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Posted: 10/16/2016 10:49:42 AM EST
[#1]
I have an update on my build... after a bunch of hand cycling the action has smoothed out and the cycling is pretty reliable now. But this has introduced a new problem...
If I fully cycle the action so the slide moves all the way back until it stops and then completely returns to battery, when I pull the trigger I only get a click. If I short stroke it so that I pull the slide back about an inch and then it returns to battery (possibly with a little help), when I pull the trigger the striker fires and I get a bang. It seems really strange to me that I would get better performance when the slide doesn't go through its full range of motion. EDIT: With a little bit more testing, it seems that the striker fire more reliably with the muzzle pointed up. It works maybe 80-90% of the time. With the muzzle pointed down it fires maybe 10% of the time. What's so loose that it would be affected by gravity? Any idea what would cause this? |
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Posted: 10/16/2016 4:50:40 PM EST
[#2]
How's your firing pin block and respective groove on the firing pin look?
You did ensure your slide has a pin channel liner as well...right? |
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Posted: 10/17/2016 12:41:48 AM EST
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
How's your firing pin block and respective groove on the firing pin look? You did ensure your slide has a pin channel liner as well...right? I'm using an unmodified OEM Glock slide assembly that works fine on the original frame, so I've been assuming that it's all good. What am I looking for on the block on pin itself? I don't see any unusual wear, but I do have a bit of oil on everything so it's hard to tell if there's anything lightly rubbing. I should mention that I added the credit card shims and the firing pin releases much more reliably now. However, my failure to go into battery returned. The slide stops about 0.5" from full travel. If I slam it home by hand then everything seems to work. One other interesting thing I noticed... if I hold the trigger back while I cycle the slide then release the trigger, it fires. I believe the trigger should reset but not fire. I assume that's a clue as to what's hanging up on the slide. |
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Posted: 10/17/2016 1:11:15 AM EST
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm using an unmodified OEM Glock slide assembly that works fine on the original frame, so I've been assuming that it's all good. What am I looking for on the block on pin itself? I don't see any unusual wear, but I do have a bit of oil on everything so it's hard to tell if there's anything lightly rubbing. I should mention that I added the credit card shims and the firing pin releases much more reliably now. However, my failure to go into battery returned. The slide stops about 0.5" from full travel. If I slam it home by hand then everything seems to work. One other interesting thing I noticed... if I hold the trigger back while I cycle the slide then release the trigger, it fires. I believe the trigger should reset but not fire. I assume that's a clue as to what's hanging up on the slide. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: How's your firing pin block and respective groove on the firing pin look? You did ensure your slide has a pin channel liner as well...right? I'm using an unmodified OEM Glock slide assembly that works fine on the original frame, so I've been assuming that it's all good. What am I looking for on the block on pin itself? I don't see any unusual wear, but I do have a bit of oil on everything so it's hard to tell if there's anything lightly rubbing. I should mention that I added the credit card shims and the firing pin releases much more reliably now. However, my failure to go into battery returned. The slide stops about 0.5" from full travel. If I slam it home by hand then everything seems to work. One other interesting thing I noticed... if I hold the trigger back while I cycle the slide then release the trigger, it fires. I believe the trigger should reset but not fire. I assume that's a clue as to what's hanging up on the slide. |
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Posted: 10/24/2016 10:10:31 PM EST
[#5]
Finally went ahead and bought the parts for my build. I'm going with a 22 slide and a threaded 9mm conversion barrel, since 22 slides are on closeout which saves me about thirty-five bucks compared to what the new slides are expected to go for. I was planning to do a 34 but with me being a sucker for a good deal, standard length will do just fine.
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Posted: 10/26/2016 8:57:43 AM EST
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Snip On the G22 I have a feeding problem. The trigger works but I can't get a found to feed. It holds the slide out of battery. If I hold it over horizontally (gangster-style) and cycle the slide by hand it will feed. But just that one round. It won't feed a second. Of course, trigger works in this frame and the slide cycles smoothly through its whole range of operation. The pins are very tight (I used the included standard-size drill bits). Is it possible something's binding and that's what's causing my problems? Any ideas? I took a tiny bit off of the top of the ejector on mine and that helped. |
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Posted: 10/27/2016 9:10:02 PM EST
[#7]
Midway flyer came today and it mentioned the frames were on sale.
You have to go to their site for pricing. They only have black in stock, but at 99.99 each (limit one), this sure is tempting. |
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Posted: 10/27/2016 9:25:47 PM EST
[#8]
Thanks for the heads-up. Too good a price to pass up.
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Posted: 10/28/2016 10:06:36 PM EST
[#9]
Updated first reply with instructions to assemble slide.
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Posted: 10/29/2016 6:12:02 PM EST
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
They only have black in stock, but at 99.99 each (limit one), this sure is tempting. Search for and add the ink refill for the BaliYo pen to your cart. Total with shipping will drop to essentially $103.00. |
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Posted: 10/29/2016 7:37:12 PM EST
[#11]
Anyone had issues with either of these?
1. Magazine release spring: using a factory Glock spring and it just feels like it doesn't have enough power to return the release...very tough to work compared to my factory g17 gen3. 2. Takedown spring: it seems like I cannot get the spring down into the grooves far enough to allow the takedown lever to slide into place |
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Posted: 10/30/2016 8:14:38 AM EST
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
1. Magazine release spring: using a factory Glock spring and it just feels like it doesn't have enough power to return the release...very tough to work compared to my factory g17 gen3. Had it on the first one I built. The hole can be a little small. Hit all sides except the button with a belt sander and it'll fit. If you want to be more surgical, I'm sure you could use some kind of marking dye to see where its binding. |
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Posted: 10/31/2016 10:12:24 AM EST
[#13]
I did a bit of filing and sanding on my mag release to get it to function smooth. Still a little tight and sticky, but mags drop easily. Takedown lever and spring was a pain to get in.
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Posted: 10/31/2016 1:09:32 PM EST
[#14]
So I went from a failure to return to battery to a failure to fire. The slide was getting held up on the last few thousands of travel with the trigger pulled to the rear. I took off material and it helped the slide return to battery, but , not 100%. Now I think I took off too much and the gun won't fire. I milled the rails undersized and filled them to be coplanar with the front rails. Slide moves freely without the trigger pulled to the rear. Pull the trigger and cycle the slide, failure to return to battery. I was told to grind the hump on the trigger bar and I took too much off before it even fixed the return to battery problem. I'm using ALL Glock OEM parts for ease.
So on my frame I have the following problems: 1) Warped rail section - at least 0.020" warped downwards; cleaned up perfectly in the front and cut into frame at the back. Looks terrible with a slide on it 2) Had to shim the trigger housing to get the slide to cycle. There's still some movement 3) Had to grind down the trigger bar to not grind on the slide while cycling 4) Had to grind down the back of the frame to allow the striker to move freely 5) Had to file down the screws for the locking block because they were too long 6) Ground down hump on trigger bar that engages the striker safety to get the slide to return to battery; that failed I'm about to say fuck it and part it out. The geometry on their frames is all out of wack if they're telling customers to cut up credit cards to use as shims. Sure as shit not spending another $100+ on a range toy. |
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Posted: 11/1/2016 4:58:31 AM EST
[#15]
yep it must be the product.
I mean no one has gotten one to work Oh wait most peoples run perfectly fine. |
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Posted: 11/1/2016 11:15:15 AM EST
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: yep it must be the product.
I mean no one has gotten one to work Oh wait most peoples run perfectly fine. That's the most helpful post I've seen so far in this thread. You should start charging for your advice. |
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Posted: 11/1/2016 2:18:48 PM EST
[#17]
Good advice but your post tops my post
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That's the most helpful post I've seen so far in this thread. You should start charging for your advice. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted: yep it must be the product.
I mean no one has gotten one to work Oh wait most peoples run perfectly fine. That's the most helpful post I've seen so far in this thread. You should start charging for your advice. |
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Posted: 11/1/2016 4:20:56 PM EST
[#18]
Built mine, only able to put 50 rounds through mine but not a single issue with firing at all. I have noticed the trigger feels a little sticky compared to all my other glocks but with so few rounds I can't put judgement on it, and I have to tap the mag pretty hard or else you can dig it out with your finger or it may pop out with the slide home and inserting a full mag. If you hit the bottom of the mag hard after you insert it, it wont come out, I think the slide release is a little too big and isnt returning fully. Its the only LWD part on the gun. Other than that it was pretty fun to build
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Posted: 11/7/2016 8:06:44 AM EST
[#19]
Well the more I shoot mine the less flaws with battery and cycling i've had. Lonewolf parts inherently have a boat load of their own problems one must factor into the equation if they are using them.. slowly getting rid of mine. The next issue I'll add to this forum, my magazine drops out randomly. Locks in when slammed in. have tried many, including friends. finger completely away from release. Bang, click. Mag on ground. Again, bang, click. drops mag after each cycle unless held in by your second hand..... makes no sense to me. I mean, theres only the button, and the spring. pretty basic, i've not modded any of it. These kits are getting cheaper for a reason. My jig was warped upon arrival. I'm going remove my parts and just swap into a glock frame i think. Its more of show piece at the range then trying to come up with an explanation as to why it has so many malfunctions. I'm undecided on what I'll do.
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Posted: 11/7/2016 9:03:34 AM EST
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Well the more I shoot mine the less flaws with battery and cycling i've had. Lonewolf parts inherently have a boat load of their own problems one must factor into the equation if they are using them.. slowly getting rid of mine. The next issue I'll add to this forum, my magazine drops out randomly. Locks in when slammed in. have tried many, including friends. finger completely away from release. Bang, click. Mag on ground. Again, bang, click. drops mag after each cycle unless held in by your second hand..... makes no sense to me. I mean, theres only the button, and the spring. pretty basic, i've not modded any of it. These kits are getting cheaper for a reason. My jig was warped upon arrival. I'm going remove my parts and just swap into a glock frame i think. Its more of show piece at the range then trying to come up with an explanation as to why it has so many malfunctions. I'm undecided on what I'll do. The mag drop is a common report. Check to see if your mag release is sitting proud of the frame on the right side. If so, remove very little material from the frame until it sits flush. ETA: I went with ZERO Lone Wolf parts. Read too many reports of issues, the gun running trumps the "zero Glock" Glock for me.I used factory internals except where I wanted "performance" parts, mainly the trigger, connector and mag/ slide releases. |
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Posted: 11/7/2016 3:13:27 PM EST
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I went with ZERO Lone Wolf parts. Read too many reports of issues, the gun running trumps the "zero Glock" Glock for me.I used factory internals except where I wanted "performance" parts, mainly the trigger, connector and mag/ slide releases. Yeah I'm having trouble with the LWD extractor on mine. Runs fine when shooting (for now), but cycling by hand it doesn't even touch the spent casing. When I swap in an OEM extractor it runs fine, but here's the really weird part: the LWD extractor works fine in my factory Glock. I could probably just leave them swapped, but I'm not comfortable running parts that only work conditionally. Most likely gonna send it back for a refund and buy OEM. |
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Posted: 11/9/2016 1:07:13 PM EST
[#22]
Anybody want to buy a complete Lonewold glock 24 upper? comes with 6" 40 s&w and 6" 357 sig barrel and the solid top stainless longslide. I decided to dump my money into a .375 ruger and a reloading setup for it. The spectre was fun but shooting really big rocks and making them into really small ones is more fun :-) less headache too lol
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Posted: 11/10/2016 6:46:43 PM EST
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
These kits are getting cheaper for a reason. My jig was warped upon arrival. I'm going remove my parts and just swap into a glock frame i think. Its more of show piece at the range then trying to come up with an explanation as to why it has so many malfunctions. I'm undecided on what I'll do. Was yours from early production with the old box? The surface plate and Mitutoyo linear height gage I used in Inspection at work proved my frame was warped. More than 0.050". You don't need a $7,000 machine to see that on the forend. Nor should you have to shim your frame with a gift card. Did everyone have the huge chip in the interior of their frame? Polymer 80: Fix this before making the 19. And return your calls please. |
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Posted: 11/10/2016 6:55:27 PM EST
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Anybody want to buy a complete Lonewold glock 24 upper? comes with 6" 40 s&w and 6" 357 sig barrel and the solid top stainless longslide. I decided to dump my money into a .375 ruger and a reloading setup for it. The spectre was fun but shooting really big rocks and making them into really small ones is more fun :-) less headache too lol This is not the place to sell items. Post in the EE forum. |
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Posted: 11/10/2016 7:26:49 PM EST
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Was yours from early production with the old box? The surface plate and Mitutoyo linear height gage I used in Inspection at work proved my frame was warped. More than 0.050". You don't need a $7,000 machine to see that on the forend. Nor should you have to shim your frame with a gift card. Did everyone have the huge chip in the interior of their frame? Polymer 80: Fix this before making the 19. And return your calls please. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
These kits are getting cheaper for a reason. My jig was warped upon arrival. I'm going remove my parts and just swap into a glock frame i think. Its more of show piece at the range then trying to come up with an explanation as to why it has so many malfunctions. I'm undecided on what I'll do. Was yours from early production with the old box? The surface plate and Mitutoyo linear height gage I used in Inspection at work proved my frame was warped. More than 0.050". You don't need a $7,000 machine to see that on the forend. Nor should you have to shim your frame with a gift card. Did everyone have the huge chip in the interior of their frame? Polymer 80: Fix this before making the 19. And return your calls please. Email [email protected] with photos. My Jig from midway was warped and they sent me a new one out yesterday after I emailed them photos. |
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Posted: 11/10/2016 8:41:57 PM EST
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
This is not the place to sell items. Post in the EE forum. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Anybody want to buy a complete Lonewold glock 24 upper? comes with 6" 40 s&w and 6" 357 sig barrel and the solid top stainless longslide. I decided to dump my money into a .375 ruger and a reloading setup for it. The spectre was fun but shooting really big rocks and making them into really small ones is more fun :-) less headache too lol This is not the place to sell items. Post in the EE forum. It was a light hearted joke lol i sell all my guns and toys on facebook, just to piss off the liberals and authoritarians. End result and thought on the whole project and $900 later? Go buy a factory glock. Done. |
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Posted: 11/10/2016 8:44:10 PM EST
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Email [email protected] with photos. My Jig from midway was warped and they sent me a new one out yesterday after I emailed them photos. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
These kits are getting cheaper for a reason. My jig was warped upon arrival. I'm going remove my parts and just swap into a glock frame i think. Its more of show piece at the range then trying to come up with an explanation as to why it has so many malfunctions. I'm undecided on what I'll do. Was yours from early production with the old box? The surface plate and Mitutoyo linear height gage I used in Inspection at work proved my frame was warped. More than 0.050". You don't need a $7,000 machine to see that on the forend. Nor should you have to shim your frame with a gift card. Did everyone have the huge chip in the interior of their frame? Polymer 80: Fix this before making the 19. And return your calls please. Email [email protected] with photos. My Jig from midway was warped and they sent me a new one out yesterday after I emailed them photos. Already done with it. Mine came in no box... came loose in a usps box with all the parts still new, taped to it.... thought it was a rather lousy job of packaging their product. |
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Posted: 11/10/2016 9:39:03 PM EST
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Already done with it. Mine came in no box... came loose in a usps box with all the parts still new, taped to it.... thought it was a rather lousy job of packaging their product. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
These kits are getting cheaper for a reason. My jig was warped upon arrival. I'm going remove my parts and just swap into a glock frame i think. Its more of show piece at the range then trying to come up with an explanation as to why it has so many malfunctions. I'm undecided on what I'll do. Was yours from early production with the old box? The surface plate and Mitutoyo linear height gage I used in Inspection at work proved my frame was warped. More than 0.050". You don't need a $7,000 machine to see that on the forend. Nor should you have to shim your frame with a gift card. Did everyone have the huge chip in the interior of their frame? Polymer 80: Fix this before making the 19. And return your calls please. Email [email protected] with photos. My Jig from midway was warped and they sent me a new one out yesterday after I emailed them photos. Already done with it. Mine came in no box... came loose in a usps box with all the parts still new, taped to it.... thought it was a rather lousy job of packaging their product. They have a retail pack box that they ship in now but as I noted, my Jig was warped. When I squeezed one end together, the other end opened up. 
I'll update when the replacement shows up. |
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Posted: 11/10/2016 9:44:56 PM EST
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted: They have a retail pack box that they ship in now but as I noted, my Jig was warped. When I squeezed one end together, the other end opened up. http://i65.tinypic.com/24x06mx.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/2079d10.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/8z1kdz.jpg http://i64.tinypic.com/t7iwt2.jpg I'll update when the replacement shows up. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: These kits are getting cheaper for a reason. My jig was warped upon arrival. I'm going remove my parts and just swap into a glock frame i think. Its more of show piece at the range then trying to come up with an explanation as to why it has so many malfunctions. I'm undecided on what I'll do. Was yours from early production with the old box? The surface plate and Mitutoyo linear height gage I used in Inspection at work proved my frame was warped. More than 0.050". You don't need a $7,000 machine to see that on the forend. Nor should you have to shim your frame with a gift card. Did everyone have the huge chip in the interior of their frame? Polymer 80: Fix this before making the 19. And return your calls please. Email [email protected] with photos. My Jig from midway was warped and they sent me a new one out yesterday after I emailed them photos. Already done with it. Mine came in no box... came loose in a usps box with all the parts still new, taped to it.... thought it was a rather lousy job of packaging their product. They have a retail pack box that they ship in now but as I noted, my Jig was warped. When I squeezed one end together, the other end opened up. http://i65.tinypic.com/24x06mx.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/2079d10.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/8z1kdz.jpg http://i64.tinypic.com/t7iwt2.jpg I'll update when the replacement shows up. |
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Posted: 11/11/2016 1:12:25 AM EST
[#30]
My jig was like that, not as much warpage. It's not an issue, I used a couple of spring loaded clamps to hold it closed and did the work. Honestly, the front rails and barrel channel don't even need the jig. As long as your pin holes line up you'll be ok.
I won't be building another one though when they release the 19 frame. I ran into some geometry issues after assembly, I used ZEV v4 race connector, Hyve Technologies gen3 17 slide and overwatch precision flat trigger, it would release the striker upon reset with the trigger held back(would allow fire on pull and release had I tested with live ammo). A buddy called it and said the slide riding high would possibly allow that. If you push on the rear of the slide downward it'll reset and pass all safeties. I took out the connector and trigger and replaced with factory Gen4 trigger bar/trigger and 5.5lb connector, zero issues now. I may try another different trigger and connector down the road. First I'm just gonna put a bunch of rounds through it. To make sure none of the after market parts were the issue, I threw them in a gen4 35 and a gen4 19. All parts work on factory frames and/or with factory slides. Maybe a stacking of tolerances issue. |
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Posted: 11/11/2016 2:29:43 AM EST
[#31]
Unless it's disabling the firing pin block it won't fire on release. My Zev trigger did the same thing in a Glock frame. And it disabled the firing pin block.
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Posted: 11/11/2016 6:42:18 AM EST
[#32]
It was a great idea. But I really think Polymer80 needs to get on her and read all of this and make small tweaks to refine their product before it gets a Hi-Point reputation.... they have the right idea, they are still new enough, they need to revise it.
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Posted: 11/11/2016 11:57:31 AM EST
[#33]
Has anyone bought the white frame? How white is it? Pure white? Cream? Tan?
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Posted: 11/11/2016 3:42:18 PM EST
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Has anyone bought the white frame? How white is it? Pure white? Cream? Tan? |
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Posted: 11/14/2016 7:36:11 AM EST
[#35]
got my stippling kit in and after a few test runs this is what i ended up with, OTD waffle tip made things fast, used a fairly light pressure and its very "grippy"
have a few touch up areas to do still 
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Posted: 11/14/2016 10:24:02 AM EST
[#36]
My replacement jig showed up.
Looks a lot better. As pictured above the first one had about 1/4 gap on one end and closed flat on the other. |
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Posted: 11/14/2016 11:51:44 AM EST
[#37]
http://share.pho.to/ASzK8/original
Very happy with this project. I used Dremel mostly along with small files and 600 sand paper. Shoots great. Need a sight tool now for small adjustments. |
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Posted: 11/18/2016 7:00:55 PM EST
[#38]
Making some progress...still need to get the mag release functioning better and break it in at the range I stripped my factory g17 and moved all of its internals to this project
Ill take the g17 frame and build it out into a g34 with RMR eventually 
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Posted: 11/19/2016 11:47:58 PM EST
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You couldn't just put it in a vice and call it good? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
They have a retail pack box that they ship in now but as I noted, my Jig was warped. When I squeezed one end together, the other end opened up. http://i65.tinypic.com/24x06mx.jpg http://i67.tinypic.com/2079d10.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/8z1kdz.jpg http://i64.tinypic.com/t7iwt2.jpg I'll update when the replacement shows up. I got one and found that the jig had similar warping issues. It looked like the jig fit around the frame OK when I squeezed it closed though. I'm not knowledgeable about plastic molding but it kinda looked like the jig pieces were still slightly soft when they came out of the mold and the cooling process made them warp. I clamped the jig in place with C clamps so there were no gaps where the jig halves met and drilled holes through it so I could bolt the jig shut before starting work. This made it very handy for drilling the pin holes since I used a hand held drill for the task. It took maybe 2 minutes (at most) to drill the pin holes with the jig bolted together since I didn't have to mess with a vise. I did mine using vise, hand held drill, Dremel, and hand tools (needle files and Swiss Army knife). No report on how it works until my slide assembly and frame parts arrive but so far I expect mine to work since I'm not using any aftermarket trigger or striker parts. |
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Posted: 11/23/2016 12:25:11 PM EST
[#40]
Having some issues with my frame that seem pretty serious. At first when I would pull the trigger, the striker would release late or sometimes not until after several pulls. Tried shimming the trigger housing which made it not release at all, so I had to lock the slide back and take off the cover plate and pull out the striker before I could remove the slide. Now the slide won't come off the frame at all, feels like something is catching and I can't get it more than an inch or so forward of the frame. Any ideas what could be wrong and how to fix it?
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Posted: 11/23/2016 2:21:43 PM EST
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Having some issues with my frame that seem pretty serious. At first when I would pull the trigger, the striker would release late or sometimes not until after several pulls. Tried shimming the trigger housing which made it not release at all, so I had to lock the slide back and take off the cover plate and pull out the striker before I could remove the slide. Now the slide won't come off the frame at all, feels like something is catching and I can't get it more than an inch or so forward of the frame. Any ideas what could be wrong and how to fix it? Sounds like you're locking block. How hard is it to use the slide releases? |
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Posted: 11/24/2016 4:01:43 AM EST
[#42]
Slide assembly and trigger parts came in. I used a Glock 22 slide assembly and replaced the .40 S&W barrel with a 9mm conversion from Storm Lake since I don't have any Glock 22 magazines or .40 S&W ammunition in inventory.
I had heard that inserting the pins is difficult because the drill bits Polymer 80 provides with the kit aren't metric - and I had the same difficulties. The drill bits provided are just a little bit too small and the holes provide an excessively tight fit for the pins. I bashed on pins quite a bit when installing trigger parts. I found that my trigger wouldn't reset if the slide is let forward gently - but it works when the slide goes forward with full force. I pulled apart the trigger assembly and reassembled it several times trying to figure out what I did wrong since I have no familiarity with the Glock mechanism. I test fired about 9 rounds through the pistol with no issues but did not have time today for more extensive testing. Slide locked back on empty magazines with no problem. The trigger pull was not especially good but I'm using stock parts so that's probably why. |
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Posted: 11/24/2016 11:07:56 AM EST
[#43]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I had heard that inserting the pins is difficult because the drill bits Polymer 80 provides with the kit aren't metric - and I had the same difficulties. The drill bits provided are just a little bit too small and the holes provide an excessively tight fit for the pins. I bashed on pins quite a bit when installing trigger parts. Once you've drilled the trigger holes, make a few passes back and forth with the bit removed from the drill. Hammer it through from one side, then the other. The holes will loosen up, fractionally. Having done this, I can hammer the pins in and out with only slightly more difficulty than my Glock 20. |
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Posted: 11/24/2016 2:03:48 PM EST
[#44]
I'll try that if I pull it apart with the drill bits handy. I messed up one of the pins so I'll probably replace it at some point. At least those suckers aren't coming out by themselves.
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Posted: 11/25/2016 12:54:30 PM EST
[#45]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Sounds like you're locking block. How hard is it to use the slide releases? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Having some issues with my frame that seem pretty serious. At first when I would pull the trigger, the striker would release late or sometimes not until after several pulls. Tried shimming the trigger housing which made it not release at all, so I had to lock the slide back and take off the cover plate and pull out the striker before I could remove the slide. Now the slide won't come off the frame at all, feels like something is catching and I can't get it more than an inch or so forward of the frame. Any ideas what could be wrong and how to fix it? Sounds like you're locking block. How hard is it to use the slide releases? Still learning the lingo so I'm not sure if slide release means slide lock or slide stop, but both seem to be working fine. I do think you might be right about it being related to the locking block though, it looks like I might've filed the sides of the barrel block too wide, so they don't line up with the locking block. Think that could be causing this problem? |
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Posted: 11/25/2016 5:08:56 PM EST
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Still learning the lingo so I'm not sure if slide release means slide lock or slide stop, but both seem to be working fine. I do think you might be right about it being related to the locking block though, it looks like I might've filed the sides of the barrel block too wide, so they don't line up with the locking block. Think that could be causing this problem? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Having some issues with my frame that seem pretty serious. At first when I would pull the trigger, the striker would release late or sometimes not until after several pulls. Tried shimming the trigger housing which made it not release at all, so I had to lock the slide back and take off the cover plate and pull out the striker before I could remove the slide. Now the slide won't come off the frame at all, feels like something is catching and I can't get it more than an inch or so forward of the frame. Any ideas what could be wrong and how to fix it? Sounds like you're locking block. How hard is it to use the slide releases? Still learning the lingo so I'm not sure if slide release means slide lock or slide stop, but both seem to be working fine. I do think you might be right about it being related to the locking block though, it looks like I might've filed the sides of the barrel block too wide, so they don't line up with the locking block. Think that could be causing this problem? Shouldn't matter, I think. I was guessing more along the lines that the slide release was in backwards or upside down. The only removal of material I did was to go from 80-100. I actually left some material in the barrel block area and "racked" it smooth. |
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Posted: 11/25/2016 5:13:02 PM EST
[#47]
shot mine today
had FTE on everyone as expected while the slide rails get worked in, will report back once its got a couple hundo through it also a few times it failed to go fully into battery, im guessing the same issue as above |
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Posted: 11/26/2016 4:24:48 AM EST
[#48]
Ran probably 60 to 80 more rounds through mine - I had no feeding or ejection issues. However a couple of other guys who were shooting it had some stovepipes and failures to feed. Probably limp wristing but I was unable to duplicate the problem using the same ammo (factory).
I was shooting outdoors and when it got cold I was shooting it while wearing gloves. The grip is fine with bare hands but while wearing gloves the pistol was noticeably more difficult to keep a consistent grip on while firing. Probably adding some texturing or stippling will help with this. |
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Posted: 11/26/2016 2:49:49 PM EST
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Shouldn't matter, I think. I was guessing more along the lines that the slide release was in backwards or upside down. The only removal of material I did was to go from 80-100. I actually left some material in the barrel block area and "racked" it smooth. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Having some issues with my frame that seem pretty serious. At first when I would pull the trigger, the striker would release late or sometimes not until after several pulls. Tried shimming the trigger housing which made it not release at all, so I had to lock the slide back and take off the cover plate and pull out the striker before I could remove the slide. Now the slide won't come off the frame at all, feels like something is catching and I can't get it more than an inch or so forward of the frame. Any ideas what could be wrong and how to fix it? Sounds like you're locking block. How hard is it to use the slide releases? Still learning the lingo so I'm not sure if slide release means slide lock or slide stop, but both seem to be working fine. I do think you might be right about it being related to the locking block though, it looks like I might've filed the sides of the barrel block too wide, so they don't line up with the locking block. Think that could be causing this problem? Shouldn't matter, I think. I was guessing more along the lines that the slide release was in backwards or upside down. The only removal of material I did was to go from 80-100. I actually left some material in the barrel block area and "racked" it smooth. Okay I see what you're saying. Just compared the slide release to a pic and it looks right. I think what happened was when I tried to shim the trigger housing it wouldn't release the striker no matter how hard I tried, so I had to disassemble the slide from the rear in order to take it off. When I did that, the firing pin safety dropped down and was hitting the frame just behind the locking block, which deformed it a little bit making some plastic stick out and get in the way even after I'd put the slide back together. Filed that down and it seems to be fine now, so I'm back to just having the trigger issue. 
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Posted: 11/26/2016 11:16:50 PM EST
[#50]
I ran into the same problem with the striker not releasing when the trigger is pulled. Comparing the trigger assembly on the Polymer 80 frame to a Glock frame, on mine it appeared as though the problem was that the trigger bar would not go back far enough to allow for the cruciform to drop out of the way.
I fixed this by removing a bit of the frame material where the trigger bar bows at a right angle in the back. You can see where it is hitting the frame there when you pull the trigger. Removing a little bit of frame material there with a small sanding drum on a Dremmel solved the problem. The trigger bar will now go back far enough to drop the cruciform far enough out of the way and release the striker.
Not my video, but the guy in this video had the same problem and shows the area I'm talking about and it fixed his problem, too. Might be worth a try to see if this clears up your issue as well.  |
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