Best 9mm Suppressor Host? (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 6/12/2026 12:00:00 PM EDT
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For the money, at least, I think it's hard to beat the P09C Nocturne SR. It's been flawless across 4 different suppressors and it's printing 1" groups at 25yds (supported). The trigger leaves something to be desired--I may have to try the CGW spring kit--and it's a little too big for me to want to carry it. But, as a dedicated suppressor host, I don't think you can go wrong. |
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I have a CZ P07 and it's been a great suppressor host. It's always reliable, pleasant to shoot and sounds great. I have always preferred hammer fired guns for suppressed use. With the slide needing to compress both the recoil spring and the hammer spring (as well as some friction drag on the hammer itself), it seems to delay the barrel unlocking and forces more of the gas and debris out through the suppressor rather than out the ejection port. Less gas and junk in your face. Less port pop noise. People like striker guns because of fast slide speeds and the ability to run light slide weight and light recoil springs, but that's a liability when shooting suppressed. 
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Originally Posted By dmk0210: I have a CZ P07 and it's been a great suppressor host. It's always reliable, pleasant to shoot and sounds great. I have always preferred hammer fired guns for suppressed use. With the slide needing to compress both the recoil spring and the hammer spring (as well as some friction drag on the hammer itself), it seems to delay the barrel unlocking and forces more of the gas and debris out through the suppressor rather than out the ejection port. Less gas and junk in your face. Less port pop noise. People like striker guns because of fast slide speeds and the ability to run light slide weight and light recoil springs, but that's a liability when shooting suppressed. https://i.imgur.com/N7zh6WH.jpeg Agreed on hammer fired for suppressed usage. Nice pistol, I think the P09 is more or less a more modern version? |
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Originally Posted By bluedog82: Nice pistol, I think the P09 is more or less a more modern version? Yes, the current model P09C is basically Gen 3 of the P07. Mine is a Gen 2. The Gen 1s had some issues and that led to some folks hating on them since. But that was more than 15 years ago and the Gen2 and up are really nice pistols that are underrated. I always thought it was weird when they called the full size the P09 but the compact was the P07, yet at the same time they sold the full size P10F and compact P10C. I was glad when they finally corrected that marketing faux pas. |
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Originally Posted By dmk0210: Thanks! Yes, the current model P09C is basically Gen 3 of the P07. Mine is a Gen 2. The Gen 1s had some issues and that led to some folks hating on them since. But that was more than 15 years ago and the Gen2 and up are really nice pistols that are underrated. I always thought it was weird when they called the full size the P09 but the compact was the P07, yet at the same time they sold the full size P10F and compact P10C. I was glad when they finally corrected that marketing faux pas. Definitely good that they fixed it, because the P09 has full size variants too. |
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How are M&P9s? My only two 9mms setup for suppressed shooting are my M&P9 and Polymer 80 (G17). I have a P320 M18 I can remove the comp from, but they're notoriously bad suppressor hosts. |
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Originally Posted By 11boomboom: How are M&P9s? My only two 9mms setup for suppressed shooting are my M&P9 and Polymer 80 (G17). I have a P320 M18 I can remove the comp from, but they're notoriously bad suppressor hosts. One thing I do like about the P320, RXM, etc (the new modular guns with easily swappable grip modules), is it makes it very easy to field strip them down to where you can douse everything with CLP, blow all the crap out with compressed air, brush and swab the barrel, pop it all back together and you're done cleaning. For those that don't shoot suppressed, the suppressor back pressure makes your guns absolutely filthy in a relatively few number of rounds fired. |
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Originally Posted By dmk0210: My MP9 2.0 is pretty good with a factory threaded barrel and lightweight can. Not a lot of crap blown back and not too loud for a striker gun. Better than a Glock or P10C. One thing I do like about the P320, RXM, etc (the new modular guns with easily swappable grip modules), is it makes it very easy to field strip them down to where you can douse everything with CLP, blow all the crap out with compressed air, brush and swab the barrel, pop it all back together and you're done cleaning. For those that don't shoot suppressed, the suppressor back pressure makes your guns absolutely filthy in a relatively few number of rounds fired. Originally Posted By dmk0210: Originally Posted By 11boomboom: How are M&P9s? My only two 9mms setup for suppressed shooting are my M&P9 and Polymer 80 (G17). I have a P320 M18 I can remove the comp from, but they're notoriously bad suppressor hosts. One thing I do like about the P320, RXM, etc (the new modular guns with easily swappable grip modules), is it makes it very easy to field strip them down to where you can douse everything with CLP, blow all the crap out with compressed air, brush and swab the barrel, pop it all back together and you're done cleaning. For those that don't shoot suppressed, the suppressor back pressure makes your guns absolutely filthy in a relatively few number of rounds fired. I've thought about getting an RXM, too. Thanks for that. |
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Originally Posted By colklink: Of the pistols I have with threaded barrels, my favorite host is the Dagger, a G19 gen 3 clone of course. It spits less crap back than my G17, and a lot less than my 92FS. I’m surprised to hear that, a lot of people love the M9 for cans. |
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Originally Posted By bluedog82: I'm surprised to hear that, a lot of people love the M9 for cans. EDIT - the previous line is a positive about not capturing blown back crud inside the gun, not a complaint about more crap to the face. |
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Originally Posted By Amish_Bill: I was waiting to see if anyone mentioned the 92 series. I have an old 92f that is the best 9mm host pistol I've encountered so far. It having an open slide to let backpressure escape is a nice bonus to the platform. Originally Posted By Amish_Bill: Originally Posted By bluedog82: I'm surprised to hear that, a lot of people love the M9 for cans. I have an M9-22 that I shoot and it has a lot of blowback, too. I thought it could be the can I'm using (Q El Camino). |
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Originally Posted By bluedog82: I’m surprised to hear that, a lot of people love the M9 for cans. Idk if its my suppressor, Rugged Obsidian 9, or a combo of that pistol and that suppressor? I have used Blazer subsonic, S&B, and Winchester subsonic. The S&B is the quietest, the Blazer and Winchester, I can't tell a difference. |
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Originally Posted By colklink:Idk if its my suppressor, Rugged Obsidian 9, or a combo of that pistol and that suppressor? Originally Posted By colklink:Idk if its my suppressor, Rugged Obsidian 9, or a combo of that pistol and that suppressor? The cans vary in back pressure and vary in weight, from around 4 to 13 oz. The various combinations of these factors along with a particular gun's operational peculiarities, has considerable effect on reliability, sound and the amount of blowback/debris shooting out. A lot of folks may only have one suppressor and maybe just a couple hosts so they don't get to compare these factors. For example my absolute worse combination is my CGS Kraken (AKA Mod9) with a CZ P10C or Glock 19. The high back pressure (and perhaps particular piston and spring characteristics) and high slide speed combine to make a loud, messy and generally unpleasant experience. Yet that suppressor works much better with my CZ P07 as well as other hammer fired handguns, and the P10C works much better with my AAC TiRant 9m HD. Originally Posted By colklink:I have used Blazer subsonic, S&B, and Winchester subsonic. The S&B is the quietest, the Blazer and Winchester, I can't tell a difference. Regarding subsonic 9mm ammo, this testing is quite interesting: https://www.targetbarn.com/broad-side/quietest-9mm-ammo/ |
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Originally Posted By bluedog82:I’m surprised to hear that, a lot of people love the M9 for cans. I have heard some folks say the open top slide of the Beretta 92 allows more blowback junk to escape up and into the shooters face. If you are using a high back pressure can, and/or a cantankerous booster), I can see that being a likely result. So my take on it is due to the non tilting barrel, the Beretta can be a great host with the right ammo and suppressor (especially a very light one). But it can be a terrible host when the pistol, ammo and suppressor don't work well with each other. If using a high back pressure can, trying stronger recoil springs, and even booster springs (if the original is weak) could help. The Beretta should be more tolerant of stronger springs than other hosts (and anything that delays the slide unlocking can help blowback in the face).  |
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Originally Posted By dmk0210: I have good luck with my two Beretta 92s. But I shoot them exclusively without pistons using ultra light Ecco TLX and TBAC Fly 9 suppressors. If it can be done reliably (and it takes a very light suppressor to do it, plus it won't work on very many host guns), I think it makes for a much more enjoyable suppressed experience. That Tisas 1911 above works well with these cans boosterless as well. I have heard some folks say the open top slide of the Beretta 92 allows more blowback junk to escape up and into the shooters face. If you are using a high back pressure can, and/or a cantankerous booster), I can see that being a likely result. So my take on it is due to the non tilting barrel, the Beretta can be a great host with the right ammo and suppressor (especially a very light one). But it can be a terrible host when the pistol, ammo and suppressor don't work well with each other. Trying with stronger recoil springs, and even booster springs (if the original is weak) could help. The Beretta should be more tolerant of stronger springs than other hosts if using a high back pressure can (and anything that delays the slide unlocking can help blowback in the face). https://i.imgur.com/0JHMW2F.jpeg Those are some gorgeous Italians! |
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Originally Posted By bluedog82: Those are some gorgeous Italians! Thanks! I'm really happy with both of them. Beretta 92 are just wonderfully shooting guns. TBH, only the 92FS on top is Italian. The bottom 92Xi is made in TN. But my northwestern neighbors did a very nice job with this example. |
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Originally Posted By dmk0210: I have good luck with my two Beretta 92s. But I shoot them exclusively without pistons using ultra light Ecco TLX and TBAC Fly 9 suppressors. If it can be done reliably (and it takes a very light suppressor to do it, plus it won't work on very many host guns), I think it makes for a much more enjoyable suppressed experience. That Tisas 1911 above works well with these cans boosterless as well. I have heard some folks say the open top slide of the Beretta 92 allows more blowback junk to escape up and into the shooters face. If you are using a high back pressure can, and/or a cantankerous booster), I can see that being a likely result. So my take on it is due to the non tilting barrel, the Beretta can be a great host with the right ammo and suppressor (especially a very light one). But it can be a terrible host when the pistol, ammo and suppressor don't work well with each other. If using a high back pressure can, trying stronger recoil springs, and even booster springs (if the original is weak) could help. The Beretta should be more tolerant of stronger springs than other hosts (and anything that delays the slide unlocking can help blowback in the face). https://i.imgur.com/0JHMW2F.jpeg Mines Ceracoted green  Attached File Thats my Omega 36M, I haven't shot it much on handguns, mostly on rifles. But it seemed to be a little quieter and spit crap back less than the Obsidian. I was going to try the 1/2X28 direct mount for the 36M without the Nielsen device on the Beretta, everyone says it will work. Problem is, when you rack the slide back, the recoil spring guide comes forward a millimeter or so, hitting the direct mount after the slides moved about halfway back. |
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Originally Posted By colklink:Mines Ceracoted green https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/17974/1000033963_jpg-3778798.JPG  I need to get me more green guns.
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Originally Posted By osprey21: I'm partial to my old school combo. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/766/P9S_9mm-3551141-3717642.jpg What suppressor is that? |
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Originally Posted By dmk0210: ... I have heard some folks say the open top slide of the Beretta 92 allows more blowback junk to escape up and into the shooters face. If you are using a high back pressure can, and/or a cantankerous booster), I can see that being a likely result. .. |
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Originally Posted By Amish_Bill:Absolute misunderstanding of my post. The open top slide provides less containment for places that grit and grime can get trapped, keeping the gun cleaner. You make an interesting point about gunk in the gun though. I haven't really paid much attention to that factor, but I'll keep that in mind next time I shoot mine compared to the other guns I'm shooting at the time. |
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Originally Posted By dmk0210: Ah! Sorry, I didn't see your second comment. You make an interesting point about gunk in the gun though. I haven't really paid much attention to that factor, but I'll keep that in mind next time I shoot mine compared to the other guns I'm shooting at the time. I can attest that my Beretta doesn't retain crud and carbon. It deposits it on my face
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I can say after only 400-ish rounds that my M&P 1.0 is a great suppressor host. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By 11boomboom: I can say after only 400-ish rounds that my M&P 1.0 is a great suppressor host. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/523928/Suppressed_M_P9_jpg-3783662.JPG I am going to get a threaded barrel for one of my M&P9 2.0 soon. I think the gen 1 and gen 2 use different barrels? |
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Originally Posted By colklink: I am going to get a threaded barrel for one of my M&P9 2.0 soon. I think the gen 1 and gen 2 use different barrels? Originally Posted By colklink: Originally Posted By 11boomboom: I can say after only 400-ish rounds that my M&P 1.0 is a great suppressor host. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/523928/Suppressed_M_P9_jpg-3783662.JPG I am going to get a threaded barrel for one of my M&P9 2.0 soon. I think the gen 1 and gen 2 use different barrels? Same barrels. The barrel in mine is a new production Silencerco threaded barrel I purchased about 3 months ago. The difference is the rolling changes to the factory barrels where they were changing locking block and barrel hood geometry to improve accuracy, but both can accept 2.0 barrels. |
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Originally Posted By 11boomboom:The barrel in mine is a new production Silencerco threaded barrel I purchased about 3 months ago. My only complaint is I wish they made them for more guns. |
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Originally Posted By dmk0210: I have had really good luck with Silencerco barrels in a few different hosts. Good reliability, good accuracy and the finish is nice. My only complaint is I wish they made them for more guns. Originally Posted By dmk0210: Originally Posted By 11boomboom:The barrel in mine is a new production Silencerco threaded barrel I purchased about 3 months ago. My only complaint is I wish they made them for more guns. Agreed. I have another Silencerco barrel in my P80 that is extremely accurate. I want one for my Berettas, too. |
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Originally Posted By colklink:I am going to get a threaded barrel for one of my M&P9 2.0 soon. I think the gen 1 and gen 2 use different barrels? I've not seen poor accuracy with my M&P 2.0's OEM threaded barrel but some folks say it can be hit or miss (maybe I just got lucky with a good one). Just something to consider and Google search since you are buying a new barrel either way. |
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Originally Posted By dmk0210: I don't know how true it is, but I've read a few comments from folks complaining about accuracy of S&W's barrels and saying aftermarket barrels (especially Apex) improved the accuracy substantially. I've not seen poor accuracy with my OEM threaded barrel but some folks say it can be hit or miss (maybe I just got lucky with a good one). Just something to consider and Google search since you are buying a new barrel either way. Originally Posted By dmk0210: Originally Posted By colklink:I am going to get a threaded barrel for one of my M&P9 2.0 soon. I think the gen 1 and gen 2 use different barrels? I've not seen poor accuracy with my OEM threaded barrel but some folks say it can be hit or miss (maybe I just got lucky with a good one). Just something to consider and Google search since you are buying a new barrel either way. During the early days of the 1.0, there was 3 barrel revisions and they would be denoted by dimples underneath the chamber. Mine came with revision 2, which grouped terribly. Revision 3 improved accuracy slightly, but what really helped was when I swapped if for a Stormlake barrel. My M&P was stolen shortly after, but I got it back last year. Compared to my other pistols, the accuracy was still mediocre, so I purchased a Silencerco since I was also getting my first pistol silencer. Accuracy is really good now. The old hypothesis on the bad accuracy was barrel lockup and the barrel unlocking too early destabilizing the bullets in some pistols. |
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Originally Posted By 11boomboom: During the early days of the 1.0, there was 3 barrel revisions and they would be denoted by dimples underneath the chamber. Mine came with revision 2, which grouped terribly. Revision 3 improved accuracy slightly, but what really helped was when I swapped if for a Stormlake barrel. My M&P was stolen shortly after, but I got it back last year. Compared to my other pistols, the accuracy was still mediocre, so I purchased a Silencerco since I was also getting my first pistol silencer. Accuracy is really good now. The old hypothesis on the bad accuracy was barrel lockup and the barrel unlocking too early destabilizing the bullets in some pistols. makes you wonder how a company like S&W with millions of pistols in existence can get something so wrong for so long. Heck, the SW9VE, SD9VE was a more accurate gun, and simpler too |
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Originally Posted By 11boomboom: During the early days of the 1.0, there was 3 barrel revisions and they would be denoted by dimples underneath the chamber. Mine came with revision 2, which grouped terribly. Revision 3 improved accuracy slightly, but what really helped was when I swapped if for a Stormlake barrel. My M&P was stolen shortly after, but I got it back last year. Compared to my other pistols, the accuracy was still mediocre, so I purchased a Silencerco since I was also getting my first pistol silencer. Accuracy is really good now. The old hypothesis on the bad accuracy was barrel lockup and the barrel unlocking too early destabilizing the bullets in some pistols. Originally Posted By 11boomboom: During the early days of the 1.0, there was 3 barrel revisions and they would be denoted by dimples underneath the chamber. Mine came with revision 2, which grouped terribly. Revision 3 improved accuracy slightly, but what really helped was when I swapped if for a Stormlake barrel. My M&P was stolen shortly after, but I got it back last year. Compared to my other pistols, the accuracy was still mediocre, so I purchased a Silencerco since I was also getting my first pistol silencer. Accuracy is really good now. The old hypothesis on the bad accuracy was barrel lockup and the barrel unlocking too early destabilizing the bullets in some pistols. Originally Posted By 11boomboom:My M&P was stolen shortly after, but I got it back last year. |
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Originally Posted By EncoreGolf:Heck, the SW9VE, SD9VE was a more accurate gun, and simpler too It was originally produced as the Sigma in 1994 and upgraded to the current SD since 2010. That's a long life for a cheap gun. Looping back to the original topic, has anyone here used an SD9 as a suppressor host? I actually own an Apex barrel for mine but haven't tried it yet. I'm thinking of getting it milled for a red dot and making it a dedicated suppressor host. You guys think it's worth it? (I already have an old HS510C so it's just another $100-$150 to get it milled) |
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Originally Posted By dmk0210: Thanks for the clarification on that. Was that just a thing with M&P 1.0 or did it affect 2.0 also? Wow, that's surprising in itself! Originally Posted By dmk0210: Originally Posted By 11boomboom: During the early days of the 1.0, there was 3 barrel revisions and they would be denoted by dimples underneath the chamber. Mine came with revision 2, which grouped terribly. Revision 3 improved accuracy slightly, but what really helped was when I swapped if for a Stormlake barrel. My M&P was stolen shortly after, but I got it back last year. Compared to my other pistols, the accuracy was still mediocre, so I purchased a Silencerco since I was also getting my first pistol silencer. Accuracy is really good now. The old hypothesis on the bad accuracy was barrel lockup and the barrel unlocking too early destabilizing the bullets in some pistols. Originally Posted By 11boomboom:My M&P was stolen shortly after, but I got it back last year. As far as I know, it only affected the 1.0, but there's owners of 2.0s that claim accuracy issues and buy Apex barrels. I don't have a 2.0 or had any issues with them, personally. Stolen almost a decade ago and spent most of the time in evidence. It was returned after the police station did an audit of their evidence locker and found it. |
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Originally Posted By 11boomboom:Stolen almost a decade ago and spent most of the time in evidence. It was returned after the police station did an audit of their evidence locker and found it. |
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Originally Posted By colklink: M&P9 1.0 accuracy was bad enough I steered clear. I have a gen 1 40 and 45. Once the gen 2 came out, the 9mm accuracy was supposed to be a lot better, and that has been the case with all 3 of mine. |
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Originally Posted By dmk0210: Wow. You got lucky on three counts there. One that it was recovered at all, and two that they found it in the audit and three that they made the effort to look you up and returned it to you. Originally Posted By dmk0210: Originally Posted By 11boomboom:Stolen almost a decade ago and spent most of the time in evidence. It was returned after the police station did an audit of their evidence locker and found it. The records showed they recovered it 3 months after it was stolen. Very, very lucky to get it back. It's also 1 of 2 that were recovered from my stolen guns (the criminals broke in and stole 11 guns). |
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Originally Posted By 11boomboom: The records showed they recovered it 3 months after it was stolen. Very, very lucky to get it back. It's also 1 of 2 that were recovered from my stolen guns (the criminals broke in and stole 11 guns). |
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Originally Posted By dmk0210: I wouldn't be surprised if in fact it only affected 1.0 M&Ps and people now are just regurgitating old info. Idk, I had only ever heard it about gen 1, 9mms. My 40 and 45 gen 1 are fine accuracy wise. The only issue I have ever heard of 40 gen 1s, dumping the mag. Never had it happen, but as I understand it, Smith went through a few redesigns of the mag release. I had never heard any complaints about gen 2 9mm accuracy, and my 3 examples are as accurate as my Glocks, VP9s, P320s. |
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| I've noticed with both of my Glocks (19 and 34) that they cycle noticeable slower with my Obsidian in the full length configuration. Both have Faxon threaded barrels and stock springs. Also, neither will go 100% back into battery unless I completely release the trigger. I'm guessing the suppressor weight is pulling too much on the barrel and the angle is preventing it from going into battery/something hanging up on the trigger bar? |
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Originally Posted By Pennsilfaanisch: I've noticed with both of my Glocks (19 and 34) that they cycle noticeable slower with my Obsidian in the full length configuration. Both have Faxon threaded barrels and stock springs. Also, neither will go 100% back into battery unless I completely release the trigger. I'm guessing the suppressor weight is pulling too much on the barrel and the angle is preventing it from going into battery/something hanging up on the trigger bar? Are you cleaning and greasing the booster after every use? |
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Originally Posted By colklink: Are you cleaning and greasing the booster after every use? Originally Posted By colklink: Originally Posted By Pennsilfaanisch: I've noticed with both of my Glocks (19 and 34) that they cycle noticeable slower with my Obsidian in the full length configuration. Both have Faxon threaded barrels and stock springs. Also, neither will go 100% back into battery unless I completely release the trigger. I'm guessing the suppressor weight is pulling too much on the barrel and the angle is preventing it from going into battery/something hanging up on the trigger bar? Are you cleaning and greasing the booster after every use? I haven't shot many rounds through either (Obsidian now has a trilug and lives on my stribog), but I did use white lithium grease in the booster and cleaned it between both range trips. It didn't have any noticeable effect between trips. It's odd, if I fire a round and hold the trigger, the slide will not go completely into battery, but will as soon as I fully release the trigger. Neither pistols have any cycling issues with any ammo without a suppressor on. I shot 115/124/147/150gr loads through both pistols suppressed and had the same slow cycling/battery issue. Basically, I can't shoot either pistol quickly with a can on. I'm thinking possibly a spring weight issue since they're both stock? Both barrels are Faxon "match" barrels - possibly tighter tolerances creating a binding issue with the slide? Dunno, I figure if the barrel is the problem, I'd be seeing it while not suppressed. A heavier recoil spring should increase the slide velocity, correct? That increased velocity should force the gun back into battery. I may try swapping one in and see if it makes a difference. |
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Originally Posted By Pennsilfaanisch:A heavier recoil spring should increase the slide velocity, correct? That increased velocity should force the gun back into battery. I may try swapping one in and see if it makes a difference. Maybe mag dump a couple hundred of 115gr or 124gr through it unsuppressed. Running a bunch rounds through it should make the parts wear in and mate together better. Keep everything clean and well lubed during the break-in phase. A heavier recoil spring will reduce slide velocity during barrel unlock and case ejection. But it will give it more force to chamber a fresh round and lock the gun back into battery. I would try that for a little while, and only when shooting suppressed, but ultimately it's a band-aid, though it may be necessary if the issue with that barrel doesn't correct itself. An OEM Glock barrel would probably fix it permanently. A gen 3 G19 could use a Gen 5 "Marksman" barrel (that's what I use in mine). |