Posted: 2/24/2026 11:07:58 PM EDT
[Last Edit: ttushooter][Edited]
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Recently acquired a used p226. Looked to be in great shape but when giving the initial cleaning I noticed the firing pin block would not move and it seems like it is stuck in the down position. I’m attempting to disassemble the entire slide, and I’ve got the roll pin that holds the extractor, the extractor assembly and what I think is the firing pin retainer roll pin out of the gun, but I can t get it any further. Firing pin won’t budge, and firing pin block won’t budge I’m letting some penetrating oil soak on the FPB,but I’m at a loss for what to do next? Suggestions? Edit: well I was able to free up the FPB so it moves up and down freely but the firing pin won’t budge. I was under the impression that once the retaining roll pin was removed, if I depressed the FPB, the firing pin would want to push out the back of the channel. I guess I’ll just let it sit with penetrating oil more. Update: ultrasonic cleaner worked! Firing pin loosened up and I was able to successfully diassemble |
Sun's up, Guns up!
"The only place where success comes before work is in the dictionary"
-Vince Lombardi
"The only place where success comes before work is in the dictionary"
-Vince Lombardi
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The loading block can be assembled with the slots on the pin 180 degrees off, but the trigger won't work. The trigger pin with slot on the end needs to be inserted with the slot at 9 o clock, when inserting the loading block, take a thin flathead and move it around a bit from 9 o'clock to 7 o clock while sliding the block in. |
America is at that awkward stage, it’s too late to work within the system, but too early to shoot the bastards....Claire Wolfe
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Originally Posted By 50-140: The loading block can be assembled with the slots on the pin 180 degrees off, but the trigger won't work. The trigger pin with slot on the end needs to be inserted with the slot at 9 o clock, when inserting the loading block, take a thin flathead and move it around a bit from 9 o'clock to 7 o clock while sliding the block in. Are you talking about a portion of the frame? The issue I’m describing is related to the firing pin in the slide. All parts of the frame appear to work ok. The firing pin is seized in the channel |
Sun's up, Guns up!
"The only place where success comes before work is in the dictionary"
-Vince Lombardi
"The only place where success comes before work is in the dictionary"
-Vince Lombardi
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Penetrating oil overnight didn't seem to have much effect. My next step i think is just trying to get as much solvent (Hoppe's #9 in the channel) and see if that helps break it loose. If not, my next course of action will be an ultrasonic cleaner, but i'll have to wait til saturday for that as that is the next time i'll have access to one. |
Sun's up, Guns up!
"The only place where success comes before work is in the dictionary"
-Vince Lombardi
"The only place where success comes before work is in the dictionary"
-Vince Lombardi
|
Is this a folded slide p226, or the later stainless steel slide? The folded slide (older) slide has two breech block pins that need to be occasionally changed. You can get the parts kit from Sig or top gun supply for example. If it's the later stainless steel slide, those solid pins are a bitch to remove and sometimes need a hydraulic press to remove. If it's the latter, I suggest you get a mason jar or similar that will fit the slide, fill it with ED's red recipe or at least transmission fluid, with a bit of odorless mineral spirits, kerosene and a spritz of WD40 or PB blaster. Throw the slide in there while you wait for the weekend. Some recipes advise to add acetone but it could attack the epoxy used to hold the tritium lamps in place. https://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm When you get access to the ultrasonic cleaner, fill the bowl with water as usual and then put the jar in, sort of like a double boiler. Run a cycle and watch the trans fluid turn from bright to dark red. I have a hobo freight US cleaner and have done this with bolt carriers with great results. I guess you could also try NON-Chlorinated brake cleaner AKA gun scrubber. Be sure to wear gloves, eye protection and do it outside. |
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Originally Posted By Yankee-Carpet-Bagger: Is this a folded slide p226, or the later stainless steel slide? The folded slide (older) slide has two breech block pins that need to be occasionally changed. You can get the parts kit from Sig or top gun supply for example. If it's the later stainless steel slide, those solid pins are a bitch to remove and sometimes need a hydraulic press to remove. If it's the latter, I suggest you get a mason jar or similar that will fit the slide, fill it with ED's red recipe or at least transmission fluid, with a bit of odorless mineral spirits, kerosene and a spritz of WD40 or PB blaster. Throw the slide in there while you wait for the weekend. Some recipes advise to add acetone but it could attack the epoxy used to hold the tritium lamps in place. https://www.frfrogspad.com/homemade.htm When you get access to the ultrasonic cleaner, fill the bowl with water as usual and then put the jar in, sort of like a double boiler. Run a cycle and watch the trans fluid turn from bright to dark red. I have a hobo freight US cleaner and have done this with bolt carriers with great results. I guess you could also try NON-Chlorinated brake cleaner AKA gun scrubber. Be sure to wear gloves, eye protection and do it outside. its a 2012 year manufacture so i assume Newer i've removed every pin i can see from the slide (minus the firing pin and firing pin block/safety |
Sun's up, Guns up!
"The only place where success comes before work is in the dictionary"
-Vince Lombardi
"The only place where success comes before work is in the dictionary"
-Vince Lombardi
|
Originally Posted By patw: Can you post any picks of the underside of the slide? Attached File Attached File Attached File |
Sun's up, Guns up!
"The only place where success comes before work is in the dictionary"
-Vince Lombardi
"The only place where success comes before work is in the dictionary"
-Vince Lombardi
|
That is very odd. Can you press on the firing pin at all to move it inside it's channel? I wonder if anything is broken or wedged where the firing pin is. Have you tried any heat to loosen it up? Short of that, maybe a trip back to Sig might be needed. |
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Originally Posted By patw: That is very odd. Can you press on the firing pin at all to move it inside it's channel? I wonder if anything is broken or wedged where the firing pin is. Have you tried any heat to loosen it up? Short of that, maybe a trip back to Sig might be needed. It is completely seized. I’ve debated something being broken. I’ll be able to give it a good long session in an ultrasonic cleaner. If that don’t work, it’s headed back to sig |
Sun's up, Guns up!
"The only place where success comes before work is in the dictionary"
-Vince Lombardi
"The only place where success comes before work is in the dictionary"
-Vince Lombardi
|
Originally Posted By patw: Glad to hear it worked. Any idea of the cause? Best i can tell it was just gunked the fuck up. ran it through like a total of 2 hours of cycles in the ultrasonic cleaner, and it finally released the firing pin so it could be moved. when i was able to get it assembled the firing pin and spring looked good with no damage. gave the gun a good cleaning and took it to the range on sunday and put a few mags through it and it ran like a champ. I'm gonna have to alter my grip on this gun as i ride the slide catch like crazy and induced a ton of failure to lock back on empty. |
Sun's up, Guns up!
"The only place where success comes before work is in the dictionary"
-Vince Lombardi
"The only place where success comes before work is in the dictionary"
-Vince Lombardi
|
Originally Posted By ttushooter: I'm gonna have to alter my grip on this gun as i ride the slide catch like crazy and induced a ton of failure to lock back on empty. That's why I gave up on them, The P226 SAO is calling my name though. |
