I'm not going to do it myself, just looking for advice.

We had some wind damage and insurance is going to pay about $12k-$14k. About 35 squares. Currently have ancient 3 tab shingles.
I really want the standing seam metal roof. I got quotes on materials alone at around $10k-$11k. Cheap labor from around $3,600.

Quotes from "official" roofing companies in town= $35k- $36K and that is with just going over the current shingles.

The screw down metal roof materials are like $6500. But I really want the standing seam so we don't have to worry about getting up there and replacing 2000 screws someday.


I can't justify going with the "official" roofing companies for $20k more.

How do I spec the metal roof?
One guy said no underlayment on top of shingles, and then run 1x4s horizontally every two feet and then put the metal roof on.

I thought it would be good to put underlayment on top of the shingles first for added protection. But I guess it isn't necessary? What do y'all think?

Existing shingles need to come off. I'd go with someone who specializes in standing seam roofs.

Rip roof off.
Grace Ice and watershield whole roof.
Install furring.
Install roofing.

Thats what Id do.
I have no experience with metal roofs so ignore me.

Unless your roof just happens to be the perfect size you're probably gonna want to hire someone for this. There's some pretty specialized tools you'd want to buy/rent to do the details right.  

R&R did a standing seam on their shop build. Check out their YT channel to get some ideas of doing metal roofs.

People install metal over shingles all the time. I'm not a fan but it is a thing. You really can't install ice and water shield over shingles. It's just not going to adhere right. If it were me, I'd strip it and Grace the whole thing. Then again, I almost never recommend metal. There are a hundred perpetuated myths about metal roofs and their longevity but the fact is the only thing a metal roof does that a high quality 50 year shingle doesn't do is shed snow.

As far as standing seam... there are a couple of "types" out there. There is a product that comes in pre-formed panels that a very experienced DIY type might be able to take on. The seams snap together. It really depends on the lengths you needs and angles you might have to contend with.

Then there's traditional standing seam. A forming machine rolls out the profile on site and a seam roller crimps two panels together on the roof. It's not a DIY job. The equipment costs more than the roof and you don't learn how to use it in a day. You think you're paying for labor but what you are paying for is expertise and specialized equipment needed to do the job no one else can do.

Quite honestly, your insurance company paid you the depreciated value of a cheap shingle roof. Bottom of the barrel replacement of a shingle roof that size in this market is around $12-13k. There's really no way to get from there to QUALITY standing seam metal without digging deep into your own pocket.

you're in AR, I'd look for a dealer for Central States. They have several hidden fastener options. I roofed my house with it and it's very affordable and nearly bulletproof. If you like to contact me by pm, I can give you some guidance. I've been a contractor for 40 years.

I’d never put a metal roof over shingles in a hot climate.

First you need to decide if you want a traditional commercial crimped standing seem roof.  Or do you want a hidden fastener system such as a snap loc standing seem roof.

Since budget seems to be an issue I’m going to point you in the direction of the snap lock. Just keep in mind that this is installed flat on the roof. So you will need good sheeting, and a water proof membrane under it.  It’s what will replace my roof when it’s time.

Cost goes down to the size and complexity of the roof.

Also I’d call your insurance agent and find out how much more it will cost to insure the structure with a metal roof. It will be an increase.

What slope?  What roof features?  Strictly gable to gable, or are there hips and valleys?  Not only do the complexities add to the labor cost, but they factor into which type of standing seam roof you choose.

McElroy Metal has a roof system that's designed to be installed directly over the existing shingles, with no tearoff or new underlayment needed.  

Good points:  Cheaper because there's no tearoff labor or trash disposal.  Concealed fasteners.  1 3/8" seam height MIGHT be more aesthetically pleasing than higher or lower seam heights.  Having the roof panels raised up off the shingled surface leaves an air gap from the eave to the ridge.  In the daytime, the metal panels heat up, but the hot air vents out the ridge.  This keeps the underlying shingles and decking cooler, which may reduce your summertime cooling costs.

Bad points:  Not tearing the shingles off means that you haven't inspected the existing roof sheathing for deficiencies.  You also haven't re-nailed the existing decking to bring it up to more stringent code requirements (if needed).

Depending on circumstances, it's USUALLY better to tear off the old roof before you put the new roof on.  The main reason is to check the roof sheathing as I've noted above.  If you do choose a full tearoff, I prefer drying the roof in with a 15# felt before installing a quality self-adhesive, high-temp underlayment like Carlisle WIP 300 HT (my personal choice over any of the Grace lineup of products).  Whether you choose a full tearoff or a roof recover, this is not something a layman should consider DIY-ing (unless they have a lot of experience, or have friends with a lot of experience that will donate their time and expertise).  

Something I recommend to people is to go to your local metal roofing supply stores and ask them what standing seam roofs they sell the most of.  You can also get recommendations on local roofers that have a good reputation.  The worst thing in the world is to just call a dozen roofers and say, "What do you recommend?"  You'll get a dozen different answers, and then it's up to YOU to try and decide which one of these roofers will not only give you the best product for you needs, but also give you the best installation.  If you go into it with a good idea of what you want, then you're more likely to get more apples-to-apples quotes.

If done right, screws won't be an issue for 10-15+ years...but the key is making sure every single fastener is screwed through whatever the roof material is (plywood, OSB, etc) and into an actual rafter.  Not quite as important, but still worth noting, is making sure they're not over-torqued.  The latter isn't too much of an issue with clutched drivers, but the former is damn near impossible if shingles are still in place.  Now, you do have the option of running furring strips over the shingles, which does give you some more options.

Here's the if-it-were-me.

Rip off old shingles, inspect decking.  Repair or replace as necessary.

Synthetic underlayment.  I used Titanium UDL 50.

Screw-down metal roof.  Yes, the screws can leak if they're improperly installed.  So you make sure they're installed properly.  Easier to do on a DIY job, but a crew that knows what they're doing can do it right too - especially if they know you're going to be looking.

Standing seam is nice, but yah it comes at a premium.  Just depends on how deep you're willing to dive into the pocketbook.

How complex is the roof?  Lots of hips and valleys?  The real savings comes in if you can possibly DIY.  I've installed both standing seam and screw-down types, and I think either one is within the grasp of any halfway competent handyman that isn't afraid of heights, if it's a straightforward installation.  And you know the screws were driven in straight.

I understand your problem with replacing 200 screws, as I just finished doing the same thing.
I was talking to the Morton Building guys about this, and they said that their screws now have EPDM washers so that they will last longer.
See if you can get the screws from Morton Buildings, and you won't have to worry about the 'Screw Swap' in 18 years.