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Posted: 11/30/2017 9:34:50 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Ryan_Ruck]
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aguas:
https://m.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PT06A-10-2S-SR-2-Pin-Female-Plug/132217252646 this is the link for the 2 pin connector, i took a last look at the mcs side of this connection and the single flat on the female connector is oriented the same way versus the pins. the burden of proof is good enough so i went and ordered one. now the larger connector im not sold on just yet. ill dig a bit more and post the link so you can do the same. im confused about the strain relief, it doesnt seem to have any like most aftermarket plugs. my frankencable may have electrical tape strain relief. edit: http://ecommerce.cdmelectronics.com/cooper-interconnect/M55181-3-01 See page 27 for the part number breakdown. Just helped Jake with this on his LED dome light.  For the 4 pin, I've never taken one of those apart so I have no idea but I'm betting the strain relief on the larger plug is a compression type strain relief that doubles as a seal since it's got that hex head that threads into the body where the cable enters.  Attached FileYou can always put some adhesive lined heat shrink on there and it won't be going anywhere. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 12/1/2017 6:46:47 AM EDT
[#2]
Ryan, thats awesome. another question raised now is the difference in size between say, the battery to radio block cable and cable compression piece on the m55181 (4 pin power plug), and the cable compression on an m55181 plug that houses a smaller diameter cable, like for a cx-13468.
in response to that it looks as if the compression parts and that threaded hex piece are available in different sizes. i guess since my cable wont match the factory outer dimension anyways it probably doesnt matter if the compression stuff is too large. i did find a 'kit' that comes with multiple sizes along with the rest of a m55181 plug, but its about $40 and therefore twice the price of a regular complete plug. so from these schematics and pictures its clear that i can buy my own m55181 and use it. but now i have to ask, and forgive me because i have zero background in electronics, what type of fitting do you have to solder to your stranded conductors to make it fit on the backside of the plug pins? some kind of bayonet connector thing? im anxious to get this thing built, at least its a stop-gap for folks who want a working system but dont need 100% authenticity. for that matter, maybe i can take one of the broken 7 conductor cx-13470s i have in the mail and replace the connectors now that i know where to find them and have an extra highway cable. |
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Posted: 12/1/2017 12:42:31 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aguas:
Ryan, thats awesome. another question raised now is the difference in size between say, the battery to radio block cable and cable compression piece on the m55181 (4 pin power plug), and the cable compression on an m55181 plug that houses a smaller diameter cable, like for a cx-13468. in response to that it looks as if the compression parts and that threaded hex piece are available in different sizes. i guess since my cable wont match the factory outer dimension anyways it probably doesnt matter if the compression stuff is too large. i did find a 'kit' that comes with multiple sizes along with the rest of a m55181 plug, but its about $40 and therefore twice the price of a regular complete plug. so from these schematics and pictures its clear that i can buy my own m55181 and use it. but now i have to ask, and forgive me because i have zero background in electronics, what type of fitting do you have to solder to your stranded conductors to make it fit on the backside of the plug pins? some kind of bayonet connector thing? im anxious to get this thing built, at least its a stop-gap for folks who want a working system but dont need 100% authenticity. for that matter, maybe i can take one of the broken 7 conductor cx-13470s i have in the mail and replace the connectors now that i know where to find them and have an extra highway cable. You could either use a smaller diameter cable and build up the diameter with heat shrink to fit the compression fitting or you could, as mentioned, heat shrink over the whole joint.
Just to show you how versatile heat shrink can be, I got a battery to SINCGARS block cable free from my buddy Dave that he wasn't going to use in his truck. Only problem was the outer sheath on his was fairly dry rotted with the metal braiding visible in a number of spots. Well, I didn't want to trash an otherwise perfectly good (and free!) cable that I definitely needed so I resheathed the entire length of wire with heat shrink! Was a bit of a pain to get the entire length of cable into the heat shrink, and I needed a bit of cable lube, but it ended up looking great! Was a little more stiff but not bad. As for connecting the cable to the pins, on the smaller Amphenol connectors you either directly solder them into the pins or crimp them into the pins (I was mistaken on the screw terminals). I've only ever soldered. Doing some reading on the larger connectors it looks like there are two versions, both solder types. Ones with solder cups and ones with what are called turret terminals, like the one in your picture. The 4 pin ones are only available in turret pins.  Attached FileHere'e how you solder to them:  Soldering Wire & Terminal Connections - Turret Terminal |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 12/1/2017 5:46:16 PM EDT
[#4]
hmmpf. after having watched that i feel stupid for not having thought to try it.
i also had the splitting jacket problem on my battery to block cable. for now, its got a healthy amount of electrical tape on it but once i get the hang of the heatshrink i may go back and redo it. thanks for the help, all. not being able to get the right parts was driving me crazy. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 12/6/2017 7:16:38 AM EDT
[#5]
Received the 2 pin female connector yesterday, waiting on a cable that already has the 4 pin male on it and was cheap and plentiful so i can cannibalize it (im cheating).
it unthreads into 3 separate pieces, has a simple screw tightened strain relief and some gaskets internally. 
as you can see in the photo the solder connections on the pins are hollow so i assume one strips the wire, inserts it and lets solder down inside to complete the connection. i couldnt tell that on the listing photos. i broke down and bought the "broken" cx-13470 highway cables from beltfed only to find that one isn't broken, part of the connector simply worked its way off the threads or another and it went right back on. the other 12' cable has some pins pushed back so it is basically broken. but i can order one of these non-crimp amphenol connectors with 7 pins and replace that. as rare as highway cables seem to be, it may be worth it. i dont need another cable but maybe somebody does? |
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Posted: 12/6/2017 12:20:53 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aguas:
Received the 2 pin female connector yesterday, waiting on a cable that already has the 4 pin male on it and was cheap and plentiful so i can cannibalize it (im cheating). it unthreads into 3 separate pieces, has a simple screw tightened strain relief and some gaskets internally. http://i.imgur.com/x2lsiTD.jpg as you can see in the photo the solder connections on the pins are hollow so i assume one strips the wire, inserts it and lets solder down inside to complete the connection. i couldnt tell that on the listing photos. i broke down and bought the "broken" cx-13470 highway cables from beltfed only to find that one isn't broken, part of the connector simply worked its way off the threads or another and it went right back on. the other 12' cable has some pins pushed back so it is basically broken. but i can order one of these non-crimp amphenol connectors with 7 pins and replace that. as rare as highway cables seem to be, it may be worth it. i dont need another cable but maybe somebody does? |
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Posted: 12/9/2017 1:43:31 PM EDT
[#7]
Has anybody bought some of the 7" Truck lite Mrap LED flood or spot lights? Been thinking of going with a few of these over some of the smaller LED's I have. Reason being is the smaller Arora lights (rigid knockoffs) looks off in some spots where I have them and looking for more military look.
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KY, USA
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Posted: 12/9/2017 7:17:52 PM EDT
[#8]
finally, my donor cable with the 4 pin connector showed up and after much frustration i watched a video on solder cups and voila! frankencable!! i found the pinout and A and B from the 4 pin connector swap by the time they reach the 2 pin connector. im glad i checked that out cause one would assume it went A to A and B to B. i am not used to DC or electronics at all so i dont know what the reverse polarity effect would be on the equipment.
my solder skills were found lacking and the area to work on was so very tiny, but everything powered up and i got a response on the 2nd headset mic. one cant really hear themselves through the earpieces, so wife was required to throw on a coat and scarf and head outside in the dark and snow. success! there is an amount of ambient white noise in the headsets, but i cant remember if thats normal for a vic-3 with the bose gear. will try it out tomorrow and see if it truly was worth all the cost and time when the engine is running. |
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Posted: 12/11/2017 3:19:34 PM EDT
[#9]
Well, it snowed here, almost 2" which is a lot for my area and being so close to the coast. Too cold for me to work in the garage. So while waiting on a mechanic guy I know to help with the engine swap, I got another accessory in. A VSS3 tank light. I now think I am almost good on lights, still looking at the Truck Lite leds to mount in a few places I have the little pods. Picked up a pair to try in various locations.
The VSS3 will go on the turret similar to this setup on g503or eventually a trailer on a pintle mount if I could find the trailers cheap again, seem to have dried up in my area.  Attached File |
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Posted: 12/11/2017 3:38:38 PM EDT
[#10]
Holy hell that is a bright ass light!
Keep it pointed backwards with a dash switch for tailgaters. 
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KY, USA
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Posted: 12/11/2017 5:51:15 PM EDT
[#11]
dang thats a huge ass light! i never saw such a thing but id say it would be nice to have at ECPs.
my rhino mount finally came in. a buddy who was army is coming down to stay on his way through to benning to see another friend graduate infantry officer course, i may borrow him to help mount it but its going to be cold as balls tomorrow so maybe ill wait. |
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Posted: 12/11/2017 6:35:51 PM EDT
[#12]
It isn't as big I as I was expecting which is a good thing. But it is bigger than any other light I have. Now to make the power cable. I think I need Amphenol MS3108B32-5s with a connector for wiring, wire (still need to figure out size) and then attach the other end to a slave plug I already have. @Ryan_Ruck, do those two parts look like all I will need plus wire? Or is there more to an Amphenol plug? There is also a guy on candlepower forums that makes cables, waiting to hear from him too.
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Posted: 12/11/2017 7:46:17 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jake-cutter:
It isn't as big I as I was expecting which is a good thing. But it is bigger than any other light I have. Now to make the power cable. I think I need Amphenol MS3108B32-5s with a connector for wiring, wire (still need to figure out size) and then attach the other end to a slave plug I already have. @Ryan_Ruck, do those two parts look like all I will need plus wire? Or is there more to an Amphenol plug? There is also a guy on candlepower forums that makes cables, waiting to hear from him too.  Wiring and Assembly of DMS Series Connectors from DDK Only thing I wondered about is the rubber bushing. I looked and while there are different size bushings, they only correspond to different size connectors, nothing to correspond to different size cable gauge I can tell. |
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Posted: 12/11/2017 8:18:58 PM EDT
[#14]
 I really wish I had one of these things driving up the hill I live on in my rear wheel drive Crown Vic. Unfortunately, it looks like the NC legislature really screwed the state's humvee owners with a new law that requires the seller to sign an affidavit stating the vehicle complies with highway safety standards (that gov planet won't touch with a 10.5' pole).I'll probably be moving to a new state in six months though. Good news is if I stop compulsively buying guns I should have plenty of cash by then to get the ball rolling.
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Posted: 12/11/2017 8:41:32 PM EDT
[#15]
Ryan, thank you for posting that. I missed those videos in the link I posted. Waiting for a guy on candlepower forums to get back with me on the wire size and possibly assembling the cable for me. Thinking of going with the connector and 5 or 6 feet of wire and then welding quick connectors and then another piece of wire to the slave plug. This way I can make the cable longer or shorter without messing with the Amphenol connector ever again. What do you think?
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Posted: 12/11/2017 9:48:20 PM EDT
[#16]
Originally Posted By Couch-Commando:
I really wish I had one of these things driving up the hill I live on in my rear wheel drive Crown Vic. Unfortunately, it looks like the NC legislature really screwed the state's humvee owners with a new law that requires the seller to sign an affidavit stating the vehicle complies with highway safety standards (that gov planet won't touch with a 10.5' pole).I'll probably be moving to a new state in six months though. Good news is if I stop compulsively buying guns I should have plenty of cash by then to get the ball rolling.
You might be able to find an out of state, private seller that would sign an affidavit (with the addendum that per the NHTSA surplus military vehicles are exempt from FMVSS but meet MIL-STD-1180B standards which are the military equivalent to FMVSS). Or you could get Vermont out of state registration and drive around with VT plates until you move (though I don't know NC's laws on out of state registered vehicles) . Or the more convoluted route would be to buy the truck you want at auction, "sell" it to someone who can then register it out of state with Vermont (they'd have to pay sales tax though), then they could sell it back to you with a signed affidavit and Vermont registration which would satisfy NC. You'd have to pay sales tax like 3 times going that route though (1st when getting the truck from GP, 2nd to VT, 3rd to NC). 
But truth be told, even if you bought the truck now, you still wouldn't have it in your hands for almost 3 months, not including time to get the paperwork which would be a couple weeks later. So, you'd have your truck, unable to drive it for maybe 2 months in NC before you could trailer it to your new state of residence. You would probably be better off spending those 2 months cleaning it up anyway.
Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
Ryan, thank you for posting that. I missed those videos in the link I posted. Waiting for a guy on candlepower forums to get back with me on the wire size and possibly assembling the cable for me. Thinking of going with the connector and 5 or 6 feet of wire and then welding quick connectors and then another piece of wire to the slave plug. This way I can make the cable longer or shorter without messing with the Amphenol connector ever again. What do you think? You might be better off with one of these flat quick disconnect plugs like I used on my slave cable setup: 
Since those rubber bushings on the Amphenol connector are round, something like 6/2 SOOW or SJOOW cable should be good. The outside on that 6/2 is 0.790". Once you've got your Amphenol plug, you could measure the bushing diameter and see how well that would fill it up. |
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Posted: 12/13/2017 5:36:53 PM EDT
[#17]
Found out the light runs at over 100 amps at start up and then settles out at 58 amps. The guys on Candlepower are using the welding quick connects due to the start up amps so I am waiting to see pics of their setups. Two of them have HMMWV's so it will be interesting seeing other setups.
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TN, USA
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Posted: 12/13/2017 8:15:39 PM EDT
[#18]
You just don't see this everyday
https://bham.craigslist.org/cto/d/1995-hummer-h1-mattracks/6399446369.html |
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Posted: 12/13/2017 11:57:40 PM EDT
[#19]
Originally Posted By jake-cutter:
Found out the light runs at over 100 amps at start up and then settles out at 58 amps. The guys on Candlepower are using the welding quick connects due to the start up amps so I am waiting to see pics of their setups. Two of them have HMMWV's so it will be interesting seeing other setups. Those flat quick disconnects should be fine, you just need some heavier duty ones. You could probably still use the 6 AWG cable though since it won't be at peak draw the whole time or you can step it up to 4 AWG. Originally Posted By JohnyRotten:
You just don't see this everyday https://bham.craigslist.org/cto/d/1995-hummer-h1-mattracks/6399446369.html |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 12/15/2017 4:14:53 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bravojmc]
[#20]
Hey guys I haven’t been on for a while been crazy… But I purchased a 2000 M1045A2 From Govplanet a couple days ago. This will be my third Hmmwv Ive owned and first Slant back. Can’t wait to get her picked up!
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KY, USA
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Posted: 12/15/2017 9:48:49 PM EDT
[#21]
that sounds like an awesome truck with overdrive! the slant top is just icing on the cake.
what other details are there? hows the condition seem pre-pickup? |
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Posted: 12/15/2017 10:21:20 PM EDT
[#22]
Congratulations, I am definitely interested to see what parts it comes with and what they removed if anything. I remember seeing a post on Steelsoldiers and it looked like part of the weapons tray and the c pillar was removed which I thought was odd as the c pillar has nothing to do with armor.
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CO, USA
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Posted: 12/15/2017 10:37:51 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jake-cutter:
Congratulations, I am definitely interested to see what parts it comes with and what they removed if anything. I remember seeing a post on Steelsoldiers and it looked like part of the weapons tray and the c pillar was removed which I thought was odd as the c pillar has nothing to do with armor. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 12/16/2017 6:31:05 PM EDT
[#24]
stopped by a friend's today to showoff the A1. he was big in humvees back in the day, but hes into ww2 dodges now.
he recounted the days of buying whole lots of x doors for nothing, so many that they would use some as target practice. oh how times have changed!! he mentioned he has a generator trailer for a humvee he wants to sell me, that could be interesting. its sans-generator but i could use it to haul whatever around. |
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Posted: 12/16/2017 9:21:26 PM EDT
[#25]
Originally Posted By bravojmc:
Hey guys I haven’t been on for a while been crazy… But I purchased a 2000 M1045A2 From Govplanet a couple days ago. This will be my third Hmmwv Ive owned and first Slant back. Can’t wait to get her picked up! Make sure you post some pics when you get her. The other dude that got a 1045 never posted any before he disappeared. 
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CO, USA
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Posted: 12/16/2017 9:48:47 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
Very nice! Make sure you post some pics when you get her. The other dude that got a 1045 never posted any before he disappeared. |
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GA, USA
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Posted: 12/17/2017 10:10:02 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By bravojmc:
Hey guys I haven’t been on for a while been crazy… But I purchased a 2000 M1045A2 From Govplanet a couple days ago. This will be my third Hmmwv Ive owned and first Slant back. Can’t wait to get her picked up! |
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Posted: 12/18/2017 2:50:25 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Ryan_Ruck]
[#28]
Well, if anyone wants to re-engine your truck with a 6.5T and 4L80, here's your chance.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?174610-HMMWV-Complete-Engines-Trans-Transfer-Cases Only $1100 less than what I just paid ($950 if you figure freight) and you get the dual voltage alternator with the correct pulley and a MUCH cleaner pull than the one I got. FML. Damn, I'm pissed now... That extra $950 (back up to $1100 really since I had to spend $150 for the special clutched alternator pulley from 86humv) would have covered what I still need to spend on body mounts, insulation, and other odds and ends with plenty still left over. 
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KY, USA
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Posted: 12/18/2017 6:45:29 AM EDT
[#29]
if it makes you feel a little better, i paid double what 86Humv was asking for a 4 speed shifter assembly because i checked the asking for all the ones available at the time, and bit the bullet thinking they would just go up even more.
the next week greg listed several at like $300. this reminds me that ive got to get back on the 4speed parts buying train. do not wish to do a turbo engine though. |
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Posted: 12/18/2017 3:31:27 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aguas:
if it makes you feel a little better, i paid double what 86Humv was asking for a 4 speed shifter assembly because i checked the asking for all the ones available at the time, and bit the bullet thinking they would just go up even more. the next week greg listed several at like $300. this reminds me that ive got to get back on the 4speed parts buying train. do not wish to do a turbo engine though.
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GA, USA
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Posted: 12/18/2017 6:51:58 PM EDT
[#31]
Sounds like my buddy may have the dreaded Vampire disease - his transmission is extremely low, he's got fluid spilling into the air filter housing and we'll be checking the transfer case this weekend.
I perused through the TM's and didn't see the section on replacing the cooling loop - can anyone provide the section with this tidbit of info? |
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Posted: 12/18/2017 8:20:25 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Ryan_Ruck]
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Lawman734:
Sounds like my buddy may have the dreaded Vampire disease - his transmission is extremely low, he's got fluid spilling into the air filter housing and we'll be checking the transfer case this weekend. I perused through the TM's and didn't see the section on replacing the cooling loop - can anyone provide the section with this tidbit of info? ETA: Nothing in TB 9-2320-335-13&P either. This might help though... http://www.hummerknowledgebase.com/rungear/transfer_case.pdf |
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TN, USA
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Posted: 12/19/2017 6:51:12 PM EDT
[#33]
here too
http://www.flashoffroad.com/features/Tcase/Vampire/vampire.htm |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 12/23/2017 12:49:23 PM EDT
[#34]
the finished product sans wheel. i figured paint on the carrier rest bracket was good enough, so this morning i kicked off my 4 days off with installing the carrier i got from 86Humv. ive always been on the fence about the carrier because i never saw one installed on anything other than an armored vee, but i wanted a spare with me and i didnt want to have it taking up bed space and be so difficult to get out and down by myself. but the other day i saw some guard soft skinned 2 door trucks with rear canvas, bows and rhino carriers so my authenticism is happy! plus we had them on our armored square hatchbacks in iraq so the nostalgia is too much to pass up. and it just looka darn cool. when i got the carrier mounted i went to swing it and test the tailgate (which gets used fequently) and bump! the tailgate wouldnt clear the carrier when it was open 90 degrees to the rear of the truck. the pickup utility of this thing is my foremost concern right now so for a minute i thought id have to list the carrier!  but then i realized a little bracket near the pivot point could be raised with one finger and the carrier would swing past 90 degrees. shew. im not sure if the bracket is supposed to move up and down freely to lock the carrier in from swinging free, or if i should just raise it, tighten the bolt and keep it out of the way. it has to be lifted in order to fold the carrier closed again, too. beyond this i cant figure a purpose for it. 
cant remember if i said this, but the vic-3 lite is up and running nicely with my bastard power cable and a substitute highway cable i found elsewhere. a military friend and i took it out one night and tried it out, laughing our asses off because of nostalgia overload. i painted the Augi box and screwed it down to the sincgars mount as well but i havent tried it out yet. happy humveeing out there, and merry christmas! |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 12/23/2017 2:39:56 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aguas:
http://i.imgur.com/9ujYIiO.jpg the finished product sans wheel. i figured paint on the carrier rest bracket was good enough, so this morning i kicked off my 4 days off with installing the carrier i got from 86Humv. ive always been on the fence about the carrier because i never saw one installed on anything other than an armored vee, but i wanted a spare with me and i didnt want to have it taking up bed space and be so difficult to get out and down by myself. but the other day i saw some guard soft skinned 2 door trucks with rear canvas, bows and rhino carriers so my authenticism is happy! plus we had them on our armored square hatchbacks in iraq so the nostalgia is too much to pass up. and it just looka darn cool. when i got the carrier mounted i went to swing it and test the tailgate (which gets used fequently) and bump! the tailgate wouldnt clear the carrier when it was open 90 degrees to the rear of the truck. the pickup utility of this thing is my foremost concern right now so for a minute i thought id have to list the carrier! http://i.imgur.com/Ygp5HxB.jpg but then i realized a little bracket near the pivot point could be raised with one finger and the carrier would swing past 90 degrees. shew. im not sure if the bracket is supposed to move up and down freely to lock the carrier in from swinging free, or if i should just raise it, tighten the bolt and keep it out of the way. it has to be lifted in order to fold the carrier closed again, too. beyond this i cant figure a purpose for it. http://i.imgur.com/67b6Kay.jpg cant remember if i said this, but the vic-3 lite is up and running nicely with my bastard power cable and a substitute highway cable i found elsewhere. a military friend and i took it out one night and tried it out, laughing our asses off because of nostalgia overload. i painted the Augi box and screwed it down to the sincgars mount as well but i havent tried it out yet. happy humveeing out there, and merry christmas! |
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Posted: 12/23/2017 4:51:57 PM EDT
[#36]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Aguas:
http://i.imgur.com/9ujYIiO.jpg the finished product sans wheel. i figured paint on the carrier rest bracket was good enough, so this morning i kicked off my 4 days off with installing the carrier i got from 86Humv. ive always been on the fence about the carrier because i never saw one installed on anything other than an armored vee, but i wanted a spare with me and i didnt want to have it taking up bed space and be so difficult to get out and down by myself. but the other day i saw some guard soft skinned 2 door trucks with rear canvas, bows and rhino carriers so my authenticism is happy! plus we had them on our armored square hatchbacks in iraq so the nostalgia is too much to pass up. and it just looka darn cool. when i got the carrier mounted i went to swing it and test the tailgate (which gets used fequently) and bump! the tailgate wouldnt clear the carrier when it was open 90 degrees to the rear of the truck. the pickup utility of this thing is my foremost concern right now so for a minute i thought id have to list the carrier! http://i.imgur.com/Ygp5HxB.jpg but then i realized a little bracket near the pivot point could be raised with one finger and the carrier would swing past 90 degrees. shew. im not sure if the bracket is supposed to move up and down freely to lock the carrier in from swinging free, or if i should just raise it, tighten the bolt and keep it out of the way. it has to be lifted in order to fold the carrier closed again, too. beyond this i cant figure a purpose for it. http://i.imgur.com/67b6Kay.jpg cant remember if i said this, but the vic-3 lite is up and running nicely with my bastard power cable and a substitute highway cable i found elsewhere. a military friend and i took it out one night and tried it out, laughing our asses off because of nostalgia overload. i painted the Augi box and screwed it down to the sincgars mount as well but i havent tried it out yet. happy humveeing out there, and merry christmas! And yes that little bracket is supposed to be loose to allow movement. Like bravojmc said you don't want to go swinging it into your body. In fact, maybe put a little grease on it to allow easy movement.I'd also recommend putting some sort of rubber cover or small piece of foam weather strip on the top of the rest bracket so that if you don't have your chains on your tailgate, the tailgate won't mash into the top of the rest bracket and dent. Glad to hear the VIC-3 is working out well! I saw Augi was offering an adapter box that was going to offer PTT functionality for ham radios and the like but I just couldn't justify the $300 especially since I'm not a licensed ham yet. I'll stick to VOX transmission and using my current box. I too would like to wish all my friends and fellow owners here a Merry Christmas as well! 
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IN, USA
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Posted: 12/24/2017 12:30:14 PM EDT
[#37]
Well, it's been a long time since I posted anything on here. I've been avoiding it because the wife has been trying to get me to sell the 998. Thank god no one has been willing to pay what I'm asking.
I finally decided to improve my forward lighting and bought a cheap 30" LED light bar from superbright LEDs. The light is good for up to 24V, but the switch wiring harness is only good for 12V. My question is can I hook the switch up directly to the 12V side of the dual voltage alternator? I don't need to be able to run the light if the humvee isn't running. I want to keep the setup as simple as possible, mainly because I don't like wiring stuff. Eventually this light might get moved to my regular truck or my Crown Vic, once I can get some Mil-spec lighting for the humvee. |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 12/29/2017 7:48:55 AM EDT
[#38]
anyone seen these sincgar trainers? for a static mock-up of a more modern HMMWV radio i think this is about the only way to go. unfortunately this is the first one ive come across and its got a hefty price for a paperweight and its in south korea.
the back of the unit has to be cut out to mate to the radio tray MT-whatever mount, as the ports on the trainer dont mirror the real life radio. https://m.ebay.com/itm/Sincgar-Sincgars-RT-1523-Training-Radio-PRC-119A-Free-shipping/302575918704?hash=item4672ee1e70:g:5WIAAOSwDkVaPjJl |
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GA, USA
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Posted: 12/29/2017 11:14:37 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RedZ06Vette:
Well, it's been a long time since I posted anything on here. I've been avoiding it because the wife has been trying to get me to sell the 998. Thank god no one has been willing to pay what I'm asking. |
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Posted: 12/29/2017 5:24:05 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By RedZ06Vette:
The light is good for up to 24V, but the switch wiring harness is only good for 12V. My question is can I hook the switch up directly to the 12V side of the dual voltage alternator? I don't need to be able to run the light if the humvee isn't running. I want to keep the setup as simple as possible, mainly because I don't like wiring stuff. Eventually this light might get moved to my regular truck or my Crown Vic, once I can get some Mil-spec lighting for the humvee. |
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Posted: 12/29/2017 10:10:29 PM EDT
[#41]
Originally Posted By RedZ06Vette:
Well, it's been a long time since I posted anything on here. I've been avoiding it because the wife has been trying to get me to sell the 998. Thank god no one has been willing to pay what I'm asking. I finally decided to improve my forward lighting and bought a cheap 30" LED light bar from superbright LEDs. The light is good for up to 24V, but the switch wiring harness is only good for 12V. My question is can I hook the switch up directly to the 12V side of the dual voltage alternator? I don't need to be able to run the light if the humvee isn't running. I want to keep the setup as simple as possible, mainly because I don't like wiring stuff. Eventually this light might get moved to my regular truck or my Crown Vic, once I can get some Mil-spec lighting for the humvee. As for the wife, you know the ARFCOM response to her doing something like that...  Attached FileFirst, like Jake said, do you already have the dual volt? If not you can, like he said, get a battery equalizer (of which I have one I can sell you  ) or get a dual volt. Battery equalizer is going to be the cheaper option as most of the 200As seem to be going for big money right now. Honestly though, even if you do have a dual volt, I like having the extra 100A 12v the equalizer gives me since the dual volt is only putting out 50A.
The way I would wire up your lightbar regardless of setup is I would power the light from the 24v side since you're going to have plenty of power on that. Then, since you should be using a relay on it, I would run the switch and relay activation circuit through the 12v side and then run the lightbar power through the relay to the 24v side. I've got kind of the reverse setup with my 12v EGT gauge. It's on a 24v relay tied to a ignition keyed 24v source and then 12v goes from the 12v tap on the alternator regulator (which I do have wired to my rear battery) to the relay to the pyrometer. By the way, the 12v tap will not put out any 12v power unless you have it tied to the battery and it sees the load. Originally Posted By Aguas:
anyone seen these sincgar trainers? for a static mock-up of a more modern HMMWV radio i think this is about the only way to go. unfortunately this is the first one ive come across and its got a hefty price for a paperweight and its in south korea. the back of the unit has to be cut out to mate to the radio tray MT-whatever mount, as the ports on the trainer dont mirror the real life radio. https://m.ebay.com/itm/Sincgar-Sincgars-RT-1523-Training-Radio-PRC-119A-Free-shipping/302575918704?hash=item4672ee1e70:g:5WIAAOSwDkVaPjJl 
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Posted: 12/30/2017 12:07:17 AM EDT
[#42]
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Posted: 12/30/2017 12:21:40 PM EDT
[#43]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FKAM:
Finished the front winch install today. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/455280/DSC00724post-405556.JPG |
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Posted: 12/30/2017 1:13:48 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Ryan_Ruck:
Looks good! Warn .mil winch? |
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Posted: 12/30/2017 3:36:44 PM EDT
[#45]
I wish I would have gotten one of the Warn electric ones for Southern Metals when that had them. Prices are back to being too high and supply seems limited.
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Posted: 12/30/2017 5:47:09 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FKAM]
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jake-cutter:
I wish I would have gotten one of the Warn electric ones for Southern Metals when that had them. Prices are back to being too high and supply seems limited. |
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GA, USA
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Posted: 12/30/2017 9:07:28 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FKAM:
Yup, 12K take off I found on ePay. Have another one I procured from 86hmwv (Greg) for the rear. Still need to find one more bracket for it tho. |
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GA, USA
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Posted: 1/1/2018 4:57:07 PM EDT
[#48]
Fixed "the vampire" my buddy had this weekend, by bypassing the cooler. While it would have been preferred to replace the cooling loop, bypassing was easier and it's proven to be reliable based on feedback from guys like retiredwarhorses, etc. It was an amazingly simple task - 2' of 3/8" hose, 4 hose clamps and an X-acto knife (to help get the old hose off) were all that was needed - we were done in about an hour, including the time it took to get the transfer case back to the appropriate level.
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Posted: 1/4/2018 11:14:37 AM EDT
[#49]
@Ryan_Ruck or anyone else had any chance to play in the cold yet?
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Posted: 1/4/2018 12:23:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Ryan_Ruck]
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By jake-cutter:
@Ryan_Ruck or anyone else had any chance to play in the cold yet? Temp was in the low teens. Truck took a little cranking to kick over, even with an accelerator press to set the cold advance solenoid. Not sure if it was my imagination or not but it seemed like my glow plug cycle may have been a bit short. Been meaning to time it and haven't had a chance. I might have to change out my temp sensor with a spare since it was a used one. Last winter when we had a cold snap in the teens, I went out to start my truck to see how it did and I didn't have to crank nearly as long and remember it kicking over pretty easily. Of course in both cases it still sounded like a bunch of hammers in a steel garbage can until it warmed up.
For the drive itself, in 4H the drive was a bit slow going. Locked the t-case into 4HL and was able to make decent speeds at 30-40MPH on only slightly treated back roads. I noticed the rear had a propensity to want to kick out a bit and I suspect it's because of the excessive camber. Between the bumper, spare carrier, spare, and extra fuel I know I've got enough weight in the back but not enough to straighten the tires out. Since it handles fine on dry and rain wet pavement I was content not to bother with it but with how it was handling on the snow I'm going to be adjusting it. |
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