Posted: 9/22/2026 1:55:57 PM EDT
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I had gotten this 10-5 a few years ago and while it's pretty accurate it had a hitch at the very beginning of the trigger pull. I spent a half hour to clean it up and now it's butter smooth through the entire trigger pull. It was at the front of the trigger where it drops the cylinder stop. Attached File I really enjoy taking these guns apart. |
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Originally Posted By 03RN: I had gotten this 10-5 a few years ago and while it's pretty accurate it had a hitch at the very beginning of the trigger pull. I spent a half hour to clean it up and now it's butter smooth through the entire trigger pull. It was at the front of the trigger where it drops the cylinder stop. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/433221/1000005742_jpg-3831225.JPG I really enjoy taking these guns apart. Did you replace the springs while you were in there. I’ve got several police trade ins that I put in spring kits and love them. |
I suggest we trade a question mark in for a maybe.
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Originally Posted By byron2112: Can you tell us what you did to clean it up There are videos. Also, Kunhausen manual. Just remember, you are smoothing, not removing metal- mostly smoothing machining marks on the frame side. You are using very fine stones, easier to see than explain. It's not hard. The hardest part is being judicious. |
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Originally Posted By PoppaCapp: There are videos. Also, Kunhausen manual. Just remember, you are smoothing, not removing metal- mostly smoothing machining marks on the frame side. You are using very fine stones, easier to see than explain. Originally Posted By PoppaCapp: Originally Posted By byron2112: Can you tell us what you did to clean it up There are videos. Also, Kunhausen manual. Just remember, you are smoothing, not removing metal- mostly smoothing machining marks on the frame side. You are using very fine stones, easier to see than explain. I like using Cratex sticks to do fine polishing once any machining marks have been removed. I usually also polish the rebound slide, where it rides, and the other obvious contact points. Honestly can't remember all the other parts without looking them up, it's been a minute since I've done an action job. |
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Originally Posted By byron2112: Can you tell us what you did to clean it up Smoothed up this edge Attached File With the sideplate off you could watch the hitch happen |
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These are the sticks I use: Q6802 in the F and XF https://www.cratex.com/Products/Rubberized-Abrasives/Blocks-and-Sticks/Oblong-Sticks |
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Originally Posted By 03RN: Eww, spring kits are gross. You dont need to lighten anything. Just smooth it out I must admit, in addition to smoothing, I put a spring kit into my 3" 60. Trigger is awesome, and no light strikes. My K and L revolvers all have stock springs. 
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| My first Smith revolver was a 629. I had a read a bunch about them beforehand, so I tried the "dry fire a bunch" trigger job instead of opening it up or sending it off. I would pull that trigger until my muscles were screaming, to and from work every day and shoot it every day off for about a month. It really did smooth out and my grip strength improved considerably. I have a few now and one has been to a legit gunsmith for an action job. That one is noticeably better than the 629, lol. |
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Originally Posted By BillythePoet: My first Smith revolver was a 629. I had a read a bunch about them beforehand, so I tried the "dry fire a bunch" trigger job instead of opening it up or sending it off. I would pull that trigger until my muscles were screaming, to and from work every day and shoot it every day off for about a month. It really did smooth out and my grip strength improved considerably. I have a few now and one has been to a legit gunsmith for an action job. That one is noticeably better than the 629, lol. How do the cylinder stop notches look on that 629? I'm picturing you dry firing it as fast as humanly possible like a mad man :) I have a 625 that I use for uspsa and steel challenge where there is a lot of rapid fire and have had to peen the notches back into shape several times. |
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Originally Posted By brcarls: How do the cylinder stop notches look on that 629? I'm picturing you dry firing it as fast as humanly possible like a mad man :) I have a 625 that I use for uspsa and steel challenge where there is a lot of rapid fire and have had to peen the notches back into shape several times. They have some deformation, but no effect on timing so far |
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I have seen a couple of 629s that have turned out very nice after being worked on. The thing is you have that huge heavy cylinder with heavy bullets which is way behind from the get go when compared to a K or L frame. Some individual S&W guns can survive having the springs swapped out but some become problem children with light primer hits and such . Make sure one shoots lots of reloads and factory ammo (different brands) to test before counting on reliability . Obviously range use isn't as critical as self protection . Keep track of any factory springs you swap out as sometimes you need to put them back in the gun |
| When my dad bought his 686-2 in the late 80's to use as a duty gun, he had a smith do a trigger job on it. It's been my gun since the late 90's, and it is still as smooth as it ever was. The closest I've come to having a negligent discharge was shooting it in single action. I was on target and getting my breath under control and barely touched the trigger. the single action pull on it is just under two pounds. |
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Ne Desit Virtus (Let Valor Not Fail) - Rakkasan!
"Life is fucking hard. Either get used to taking a few lumps like the rest of us, or buy a fucking helmet and crawl into a corner somewhere." -Me