That flash hider looks way cool.

Very impressive and that rifle looks great. Bet you could make some money making those stock sets for sale.

This was quite helpful, I ended up doing something like this actually.



That’s what I’ve been doing, I think my z axis travel was loose and was causing some of my issues.

The Jank Continues Part 1

I decided to try and eliminate as many variables as I could on this attempt. I started with the 1in round stock and faced the ends but didn’t turn the diameter. Then, I made a better v block with a deeper v to hold the part more securely and used a center finder. This is how I bored the hole originally but this time I decided to use end mills instead of drill bit where I could. They don’t seem to wander as much. I still needed to use a .468 drill for the threads though. So I stepped up the drills very slowly until I hit the final size. Then I threaded it again and… it was off. Again. Sus as they say.

Anyway, I have to fix this part. I left the tap in the chuck and threaded the flash hider back onto it and snugged it up tight. I used the lathe tool to turn it down so that it was concentric with the threads. This was a little hairy, taps can snap so I didn’t want to put too much stress on it. I managed turn off just enough to get it back into a collet to finish turning.
After that I ended up with a flash hider blank that’s threaded and concentric but… with an off center bore.

So back into the v block and locate center again.

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Then bore it out with a 9mm end mill and open up the end with the 1/2in cutter again.

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Cut the grooves again.

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Shape it up with lathe tools followed by files.

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Voila.

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Except it was still off… The 1/2in bore is out of round by .006 and the 9mm bore is out by .010… this won’t do. Something is definitely wrong here.

Time to take a closer look at the mill…

Speaking from experience, the problem is you are using a mill instead of a lathe. I've done a lot of sketchy stuff like that with a drill press and mill. Oh, how much easier it was when I got my old lathe.

Try making a threaded mandrel to mount the part. Mount a piece in the collet and turn it down and thread it like the end of the barrel. Once you've drilled through and threaded the part, screw it onto the mandrel and mount the mandrel in the collet to finish bore and turn down the OD. Everything should then be concentric, or at least close enough for government work.

ETA: Don't drill the initial hole all the way through the part in one direction. Go half way from each end.

That’s what I did, I just used the 1/2-28 tap instead of a custom mandrel.

I honestly really like getting advice that I’ve thought of already, it makes me feel like I’m not a complete idiot


The Jank Continues Part 2:

After careful inspection of the mill head, I figured out that it wobbles a bit when I raise or lower it. I spent some time monkeying around with the z axis gibs and got it tightened up. Usually it’s locked in place to make cuts and I’ve only been drilling soft things like wood and aluminum. The harder steel, the size of the cutters and my… unorthodox techniques made it stand out. Should have checked that earlier.

So following this, I took some of the advice from @brass. I didn’t have any hss stock small enough to make a boring tool  but I did have a small v cutter with a broken tip. The edges were still sharp as hell though. Perfect.

So into the vise it goes to play single point cutting tool. Also broke out this mirror and a flashlight… this is going to be tricky stuff.

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Performing surgery.

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Let’s check the results.

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I managed to get the runout down to .0005 on the the through hole and .0000 on the 1/2 bore and most importantly, it’s all concentric to the threads and outer diameter. That’s definitely close enough for government work.

The one I made a few days ago? That one is trash. This one is perfect. Many lessons were learned.

Still looking cool out there on the front.

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Doing great, man.

Beautiful, I love the walnut.

I have not. I’ve seen people install tapered roller bearings in bench top lathes, I hadn’t even thought about that for the mill.

Power feed on the x is my next project though, my arms are getting tired

I’ve been oiling this wood almost everyday for… awhile. It’s been drying for a few days and I’m going to hit with some DIY paste wax after I let it dry a little longer but I had to throw it together to get a look.

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The first few coats were just boiled linseed oil rubbed on. Next few coats I mixed in Japan drier and used 400, 600, 800, and 1000 grit paper to do a kind of slurry of wood dust and oil to fill the pores. Last few coats were buffed out with a fine scotchbrite pad and then I just did 1 final coat of oil.

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I think it looks pretty good so far.

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Maybe not quite like the game model but not bad

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I still might try the goofy pistol grip later.

Wow

That looks really good.

Damn nice work!

game model doesn't have a charging handle.

Left side charging handle.

I really, really, like that.

If I tried it'd look a 3 year old did it

Obsidian put a charging handle on the right side, probably because they were too lazy to create a proper animation. As no-one makes a C7 style receiver with side-charging, a C7 is the best one can do.

Awesome job! That looks great.

I bought one of those Christmas Story lowers with the intention of doing a wood stock. Of course mine will need a compass and that thing that tells time.

impressive work!

Hell yeah!

Very cool.

Very nice, OP.

Have you considered making a thumbhole stock or even a wooden lower with integrated thumbhole stock?