Why, yes. Yes it is...



Nothing too complex today.

Took the hood, ECV nose, splash guards, and cooling stack off. Got a little bit of a late start but those are the goals I wanted to get done today.

Cooling stack removal was pretty straight forward. Pretty much just 1) disconnect the power steering, transmission, engine oil, and engine coolant hoses, 2) unbolt the upper supports and the lower mounting bolt, 3) unbolt the fan shroud from the radiator, 4) remove the cooling stack, 5) unhook the fan clutch hose and remove the shroud.

If you're taking the cooling stack off, it is probably a good idea to replace the rubber hoses that interconnect the hard cooling lines to the stack. I need to take a piece in to get the correct size. I'll let you all know what that is. You'll need about 4" for the 2 transmission lines and an as of yet unknown length for the 2 power steering lines. Cheap insurance for down the road.

The TM indicates that removal of the fan assembly and alternator are next but Dave and I came to that conclusion on our own before verifying it. So tomorrow will be that, removing the drive shafts, and whatever other progress I can make.

The goal is to remove the drivetrain whole. Probably would be easier if we had the specific 6.2/6.5 engine sling but that's our fault we didn't think of that.

ETA: If anyone has any picture requests of specific areas while we're doing the teardown, let me know and I'll be happy to grab them!

Good god.  Its terrible but beautiful at the same time.

I've got all kind of drivetrain and ECV body parts hanging out there waiting on me and this morning I'm looking into the prices of the frame extension winch plate parts and I'm having second thoughts about going for broke and doing the turbo vs. just the transmission.  On one hand, I've got a good 6.5L GEP in there already, and the top end speed is really my major concern.

On the other, its not THAT much more money to swap the whole drivetrain and sell my old one.  In fact if I wasn't a boob and just haaaad to have the ECV look, i could shave $1500 (hood, nose, frame extensions) off the whole thing.

The work is more involved of course but in the end it won't matter.  Is it worth it to me for an extra 20 hp and more bragging rights?  I keep going back and forth on that.  It is easier to emulate an m1097A2 than it is to do the m1113, but that has nothing to do with the practical gain I get from the turbo, just me being a stickler.

Shout out either way to Ryan_Ruck for helping me get spun up on 6.5T parts and knowledge in just a few days.

Poked around with my fan clutch staying-on-too-long issue yesterday.  Found a troubleshoot TM for the A1 specifically and it had me check the operation of the thermostatic switch, then the resistance at the solenoid valve.  It had a ton of resistance tests to run on the TDM but before I messed with that I did my own test to check the thermostatic switch to see if it would close the circuit at the correct cooled temperature.  The TM just has you verify the ability of the fan to clutch with the switch in the open circuit position.

I idled and even set the throttle lock a bit to reach 215 degrees faster.  After the switch opened, the fan clutched in as it should and I quickly unplugged the switch leads and connected a meter to check continuity across the switch.  Once the gauge read about 190 (where I always notice the fan kicks back down) the switch still had not closed again.  In fact I probably made it down to 180 degrees and the switch never closed.  I shut off the engine and figured that was a pretty conclusive result; the daggone switch is getting stuck open or just doesn't respond to the correct temp on close anymore.  New switch was already on order just in case so I'll be back in business later this week.  Unless there is some second issue at the TDM or the hydraulic valve or clutch is clogged up and restricting the 30 psi I need to get back to freespinning.

EDIT:  I keep forgetting to ask-  why does one need to replace the body harness with these upgrades?  Engine and trans I get, body....seems like all the lights and what not are the same function.  In fact it seems like the body harness might be what takes alot of the time!

RE EDIT:  Nevermind, I see that the body harness is actually where the cannon plug for the TCM is.  In which case I believe thats the harness that Ryan_Ruck plans on making and selling.  The A2 trans harness is actually a small harness and maybe some trans come with it already.  There is a section in the TM for "A2 transmission harness" but no PN that I see listed for the whole thing, just the individual parts.  I'll search a bit later.  I assume if I only did the 4l80e to my NA 6.5, I'd need the A2 engine harness that I linked for Jake earlier.  Or can an A1 6.5 harness be used?

Ryan you are a little further ahead than me. I plan on having mine moved to Ken on Steel Soldiers place Wednesday to start the process. I will tell you the engine fixture made moving the spare engine a lot easier to lift and change angles.

The only big difference between the A1/A0 engine harness and the A2+ engine harnesses are going to be leads for the TPS to tie into the body harness. I do know there's two different harnesses listed for the A2 and the turbo trucks but I haven't pored over the diagrams in the TM to see the differences or had them side by side. The body harness ties into the RPM sensor directly. Why did they do that instead of putting it on the engine harness as well? Beats me...

Besides just the Cannon plug for the TCM, there's also the connection where the A2+ engine harness TPS connection ties in, the brake switch circuit, the RPM sensor, the trans trouble light, the TISS and TOSS sensors, and the actual 4L80E control plug.

My custom harness handles all of that so if you kept your 6.5NA, the custom harness would connect to the TPS directly instead of the engine harness. Your factory harness would stay in place. All we're trying to do is send throttle position and engine speed data to the TCM to make appropriate shifts. In fact, if you got a 6.5TD without an engine harness, I suppose (barring any lead length issues) you could even use your existing harness on it and just connect my harness like the NA engines. After all, the turbo has zero electronic control. The wastegate is all mechanical.

As for the "A2 transmission harness" in the TM, I'll just about guarantee that is the internal transmission harness. It's actually inside the transmission and connects the shift solenoids and what not. The big gray plug is what sticks out the side of the transmission and the body harness would connect to. They managed to damage mine when they pulled it so I'm having to replace that. I'll be dropping the pan to put a new trans filter in so no big deal to do that at the same time.

And something else to consider on the NA vs turbo question, you're not just limited to the existing turbo setup and 20ish extra HP. You can turn the IP up further than the NA engine (after all, you're cramming more air in the cylinders) for a couple extra HP. If you're not worried about things under the hood staying 100% pure, you can install a boost activated water/meth or propane injection system. Also, your engine won't have issues that an NA engine would at altitude if you take it into the mountains.

I've never been known to do things the easy way.

The kicker is that Dave knows a guy who deals in surplus tools/parts. He spoke with him to see if he had one a few days ago. Told him he had like 6 he took to the scrapper a couple days prior. He didn't want to deal with selling them because they are so heavy to ship and didn't want the headache.

Alright, later all! Headed off for another day of wrenching!

Good luck. I am waiting on some paint to dry and then to finish bolting a few more parts back on. Wish the new glass I ordered for the doors would have made it in so for now I am still using the old de-laminated glass.

Yeah man.  explore that territory and do an awesome write up.  the better the write up, the less questions I'll ask you later.

I've been making parts lists and tabulating costs and pros/cons all day with the 4 speed vs. entire turbo upgrade.  I keep deciding on the turbo and then discover that there are numerous more parts I hadn't thought of yet (ECV frame extension parts are an expensive bitch, and I already had the tie down loop brackets and the winch plate).

I understand what you mean about the internal trans wiring harness now; no one ever put it in their write-up and now that makes sense.  I saw it in the TM today and thought it was yet another thing I probably needed.

Honestly I keep getting overwhelmed at the turbo swap between the costs and then the actual size of the drivetrain.  What kind of mammoth engine hoist does one need for that thing?  Hell, even getting it off the trailer when I get it home is going to be an adventure.  My neighbor has a little bobcat and some forks but I'm wondering if that is heavy enough to counterbalance with it.  If I do get it, we will figure something out!

I will say, I am leery of putting any hardtop or additional weight on the truck as it is.  that is one argument for the turbo.

Aguas that is what I did when deciding on the 6.5NA or just going with the turbo. In the end for what I am doing the turbo didn't make since cost wise since Southern Metals isn't selling the parts and the prices have gone up on everything that is needed. I won't be going fast and it is very flat here. Also, I might pick up an A2 someday when those get released in a low enough price point.

As for the weight of the entire drive drain it came on a crappy pallet that Fastenal had re-strapped it to and I was able to unload it from the uhaul trailer that had the ramp with a pallet jack that I picked up on craigslist. I then used a 2 ton Harbor Freight hoist to lift the engine, transmission, and transfer case into the bed of my truck. I do not recommend the Harbor Freight hoist as the bolts were too soft and some broke just putting it together. I would recommend for a job like this the A frame with the I beam on top and hoist that way. Lots more options there.

The entire drivetrain weight isn't that bad. If I had to hazard a guess, I'd estimate 1200lbs total with most of that being engine weight. 2 people can pick up the transmission on its own pretty comfortably and the transfer case can be lifted by an individual, even one in the shape I am.

Something to consider with the turbo swap, you don't need to put an ECV front end on it to make it work. A whole lot of H1s rolled off the assembly line with 6.5TDs and a standard hood. The ECV front end really only came about to accommodate a larger/more efficient radiator for desert operation.

There's definite pros and cons going each route. For me, part of what I weighed is that this is my only vehicle. Even if it's a hobby vehicle because I have a company vehicle, it could need to fulfill the role of daily driver. Not to mention, I use it for all of my heavy hauling. If you've got other options like you do with your Dmax pickup, maybe it would be best to just reuse the NA engine. On the other hand, a turbo swap does increase the value of it should you ever need to sell it and, if you're going to the trouble of a 4L80 swap, pulling the engine, while definitely more work, isn't a ton of very hard work. Trimming the body to accommodate the turbo crossover wasn't all that involved and adding the needed body lift isn't a bad thing to have.

Funny enough, the weight of the drivetrain as a whole, and our lack of an engine sling, is actually something that had us revise our gameplan today. We ended up deciding to break the the drivetrain down and deal with the engine on its own.

Today I got the fan pulled (though not the clutch assembly), the alternator pulled, exhaust crossover removed, driveshafts pulled, and most importantly the transmission and t-case pulled.









And this was on the top of the t-case, couldn't see it from below...



So it looks like it's even "newer" than the manufacturing tag on the case!

The alternator was a easy enough to pull but I discovered something interesting...



That's the rear bracket bolt that is a stud on the exhaust manifold and it is snapped. No idea the details on how.

Driveshaft removal was pretty easy. Pulling the intermediate shaft was a bit easier taking out the front shaft which I had to do anyway to put in a new u-joint.

Pulling the trans and t-case involved just removing the speedo cable, t-case lock light, disconnecting the linkage, disconnecting the rubber cooler lines from the hard lines mounted to the truck, and disconnecting the central vent line. Dave handled the actual removal of the transmission from the engine which is probably why it went so quickly.

One thing we ran into with removing the t-case was having to remove the bracket that the exhaust mounts to on it. With it on there, it will not clear the fuel tank, or at least an A2 tank. Once it was off, it could be maneuvered out.

I know that we've got use of a lift and it does make it more convenient than working on your back () but, so far, all of this is stuff that could be done with the truck on the ground so long as you had a paved surface to do it on. You would probably need to have it slightly elevated on ramps to allow the trans bellhousing to clear the truck but a floor jack could be used to support the trans and lower it to remove it.

Tomorrow's main goal is getting the engine pulled. I want to get the muffler removed, get the underside degreased and cleaned, and potentially get the insulation installed. I'm not planning on dropping the fuel tank to completely cover the underside, I just don't think it's necessary. The worst areas are clearly going to be the firewall and footwell areas for the front occupants as well as areas directly around the exhaust.

Also, something else to mention. When using the A0/A1 muffler with a 4L80 setup, you'll need to cut off the heat shield on the muffler. Reason being is that with the TH400, the exhaust bracket on the t-case sits right at the edge of the heat shield but, with the added length of the 4L80, it would put the bracket right on the heat shield. I'm going to be cutting it off so I can use the muffler until I can straight pipe it.

An interesting side note, I've got an electronic speedometer kit that will be going in the truck and no, I did not buy one of the overpriced (IMHO) speedo kits. At the Findlay meet Dave ended up trading for one. Because of that, he had the electronic speedo in the gauge cluster I picked up for him from Southern Metals that he no longer needed. Problem is, you still need a pulse sender for the speedo. With Dave having the kit in hand, I was able to get the part details:



Running the military part number (12480922) turned up nothing on eBay and it seemed that the only place I could find it was retail for about $180. On a hunch I decided to run the 00041391 number on there which I assumed might be the manufacture's SKU/PN. Well, what did I find but this listed with Mibot for $35/OBO! So, I shot them an offer of $20 (why not! ) and got a counter offer of $30. So, for $36 shipped, I've got the 2nd important piece of the electronic speedo kit! I'll just need to make up the wiring harness for it. The Cannon plug is still on the back of the SM speedo, I have the pinout, and I've got a spare Sure Seal connector the pulse sender uses so it shouldn't be tough at all.

Jake, i went back and forth about 12 times yesterday.  i researched the interior differences and found that early m1113s were probably AC-less and looked alot like an m1097a2 with a turbo and an ecv front end.

just like the rhino and the vic-3, i want the ecv stuff purely for nostalgia.  now if the improved cooling stack was available maybe id be interested in putting it in down the road.  who knows.

Ryan, my twisty rear alt support bracket was the same way, held me up an extra week cause i didnt think i had the skills or could even reach that broken stud.  i ended up sitting up under the truck and drilling with a 12v drill, then tapping in a whathaveyou (name escapes me) and with the worlds smallest vise grips, backed it out problem free.  the rest of the stud was clean and not rusted, thank god.

the new alt kit had the exact same stud and the new alternator is heavier sooooo.  i hear studs are often grade nothing instead of grade 8.

The guy that has been helping me, Ken, has been very helpful in providing common part numbers for a lot of parts such as carrier bearing, seals, u joints, harmonic balancer, exhaust donut seals and hoses. Most of the stuff I was able to order from Rock Auto and Summit Racing and picked up some at Napa.  He has a spreadsheet that he tried posting on Steel Soldiers, but you know how they operate on that site. I will try to get a copy so Ryan can post it on the front page here. It will help people with 6.2/6.5NA engines.

Ken also sent me some pics of the engine as he starts replacing the harmonic balancer, water pump, and various parts.

Attached File

Bah, one more update I guess.

Agreed on a price and a way to get the turbo drivetrain, an ecv hood, and apparently also some good tread MTs on 12 bolt wheels delivered from alabama.  We were scratching our heads trying to figure out how to get it unloaded off the delivery truck and onto our trailer to take it home.  Literally right in front of me was a self propelled construction lift with forks on it.  Builder says sure I can use it to offload.  Alright!

Its time to get ready for paint in the meantime I suppose.  Maybe I can just go ahead and paint the other hood as well, but I'll wait until the swap (next year?) to install it.  That's gonna be tough but maybe I'll get to the swap sooner than I thought.  Garage building will probably take me the better part of 2 months of days off and weekends and evenings and we still haven't broken ground yet.  Then again, I learned alot last time with my pole barn so maybe I'll go a little faster.  I'm having the footer, foundation and pad done then I can take off with everything else from there, except the overhead doors.

I'm considering making it larger than I had planned and also tall enough for a future lift.  I think they take a good 12 feet clearance and then the next common height is 14 foot, but correct me if I'm wrong.

I'm also looking at a bent A2 style brushguard that beltfed34 is selling.  And I have no idea how to resize the giganto-pic.



I'm getting a little sick of all the money I'm pumping into this thing all at once but I'm also worried prices will rise or parts will be harder to find later.  So saving some money by straightening this tube brushguard would be great.  And I could probably make a fairly lower offer on it since its damaged.  He has a field-built heavy brushguard on his store right now thats pretty neat.  Just a 2" approx tube with flat steel slats and a rung around it.

Hope everyone's engine work goes well.

Around here most barns are 14 ft with the next common size being 16ft. The 14 ft high walls gives you a small useable loft, but you can't really stand up except the very center. The 16ft high walls give you a very usable loft and plenty of space for a lift and taller doors.

I did receive the grommet for the radio power wire. I take it the metal retainer goes under the vehicle and the stub sticks up? Below is a pic and just want to see how others look before I install. Also, I have been using my Streamlight Switchblade work light and the Harbor Freight Braun trouble light. Both have been great with the magnetic base. Of course one is $20 and the other is $70 (Streamlight has more features such as UV for leak detection).

Attached File

sounds like you got it right.

assuming i have it right.

Yours is right, I just crawled under mine and I found the original one that I thought I had misplaced. It was there the whole time. Oh well another lesson learned and extra parts. Pretty soon and I will have enough for another one.

sigh.  yep.  i got in a flurry and accidentally ordered some doubles of small 4l80e stuff, then changed my mind to a turbo and now i will have a dozen redundant parts;  actually a large amount of the 4l80e swap parts come to think of it.

im getting ready to have two tires on 12 bolt wheels (60-70%?) that i wont need, and two rattier versions that i wont need too (these two almost predate the GWOT).  im not thrilled about how they will take up the rest of my crowded snake infested garage.*

*now with alot less snakes!

Sweet!

This is the lift Dave has. As you can see, not super expensive for what it lets you do.

A suggestion, make sure you've got clearance in front and behind the lift to move an engine (or even complete drivetrain) completely clear of a vehicle when using a hoist.

Buy once, cry once.

-------------------

Time for today's SITREP!

Engine is out!





Removal went pretty trouble free.

Biggest bit of advice on it is take your time and make sure everything is completely disconnected, nothing will snag, and do the removal slowly so you can keep an eye out for issues. Also, use bolts to plug your lines so you don't end up with huge messes. If you plug the power steering lines though, don't try to turn the wheel unless you want to turn your bolt into a projectile and spray ATF everywhere.

Only a couple noteworthy things on the actual removal.

The passenger's side engine mount really needs a ratcheting wrench. It's too narrow to get a socket in there and you'll be there all day using a regular box wrench.

Didn't have to remove the starter but did have to remove the pulley mounted to the harmonic balancer for some forward clearance.

For the removal we lifted the engine enough for the starter to clear and had a very slight bit of clearance left for the top of the engine. We're a little concerned that on install of the turbo engine, we may have to remove the upper section of the intake above the turbo to allow initial clearance. I suppose we could also unbolt the body mounts to lift the body with the lift slightly but considering how much trouble the front driver's side one is to get to, I'd rather not. Then again, that was with the NA exhaust setup. The turbo exhaust setup crosses over to the passenger's side above the engine so no crossover pipe on the driver's side to get in the way. We'll see... Also, once we had the engine up and mostly clear we ended up having to roll the truck back slightly since we couldn't take the hoist too much further forward, hence, my warning above.

As I had mentioned, while I had the drivetrain out, I planned to install some db Engineering insulation. While scoping everything out, it looks like with the 20' roll I've got way more than I may need. Again, we'll see...

Also while under there I thought it wise to do a steering suspension check. Good thing I did because my pitman arm is shot! So that will be getting replaced too.

Another great thing about having the drivetrain out and putting the insulation is is that it necessitates a clean surface. So I spent about 30 minutes waterboarding myself under the truck with degreaser and a pressure washer. I can honestly say I've never seen my engine bay and underside so clean!



The paint underneath is surprisingly immaculate! I suspect it was the protective layer of grease.

Nearest the camera is an interesting bit. It seems to be a hollow box with a thin metal cover inside of it. Not sure what it is for but tapping on that metal cover makes it rattle a lot. It almost looks like someone started to try to pry one end off and then stopped after an inch. Going to put some silicone on the seams to quiet it down.

There's still one section (near the back as you can see) that was near impossible for me to get to easily with the pressure washer so I'll have to clean it up with a rag and some lacquer thinner.

The degreaser I used was Sam's Member's Mark brand, used concentrated in a pump spray bottle similar to this. Definitely recommend one! Spraying the degreaser with that is a breeze, the degreaser itself just eats up the grime, and the pressure washer finishes it off.

We're letting the truck dry overnight before doing insulation.

Tomorrow we'll be putting the insulation in, breaking down the turbo drivetrain, getting the engine in the truck, and then possibly installing the t-case that came out of my truck onto the 4L80. Following that will be getting the trans harness installed   and the trans/t-case installed with the remainder of everything else to follow.

good progress!  im waiting for you to fit your driveshafts so i can make sure i order the right ones.  our TC and diffs should be the same id think.

found the rubber ring around my front driveshaft allows for 1/8" play in all directions.  im told this is not supposed to be.  the rubber is ancient and i believe its dried up and shrunk.  could account for the bounce at 30 mph that goes away, or maybe the angry bounce i get about 60 mph (helpful way to keep it at 55!).

you going to replace the resilient mounts for the engine?  someone suggested replacing the one for the trans so it seems like maybe it would be a good idea at the engine too.  might be an $80 cost though.

good tip on plugging the open hoses and lines.

will the body harness be the first part you put back? it sounds like its tough but then with your body lift maybe it wont be so bad.  im actually dreading the harness the most; just getting it routed in such a way that it wont wear holes in wires or burn jackets or just get caught on some rotating part while hanging where not supposed to.  im hoping the majority of the thing will stow where the old one did.

i ended up getting a good price on the hard to find 15a breaker for the trans, btw.  honestly the inline fuse would have been cheaper and easier and not needed a special place to mount.

will also need some intel on your body lift.  i cant quite figure out if the military went 1/2" or 1".  not a big difference but you know me.

To your point - I don't see the prices on a lot of items going down. Breton selling there soft skin items to the consumer marketplace was a welcome surprise though as it at least simmered the market for the soft-skin stuff - you can now buy brand new for the same cost that used stuff was going for last spring. I don't see any surprises coming from the other mil contractors though. There is an end in sight though since once you get your truck where ya want it, it's just maintenance after that. That's where I'm currently at with both of my trucks.

Make sure if you get the tube brush guard that you get the mounts for it - those seem to be the hardest parts to find for that setup.

I'm looking at possibly getting a hummvee through private sale in the near future. Reading through this thread has been tremendously helpful, but was wondering if there were any direct things I should look for/ask about. If I do get this vehicle, the pote goal is high that I would be using it heavily, but mostly on road (if I can get it approved for such). Thanks in advance!

Edit: I dont have much info on this particular vehicle yet

lots of em on craigslist around lexington and central KY.  a guy in carrolton has about 6 right now, and he is fixing one at a time to sell.  i bought mine from him.  he has a 4 door softop he just painted a fresh 3 color woodland with the legitimate paint.  includes the large A2 airlift bumper (the basic m998 and m998a1 thats available doesnt have any real rear bumper, just a place to mount a pintle hook).

not sure which engine it has, either 6.2 or 6.5 with a 3 speed auto like all the other m998s.

id look into an 1994 m998a1 model if you have the ability, it has the nicer seats and some other improvements that you may not notice right away.  i believe the older models have a goofy driveshaft parking brake, for instance.  and if you dont know these trucks yet, the 3 speed autos rely on the parking brake as the transmission doesnt have a parking pawl (sp?).

seems to me such a truck ought to be around $15K from a private seller.  someone in lexington is asking over $20k for a 4 door 1994 m998a1 right now but i doubt they will ever get that much.

if you ever wanted to see a truck to decide better if you want to tool around at high rpms and 55mph, come on to central KY.  id be happy to show mine off.

titling in KY must be pretty easy since they passed legislation on it last year.  mine was reportedly one of the first, and the seller sent a bunch of communication back and forth with the state level DMV back when it still wasnt clear exactly what the legislation was going to do for us.

i insure with KY Farm bureau, used to have it with state farm (everything from them got too expensive).

Thanks, the one I have my eye on is just down the road from me. Ive done some general research, but cant seem to narrow the field in terms of top speed and mileage. Ive seen some say they can get over 20/gal in them while others top out at around 12. In the same boat some have said they can get 80mph out of them and others that 55 is really pushing it hard.
My current insurance is through progressive.

my brother ran into a local guy at a car show that told him he does 75 mph all the time.  he has a surplus 1994 m998a1 like mine.  im like....yeah, right.

id say the A2 versions with the 4 speed trans from the factory could hit 80, but a member here said something like "it feels like i was going for a land speed record".  still, i bet you could do 65-70 comfortably that way.  that would make alot of difference in use of the truck, thats for sure.

some guys in the thread are doing trans swaps or have already done them.  one is doing a 6.5t with that 4 speed trans right now.  im gonna do so later but with what else i have to squeeze into this summer and fall building-wise, its not likely ill even get to it this year.

if you wanted to spend 20K or so, you could watch the auctions and settle on a 4 speed equipped truck from the get-go.  at least thats what i imagine you get an m1123 or m1097a2 for at auction.  i dont know firsthand.  but i think it would be worth it.

I'll echo what Aguas said.

20mpg is a joke - 12mpg is pretty realistic.

I've done 4 speed conversions on both of mine and can say that with the factory 4L80, it's comfortable topped out at 65. It can go faster but you can tell you're really pushing the truck. The issue isn't so much the engine and drivetrain as much as everything else - mil-spec tires, suspension, etc. I'm sure that if it was equipped like an H1, then it would be a different story. I can tell you that routine driving with a factory 3-speed at 65+ mph will only speed up your timeline for a engine and drivetrain replacement.

How many of you guys have had to explain that it doesn't get "6" mpg?  Thats the first thing anyone wants to tell me theyve heard about them.  Honestly I'm surprised they do as good as they do being so heavy and having full time 4wd.  I guess the GM diesels made up for utter lack of power with "efficiency"

Between the V and my boxvan I don't drive anything routinely that gets better than 10 or 12 come to think of it.

I'll let you other veteran owners field the newbie questions. I'm beat. I think I've been home and awake a cumulative 16-18 hours since Sunday.

That said, the hard work is paying dividends! The 6.5TD is in the truck!



We got most of the daily goals achieved today. Drivetrain broken down, insulation installed, engine in the truck, trans harness 85% installed, began connecting the new engine.

First, the engine went in with only slight issue, none of which was vertical clearance. We ended up taking the upper intake section and intake horn off and had several inches to play with. A word of caution if you're going to put the block in with the alternator on, make sure you take the cooling stack gasket brackets off that are on the air lift hook towers. Sliding the engine in between the towers is very tight and it will not clear with them on there. We also should have taken the fan and oil filter adapter off for some extra clearance in front and below. I would also highly recommend some padding on the front edge of the window frame tub area, especially if you don't have the correct engine sling and value your paint.

During breakdown of the drivetrain we discovered the flywheel/flexplate had some of the teeth edges ground down somehow so picked up a new one from O'Reilly for $46. They didn't have it stocked but had it same day. Gave them a 2001 H1 for reference.

When they pulled the drivetrain, they were nice enough to cut the blue high pressure line on the hose connecting the power steering pump to the brake hydroboost right at the thin metal tube area. Very fortunately that section will unscrew from the end fitting and I was able to take it off the old tube. The old hose cannot be reused as the fittings are completely different on the pump side with the remote reservoir setup. I'll need to check the hose routing in the TM for the other two hoses that come off the reservoir to see which goes to the Cadillac valve and where the other goes.

Lots of odds and ends to start reconnecting to the new engine but it looks like that, though time consuming, should be straightforward.

The insulation wasn't tough to do but was a little tedious cutting everything to mostly fit and then taping up the edges. I got most every important area underneath covered though. I still need to do the underside of the hood and add some more to the doghouse. I'm thinking this stuff will make a huge difference. Just standing under the truck with it low enough so my head was in the tunnel area for ease of installation, ambient noise was distinctly quieter and muted. And after saying I wasn't going to drop the tank any, I decided to since Dave had an upright transmission jack handy to support it.

Some of the pics are at different stages on installation...









Also got the trans harness mostly installed. I just could not get the brake switch signal lead through the factory openings into the driver's footwell. I think I'm going to just end up drilling another hole and putting a grommet into it. Also discovered the TCM leg of the harness is WAY too long despite having been measured off the factory harness. Not sure what's going on there but everything goes where it needs to but leaves a ton of length left over. I'm going to have to trim it way down and adjust my lead length measurements accordingly.

Did some research last night on the steering components since I need to replace my pitman arm. Looks like the direct replacement is really only a bandaid repair as an improved steering setup (not the Sheppard one) was released in 1995 and dubbed the A2. It was also released for the H1s. The center link/drag link has thicker flanges and the idler and pitman arms have longer studs. So far as I can tell the ends aren't affected, hoping that is correct. So after a brief visit to Beltfed's Parts Emporium I've got NOS improved components on the way for $120. The pitman and idler aren't the Moog Problem Solver parts but I wasn't having much luck finding cheap offerings in my quick search. Maybe down the road but for now the factory standard improved parts will have to suffice.

oh good, looks like you have the starter cable slinky.


the insulation install looks great!  i might actually be interested in doing that.

ill have to check out this steering stuff, i guarantee mine is probably as rough and i know its not improved.  ive heard of the moog problem solver but never knew what it was.  research time.

i chucked an offer out for the a2 style brushguard that was bent and mounts (like lawman said, they are the hard part) and beltfed accepted so i guess i have that coming to fix.  i didnt usually see m111X with any guards but i feel like anything to protect the expensive hood is a good thing.

my thermostatic switch came in but havent had time to replace it.  still reaaaally hoping that its the only problem.  replacing looks as easy as the TM says, which is pretty much "remove switch.  apply thread sealant.  install switch".  being on the top there i dont know if ill have a coolant mess or not.  i guess if its after the thermostat and the engine is sitting cool then, no?

EDIT:  Ryan, let us know how bolt-in that engine is.  ive heard all the cooling lines and fuel lines and all that stuff just ports right over.  that would be very nice if true.

Thanks for the info everyone. I'm starting to realize that perhaps a hummer is not in my imediate future as I dont have the time and resources to put into it to bring it up to what I am wanting out of it presently. Hopefully in the future though

My 2003 H1 factory manual says 2350rpm = 69mph, it will cruise at 85+on cruise control if needed, 12.5-13mpg is the best it gets.

Did you consider ever lifting the body off the frame?

So I was sent some pics today of my engine as he is replacing the water pump and harmonic balancer. Good news is with the timing cover off, those parts look new. Bad news is they did not run antifreeze and the water pump and associated parts are heavily corroded. Going to flush everything really well and continue on and see if it becomes a bigger problem as I am concerned it may have overheated in the past and that might have been why it was put out of service. Let me know what you think.

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Yup, and as mentioned on these military trucks, the issue isn't the drivetrain. I know there are very minute differences between the very early H1 and a Hmmwv, but the military tires, crap wheels, etc don't make for a fun ride at 80mph. It'll do it - it's just that it's comfortable at slower speeds. It's still like entering the earth's atmosphere, just at a slightly higher speed.

Sorry, inside joke guys. I've actually got a second that came with the new engine.

Yeah, definitely worth going over. I do know it wasn't like that when I got the truck so it must have just been it's time. I probably should have measured the center link flange thickness just to make sure I didn't already have the improved one but I forgot to before I ordered it.

That should be the case.

So far everything seems to be lining up fine. I can confirm the oil cooler fittings are the same which we were concerned about.

The power steering still remains to be seen but the high pressure line, as I mentioned in my last message, worked out despite having the tube section cut. It went into the hydroboost no problem. The problem is how everything after the hydroboost is supposed to get routed.

I've got the TB for the REV trucks which shows the remote PS reservoir setup like my truck uses and I've got the TM which shows the A2 and ECV setups. The problem is, my setup uses the remote PS reservoir but in a non-REV setup.

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As you can see, the REV section mentions the remote reservoir but doesn't show the Cadillac valve or fan clutch assembly (since the REVs use the geared fan drive) and, the A2/ECV setup shows the Cadillac valve and fan clutch but not the remote reservoir. I'm guessing the version of the -387-24 manual I've got is just not up to date enough to show the newer ECVs. So, it shouldn't be tough to figure out but I'll have to trace everything out to see where things go.

We did but decided not to. Dave said if he were doing it again, he would try that route to see how much of a difference it makes, if any. It is a fair bit of extra time and work to disconnect everything to lift the tub.

Dang... You guys compression test it to make sure the heads aren't warped or it's blown a head gasket?

If I were in your spot with all that corrosion, I'd do like you said and do a heavy flush. But then drain and fill completely up with CLR (it'll take a lot! ) and let it sit at least overnight to dissolve everything. Then heavily flush like 2 more times. That stuff works wonders on cooling system buildup/corrosion. Just have to get it all flushed out. I need to hit my radiator with some before I put it back in. It has some corrosion in it as well.

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Once again, we got most all of our daily goals achieved.

Got the original t-case installed on the 4L80 and the cooling lines connected. Got the new crossmember made. Got the trans/t-case in the truck and installed on the engine. Got the internal transmission harness replaced and the new trans linkage installed since the original hardware was torch cut. Got the fuel lines, oil cooler lines, and starter connected. Got the dual filter kit installed. Got the TCM side of the trans harness complete.

First a shot of the new crossmember Dave welded up. He cut the mounting tab off of my hacked up crossmember and welded it to my new 3 speed crossmember. We could have reused the original 3 speed crossmember but a new one was so cheap so why not. If you didn't have an existing 4L80 crossmember to cut the tab off, one could very easily be made with some box steel tubing cut and welded into place and then drilled for the trans mount bolts.



As I mentioned, we got the trans and t-case into the truck and bolted up:



The rear of the engine had to be raised, since it has a natural tendency to droop backwards, in order to get the trans lined up square since the fuel tank prevents the t-case from being where it needs to be to do so otherwise.

All of the intake stuff still needs reinstalled and we need to start cleaning up the odds and ends. Did get the original fan clutch assembly transferred over since they boggered up the one on the engine.

Dave worked on reattaching the mechanical stuff like the starter cabling and fuel lines while I worked on the trans harness wiring and getting the TCM plug installed.

As I mentioned, there was a lot of excess in the TCM plug leg which I thought was very odd since I modeled it off of Dave's A2 harness. I remember thinking when I put it together it seemed really long. I was able to trim about 60" total length off of each lead. Not an insignificant amount! As I said, I'll be revising my build sheet measurements. Only things left for the trans electronics are installing the power components, hooking up power, installing the new brake switch, hooking up the brake signal leg, hooking up the trans light, connecting to the trans, and hooking up the TCM. I'm hoping to get all that done tomorrow.

Also plan to get the driveshafts installed, get the intake parts installed, get the hydraulic system connected, get the alternator installed, and maybe start getting the cooling stack installed. Dave estimates we're about 85% complete at this point and hopefully tomorrow should put us pretty close to the finish line!

ETA: Dave and I discussed post install possibilities. He's a GM guy and knows these engines better than I do. He thinks it shouldn't be a big deal to modify the wastegate on the turbo to up the boost to in the neighborhood of 14PSI, instead of the 8PSI from the factory. He said the engine in its stock configuration should be able to handle it fine long term with no negative consequences. He said he's got the boost in his Banks kit in his CUCV on a GM block running at that so an improved GEP block shouldn't be a big deal at all. He estimated it to give a 50ish HP increase over NA engine as opposed to the roughly 20 at 8PSI.

cant say im not jealous!

every post does raise more questions for me.

what do you mean by raising the rear of the engine?  i figured the engine mounts held it tight in one spot at one angle and that was it.  or did you not have them tight yet to allow for wiggle room until the whole drivetrain was installed?  i still have the old school gas tank but i dont believe its necessary to replace from what ive seen of transmission only upgrades.  which should be the same case in this area of the truck.

i likely have an extra NOS 4l80e crossmember now since the pulled turbo looked to be so intact.  maybe its butchered, but how did they butcher something under the trans/tcase?  i guess ill find out soon enough!

the power steering problem i dont fully understand.  without looking at the TMs, does the 6.5t have an upgraded pump?  ive read that the serpentine belt system runs the opposite direction so i assume its got to at least be a different pump.  i suppose i dont know if my drivetrain is from an REV truck or not.  im not sure what the cutoff would be.  i know our m1116s still had round lift loops and that was back in 2009.  but the majority of m1113/4 pics i find are REV loop.  i wonder how many takeouts are early vs. late in that regard.  then again, no geared fan drive probably = not REV truck.  think i just answered my own question.

if the turbo has a fan that spins the opposite way, can you reuse your fan and clutch?  im not in front of the computer or i could crosscheck the TMs.

@Jake, does a soaking and flush sound good to Ken?  i hope thats all it takes.  makes me wonder what my current and future engine look like.  the manual in my 53 willys mentions swapping from antifreeze/water to just water at diff times of the year.  maybe thats still SOP on tactical fleets?  i dont really see the advantage with modern antifreeze.  maybe they didnt use distilled water?

spoke with Steven who runs the retired war horses shop out in california.  he had some misc parts for the ecv snout setup that everyone else wanted stupid money for.  he seemed like a really genuine nice guy but im glad we were just talking body pieces and hardware instead of engines and mechanics.  i think he would lose me fast.

We're really close to completion at this point! Today was mostly a day of odds and ends like getting the clutched pulley on my alternator and getting it installed, the crossover pipe wrapped and installed, the upper intake reinstalled, cooling lines installed, engine harness installed, serpentine belt installed, hydraulic lines hooked up, and the driveshafts installed.

Unfortunately we also ran into our first snag today but we are working on solving it.



Can you spot the issue?

Here, I'll help...



Yes, that's an intermediate shaft that's too short.

Looks like when Greg was at Austin's to help him measure out the shafts to see if he had the one I needed, it was misidentified. I know neither of them did it on purpose but that was $125. Not sure if there's anything that can be done about it since I bought it back at the end of October.

The shaft is engaged on the front shaft splines but I don't want to operate it like that for long at all. Not sure what direction we're going to take to fix it just yet, if it means having the shaft re-tubed or what.

And to think, everything was going so well up to this point!

On the plus side it's starting to look like an actual engine!



Did not get to finishing up the TCM power wiring but that should be tomorrow.

Based on where we are, I'm thinking we should have fire up tomorrow which will include filling up the engine, trans, and power steering with some fresh fluid, running it to temp for a period, and then doing a drain and filter change to clean out any junk in the system.

I've got to be honest, the work itself hasn't been too bad but the pace we've been doing it at to free up Dave's shop space ASAP has been kicking my ass. It doesn't help Dave lives 45 minuted from me so it's an hour and a half round trip every day. If he were closer and/or I was working on it in my own shop space, I'd probably be taking a slower pace.

(PS @Augas no brake linkage today. Thanks USPS! )

well, you planned to get it done in a week so there you go.

im going to go and plan about 4 weeks for mine based on having no lift, maybe a little help and the probable "oops" that happens when random parts end up missing or being wrong.

what is the deal with the front part of the shaft?  i wonder what it was supposed to fit.  ive read some swap writeups that involve shops telling guys that a few inches of contact is fine.  may have run into the same issue but just decided to go with it.  im with you though, screw that.  hope theres a correct shaft and its not a case of A1 to A2 parts incompatibility.

My ecv parts search is down to frame extensions and winch plate braces.  finally tracked down hood, nose, splash shield extensions, etc.  so far the frame extensions are 65 and 85 for left and right at the only store i can find them, and the diagonal lower braces are 150 each!  im not paying that so the search continues.  i plan to hold off till the swap to install any of it so i have some time, just eager to cross things off the list.

so assuming that it was actually put on its way to ohio by wednesday, it takes more than 3 business days to mail it like, 2 hours away?  surely it will be there tomorrow afternoon.

I can tell you exactly what it's supposed to fit. It's for a TH400/242 truck as it's identical to the one I had in my truck already.

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Not a vary long update for today. We got all of the vitals reassembled and some temporary connections (until it can be run under the body correctly) made for the TCM power.

The good news is the engine cranks.

The bad news is it didn't want to start even with a couple injector lines cracked. It was a bit late by the time we were able to get to the test start phase so it didn't leave much time for troubleshooting (I just got home about 45 minutes ago).

The only way we were able to get it to attempt to catch was using ether. We were, of course, very careful with that. There's definitely fuel getting to the IP and there's at least some getting to the injectors but we don't know if it's working correctly or enough.

We're going to work on more troubleshooting tomorrow.

ETA: It must have been KY National Guard drill weekend. On the way up to Dave's today I ran into 2 large military convoys on I-275 headed north. The first had some armored MTVs and, interestingly, all soft skin HMMWVs. Second convoy was just about all HEMTTs. I got some pics. I'll post them when I get a chance.

Lol at the brake linkage envelope, btw.  little guy was just hanging on any way he could.

i always assumed there would be a ton of air in the fuel system upon initial startup and i understand its a pain in the ass to bleed it out of a diesel.  but id say you thought of that already.  some problem with the glowplug controller or glowplugs?  i dont know, trying to imagine how id get myself out of that mess if it was mine.  id probably come here first, hah!

swapped out my thermostatic switch last night.  easy operation but the new switch despite being the same part number had about 1/4" more threads down the length of it.  the threads bottom out in the crossover and cause it to stick out 1/4" more than the old one did.  im sure its tight and sealed, but now the guts are that much further out of the chamber, and i worry if it will sense correctly.  ill have to wait awhile for the sealant to set up (tube says 72 hrs ) before i can try it out.

the switch and the crossover are the same part number across the board for 6.5 na and 6.5t so i dont think i have incompatible parts, but some stores list a pic identical to my old one and most look like my new one.  i hope i dont have to pull it and buy another.  they arent cheap and i want to get back on the road.

if anyone wants to take a look at their switch, itd be comforting to know if anyone elses is showing about 3 complete threads sticking out.

i too saw a convoy of m115Xs and armored LMTVs yesterday.  in some ways id like to have the newest and best model but in all honesty i do prefer my softop where i can roll the back curtain up and pop the doors off in seconds.  at least i can pretty much have that same drivetrain and less overall weight.

i googled around for awhile now and there seem to be about zero softop ecv trucks unless youre talking m1113s.  most of these seem to be later REV models with AC and that basic under armor.  but some earlier models look indistinguishable from an A2 or A1 on the outside.  im going for that look due to the cost and scarcity of the parts.

if i wanted an unarmored 4 door ecv, the GMV looks to be about the only authentic possibility!  the cost of older top and turret ring is sky high and any style bed rail seems unobtainable.  i do like the fact you can have a hardtop and turret but still have an open back for air circulation, but for this climate id have to get a pretty good fit with a soft curtain to keep the rain out and turrets are a hole in the roof sooo.

Maybe pressurize the fuel system some more like in this link on Steel Soldiers with Youtube Video.

I forgot to check mine. Had a lot going on!

But I'd say you're fine though. So long as it's in the coolant passage exposed to coolant and it's not leaking coolant, I'd just about guarantee you're fine

Had a chance to look at the pics I took and it looks like it was the KY NG 2/138 Field Artillery and per their Facebook page, they were on their way to Camp Grayling which is a bit of a drive! I'll make a followup post with the pictures I took.

+1 to all that!

Just so everyone on here knows, at the exact moment Jake text me that link this morning, I had already bought the rubber bladder and 1/4" quick disconnect from Harbor Freight and was at Lowe's in the plumbing aisle getting brass fittings to connect it all and sent him a pic. I ended up getting 2 different fittings than the one the video shows. Maybe Home Depot has the exact ones but mine worked too.

I didn't end up needing it (I'll expound shortly) but will be keeping the handy little tool for any situation where I manage to run it dry.

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Okay, another good news/bad news update for today.

The good news:



Dave did some troubleshooting before I got to his place and found that the injection pump wasn't getting voltage on 54A which would prevent it from running. That's why it's a common way to disable the truck. It looks like the 6.5TD harness has a suspected break in it. As a semi-permanent fix, I cut 54B at the EESS plug and installed a couple Packard connectors and then installed a patch wire with Packard connectors direct to the IP. Cranked and fired right up.

We also found we weren't getting anything on the dash lights/gauges. On the body harness there were 3 Packard connectors in the vicinity of the shifter that were not connected. Apparently the 6.5TD engine harness does not have these connectors and they need modified. If we'd have been paying closer attention to what was being disconnected, we would have noticed those were for the dash ground, the oil pressure, and the coolant temp. As it stands we did some looking in the TM and located them. For reference, they are wires 33A, 58B, and 36A. 36A connects to the oil pressure sending unit on the rear driver's side of the turbo engine (A silver cylinder with a stainless braided line going to it). 58B is a ground you can locate wherever you need to. 33A goes to the coolant temp sender on the driver's side head and needed a patch wire. Note: All patch wires were made with Packard connectors, in the case of the ground, a ring terminal was used.

So after all this, things were looking pretty good! The engine was running well and we believed we had chased down all loose leads causing issues. The only things that still needed done were permanently installing the TCM electrical components with the kick panel and wiring and, reinstalling the hood.

We started bleeding the power steering system and when Dave hit the brake pedal, the high pressure line of the power steering pump to the hydroboost popped off the end I had installed and spewed ATF everywhere. Turns out, the end directly on the hose is not a compression fitting with a threaded tube installed but rather that threaded tube holds the hose against the metal fitting to retain it. The hose needs a clean cut and the metal fitting has internal threads (like a wire nut) that needs driven down onto the hose until it's fully seated on the hose and then the threaded tube is installed. Holding the hose with Vice Grips while using an impact gun to install the fitting, and then installing the threaded tube did the job.

I figured I could handle dressing the wires up at home to free up Dave's workspace which left the hood reinstall but I wanted to take the truck for a quick test drive down the road before we went any further.

So we hopped in and backed out. So far, so good. Now the bad...

Put it in OD and took off slowly. As soon as the RPMs got up we knew something was up. The transmission was not shifting. The "Trans" trouble light was lighting up when the ignition was turned on and turning off when the engine was running but it wasn't coming on to indicate any issue. So we pulled back in and I swapped the TCM from a newer TD unit I had picked up to the NA one I had previously. No change...

Dave spoke with a transmission specialist he knows personally and he suspects the trans isn't getting voltage or needs grounded so it's gone into default mode. So now we're in for more troubleshooting.

So close.

My gut tells me it's something in the trans harness that got overlooked which makes me want to kick myself but that's why it's a working prototype I suppose. Both Dave and I are now off vacation so it remains to be seen how/when we're going forward. The truck is still at Dave's and he's said he and our buddy Mark (who is a mechanic and lives nearby) will probably be taking a look at it. I've sent Dave the military 4L80 Supplement/Troubleshooting Guide I've got for them to reference. He seems pretty confident we can get it figured out in short order so I'll have to defer to his greater mechanical/GM based experience.

Sucks being so close yet so far away.

when you say trans harness, do you mean the internal (i think you had to repair that) or the external?

very satisfying to hear things run.  must....start and finish new garage before can do the swap!

spoke with the fella who i bought my truck from in carrolton, i was asking him all about where/how to get sherwin williams carc paint.  he mentioned Ryan_Ruck showed him where to get it around cincinnati.

he made it sound like that place you all got paint from was a little iffy about selling to regular people.  or at least, eithout making an account first.  i have a business (not paint related) so maybe that will help purchase through them.

good luck with the progress.  thats going to be an awesome ride!

Sorry, should have specified, the external harness.

There's no reason you shouldn't be able to get the Sherwin Williams CARC. It's not a restricted item and there's nothing special about it. The actual location I ended up paying for it at and picking it up from was one of their "Product Finishes" locations, more like a commercial sales/distribution center location. The one at 9203 Sutton Pl, West Chester Township, OH, 45011 to be specific. Their phone number is (513) 771-8212.

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The fact it is their "Product Finishes" and not something like "Automotive Finishes" or a standard retail location might make the difference.

"Metal finishing demands a unique blend of rugged durability and long-lasting aesthetics — and that’s why our metal finishing systems deliver the best of both. Our family of innovative metal finishing products is trusted by metal component manufacturers, tool and die makers, equipment producers, military product manufacturers, agricultural and construction equipment refinishers, and many more. Outstanding primers, attractively functional topcoats, high-gloss finishes, fast-drying solutions, corrosion resistance, and more all come together in our comprehensive line of metal finishing systems."

https://oem.sherwin-williams.com/products/metal/military-coatings/

Maybe try dealing with a "Product Finishes" location directly. Looks like the nearest one to you is Jeffersonville, IN. Not exactly close by...

I can't be the only one that can relate...

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As Ryan said call the nearest Product Finishes location. They will also ship straight to your door for a price as I had to have one shipped to me.

I can completely relate, shopping for the HMMWV is also more fun.

will do fellas.  now to figure out where to put the truck to paint....garage wont be done im sure till end of fall.  current one is too crappy and small to get all around the truck.

yeah, ill wear work boots with giant holes in them and i havent bought socks in years.

but ill spend 30 min researching GMV parts and contemplating numerous body style possibilities for a truck i drive once every 7 days maybe.

someone told me once, "a mans got to have hobbies"

Just got some great news from Dave!

I guess he was doing some troubleshooting and started at the first point, checking power to the trans from Pin E on the harness and found there was no power. He installed a jumper and took the truck on a test drive, said the truck was shifting perfectly!



I'm not sure why there wasn't switched 12v power to Pin E since there is switched 12v to the TCM and, power to Pin E is just a splice into that same lead. But that means it should be a simple fix to rectify the issue with that splice and fortunately I have it documented where that splice is.

VERY good news to hear!

Just do like I did. Go to Harbor Freight and get a big tarp. Tie it to some trees as a shelter and do it under that.

is it weird that im excited and its not my truck?  i think its cause those small hiccups will result in wiring harness 2.0 and thats what will likely be going in my truck.

if i were you id have rushed over tonight.  im betting you did.  im glad to hear it wasnt something major in the internal harness or something serious.

gave my truck 3 days to sit for thread sealant to cure as per the tube.  i bet it only needed 24 hours but i wasnt doing it twice.

fan comes on when its supposed to, stays on about 30 sec and slows back down like normal.  what im not used to are the temps it operates at.  before it would come on anywhere from 195 to 210, stay on 30 sec and go off about 195.  now it pops on about 215 and goes off at 210ish.  not much change from start to finish.  the needle ends up staying about 210-220 during summer highway driving like today.  220 is a bit higher than id like to see but how accurate are these senders and gauges?

fooled around with the d rings in the truckbed and a strap and 3 gascans for awhile trying to find a way to hold them tight so they wouldnt rattle on the trip to town.  ive decided its time to find a surplus way to easily strap about 4 gas cans down when i want.  this time of year i need 5 gallons for mowing and trimming about every other week so ill be making gas runs once in awhile.  im picturing a frame with straps hooked to it, like the ammo can things.  but shaped for jerry cans.  i just want to screw 2 doubles to the inside of the bed or something.

EDIT:  the m1113/4 parts manual shows formed underbody insulation.  i saw it in the table of contents while looking for something else.  Ryan if your insulation up in the body tunnel makes a big difference, i may look into that.  i hear the turbo doghouses offer very little in insulation compared to the NA ones.  did you run anything extra behind that?

I knew there was another shoe to drop. Good thing it's a relatively small shoe.

Dave called me a bit ago so we could talk details instead of trying to do it over text.

He said he noticed the "WAIT" light not coming on, even though the truck was starting and running. It is pretty warm here after all... He was worried about a wider issue.

So after I got off the phone with him I jumped into the -387-24-2 TM to look at the engine harness wiring diagram since I know glow plugs and controller run through that and, I knew the glow plugs were working normally when we were having issues with the truck not starting. Well, what did I find! The 54A/B lead we made a patch wire for does a lot more than just send power to the fuel solenoid.

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As you can see from that junction on the left, there is indeed a lot that comes off of 54B, including glow plugs and the fan clutch circuit.

So at this point, I have 2 options.

1) Install a splice in the engine harness at the point I installed the Packard connectors so I can reinstall the original 54B lead to supply the now missing power and install the patch wire to the IP to bypass the break.
2) Cut open the wire loom on the engine harness and repair the break.

Option 2 will be more work but, since I know the fan circuit and glow plugs were working correctly previously, that narrows the possible problem area down so it shouldn't be too bad.

Not at all and you're right! Mine is kind of a working prototype. I've already seen I need to improve my connector crimps and it looks like splices as well. This military wire to include the Prestolite and Teflon jacketed wire is an odd conductor material. It isn't pure copper wire inside and doesn't take solder as well as copper. This has been my experience and Dave's. Dave has worked for a local telco for years and I have worked electronics for quite a while so we're both used to solder joints. It is higher quality wire overall though and why I prefer to use it instead of regular consumer wire. I just need to improve working with it.

I would have but it's too late for me to make the 45 min drive and we still need to install the hood. I'm going to go over tomorrow after work. I've got some service calls in his area so I can justify it.

It sounds like everything is working 100%. 220 is right where mine tends to kick on at.

Might I suggest an option from much earlier in the thread, and one I haven't had a chance to implement yet?

Go get some E-Track for your rear fender walls. It's not exactly authentic but it is useful. Harbor Freight carries it as does Tractor Supply and others. I picked some up out of a freight van at the local Pull And Save a while back but haven't had a chance to install it. I'm planning on putting two rows in, an upper and lower. You should need less than 48" inches total length. I think it's like 42" IIRC.

It's very versatile and you'll be able to strap down anything with it, especially if you do 2 rows!

You are correct. The turbo doghouse seems to lack the thick rubber insulation the regular doghouse has. I was planning on installing some of my insulation on the doghouse on top of what's already there. It's anchored in there pretty well so it'll just be a matter of cleaning it up and getting the new stuff to stick to it. Also will be installing some on the underside of the hood and possibly the splash guards.

A word of caution, the 6.5TD is much louder than the 6.2 or 6.5NA so don't be surprised when you do fire it up. It has a much sharper clacking noise. I was, honestly, very surprised at the distinct difference between the 6.2 and it. Thought it might be a lack of lubrication on the lifters/rockers but Dave was not concerned.

Heads up from GD! eBay is having another 20% off everything sale until 10pm ET. Minimum purchase $50.

Today Only: 20% Off Everything!*
Celebrate Dad and save with coupon code PICKDADSGIFT. Ends at 7pm PT. Min. $50 purchase

How to redeem your Coupon:
Shop for eligible items. (See below for exclusions).
Pay for your item by 7:00 PM Pacific Time on June 6, 2018
Enter the Coupon code in the redemption code field: PICKDADSGIFT

Terms & Conditions:
This Coupon is a 20% discount off a minimum purchase of $50, valid from 7:00 AM PT June 6, 2018 until 7:00 PM PT on June 6, 2018. Discount applies to the purchase price (excluding shipping, handling, and taxes) of eligible items on eBay.?com, cafr.ebay.?ca and ebay.?ca, and will be capped at a maximum value of $100. *Eligible items exclude warranties and protection plans, as well as items from the Coins & Paper Money, Gift Cards & Coupons, and Real Estate categories.

Coupon must be used within a single transaction (and can include multiple eligible items), while supplies last. Max one-time use. Only eBay users registered with an address located in the United States, Canada, Latin America or the Caribbean are eligible for the Coupon. Valid only for purchases from ebay.com, cafr.ebay.ca and ebay.ca. Any unused difference between the discount amount, as shown on the Coupon, and the purchase price of an item(s) in a single transaction (or cart) will be forfeited.

Coupon is subject to U.S. laws, void where prohibited, not redeemable for cash, has no face value, and cannot be combined with any other Coupon, or when paying with PayPal Credit Easy Payments or Gift Cards. eBay may cancel, amend, or revoke the Coupon at any time.

I can confirm the guest checkout to get additional discounts does work like last time.

I got a brand new fat steering wheel for $95 shipped under my account and then a complete brake pad and rotor change for $275 shipped as a guest.