" spray (or liquid), dries a hazy white of PTFE/Teflon coating, can move a few times to get it distributed before it dries and should be all you need. It's kind of like liquid graphite, but won't make every in of the plane metallic grey from graphite fingerprints if it's used anywhere on the craft, graphite powder is magical like glitter telportation to stick just by being near it. So really, stay with the "Dry Lube PTFE" spray or liquid which use the liquid carrier to dispense which then evaporates and leaves the slick coating. That's a good idea. I've got some available. |
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