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Quoted:
Name the ranges where you have shot that have 36 yard target backers. Anyway, all that is good for is to get on paper, followed by correcting the come ups for the range to be shot. Or, an emergency zero when there is not time to do anything else. If you refuse to adjust the sights for different ranges, then understand the maximum point blank range for your rifle and cartridge. Set a personal vertical limit, and then figure out when to hold high and when to hold low, or in the center. https://www.chuckhawks.com/mpbr_hunting.htm The idea of Maximum Point Blank Range is the reason these short range zeroes work for some applications such as hunting or busting dirt clods and hitting steel targets at ranges past rock throwing distances. https://www.backcountrychronicles.com/wp-content/uploads/10-inch-kill-zone.gif View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Idk 50 yard zeros for irons and 100 for magnified optics has always worked for me out to 300 or 400 yards so why change now FYI not being an ass or anything, serious question. Most people seem to like 50. Anyway, all that is good for is to get on paper, followed by correcting the come ups for the range to be shot. Or, an emergency zero when there is not time to do anything else. If you refuse to adjust the sights for different ranges, then understand the maximum point blank range for your rifle and cartridge. Set a personal vertical limit, and then figure out when to hold high and when to hold low, or in the center. https://www.chuckhawks.com/mpbr_hunting.htm The idea of Maximum Point Blank Range is the reason these short range zeroes work for some applications such as hunting or busting dirt clods and hitting steel targets at ranges past rock throwing distances. https://www.backcountrychronicles.com/wp-content/uploads/10-inch-kill-zone.gif |
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25. Yard Zero is the only correct answer . Jesus people get yers heads outta your 4th point o contact
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Quoted: O' and match directors that make you do height over bore shots at 3 or 4 yards with everything but the eye box on an IDPA target whited out as a no shoot should have a special place in hell View Quote |
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I've looked through a couple threads, but can't seem to figure out why people don't seem to like the 36 yard zero. What does the 50 do better? Pic of my rifle operating in the theater of my office. https://i.ibb.co/h7k0fLz/IMG-4657.jpg I may or may not be in nothing but my chest rig. View Quote Imo, the problem with a 36yd zero is that the trajectory peaks at 4.3” around the 160yd mark with 62gr 5.56 ammo vs. a peak of 1.8” also at about 160yds with the same load zeroed at 50yds. With irons, an EOTech or T2 or other RDS I’d rather have POI closer to POA out to about 255yds where drop is 1.8” than the higher peak trajectory of the 36yd zero. |
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Thanks for not taking a selfie in your chest reg! Imo, the problem with a 36yd zero is that the trajectory peaks at 4.3” around the 160yd mark with 62gr 5.56 ammo vs. a peak of 1.8” also at about 160yds with the same load zeroed at 50yds. With irons, an EOTech or T2 or other RDS I’d rather have POI closer to POA out to about 255yds where drop is 1.8” than the higher peak trajectory of the 36yd zero. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I've looked through a couple threads, but can't seem to figure out why people don't seem to like the 36 yard zero. What does the 50 do better? Pic of my rifle operating in the theater of my office. https://i.ibb.co/h7k0fLz/IMG-4657.jpg I may or may not be in nothing but my chest rig. Imo, the problem with a 36yd zero is that the trajectory peaks at 4.3” around the 160yd mark with 62gr 5.56 ammo vs. a peak of 1.8” also at about 160yds with the same load zeroed at 50yds. With irons, an EOTech or T2 or other RDS I’d rather have POI closer to POA out to about 255yds where drop is 1.8” than the higher peak trajectory of the 36yd zero. |
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same here iron and red dots at 50 magnified I zero at 100 and then try the BDC at 300 and fine tune a bit if needed View Quote I like a 50 yard zero because it maintains +/- 2" out to 225-250 yards. Other zeroes are too high at the midpoint (300 yard zero ~ 6" high at 150 yards) for my taste. |
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I've looked through a couple threads, but can't seem to figure out why people don't seem to like the 36 yard zero. What does the 50 do better? View Quote Holdovers past your far zero are also pretty straightforward; drop at 300 isn't anything to worry about on a full man sized target, and the holdover at 400 is easy. Good 50 yard zero, good ammo, decent barrel, and Coke cans are your bitch out to 250 yards with a red dot without too much effort, presuming you can see them. If you are proficient with the 36 yard and happy with it, nothing wrong with it. My A2 irons are all set to 300m zeroes because that's what I learned on. |
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New episode of Law and Order SVU:
"The victim tried to defend herself, but her 36 yard zero didn't hold up to him being at a the distance he was at." |
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36yd zero here. 16" bbl shooting XM855 should hit within 6" of POA from a distance of 0 to 325yds. Hold center mass and squeeze the trigger. Every time. Handy card even fits in the grip!https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/354103/15831864601055603033245781552127_jpg-1299286.JPG View Quote That's why I personally choose to use the 50 yard zero, +/- 2" out to 225-250 yards, and then hold over from there. It's just more intuitive for me, personally. |
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Quoted: Less vertical offset in the middle between your near and far zero. If you want to hit something, say, 5-6" in size, 50 yards is an excellent compromise between the more torso-sized accuracy of the 36 yard or 300m zero and the shorter reach of the 100 yard. Holdovers past your far zero are also pretty straightforward; drop at 300 isn't anything to worry about on a full man sized target, and the holdover at 400 is easy. Good 50 yard zero, good ammo, decent barrel, and Coke cans are your bitch out to 250 yards with a red dot without too much effort, presuming you can see them. If you are proficient with the 36 yard and happy with it, nothing wrong with it. My A2 irons are all set to 300m zeroes because that's what I learned on. View Quote Attached File |
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I like the 50 less than 3" off out to almost 300 yards which is generally within the margin of error for most field positions. The 36 is too much hold under at 100 but would be better with irons and lolipopping.
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I like 36.
Also, you don't have to place a target at 36 in order to zero at 36. |
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Quoted: Less vertical offset in the middle between your near and far zero. If you want to hit something, say, 5-6" in size, 50 yards is an excellent compromise between the more torso-sized accuracy of the 36 yard or 300m zero and the shorter reach of the 100 yard. Holdovers past your far zero are also pretty straightforward; drop at 300 isn't anything to worry about on a full man sized target, and the holdover at 400 is easy. Good 50 yard zero, good ammo, decent barrel, and Coke cans are your bitch out to 250 yards with a red dot without too much effort, presuming you can see them. If you are proficient with the 36 yard and happy with it, nothing wrong with it. My A2 irons are all set to 300m zeroes because that's what I learned on. View Quote |
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I like 36. Also, you don't have to place a target at 36 in order to zero at 36. View Quote https://www.vigilanceelite.com/blogs/vigilance-elite-blogs/36-yard-zero |
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Quoted: This. A hundred yard zero stays in a 6-inch pipe from muzzle to 200 yards. A 50 yard zero extends that to about 250 yards. A 36 yard battle zero goes outside that after only 100 yards. Fine for center of mass on a chest, but not so good within “headshot” range of the natural dispersion of a decent barrel and good Mil-spec ammo. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/475355/6A0CAB03-C517-4FFC-B45C-DBD49178791A_jpe-1299312.JPG View Quote What program is it that lets you create that drop chart? |
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It's not dumb. Look at the impact areas for the different distances your zero will hit at, and use what you think works best for you.
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Tranzformer gets it.
For shits, I plugged in 35 and 37 yards into a ballistic calculator. The spread opened up from that of a 36 yd zero. You want a smaller spread, shoot a faster cartridge. ie. .204 Ruger or .17 HMR. |
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A 36yd zero for a 20" M16 with only irons? Yeah I'll buy that. A 36yd zero for a RDS/LPVO equipped 10.5-16" AR? Bleh. I think context matters. It depends on what you're using and what you're doing with it. View Quote |
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It seems that a lot of people in this thread don't actually know what kind of spread you get with a 36. It's very small all the way out to 300.
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That's what I do. I like a 50 yard zero because it maintains +/- 2" out to 225-250 yards. Other zeroes are too high at the midpoint (300 yard zero ~ 6" high at 150 yards) for my taste. View Quote |
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Quoted: @KalmanPhilter What program is it that lets you create that drop chart? View Quote |
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36 yard zero for a general use carbine is by far the most effective it puts everything into a 4-5" area from 15-300 yards
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It seems that a lot of people in this thread don't actually know what kind of spread you get with a 36. It's very small all the way out to 300. View Quote The 50 yard zero is less than 2" high at midpoint, in exchange for slightly more holdover at 300. That's where I'm personally comfortable. If I'm shooting beyond 300, I hope I'm using my LPVO or ACOG, rather than RDS. |
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I first learned and stuck with the 36yard zero.
I like it and have never messed with it. |
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I like the 36 yard zero I tested: 5" barrel in 5.56 7" barrel in 5.56 16" barrel in 5.56 12.5 " barrel in .308 Once zeroed @36 yards I then shot at 25 yards, 50 yards, 75 yards, & 100 yards The rise and fall was a bit more pronounced on the 5" & 7" but stayed consistent and repeatable. View Quote I literally feel that concussion in my teeth fillings just reading that. |
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Ballistics for my cartridge/rifle with 36yd zero. Attached File
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50 yd zero. Attached File
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I do 50 for everything. If you like 36 go for it. As long as you know your holds/drops it doesn't matter. If you have a BDC like the ACOG follow their procedure. I like the idea of never more than 2.5" off center from 0 - 250 yards and a little hold high (chin/face) for 300. That's not hard to remember. View Quote I use 50/200 for my ARs, except my precision rifles, which are 100 yards. |
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50 yd zero.https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/354103/Screenshot_20200302-165930_Strelok_Pro_j-1299336.JPG View Quote The 36 yard zero is dead on between 300-325, but a 5" holdover at 300 with the 50 yard zero isn't bad, either. It's still within the same accuracy radius of the 36 yard zero at that point. Thanks for posting the charts, btw! It's nice to see them side by side for comparison. |
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Right. Realistically you are more likely to have a target within 200 yards and behind cover, etc., so you should expect a head size target View Quote The current discussion applies more to single-zero red dots or optics with no holdovers in the reticle. The 50 yard zero trades a tighter muzzle to 250 vital zone for needing to know hold-overs at 3-500 range. |
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Quoted: This. The argument that their local range only goes to 25 yards and doesn't have a 36 yard range, is no excuse for not trying it. https://i.imgur.com/XwTwH2n.jpg https://www.vigilanceelite.com/blogs/vigilance-elite-blogs/36-yard-zero View Quote |
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I zero at 100 no matter what the cartridge. Since I never take shots over 175 yds or so that works out just fine for me. As an aside, I cannot stand scopes that have a reticle so cluttered it looks like a wiring diagram for a laptop.
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50 yard irons and red dots. 200 yards for longer range precision rifles. 25 for pistol caliber carbines
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Quoted: If you zero the gun at 25 yards, regardless of the target you shoot, you are zeroing at 25. Holding low/high gives you a rough approximation of what the round should do at that range but you arent zero'ed at that range View Quote Again, using a 36 yard adjusted target at 25 yards does not equal a 25 yard zero. |
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I think what this all boils down to is guys will generally want one of three things.
1. A 50/~200 zero Where spread is about 6" but falls pretty fast much beyond 300. 2. A 36/~300 zero Where spread is about 9" but falls pretty fast much beyond 400. 3. A 100 zero...for what, I'm not sure... |
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If you have 3 moa accuracy and are shooting at 170 yards with you aim point 5” high your shot could be 8” high. That’s a miss on a head or prone target.
I’m much less concerned about >200 which is low probability |
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Quoted: If you zero the gun at 25 yards, regardless of the target you shoot, you are zeroing at 25. Holding low/high gives you a rough approximation of what the round should do at that range but you arent zero'ed at that range View Quote These threads always amaze me when I read the mental gymnastics people engage in . I swear I think that the art of practical riflery has died . |
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I choose 50/200 because it is within my normal shooting ranges. I prefer the slightly tighter group within that range and have to holdover a bit at 300. If my regular shooting took me to 300 yards and my goal was simply an effective hit from 0-300 then I would switch to a 36. It really just depends on what you want/need your rifle to do.
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One example posted in this thread show 5.8" high at 175 yards. That's just too high for comfort for me. The 50 yard zero is less than 2" high at midpoint, in exchange for slightly more holdover at 300. That's where I'm personally comfortable. If I'm shooting beyond 300, I hope I'm using my LPVO or ACOG, rather than RDS. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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It seems that a lot of people in this thread don't actually know what kind of spread you get with a 36. It's very small all the way out to 300. The 50 yard zero is less than 2" high at midpoint, in exchange for slightly more holdover at 300. That's where I'm personally comfortable. If I'm shooting beyond 300, I hope I'm using my LPVO or ACOG, rather than RDS. While in the Army, I attended a 2 day ACOG training course that was taught by one of the two guys employed by Trijicon who's soul job is training the military on the use of Trijicon products. He also helped write the Marine Corps marksmanship doctrine before he retired and went to work for Trijicon. He recommended and taught the 33m (36 yd) zero. In fact, that's the only way to ensure the stadia lines meet up at the appropriate distances on an ACOG. |
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