I dried my Bambu PA6-CF at 70C for 24 hours in a Sunlu S2, then fed it directly out of the dryer into my P1S with hardened .4mm nozzle, and printed this rails down.  I had to add a lot of loops to the support to keep it stuck to the textured PEI plate, and I used more support than I generally would, but my first print failed after about 30 minutes because the supports didn't stay adhered to the bed.  



The frame is the G17 SuperTactical V5 from Cults3D, finished with Aves rails, OEM G17 locking block, Strike Industries LITESLIDE with an OEM Glock slide parts kit and a Combat Armory barrel that I've had laying around for the better part of a decade.  My cheap eBay FCG wouldn't reset in any frame I tried it in, so in went an Arsenal Democracy SWiTCH FCG that I had sitting around.  I had to do some fitting on the top of the frame for the slide to clear everything, but everything is telling me that it should run.  I plan to give it a try tomorrow.

FNG here.

This is how you print a FCG9



Tossed the PLA buffer tube with a metal FCG9 buffer tube adapter and went with a metal magazine catch. Parts bin AR-15 parts with a AUG flash hider. Standard Ender V3 with a .6 hardened nozzle.

Japanese characters mean WASP added in by myself. Emergency tag has a chamber flag when it goes to the range otherwise it lives on the swing swivel.

I printed this 26X frame rails up out of the same Bambu PA6-CF that the double thumb rest G17 was printed from and the results are far superior.   I had always seen people recommend rails down, but every time I print rails up I have a much more functional print.  This one took zero fitting.

I'm getting close to finishing my 3D printed grail gun. I stumbled upon a guy that had some CZ scorpion parts and I bought them for a killer price.  

This gun is what got me to buy a 3D printer. When I saw this I knew 3d printing had come a long way from the liberator days.

Just need the components for my bolt I ordered back in December.

I'm probably going to print a grip and brace next.

Just finished printing these 2
Green one is the Middleton Made Schnitzel and the black one is the Neutron Nick P80 43X
Both are printed on a Creality K1 using Esun PLA+.
Sliced with Orcaslicer and using .01 fuzzy skin

Attached File

The green is a bit translucent, but turned out well.

Need to do some smoothing out, or reduce layer height.

Printed 308 bolt carrier
https://www.reddit.com/r/fosscad/comments/1aj2v7x/should_have_done_this_from_the_start/
Attached File

I've got to ask; what are you using this in? And for what purpose?

Ok i get that the bolt locks to the chamber.. and the direct impingement system means hot gas is not hitting hard like a piston.. but once that chamber opens i just dont see that lasting.

Not my thing, just reposing from those nuts on Reddit to show what's being worked on.

I did not think the BCG would be very successful given the clearances needed for proper function.  The designer was just trying things, he said he was getting more than a few shots.  I would like to see the video from SOTAR reviewing it.

Nah, I've followed the guy's posts on Reddit that made it.  He also tried a AR-15 one.  He's on a crusade to try it until it works or blows up in his face, trying to make an ultra light AR with as many printed parts as possible.  He's also using a solid TPU buffer.

Hand-cranked gatling gun from Reddit
https://www.reddit.com/r/Firearms/comments/1alzjhs/a_mobile_gatling_gun_caw_caw/

Now available on the strange ocean from Nopel
https://old.reddit.com/r/fosscad/comments/1ayvbih/m1337_gatling_gun_beta_version_1_files_uploaded/
In the comments the designer says he is working on a 37mm Hotchkiss-esque thing.

Finally finished my CZ Scorpion. I've wanted one ever since I saw it and it's what made me pull the trigger on a 3D printer.

That is truly excellent. Good work.

For those of you still worried about printed things that are normally metal, you can make your own flamethrower!  (just build pics, no video)
https://old.reddit.com/r/fosscad/comments/1bencts/berd_ninjetics_flamethrower_update/

More teasers from Reddit/fosscad: mortar-style can cannon
https://www.reddit.com/r/fosscad/comments/1cqmvhn/unreleased_mortar_style_can_cannon/

Attached File


Made this guy a while back but the trigger kept giving me problems.  Finally spent some time and redesigned the trigger to work better and so i thought i should actually test it lol.  Actually shoots surprisingly nice.

Attached File


modified on left - different ramp and height of the part that holds the striker, as well as a spring element which acts along with the spring element the frame to reduce the overall difficulty of moving the trigger rearward.

I made some of those for a gun "buyback".
Made a 4" barrel one for myself.

Care to share the file for the trigger?

That's what I was doing also - made a whole batch of them just in case.  3" barrel on that one, and the rest with the stock size to save on materials cost.  

Can you share your trigger?   ETA, did you nix the drop safety?

I've had very good luck with them.  But I'll try it out since I actually like shooting them

M1337 video


Not mine, but I might start a M1337 thread if I get serious about it (more serious than buying 6 cheap AR barrels which I have done)

Nabbed a Ender 3 when they had a sale for $99 not too long ago.
I already do cad so this was a good opportunity for me to get into it.  95% use for parts, testing etc for my small crappy business.
The balance, well, I made a nerf gun

I lost patience waiting for cheap parts kits.i should have been more patience, because I don't really have the time now, but I'll find the time.

Attached File
 

Recession Ruger on Rumble

Keeping track of innovation, just neat stuff that may or may not be practical.  Suppressor that uses the Ruger 10/22 front sight for a mount, no threading needed.  Unlike others I don't see means for marking for a Form 1.
Attached File

What's the benefit of the alloy version?  Have you tried the original version?   How many rounds through them?

The IR laser/illuminator thread got archived I guess, but here the next thing... IR or thermal monocular
https://old.reddit.com/r/fosscad/comments/1f0gfs6/the_cox_cum_cheap_universal_monocular_is_out/

Something I had on the backburner for a while but decided to finish up, a remix of the Invader PDW frame.  Hope to get it printed soon.

Started on the urautau (sp?) today.

Printing handguard as we speak.

Printed the HK style sights though and they are living on my FCG9 for now.



Excellent sights. Even has a range adjustable rear drum. Needs two screws per clamp though and then I would call them perfect.

Signaling device that ignites various blank cartridges
https://old.reddit.com/r/fosscad/comments/1f1omr3/m84_impact_grenade_reusable_with_few_types_of/ Attached File

Break-action shotgun upper for an AR15 lower
https://old.reddit.com/r/fosscad/comments/1f8wflw/thoggler_updates/

No longer felt safe shooting my AP5.  So I'm going to try making it super safe.

Almost at bad as a Harlot.  

Alof's reloading device for break-action shotguns (as seen on C&Rsenal and Forgotten Weapons) reproduced by 3d-printing

https://www.reddit.com/r/fosscad/comments/1fbzr4r/carlofs_reloading_device_an_updated_3dprintable/

Thats awesome.

just noticed the original company was somewhere near me.

Is this your own creation?  I would love to print one if you are willing to share.

Not mine, search ARMP5 V2 on Odysee.

Much appreciated.

Did a print and assembly of the Glock PDW.  Had some annoying warping up near the muzzle area that messes up the brace arm tracks, will have to maybe add some built-in support structures up there for a reprint.  Otherwise mostly fits together and works, just a couple tight spots to work out.  Really like the combo of a slight amount of fuzzy skin + carbon fiber filaments, layer lines are basically imperceivable from the sides.

It really depends on the model.  I usually like to use tree type supports to save on time and material waste, and other things like where to have them and where to not comes from general experience in printing and what not.

One thing for me, I always try to hide supports when I can't avoid them because the surface of the part that builds off them will always be imperfect.  So for something like a Glock frame, I'll print it upside-down so the supports will only be on the inside and hidden after it's complete.

And some popular models made by good designers will include instructions on the settings and print orientations they recommend for best results, so you can use that as a guide a lot of times as well.

Barrel and bolt next.

Helping out with "The Decker .380" beta.  This will be the 4th one I have built and is going to be an 11" pistol build.



Here is a my full length rifle version with an 18" barrel.

I want a glock flux, I guess I need to just get a bamboo to replace my E3P and print in the best filament I can get....

Somehow, mine came out great the first time. I am a little hesitant to test it a bunch because of the controversy. I do want to print more though.

Finally got around to one of the CZAR builds.  After a little chamfering of the RTI barrel, she runs pretty good.  Now I need to buy more 32acp

A long time back i made this guy during my phase of trying ASA.  It's a Tubee..  a design which uses a ciener or cmmg .22 conversion kit in a printed upper with a printed barrel with a .22 liner and a chamber end that fits the conversion kit into it.

Attached File


well during some shooting at the range recently, this happened

Attached File


essentially the rear takedown broke, but imo the cause was a bit complex.  the Tubee design is supposed to be on a hellfire lower, with the removable pins embedded in the fore-end rather than being separate, this has the benefit of adding some connection from the upper to the lower - lifting the pressure point of the front takedown and distributing it to the 2 holes in the pins where they connect.  this has the effect of moving the force, but also creating a pivot point which adds force to the rear pin during firing.  adding to this, the tubee upper is printed on its end with layer lines going up (as seen here, the pin broke at the layer lines due to an upward and rearward force)

so... this being an older gun i thought it time for a redesign.

first up the upper.  to get the layer lines to go in the right direction for strength, the upper has to be printed on its side.  since that isnt practical, i split the upper into 2 and printed each round side up, with a painful amount of support (sorry, no pic).  This also meant raising the rail to create an area in which to create some bolt holes to re-attach the upper back together.  its held at the top under the rail, at the front by the barrel nut, and at the bottom by the lower.  For the handguard - i took the pins off the handguard entirely so this upper could be used on a factory lower if desired (i want it to be a "real" upper).  that means the front pin has to do its job correctly - something the revised print orientation should allow.  I added a 5mm hole in the handguard and upper to allow a pin to ensure rotation of the fore-end doesnt cause un-intended un-winding of the barrel nut.

here's the handguard on the printer also with a painful amount of support, thanks to my use of a cyberpunk type end on the fore-end.  no pain, no gain.

Attached File


next up, the pins.  i made these out of 6061 bar stock as an early milling project, but they were a bit too thick.  had to take almost 2mm off to make the handguard fit, but no worries.  that also removed the awful stainless hardware from the equation for the pin block.  

and there it is.. rebuilt and ready to test, as a complete upper nice and tight, all remade with polymaker ABS.  

Attached File



Attached File

Pin block detail