Posted: 9/8/2026 7:50:15 AM EDT
[Last Edit: PKT1106][Edited]
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DIYer doing the wiring for a hot tub install, in Ohio. I have the disconnect panel and the appropriate breakers for the main panel and the hot tub panel. My question is wiring. I am looking through the codes and I can find if I can use 6/3 Romex for the indoor portion going into the outdoor-mounted hot tub panel, or whether I have to use THWN the whole way. Hot tub panel will be mounted on an exterior wall and sealed around the edges, of course. Run is approx 65ft from main panel. To spa panel. I would, of course, use THWN from the spa panel to the hot tub in conduit. Using the Romex indoor would save me some time and money on using conduit in the basement and having to attach it to the underside of joists. Update 9/11/26: Purchased a 75ft roll of 6/3 romex from Menards and ran it from the main panel to the spa panel. I saw a tip on a video to use plumbers putty around the knock-out opening to press against the siding and help keep moisture out. I also applied a LIBERAL amount of silicone caulk around the top ans sides of the disconnect. There is also a wire clamp to hold the 6/3 in place. Man I hate working with thick wire in tight spaces and running it through joists. But, its all in from the main to the disconnect and tightened down. The disconnect has a 50A GFCI and the main panel has a 40A breaker. The manual calls for 40A service, so that breaker will protect the circuit and the GFCI will catch the ground faults. Next is the pvc conduit from the disconnect to the tub. The tub was delivered today, so I was able to open the control panel and see where everything is located if I do a straight run, I MIGHT be able to get away with 50ft sections of wire, but I doubt it. Need to measure again now that the tub is on the deck and in position. Update 9/15/26: PVC has been run and wire pulled and terminated and dip switch changed. Turned on both breakers and everything started up just fine. No errors, but it's pretty easy using the wire with colors. Did 1" from the disconnect to the tub and then a 3/4" liquid tight whip to the control box. |
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Originally Posted By crazyelece: I'm not sure about all of it, but I'm pretty sure running Romex on the underside of joists is a No-No. Along the side of the joist or drill a hole and go through the joist IIRC. Yes, the Romex would be through the joists. I was just trying to avoid THWN in conduit attached to the underside of the joists. |
| I don’t see why running Romex to a junction box in the basement, connecting stranded wire to the Romex in the box would be a problem. When I built my detached garage we ran the Romex to a junction box and used conduit/ stranded wire buried to the garage. A friend who is an electrician helped so I’m sure it was code. |
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Yes, you can run romex into an exterior surface mounted sealed panel. Use of romex from the main panel to an exterior surface mounted septic pump control box is one example. You could also use UF-B, which would technically be slightly overkill. Code wise, it can be routed through joists and walls like romex. If you know the techniques of how to strip it, it's pretty simple to work with. |
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Originally Posted By PKT1106: Yes, the Romex would be through the joists. I was just trying to avoid THWN in conduit attached to the underside of the joists. That’s how I did mine. Code compliant for sure. I did bend the code a little. I took 1” PVC and stubbed it in the crawl space, LB and PVC into the bottom of my panel. Thwn in flex to the tub, 3/4” waterproof flex. Use full size ground(#10). Romex is not rated for wet locations, like outdoors in PVC. If somehow your install involves coming out sub grade, convert to twhn in a J box indoors. They probably have appropriate staples/straps for the #6 romex, but I used 3/4” EMT straps wrapped with electrical tape. MC cable is not needed, and $$. Actually 3/4” pvc is what I used. 1” would be fine too. There are some specific codes applicable referencing the distance of the disconnect from the tub, I don’t remember them. Mine is 4’ away. Attached File |
If life was easy nobody would quit.
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Originally Posted By DVCER: That’s how I did mine. Code compliant for sure. I did bend the code a little. I took 1” PVC and stubbed it in the crawl space, LB and PVC into the bottom of my panel. Thwn in flex to the tub, 3/4” waterproof flex. Use full size ground(#10). Romex is not rated for wet locations, like outdoors in PVC. If somehow your install involves coming out sub grade, convert to twhn in a J box indoors. They probably have appropriate staples/straps for the #6 romex, but I used 3/4” EMT straps wrapped with electrical tape. MC cable is not needed, and $$. Actually 3/4” pvc is what I used. 1” would be fine too. There are some specific codes applicable referencing the distance of the disconnect from the tub, I don’t remember them. Mine is 4’ away. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/857/IMG_1454_jpeg-3824244.JPG I think im going to go with 6/3 romex from the main panel, through the joists and out to the spa panel that will be mounted to the side of the house. Then from the spa panel, use THWN to go to the tub. I think i can use 8ga for the spa panel to the tub because the manual only calls for a 40A feed. The total run is a bit too far for the voltage drop to stay below 3%. Using 6/3 to the spa panel and then 8ga thwn between the spa panel and the spa should be fine, correct? |
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Originally Posted By PKT1106: I think im going to go with 6/3 romex from the main panel, through the joists and out to the spa panel that will be mounted to the side of the house. Then from the spa panel, use THWN to go to the tub. I think i can use 8ga for the spa panel to the tub because the manual only calls for a 40A feed. The total run is a bit too far for the voltage drop to stay below 3%. Using 6/3 to the spa panel and then 8ga thwn between the spa panel and the spa should be fine, correct? Originally Posted By PKT1106: Originally Posted By DVCER: That’s how I did mine. Code compliant for sure. I did bend the code a little. I took 1” PVC and stubbed it in the crawl space, LB and PVC into the bottom of my panel. Thwn in flex to the tub, 3/4” waterproof flex. Use full size ground(#10). Romex is not rated for wet locations, like outdoors in PVC. If somehow your install involves coming out sub grade, convert to twhn in a J box indoors. They probably have appropriate staples/straps for the #6 romex, but I used 3/4” EMT straps wrapped with electrical tape. MC cable is not needed, and $$. Actually 3/4” pvc is what I used. 1” would be fine too. There are some specific codes applicable referencing the distance of the disconnect from the tub, I don’t remember them. Mine is 4’ away. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/857/IMG_1454_jpeg-3824244.JPG I think im going to go with 6/3 romex from the main panel, through the joists and out to the spa panel that will be mounted to the side of the house. Then from the spa panel, use THWN to go to the tub. I think i can use 8ga for the spa panel to the tub because the manual only calls for a 40A feed. The total run is a bit too far for the voltage drop to stay below 3%. Using 6/3 to the spa panel and then 8ga thwn between the spa panel and the spa should be fine, correct? Code is generally 5ft from the inside of the spa, I'd just go with a 50amp GFCI box. |
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Originally Posted By JimmyAR: Code is generally 5ft from the inside of the spa, I'd just go with a 50amp GFCI box. Originally Posted By JimmyAR: Originally Posted By PKT1106: Originally Posted By DVCER: That’s how I did mine. Code compliant for sure. I did bend the code a little. I took 1” PVC and stubbed it in the crawl space, LB and PVC into the bottom of my panel. Thwn in flex to the tub, 3/4” waterproof flex. Use full size ground(#10). Romex is not rated for wet locations, like outdoors in PVC. If somehow your install involves coming out sub grade, convert to twhn in a J box indoors. They probably have appropriate staples/straps for the #6 romex, but I used 3/4” EMT straps wrapped with electrical tape. MC cable is not needed, and $$. Actually 3/4” pvc is what I used. 1” would be fine too. There are some specific codes applicable referencing the distance of the disconnect from the tub, I don’t remember them. Mine is 4’ away. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/857/IMG_1454_jpeg-3824244.JPG I think im going to go with 6/3 romex from the main panel, through the joists and out to the spa panel that will be mounted to the side of the house. Then from the spa panel, use THWN to go to the tub. I think i can use 8ga for the spa panel to the tub because the manual only calls for a 40A feed. The total run is a bit too far for the voltage drop to stay below 3%. Using 6/3 to the spa panel and then 8ga thwn between the spa panel and the spa should be fine, correct? Code is generally 5ft from the inside of the spa, I'd just go with a 50amp GFCI box. I have a Square D Spa Panel with a 50A GFCI included. I did buy a 40A GFCI to replace the 50A. I will also uave a 40A breaker in the main panel. So, the 40A gfci might not be necessary. The 50A GFCI will detect ground faults and the 40A main panel breaker will protect the curcuit. Looks like I can take something BACK to Lowe's. The spa will be about 30 feet away from the house on its own platform. |
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Originally Posted By PKT1106: I have a Square D Spa Panel with a 50A GFCI included. I did buy a 40A GFCI to replace the 50A. I will also uave a 40A breaker in the main panel. So, the 40A gfci might not be necessary. The 50A GFCI will detect ground faults and the 40A main panel breaker will protect the curcuit. Looks like I can take something BACK to Lowe's. The spa will be about 30 feet away from the house on its own platform. Meh your choice, curious what spa brand you went with? I sold spas for 20 years, Jacuzzi, Artesian and Bullfrog. My 2007 Jacuzzi is still going strong though I have had to replace a few parts over the years. I serviced them for a few years prior to sales, so no cost other than getting the parts. Prices on hot tubs especially higher end ones is ridiculous these days? Good luck with the project! |
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Originally Posted By JimmyAR: Meh your choice, curious what spa brand you went with? I sold spas for 20 years, Jacuzzi, Artesian and Bullfrog. My 2007 Jacuzzi is still going strong though I have had to replace a few parts over the years. I serviced them for a few years prior to sales, so no cost other than getting the parts. Prices on hot tubs especially higher end ones is ridiculous these days? Good luck with the project! Dreammaker Spas 2300L. Its a local dealer. They were having a parking lot sale to move old inventory (im guessing). Its a "plug and play" 120v from the factory, but im running a 240 to be able to use the heater and the pump at the same time. All the instructions I have seen basically say "remove power, remove x jumper, set the dip switches for y and restart". And yes, some of them are really expensive now. The one we bought isn't the cheapest, but one of the cheaper options. It will be good enough for us. And im pretty handy, I could probably get through any repairs after the warranty is up. |
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Originally Posted By PKT1106: Dreammaker Spas 2300L. Its a local dealer. They were having a parking lot sale to move old inventory (im guessing). Its a "plug and play" 120v from the factory, but im running a 240 to be able to use the heater and the pump at the same time. All the instructions I have seen basically say "remove power, remove x jumper, set the dip switches for y and restart". And yes, some of them are really expensive now. The one we bought isn't the cheapest, but one of the cheaper options. It will be good enough for us. And im pretty handy, I could probably get through any repairs after the warranty is up. Don't know much about them, I see they are roto-mold which is fine we sold FreeFlow out of CA for awhile. They can be a pain if you get a leak but otherwise fine. Most likely Balboa equipment which is good stuff and parts readily available after the warranty. It's good you are going 220v for sure, but the pump will still be 110v. People that went 110v always complained (even though I told them) as it can take 2 to 3 days to heat up pending the water/air temp. In the winter plan your water changes best you can, I generally do early to late fall then again in the spring. If you have a power outage for any length of time in the dead of winter it is wise to drain it and crack open the in and out pump unions and leave them open, you want as much water out as possible. Enjoy it, my wife is in ours every morning I tend to use it more in the fall and winter. |
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Originally Posted By JimmyAR: Don't know much about them, I see they are roto-mold which is fine we sold FreeFlow out of CA for awhile. They can be a pain if you get a leak but otherwise fine. Most likely Balboa equipment which is good stuff and parts readily available after the warranty. It's good you are going 220v for sure, but the pump will still be 110v. People that went 110v always complained (even though I told them) as it can take 2 to 3 days to heat up pending the water/air temp. In the winter plan your water changes best you can, I generally do early to late fall then again in the spring. If you have a power outage for any length of time in the dead of winter it is wise to drain it and crack open the in and out pump unions and leave them open, you want as much water out as possible. Enjoy it, my wife is in ours every morning I tend to use it more in the fall and winter. Good point about power outages. We usually get 1-2 per year that are more than a day. The way I understand it, once I convert it to 240, the pump will be 120 and the heater will be 120, but they will be able.to function simultaneously, which is nice. In the meantime, we can still use the 120v service for now. The plan is for both of us to use it as a therapeutic soak. The old body is definitely feeling it in the 40s, same with her. Hopefully a little play time as well. I built a 12x16 platform, which is big enough for some chairs or a daybed-style bench  . Im planning on doing a pergola with 2 sides blocked off (house and neighbors).
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Originally Posted By PKT1106: Good point about power outages. We usually get 1-2 per year that are more than a day. The way I understand it, once I convert it to 240, the pump will be 120 and the heater will be 120, but they will be able.to function simultaneously, which is nice. In the meantime, we can still use the 120v service for now. The plan is for both of us to use it as a therapeutic soak. The old body is definitely feeling it in the 40s, same with her. Hopefully a little play time as well. I built a 12x16 platform, which is big enough for some chairs or a daybed-style bench . Im planning on doing a pergola with 2 sides blocked off (house and neighbors).Sounds like a nice set up, the heater itself goes from a 2.5kw to 5.5kw, and yes the pump stays 110. In the 110v set up, the pump and heater will run at the same time when the pump is in low like when heat or filter mode but in high it would shut the heater down. Now you could probably change it out later down the road for a higher HP like 2.0 or a 2.5, 220v yours will be 1.5hp from the factory. Once you get the spa if not already look and see if there is an option with changing a DP switch to a higher HP might be? |
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Originally Posted By boomfab: Yes, you can run romex into an exterior surface mounted sealed panel. Use of romex from the main panel to an exterior surface mounted septic pump control box is one example. You could also use UF-B, which would technically be slightly overkill. Code wise, it can be routed through joists and walls like romex. If you know the techniques of how to strip it, it's pretty simple to work with. I'd be happy to see a source, but my understanding is thats technically against code. Romex cannot be used in a wet or damp location, period. A surface box mounted outside is considered wet. The code doesnt allow an exception for entering a box and then swapping to THWN. I hear most inspectors give it a pass, but ours is anal here. Again, happy to be corrected if thats wrong but thats what I was told and I couldn't find anything to refute it. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: I'd be happy to see a source, but my understanding is thats technically against code. Romex cannot be used in a wet or damp location, period. A surface box mounted outside is considered wet. The code doesnt allow an exception for entering a box and then swapping to THWN. I hear most inspectors give it a pass, but ours is anal here. Again, happy to be corrected if thats wrong but thats what I was told and I couldn't find anything to refute it. In my research, i've seen people say inspectors have accepted both. As long as there is sealant around the knockout for the box and around the box itself, lots have said it wasn't an issue with their inspector. Some have said their inspector said run romex to a junction inside the house, switch to THWN and go to the disconnect and then THWN from the disconnect to the spa. I guy I know said him and his certified electrician father in law did romex to the disconnect (mounted on the exterior surface) and then THWN to the hot tub. Either way, it seems to be a contentious issue. I plan to use a liberal amount of sealant around the knockout opening and the box itself, like i did when i installed a generator inlet and 30A/120V RV plug. |
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Originally Posted By JimmyAR: Not an electrician but have played one many times, what about UF cable IE underground Romex, ran it to my HP and spa not to mention our camper? I don't like inspectors, they are nosey people. Underground, Id rather run conduit for protection. Might do for inside the house. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: I'd be happy to see a source, but my understanding is thats technically against code. Romex cannot be used in a wet or damp location, period. A surface box mounted outside is considered wet. The code doesnt allow an exception for entering a box and then swapping to THWN. I hear most inspectors give it a pass, but ours is anal here. Again, happy to be corrected if thats wrong but thats what I was told and I couldn't find anything to refute it. I many parts of this country, they weirdly put their main panels on the outside of the house. These panels are full of romex. |
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Originally Posted By PKT1106: Dreammaker Spas 2300L. Its a local dealer. They were having a parking lot sale to move old inventory (im guessing). Its a "plug and play" 120v from the factory, but im running a 240 to be able to use the heater and the pump at the same time. All the instructions I have seen basically say "remove power, remove x jumper, set the dip switches for y and restart". And yes, some of them are really expensive now. The one we bought isn't the cheapest, but one of the cheaper options. It will be good enough for us. And im pretty handy, I could probably get through any repairs after the warranty is up. Don’t wait for warranty help. Start learning everything you can now. Ugh….i bought a Cal-Spa 4 years ago this past March. Had an issue and they sent out an alcoholic that made one excuse after another about getting out here. I’m about 25 miles from the city. And 20 of those miles are country back roads. He finally did repair it, partially. A wire corroded through from a leak and shut down one of the pumps. He didn’t fix the leak properly. Main circulation pump housing is plastic and has a “bleeder plug” you can back out to let air out of the pump. It’s not needed, but it started leaking and wouldn’t tighten down. He told me it was tight. It wasn’t. (I have 3 pumps) 6 months later I came outside to a half empty hot tub and found the plug was dumping water again. Long story short, due to tariffs there were no parts for warranty work. I had to learn to “service” this thing on my own. I pulled the pump and JB Welded the shit out of that plug.  I also bought a spare Jet pump off eBay because they changed the pump styles. Seems parts for these China made hot tubs are far and few between and constantly changing. I also discovered by reading that the third party electrode that converts the salt to chlorine has to be swapped out every three years. Seems like that would be a warranty issue, right? Nope. Just like brake pads. Normal wear item. But they don’t mention this when you go to buy the hot tub. something like $200-$300 every three years. Oh, and now the company in town has changed names which tells me they folded up the old LLC and started up under a new one because of no warranty repairs after the sale. Oh well, we enjoy the hell out of it. But not in the summer when it’s 187 degrees outside with 99% humidity. |
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I did a 20 foot run from a sub panel with SOOW, 600 V, 3 Conductors, 8 AWG, Black Jacket. Of course, I only used 2 of the conductors and ground. We had an MRI removed from a site and the ramp cable was left behind, which was much longer than 20 ft. The new MRI came with a new cable and I kept the old one in my office for years. When I decided to get a hot tub after 10+ years without one, I used that cable. I am pretty sure I used a 40Amp 2 phase breaker, definitely a GFCI. I have 240 at my panel, my last house was 208 IIRC. It probably doesn't fit the OP's requirement, but it works well for mine. |
Preferred pronoun: MARINE
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Originally Posted By PKT1106: Yes. Its a Square D Spa Panel 50A GFCI mounted on the outside of the house. Awesome. Im about halfway done with mine. I am mildly regretting not going with more power. The spa I have is convertible and can be ran on 50A or 70A main breakers. The 50 allows two jet pumps plus a heater to run simultaneously but the 70A allows all three to run with the heater simultaneously. Then I go to pick up the spa panel and they upgraded me to a panel that would fit the third GFI breaker, which the normal panel given doesnt have room. But I already installed all the 3/4" PVC and it isnt NEC compliant with #6 AWG THHN given I need four conductors. I'd have had to have gone 1". Assuming you don't have any long runs of PVC? The NEC is super strict on expansion couplers and support clips with it. In SW Ohio you need an expansion coupling for any run longer than 4.5' that is fixed on both ends. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Awesome. Im about halfway done with mine. I am mildly regretting not going with more power. The spa I have is convertible and can be ran on 50A or 70A main breakers. The 50 allows two jet pumps plus a heater to run simultaneously but the 70A allows all three to run with the heater simultaneously. Then I go to pick up the spa panel and they upgraded me to a panel that would fit the third GFI breaker, which the normal panel given doesnt have room. But I already installed all the 3/4" PVC and it isnt NEC compliant with #6 AWG THHN given I need four conductors. I'd have had to have gone 1". Assuming you don't have any long runs of PVC? The NEC is super strict on expansion couplers and support clips with it. In SW Ohio you need an expansion coupling for any run longer than 4.5' that is fixed on both ends. Ours came as a "plug and play" with a 120v cord to get started. You can run the heater or the pump motor, but not both. Now that I have it hardwired with 240v, both can run. It is rated at 40A, so I ran 6ga to the disconnect and then 8ga from the disconnect to the tub to avoid too much voltage drop. I tested voltage at the disconnect (roughly 65ft of 6ga) and it read 250v across the hots, so im good. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Awesome. Im about halfway done with mine. I am mildly regretting not going with more power. The spa I have is convertible and can be ran on 50A or 70A main breakers. The 50 allows two jet pumps plus a heater to run simultaneously but the 70A allows all three to run with the heater simultaneously. Then I go to pick up the spa panel and they upgraded me to a panel that would fit the third GFI breaker, which the normal panel given doesnt have room. But I already installed all the 3/4" PVC and it isnt NEC compliant with #6 AWG THHN given I need four conductors. I'd have had to have gone 1". Assuming you don't have any long runs of PVC? The NEC is super strict on expansion couplers and support clips with it. In SW Ohio you need an expansion coupling for any run longer than 4.5' that is fixed on both ends. Was in the biz a long time can't say I ever saw a 70amp breaker for a HT, 60 yes not 70. Honestly you wont notice a difference with heating. Just run pump one in low spd and pump two which is a single spd. The heater will stay on then. |
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Originally Posted By JimmyAR: Was in the biz a long time can't say I ever saw a 70amp breaker for a HT, 60 yes not 70. Honestly you wont notice a difference with heating. Just run pump one in low spd and pump two which is a single spd. The heater will stay on then. |
Preferred pronoun: MARINE
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Originally Posted By wildearp: Maybe it is a lap/wave swim spa? Mine has two pumps and a heater and it is only on a 40. Originally Posted By wildearp: Originally Posted By JimmyAR: Was in the biz a long time can't say I ever saw a 70amp breaker for a HT, 60 yes not 70. Honestly you wont notice a difference with heating. Just run pump one in low spd and pump two which is a single spd. The heater will stay on then. He might have 3 main pumps, pump 1 is generally a 2 spd, low speed for filtration and heat when not in use. Then pump 2 and 3 which are usually single speed. Maybe even a small circ pump in there is possible, no idea what that guy has. Just never seen a 70 amp breaker for a HT. |
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Originally Posted By JimmyAR: He might have 3 main pumps, pump 1 is generally a 2 spd, low speed for filtration and heat when not in use. Then pump 2 and 3 which are usually single speed. Maybe even a small circ pump in there is possible, no idea what that guy has. Just never seen a 70 amp breaker for a HT. It is a Hot Spring Prism. 3 Pumps plus a heater. Here is 50A schematic: Attached File Here is 70A schematic: Attached File |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: It is a Hot Spring Prism. 3 Pumps plus a heater. Here is 50A schematic: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/17515_jpg-3827970.JPG Here is 70A schematic: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/467079/17518_jpg-3827971.JPG Ah Hot spring spa, makes sense. Nice tub What did you get it for out the door. spa prices are insane HS or not. That said you won't notice a temp drop by the time your ready to get out. |
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Originally Posted By JimmyAR: Ah Hot spring spa, makes sense. Nice tub What did you get it for out the door. spa prices are insane HS or not. That said you won't notice a temp drop by the time your ready to get out. I got an insane deal from what everyone has told me. I paid 16,299 for the Spa, delivery, cover, hydraulic cover lifter, saltwater system, and saltwater monitoring system. Tax was on top but is a local thing so it is what it is. I also got 0% financing. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: I got an insane deal from what everyone has told me. I paid 16,299 for the Spa, delivery, cover, hydraulic cover lifter, saltwater system, and saltwater monitoring system. Tax was on top but is a local thing so it is what it is. I also got 0% financing. Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By JimmyAR: Ah Hot spring spa, makes sense. Nice tub What did you get it for out the door. spa prices are insane HS or not. That said you won't notice a temp drop by the time your ready to get out. I got an insane deal from what everyone has told me. I paid 16,299 for the Spa, delivery, cover, hydraulic cover lifter, saltwater system, and saltwater monitoring system. Tax was on top but is a local thing so it is what it is. I also got 0% financing. You did good! That spa was selling for 8 to 9 not so long ago. Crazy where prices have gone on those things and honestly not much has changed in the spa itself generally bells and whistle crap. Enjoy. |
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Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: I got an insane deal from what everyone has told me. I paid 16,299 for the Spa, delivery, cover, hydraulic cover lifter, saltwater system, and saltwater monitoring system. Tax was on top but is a local thing so it is what it is. I also got 0% financing. Originally Posted By -Obsessed-: Originally Posted By JimmyAR: Ah Hot spring spa, makes sense. Nice tub What did you get it for out the door. spa prices are insane HS or not. That said you won't notice a temp drop by the time your ready to get out. I got an insane deal from what everyone has told me. I paid 16,299 for the Spa, delivery, cover, hydraulic cover lifter, saltwater system, and saltwater monitoring system. Tax was on top but is a local thing so it is what it is. I also got 0% financing. That is a great price. I have an Aria that I bought 8 years ago at the end of the model year and got a good price but not as good as you I don't think, I paid right around $12K then when list price was close to $18K. Today that model is close to $25K. Reading OP's thread reminded me of when I wired mine up, I had another spa prior to the Hot Springs spa so I already had the disconnect in place. I ran the wires, got everything connected properly, put the covers back in place and turned it on but nothing but the lights came on. Took the covers back off and checked everything all the way back to the inside panel and was satisfied everything was as it should be but still couldn't get anything to happen except for the lights. I called the dealer and they sent out some techs the next day. They checked everything and thought the main board was bad without listening to what I was telling them. I told them as soon as they got there that it was a floor model and I asked if it had a demo mode, it wasn't until they were about to yank the circuit board out that I asked them about it again. He reluctantly checked and it was indeed in demo mode. They had a thumb drive to flash the EPROM to put it in the correct mode and everything worked as it should. Gave me a lot of grief at first though. |
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